How do you create the formers from a 3 view?
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How do you create the formers from a 3 view?
How do you create the formers from a 3 view? I can understand using the top view to measure the width and the side view for the height but what is the trick for creating the curves of the fuse? Also is it a rule that the formers need to be about 3 inches apart? I am designing a 1/5.5 scale Curtis XP-55. This would add more weight which I am not sure is necessary. I was thinking 6 inches might work. Since this uses a tractor prop the air intakes are behind the canopy are mostly obscured in the 3 views front view.
Below is from an article I read about this which makes sense but the pictures he references are not included.
I am using a free version of turbo cad that does not have the 3D feature.
Thanks,
Corey
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m..._n8780076/pg_2
The next step is to create the fuselage sections for each of your former locations. To do this, copy the station lines from the top and side views together to make a framework for each of the fuse sections. Next, draw the formers using the sections on your 3-view as a reference. Here again, the circle and ellipse templates can be handy for gauging the proper curvature. Once you've finished with this, you can copy each of the fuse sections together into a single "stack," which will give you the front view.
Model Airplane News,1997
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RE: How do you create the formers from a 3 view?
Well, the bottom line is you don't. At least you don't if you're going to enter the model into a scale competition. However you can more or less guess in many cases. But they ARE just guesses.
Using pictures with shadow lines is a good indicator to narrow down the guessing and really good larger fine lined 3 views helps as well. In the end it isn't a bad idea to guess at a few stations based on shadow line info and the one fattest front view. Do a few key stations and then slab up some balsa "bulkheads" that are rectangular with heights and widths as per the side and top views and with blocks of styrofoam between and your more or less accurate curved main stations in place. Then carve it all down until it blends pretty much nicely with the retangular formers having been sanded down until you barely touch the max height and width points. Some felt pen marks on these points and around the entire main bulkheads will help you see when you're starting to sand too much in that place.
Take it all apart and you have your formers... you DID only tack glue it all, right? 3 inch stations is a fine number to work with if you're using a lighter planking. If you go a little thicker you can get away with up to 4 inches. Beware the "starved dog" look though if you use the wrong finishing materials along with too thin a planking and it shrinks and compresses the wood.
For stand back and squint scale this will do you fine. But if you were working on a meuseum or world competition model you'd be using better resource material.
Using pictures with shadow lines is a good indicator to narrow down the guessing and really good larger fine lined 3 views helps as well. In the end it isn't a bad idea to guess at a few stations based on shadow line info and the one fattest front view. Do a few key stations and then slab up some balsa "bulkheads" that are rectangular with heights and widths as per the side and top views and with blocks of styrofoam between and your more or less accurate curved main stations in place. Then carve it all down until it blends pretty much nicely with the retangular formers having been sanded down until you barely touch the max height and width points. Some felt pen marks on these points and around the entire main bulkheads will help you see when you're starting to sand too much in that place.
Take it all apart and you have your formers... you DID only tack glue it all, right? 3 inch stations is a fine number to work with if you're using a lighter planking. If you go a little thicker you can get away with up to 4 inches. Beware the "starved dog" look though if you use the wrong finishing materials along with too thin a planking and it shrinks and compresses the wood.
For stand back and squint scale this will do you fine. But if you were working on a meuseum or world competition model you'd be using better resource material.
#3
RE: How do you create the formers from a 3 view?
use this link and you will find dxf plans of a 61"span ascender
http://plans.rcmodell.hu/planscal.html
http://plans.rcmodell.hu/planscal.html
#4
RE: How do you create the formers from a 3 view?
While I haven't gone through the process myself, this is my understanding of it. What you really want to do is find drawings that include sections or stations. Sections and stations are cross sections and show the contour at several points along the fuselage. Then you can use a process called lofting and referencing any photos you have to create all the formers you need between the sections. Wing sections are harder to come by on drawings, but you can often find the type of airfoil used and use software or charts to create wing ribs.
I have, and recommend the Black Arts video series Scratch This from Dave Platt. It covers manual methods of lofting as well as other topics on scratch building.
Scott
I have, and recommend the Black Arts video series Scratch This from Dave Platt. It covers manual methods of lofting as well as other topics on scratch building.
Scott
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RE: How do you create the formers from a 3 view?
Thank you for your input. It is quite helpful and has given me something to go on to move forward. I have also read on the Internet that others have recommended "Scratch This" from Dave Platt. Sounds like a worthy investment.
I am always open to everyones methods on how they accomplish this so I hope the readers of this thread will post their own successfully method they use as well. Seems like a worthy topic.
- Corey
I am always open to everyones methods on how they accomplish this so I hope the readers of this thread will post their own successfully method they use as well. Seems like a worthy topic.
- Corey