i_am_joey_jo

Hi there,

I've downloaded and printed out the plans for the DAS Ugly Stick. I'm sure many of you guys have designed and made this sucker for your first model. I was wondering if anyone can give me some tips on designing it properly.

Is all you have to do cut out the paper, trace onto the wood and then cut and piece together?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

First thing is to have a flat work bench. Its hard to build straight if its bowed, warped, or twisted. You need a good metal straight edge. Something like a 60" long by 2" wide metal ruler from the hardware store. Its also a good edge for cutting the mylar coverings. A good looking plane not built straight will not be near as fun as a good straight build. You only have to do that once to see its importance.
Buy some wood and start cutting. You will get several ideas on how to transfer the templates to the the wood. I use the tracing paper method (I just hate to cut up plans). On big pieces I'll sometimes use blue low tack tape to stick it to the plans so it wont shift. Tracing doesnt take as long as you might think. Depending on your access to tools, you can stack a bunch of blanks and cut many ribs at once or (if you have to cut each rib with an x-acto blade) then many templates and cut them individually. The two tools I use the most when makeing many common parts is the scroll saw and 1" verticle belt sander. The most I cut in one pass is about 6 to 8 depending on rib thickness. Cut the blanks to size and stick them together with a spray adhesive. I used to use 3M77 but its expensive, $8.75 or so. Now I use 3M45 at about half the price, $3.45. Dont put a heavy spray on, just enough to stick it together. Remember, you have to separate these later. Once you have your stack, use the spray adhesive to stick the template on it. There are two methods to cutting out the ribs. You can cut right on the line or cut 1/16" to 1/8" away from the line and finish sand the stack on a 1" vertical belt sander or a oscillating verticle drum sander. Depends on how steady your hand is. Dont forget to pull the template paper off the wood. You dont want it there when building. If you have to use the x-acto blade, make many light cuts instead of trying to do it in one heavy cut. Less chance at cutting yourself.
You will also need to learn how to align the plane. Figure out where you want your reference line and base your measurements from there. For the ugly stick, you will build it 0-0-0. Which means 0 deg for wing incedence, 0 deg for stab incedence, 0 deg for engine down thrust. Dont bother with any right thrust right now, the ugly stick doesnt really need it. There is actually more to it than that but there's no need to complicate matters at this time. You can probably do these alignments using a ruler. BUT, I would suggest that it would help a lot have an incedence meter, some bubble levels and pocket levels. On my planes with 0-0-0 alignment I use the stab as my reference. Set the bubble level on it and prop the plane up till its centered. It will be repeatable every time you need to move the fuse. Then the rest of the plane should line up easily.
And remember, no question is too stupid to ask. I built a lot of duds before getting one to fly. You'll get a lot of different ways to do things so just pick what sounds good to you and go for it. And if its going really really wrong, dont get discouraged. If you have to trash a wing and start over, do it. Better to know its built right rather than wondering if it gonna come apart or not fly good.

Edwin

kdc

My method is to trace the part using greaseproof paper ( a kitchen item ) use a large sheet of paper clipped to the plans with a bulldog clip or pins Stick the paper to the wood with a few short pieces of double sided tape. Then cut right through the paper into the wood with a scalpel. This either cuts thro in thin balsa perhaps using several passes of the scalpel or creates a very accurate line on ply which can have pencil run around to accentuate the line for sawing on a scroll saw.

Put centre lines on all formers and line them up on a straight line on the board or fuselage jig.

i_am_joey_jo

I'm looking at the balsa USA site and they have a big selection of balsa wood but the problem is I have no idea which to buy for the DAS Ugly Stick because they don't show the widths of the boards.

Do you have any recommendations?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

What size plane are you shooting for? For a 40 size you would probably use 3/32" wing ribs. Probably 3/16" ply for the firewall, 3/32 or 1/8 for the fuselage and fuselage formers. Look again, might be in little text. If not, send me the file and I'll take a look at it. Make some notes on the file and send it back to you.
Edwin

i_am_joey_jo

I was also looking at making the Advanced Trainer offered on RCM. It says you need a sheet of Balsa 36X54" but Balsa USA doesn't sell a size like that and mostly only strips so what do I do now?[link=http://www.rcmmagazine.com/store/store-plans-catalog-tem.html?item=plans:PL-1327&sid=0001y6JIwOknB5s7f4517F2]RCM[/link]

kdc

36 x 54 is surely the size of the plan!

To work out the amount & size of balsa you need to study the plan and note down the thickness of the main items. Also see if they can be made out of a 3 inch x 36 sheet or need 4 inch sheet or 48 inch lengths. Then calculate the number of sheets needed.
Order some spare and try to select light sheets for the tail parts

i_am_joey_jo

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks a lot. Everybody's a newbie once!

dicknadine

before you order-- make sure that they do forgien shipments. might suggest Lone Star, they have given me super matl and service. dick

kdc

Good job you did not go into your local hobby shop and ask for 36 x 54 inch balsa!

Everybody was a beginner once, and this is a difficult hobby -that is why you will find lots of help if you ask. Best to join a club where you will get advice.

kdc

Which plan did you download?
Having downloaded and examined the Ugly Stik plan from gasmith6879 I have concluded that there is not sufficient detail shown. Only an experienced builder will be able to work out the way to build this model from the internet plans. These plans seem to be just a simplified and redrawn version. I could easily build from this but a novice will need the original plans and instructions or he will need guidance at every stage.
The following items are some of the polnts to watch

Some ribs near the tip need narrower spar slots ( the spar is doubled near the root only )
Root ribs need hole for the aileron servo wire tube (‘rocket tube’ ) cut at the initial stage..( I would expect that original design used only I central aileron servo. The plan is easier but need 5 servos )

Absolutely Crucial the spar joiners are continuous over the wing centre joint. That is upper & lower spar joiners are each one continuous piece of high quality wood (spruce )between the 2 wing halves. The wing will fail at a critical time and destroy the model without proper construction at this point
.
The plywood shearwebs should be fitted between the ribs while the spars are continuous & go through each rib Grain direction of the ply should be vertical

.The wing should be held on with at least 4 strong rubber bands diagonally. Undercarriage the same.
The extent of the essential 1/16 ply fus doubler at the front is not clear. Rear wing dowel reinforcement not obvious -presumably 1/16 ply. F1 triangular reinforcement not clear..


The leading edge is shown as 3/ 8 square but looks smaller ( maybe ¼ ?) on the rib drawing.
Aileron size is not specified and position of hinges not shown. Rudder & elevator hinge positions not shown, Control movements not specified.

Generally the grain direction is not shown and there is no guidance as to what density of balsa to use.- Both these are critical in some places. Type of ply ( liteply or birch ply ) is not stated.
No clear installation for nosegear steering. No material shown for pushrods (Should be birch dowel and proper threaded stiff wire ends )

I am sure all the above points would have been covered in the original instructions.
Frankly only someone who has built several models from plans will know how to use this plan to make a flyable model. For them the above will be obvious and they may well have their own construction preferences or variations.

If you have never built an RC plane before you should get a trainer plan with instructions or a kit.
Sorry to be negative but it will save money in the long run and prevent wrecking your RC gear and engine.

Jigley3

Hi. Joey..

You may want to have a look at this thread ...lots of good advice . Some of it mine...... bert

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_48...tm.htm#4827154