Cutting balsa from plans...
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Cutting balsa from plans...
I'm in the process of building a Bryan Taylor 71" Mosquito from Scratch. I have built many kits and one scratch... Perhaps I'm too particular but I have never been satisfied with the parts I cut out... here is my technique, perhaps someone can give me a better idea...
To transfer the plans to the balsa, I am using wax paper to trace the plans... then I transfer the wax paper to the balsa for cutting out on the band saw. The pieces are alway "a little off" after they are cut and sanded. Perhaps there is a better way? Should the pieces be the size of the outside, the middle or the inside of the lines on the plan? The inaccuracies are magnified on the smaller pieces, but I suppose that's to be expected.
It always appears "the old timers" get the pieces perfect, but perhaps I'm not looking close enough.
Just looking to improve my skills.... thx.
To transfer the plans to the balsa, I am using wax paper to trace the plans... then I transfer the wax paper to the balsa for cutting out on the band saw. The pieces are alway "a little off" after they are cut and sanded. Perhaps there is a better way? Should the pieces be the size of the outside, the middle or the inside of the lines on the plan? The inaccuracies are magnified on the smaller pieces, but I suppose that's to be expected.
It always appears "the old timers" get the pieces perfect, but perhaps I'm not looking close enough.
Just looking to improve my skills.... thx.
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Cutting balsa from plans...
Hello Pilot...
Another approach is to make a 1-to-1 copy of the plans at Kinkos or one of the copy shops. Then you can paste sections of the plan right on to the balsa using something like 3M 77 or better the 3M spray that is like the Post-it note adhesive. Cut the parts out, and peel off the paper of the plan.
Bill
Another approach is to make a 1-to-1 copy of the plans at Kinkos or one of the copy shops. Then you can paste sections of the plan right on to the balsa using something like 3M 77 or better the 3M spray that is like the Post-it note adhesive. Cut the parts out, and peel off the paper of the plan.
Bill
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Cutting balsa from plans...
I do just like Bill, except that I'm too cheap for Kinkos. I just fold the plans and copy portions at a time on the copier at work. You're going to cut it up anyway. The 3M77 adhesive is right on. I always cut wide and sand to the outside of the line. If the fit is tight, I take it down with the sanding block for a perfect fit. Way easier to do than it sounds.
Hag
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Use Kinkos and Iron away....
Did you know instead of spraying glue an easier method is to use an old iron to transfer the drawing onto balsa after you've copy your blueprint onto xerox paper. Appearently heat activates the copy ink, thought I share this tip with you all but use an old iron so your wife don't kill yeah.
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Cutting balsa from plans...
I do tracing paper and stick it to the wook with 3M77 spray adhesive. Just a very light dusting will hold the template down good enough to cut. I always cut 1/16 to 1/8 inch larger then sand down to the line with my 1" verticle bench sander. I have found it doesnt matter where on the line you trace as long as your consistant. Never have any problems with ribs or formers lining up. Takes longer, but I'm in no hurry. My experience with copying (at least on a copier) is that the templates dont always copy exactly 1:1. So I quit doing that.
Edwin
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Templates
I have been using a product called see temp,with great success on my latest project.This is a sheet of plastic which you place over your plans,tack it in place so it wont slip,and trace the part with a no.11 blade in your knife.Its transparent and you dont cut through just score.You then lift it and with a couple of bends back and forth the template will snap out of the sheet.You can easily sand the edges for an exact reproduction if your knife work is off at all.You then trace the part onto the wood and cut it out,using the template for an accuracy check.This stuff is particularly useful for complex fuse formers or one off ribs etc..I still prefer the balsa sandwich method for multiple consant chord ribs,although you could certainly use the teplate for them too.....3 or 4 large sheets is about $20.....which is plenty for several 1/4 scale projects.A couple of other plus factors are that you dont have to cut up your plans,and you have a set of templates in case you ever want to duplicate the model or lend them to another builder.....
See WWW.seetemp.com.
See WWW.seetemp.com.
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Cutting balsa from plans...
Edwin...
You are absolutely right about how some copiers make copies that are slightly different size than the original. However, the ones that do large "blue prints" seem to be pretty accurate.
Besides if you copy the whole plan, then everything is the same size on the copy!
Bill
You are absolutely right about how some copiers make copies that are slightly different size than the original. However, the ones that do large "blue prints" seem to be pretty accurate.
Besides if you copy the whole plan, then everything is the same size on the copy!
Bill
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Cutting balsa from plans...
Kevin has the right idea, I have been using See Temp since I first saw it at Toledo several years ago. After cutting all the templates I store them in envelopes with the project name on them, comes in handy for repairs.
#9
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Scan the plans. Printout segments on light vellum. Dust w/ 3M77 and apply to balsa. Cut out parts. Save 3mb file on "Plans" CD for future use.
That's my method. Plus, you can easily output plans at any size desired at anytime you want.
That's my method. Plus, you can easily output plans at any size desired at anytime you want.
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Scanning plans
I've had good luck with just taking the plans and scanning them into my computer using the typical HP flat bed scanner. It can take a while but if I do a little each night I can normally have several sheets of plans scanned in within a week. I don't scan the whole sheet, just the parts I need. I then print them off and cut the part out of the sheet of paper. I then transfer this to the balsa and cut my part out. Doesn't cost anything but time.
#11
Cutting balsa from plans...
PJ;
As you stated your having trouble having linear cut ribs. This will always be a problem unless you setup a template or the Rib. A quick and easy method I use is Formica very cheap and some cabinet makers will let you have their scraps. I use Parchment paper/tracing paper then make two tracing's. then 3m spray and attach it to a scrap piece of Formica. Sanding it all the way until i get to 600 grit for an ultra smooth surface. With two ribs from the Formica sandwich all the balsa between the two formica ribs. Using a Table mounted circular sander you can get whatever amout of ribs you want Identical. This also works for Double taper setup's if you set a jig at the right angle. What I also enjoy about this method is I can re-use the rib templates for foam cutting a wing as well.
As you stated your having trouble having linear cut ribs. This will always be a problem unless you setup a template or the Rib. A quick and easy method I use is Formica very cheap and some cabinet makers will let you have their scraps. I use Parchment paper/tracing paper then make two tracing's. then 3m spray and attach it to a scrap piece of Formica. Sanding it all the way until i get to 600 grit for an ultra smooth surface. With two ribs from the Formica sandwich all the balsa between the two formica ribs. Using a Table mounted circular sander you can get whatever amout of ribs you want Identical. This also works for Double taper setup's if you set a jig at the right angle. What I also enjoy about this method is I can re-use the rib templates for foam cutting a wing as well.
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RE: Cutting balsa from plans...
I have a combination of the above. I use spray glue to glue the paper copy of the template to the uncut wood. Then I use the spray glue to glue more sheets of wood to the first. If I want 2 parts I use 3 layers of wood. I cut the part out on a jig saw and keep the paper covered part as a template for next time. Plans are uncut and I have a template ready for repair or the next plane. I cut large and sand to exact size before I peel all the layers apart.
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RE: Cutting balsa from plans...
For electronic plans, I just print them at Staples on large format (36 inch wide) continuous paper, and then cut them out of the paper. Brush the back with white glue (elmers or tacky glue) and let the glue dry. Spritz with a little water, wait a few seconds, then iron the glued paper onto the wood with your covering iron. Cut the parts out, and the paper will easily peel off afterward.
Brad
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RE: Cutting balsa from plans...
I just cut the plans out and glue them with a reposistionalbe spray adhesive (either Krylon or 3m 77 which means it will stick but come right off). Cut them with a band saw and get close. Use a big sander wheel to get them right on and use a scroll saw to cut out the inside. If you need 2 ribs or however many just stack the wood and glue it with the same glue. When done the paper pulls right off and the wood separets and you can save it in case you need to make more.
I personally have a 48" scanner and plotter and it's almost impossible to get it to come out exactly. Each part or rib will look "close" but if you have a big set of plans and plot out the whole sheet you will see how far off it is. You can play around with it to get it close..I tried it with my Ziroli plans and it was almost always off 1% which doesn't sound like much but at 100" that would make the plane 1" +- in wingpsan....
Small planes it might not be so noticable.
I personally have a 48" scanner and plotter and it's almost impossible to get it to come out exactly. Each part or rib will look "close" but if you have a big set of plans and plot out the whole sheet you will see how far off it is. You can play around with it to get it close..I tried it with my Ziroli plans and it was almost always off 1% which doesn't sound like much but at 100" that would make the plane 1" +- in wingpsan....
Small planes it might not be so noticable.
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RE: Cutting balsa from plans...
what are you useing to transfer the part outline to the balsa ? a sharp pencil and good carbon paper produces a sharp line on the balsa. cutting on that line is the difficulty, always make sure that you have a little extra outside of the line for final sanding to shape. practice- practice. dick
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RE: Cutting balsa from plans...
Has anyone ever used the work light under glass method?....place a work light under a glass top table ( with the light pointed up at the glass, of course) lay the plan on the glass, lay on the plan, the paper you are going to trace on...the light shines through the plan and the tracing medium allowing you to see the outline of the part pertectly. Be careful with the light though, some get pretty hot.
Use french curves or shipmans curves to help make your curved lines more crisp.
Use french curves or shipmans curves to help make your curved lines more crisp.
#18
RE: Cutting balsa from plans...
after using 3m77 to afix my templates to my wood, i wipe rubbing alcohol to help release it after cutting. it makes peeling the template off much easier.