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Old 01-05-2007, 12:40 AM
  #1
stupidaso
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Taking on my first scratch build project. What is a good way to transfer the shapes on the plans to the wood stock for cutting?
Make copies and somehow temporarily attach to wood for cutting?
Trace and transfer the shapes somehow?

I just want to know the technique that is going to yield the most precise results.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 01-05-2007, 01:24 AM
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Campgems
 
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Default RE: Stupid question

Not a stupid question at all. I've found a use for my old carbon paper. I put it face down on the wood and lay the plan over it and use a ball point that has run out of ink and trace the part. This has problems though in that the wood and plan can shift resulting in a bad outline, it is dificult to get the position and alignment you want, and you get some smudging from the carbon paper. This is and OK way to work, but not the best.

I bought out a guy who was retiring after many years in the hobby and there were some plans that he had worked with and he had two different ways he handled the problem. He usually just cut up the orginal plans but I would make a copy if possible. Some blue print shops refuse to copy plans for fear of copywrite violations. Anyway, he glued the plan outine to the wood and cut and sanded to size. I think he use paste that would wash off with water as I never saw any plans left on the wood in his models, but there were some loose parts that still had the plan glued to them. One other appproach he used was to cut the part out of the plan and the use the plan as a template. If I were to do this, I would make coppies of the parts on card stock and use that. This method though has the drawback of not being able to align holes in the part as all you have is the outline.

For exact parts though, draw the part in a cad program and then CNC rout it out. I've really been thinking about this last approach. It makes for near laser quality parts that fit if you do it right. The problems though are cost, and you end up taking time from building to make the machine and do the drawings. The up side is that it is very easy to cut out replacement parts after a crash, or sets if you want more than one model.

All in all, I like the plan glued to the wood as the best for one off work.

Don

PS Sorry for spelling, the spell checker seems to have taken a vacation.
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Old 01-05-2007, 05:24 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

I make copies of the plans, cut the parts out, and use a LIGHT spritz of 3M77 contact cement on one side only to attach the pattern to the wood.

Dr.1
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Old 01-05-2007, 06:18 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

I use the same procedure that dr1 does. I then just use a little heat from my heat gun to loosen up the 3m spray glue. Plan peals right off part.
I then use a little laquer thinner to wash off any glue residue.

Jerald are you going to the meeting on sat?
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:00 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

Another method is to make Xerox copies of the parts. You can then take the Xerox copy and transfer it to the wood by heating and pressing with an iron. Or you can transfer the ink with a solvent such as acetone or laquer thinner.
Chuck
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:32 AM
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Hi Brent.

Yea, I'll be there, fur sur. Looks like good flying weather for the big Fokker.

Dr.1
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:46 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

I do the cut and glue thing 90% of the time too. I also have whats called a "Pounce Wheel" basically it is a handle with a little spiked wheel that you roll around over the plan and it punches tiny pin holes thru the paper into the wood. I do this when I don't want to cut the plan or don't have an extra copy.

When doing wing ribs stack them all togeather with T-pins and sand everything including spar slots at one time. If the wing is tapered this gives the right angle across the top and makes it nice and smooth when you skin them.

It was a good question.
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: vicman
It was a good question.
Yes it was! And has been asked often and is easily searched for .
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Old 01-05-2007, 11:32 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

Thanks to everyone for the help! I feel I can get started now. I think I will try to have a copy made as a back-up, and then use the "cut out and temporarily paste" technique.

Thanks again!
Stu
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Old 01-05-2007, 12:07 PM
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Default RE: Stupid question

I still use the old fashion way of doing the plan tranport to balsa. insert a piece of carbon paper, carbon side down, between the backside of the plan and the balsa or cardboard. you end up with the outline of the part on the balsa/cardboard. my parts are all cut out ready for sanding long before you can turn the computor on. if I was in production, I would definitly be useing the computor method. dick
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Old 01-07-2007, 03:37 PM
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Default RE: Stupid question

There is no such thing as a stupid question!!!!!!!!

We all had to start out at one time or another. The way I do it, is to scan the particular piece I want, then print it out. Cut the piece out and glue it to the wood with a scrapbooking glue stick. I then cut it to about 1/16 larger then sand to final shape. Just be carefull around notches for stick wood, it's easy to make them to large, I like to err on the side of to small.


Keep the Faith: Johnny
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Old 01-07-2007, 07:07 PM
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Default RE: Stupid question

My way is to trace the parts using tracing paper ( greaseproof food paper ) pinned over the plan using a pencil and a ruler for all straight lines. Then I stick the paper to wood using small pieces of double sided tape. Then I cut right through the paper into the wood with a scalpel, again using a ruler on straight edges. On balsa or light ply up to 1/8 the cut can be made with several passes of a scalpel or a Stanley knife for ply or thicker balsa . The markings can be enhanced by running a very sharp pencil along the grooves for cutting with a fretsaw.
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Old 01-09-2007, 05:23 PM
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Default RE: Stupid question

Well, now that you have the "transfer" part down, how do you cut them out? Best way is to cut just a bit oversize, and then sand down to the partline. This is MUCH more precise than trying to wield a knife or saw balde to the part line. Try to find sanding sticks or files the right size for notches too.

Personally, I like to use a scroll saw to rough cut the parts, and then use a table mounted belt sander / grinder to finish. Goes very fast and yields ACCURATE parts.
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Old 01-10-2007, 08:14 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

Bandsaw & sand to the line
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Old 01-10-2007, 08:23 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

Use your computer to print out the parts on iron on transfer paper. Then iron it on the wood and get out the old trusty scroll saw and some sand paper.

Bob

PS Dont forget to print the plans mirrored so that when ironed on they are not reversed.
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Old 01-11-2007, 10:48 PM
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Default RE: Stupid question

I just tried a method that worked very well for me. First, I covered the wood with masking tape. Next, I stuck the paper templates onto the masking tape with 3M77. Then I cut and sanded to shape. Once the parts were finished, I just peeled away the masking tape and was left with nice clean balsa.

Jeff
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:57 AM
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Default RE: Stupid question

Use 3M35, it's not so hard to remove as the 3M77. I also go and get full size copies done and use those to cut up. Good Luck. I've been building for years and have more fun scratch'n then fly'n.

I also have the advantage that I'm a draftsman and use autocad to redraw most of the plan and redesign some parts here and there.

Sean
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