qinamil

Hello everyone,

I have been a long time reader of the great things you all do here. I have learned alot of tricks, thanks to all of you for sharing so selfishlessly.

I have been a R/C modeler off and on since 1989. I have always enjoyed the building aspect more than the flying. I have done many, many, many kits over the years but I have never delved into the "scratch" part. I was wondering what to build next when I decided it was time to dive in and do something from scratch. Lots of ideas and "dream" planes ran through my head. Luckily, I came to my senses and decided to do something fairly simple and at the same time utilize some spare "stuff" I had laying around the shop.

One of my all time favorite airplanes to actually fly is known as the Perfection. It was designed by a great guy in the Heart of Texas Model Air Club (Waco, TX) named Jim Smith. It is basically a superior version of the standard Ugly Stick and uses a .40 - .60 size gas engine. So, what I have in mind is to create a miniature version of the Perfection (roughly half the size) and convert it over to electric to install a Park 450 motor I have laying around.

I have drawn everything out using Microsoft Publisher and will attach the file. I have also attached a picture of what the full size perfection looks like.

I hope to document my build process here and eagerly look forward to comments, criticism and ideas.

Edit: Updated the Plans and added the Balsa Cut Sheet, saved as PDF to keep accurate size.

longdan

That looks like a nice plane, and fast too. I've always been a fan of the ugly stick. Maybe this is the 'pretty stick'?

What span is your plane going to be?

foamcut

My Feedback: (40)

The perfection is an excellent airplane. I had one for about a year and kick myself for selling it. This design really convinced me of the value of tip sails / plates on the wingtips..

The longer fuse made it much more gracefule in the air than a standard stick.



I'm going the other way on my scratch build and am scaling up to a 25cc gas / glow engine.

The wing will be built up from laminated foam ribs with a standard D-tube construction.

I'll cut the fuse out of foam (to establish dimensional criteria) and laminate balsa to the outside (for structural rigidity). The I'll cut out the needed areas for components in the fuse.

SKYHI1

foamcut,

I love the "Ugly Stick", I have two of them. I like the looks of the Perfection. Could you explain what advantages there are in a longer fuse? I know you mentioned that it is more graceful. Do you mean it is more responsive in slow flight? I appreciate your insight.
Also where did you get the plans?

Thank you
Frank

qinamil

The wing span will be 36 inches. I did some calculating when I was scaling it down and tried to keep wood lengths in mind when I got started. The plan that is attached should be able to be printed to be able to build off of it. My next step will be to put together the parts lists and draw up some cut sheets. I hope to have that done by the end of the week.

longdan

Hmmm. 36 inches? Could be a good candidate for a 1/2A engine, or a .10-15. I take it you will be using mini/micro radio gear. What sort of weight will you be aiming for?

qinamil

To be honest, I had not even considered what the weight will be. I need to look at what the weight limitations are for my Park 450 and will do some calculations once I get further into the build. I plan on using micro servos, 35 Amp ESC, and a 11.1 V battery.

Excellent point though, I really need to make sure I create a plane that will perform as good as the full size.

Rich

blvdbuzzard

If you want a park sized plane, there is a free down load of the Das Not Ugly. It is a 1/2A sized ugly stick. I have built one with (5) servos and tri gear. I have a short thread [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7958439/tm.htm]HERE[/link]

You can down load the [link=http://http://www.ulmer-rc.com/dotnetnuke/Default.aspx?tabid=102]plans[/link]

It might be a little bit easier to modify the plans to match what you are doing then to draw new ones. It will also give you a good idea about material sizes.

If you do draw up a set I would like to see them.


Dru.

qinamil

The Das Not Ugly looks like it is very close to the design here. I had already created the plans and have them attached in the first post. Is that your website where the DNU plans are located? I saw several other designs there that intrigued me. Dru, let me know what you think of the plans. If anything needs to be added just let me know.

Rich

blvdbuzzard

No that is not my site. I just know about it.

I like plans with gear. I fly off of a dirt runway so belly landing planes is not an option. the link to the thread about my 1/2A Ugly stick, I used (2) 3.7 gram aileron servos, (2) 7.8 gram servos for rudder/nose wheel and elevator and a 3.7 gram for throttle. I like dual servos for ailerons so I can get flaperons with them.


1/8 in side seem a little over kill. I used 1/16" and some 1/16" doublers. The 1/4" firewall, is that lite ply? I used 3/32 for the tail feathers. The formers I made were cross grained balsa. I used 1/32 balsa vertical grain for the sheer webs.

I just tried to see what stress would be on the parts and used the lightest wood I could.

A 35 amp ESC is more then you need. I am running a 11.1v 1350 with a JGF 40, turning a 7X4 folding prop with a 25amp esc. If you keep the weight down you might be able to use something like a Turnigy 2024 with an 18 amp ESC and a 11.1v lipo. I am not the person to go to for E powered stuff, I try it and see if I can keep the smoke for getting out.


I do like the stik design. You can do so much with it and still have a good flying plane.



Dru.

qinamil

Dru,

Excellent points. I may have to rethink some of the balsa sizes I speced out. I basically took the sizes used in the full sized Perfection and halved the material sizes.


I do plan on having landing gear for this plane. I have the lightweight gear that came off of a funtana that I intend to use. I will also use a dual servo set up for the ailerons. I'll try and get the servos and control horns drawn on the plans. Right now I am contemplating whether to move the tail feather servos to the rear of the airplane some to offset the weight in the nose.

I really appreciate the feedback. This is my first attempt at "scratching", and I can use all the help I can get.


Rich

qinamil

It has been a while since I have had the time to work on this. My LHS likes to put me to work finishing and covering planes on planes they acquire. My recent task is a PJ-295 that was about 85% completed.

Back to the Almost Perfection though. I have taken a close look at the Ugly Stick drawings and incorporated the wing hold down block similar to what they do. I also created a second cut sheet that is for the plywood needed for the plane. I also took the time to label most of the parts and matched them with the cut out sheet to help cut down on confusion of where things should go. As always, suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I have been working on getting everything cut out so I can begin production soon. I'll upload pictures once I have all the pieces cut out.

Rich

blvdbuzzard

Here are a couple pics from my build. Might give you some ideas. I would say if you are going to use 1/8 inch for the fuse, you need to add some lighting holes. Save some weight. I mounted the servos in a different way. I made covers that hold the servo and then the servos are on their sides so only the servo arm is exposed.


Dru.

qinamil

Thanks Dru,

Again a great idea. Thanks for the pics, they help. I'll definitely change the wing servos to mount that way.

Some progress today, finally. I cut out all the parts and made sure everything was accounted for.

Rich

qinamil

Made progress last weekend and then more this weekend. I'll try and post the instructions of the order of my build in case anyone wants to build as well.

Wing Build:
1. Place one of the spars on the plans and pin it in place.
2. Place ribs on the spar as indicated on the plan. (I started from the middle and worked my way outward.)
a. Use a builder's triangle to ensure each rib is perpendicular to the building surface.
b. Glue in place.
3. Place a spar in each of the two top slots.
a. Glue in place.
4. Remove the pins and flip the wing over to place the final spar.
b. Glue in place.
5. Take your 1/4 X 1/4 balsa and glue it in place on the leading edge.
6. Glue the trailing edge in place on both top and bottom.
7. Cut the shear webs to be snug and glue them to the leading edge of the rear spars.

longdan

Nice work.
It's interesting that for a symmetrical foil, it doesn't use tabs at the trailing edge to gold the ribs level while glueing the spars in. I had always thought this a necesity on thick syemmtrical foils, but obviously not.

longdan

double post [&:]

qinamil

I had a request to post the cut sheet as a dxf file to be used for laser cutting. After playing with a few packages, I believe I came up with a viable method.

My only real method to test is to bring the file up in a viewer to make sure everything was converted over. If anyone is interested in the dxf, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it over.

Rich

qinamil

I put the wing aside for a moment and started on the fuselage. Steps done so far:

Fuselage Build:
1. Mark a center-line on the three bottom pieces, and your three fuselage formers.
2. Place them on the plans and glue them in place ensuring the center-lines are straight. (I even used a ruler to double check.)
3. Place a T-pin on the center-line just behind where the plywood meets the third piece. Place your horizontal stabilizer on the plans.
a. Use a ruler to ensure the outside leading edges of the horizontal stabilizer measure the same distance to the T-pin.
b. Glue in place when the lengths are the same.
4. Place the firewall in position and use a triangle to ensure it is is perpendicular to the bottom and on the center line.
a. Use your fuselage sides to double check that everything is in place and fits correctly.
b. Glue in place, after double checking using your triangle.
5. Repeat step 4 with the second former.
a. Use the fuselage sides to ensure that it is placed correctly, checking that it fits just forward of the wing saddle.
b. Glue in place after double checking using your triangle.
6. Repeat step 4 with the third former.
a. This time use the fuselage sides by clamping them to former two temporarily.
b. Set the wing on top of the saddle and place the third former so it is just behind the trailing edge of the wing.
(This will ensure you have a good location for your rear wing hold downs)
c. Remove the fuselage sides and glue the former in place. Don't forget to double check using your triangle.
7. Place the fuselage sides and glue them starting at the firewall and working your way back.
a. It helps to tack glue them to the formers first.
b. The wood will want to bow once you get past the third former. I pinched the sides into place with the bottom and tack glued it about every 3 inches.
c. Once everything is tacked down, you can go back and glue everything properly.
8. Use some triangle stock and secure the firewall to the fuselage sides.
9. Position the wing hold down block and glue in place.

qinamil

No pictures tonight but I'll post what I have accomplished.

Fuselage:
10. If you plan to put the rudder and elevator servos in the rear of the plane as I am, you should position your servos and do your cut outs now.
a. Cut some small basswood stock to place on each side of the servo to help secure the screws in place later.
11. Position the top rear fuselage piece in position and glue it down.
12. Position the vertical stabilizer (both pieces).
a. Ensure you check that the trailing edge is flush and straight with the rear fuselage.
b. Ensure you check that the stabilizer is perpendicular with the horizontal stabilizer by using your triangle.
c. Glue in place.
13. Sand all sides to be even so that there is no overlap.

Assembly:
1. Place the wing on the fuselage and hold in place. Drill a pilot hole through the Fuselage Former and into the center rib of your wing.
a. Double check everything!
b. Drill your 1/8" hole through like before for your 1/8" dowel.
2. Cut your dowel to length and sand both ends to a rounded point.
3. Glue the dowel in the wing using epoxy.
4. Place the wing back in the saddle.
5. Sand the top wing hold down reinforcement on three sides so that it presents the least amount of air flow disruption.
6. Place the wing hold down reinforcement on the wing so that it buts up against the front of the top rear fuselage and is centered.
a. Glue in place.
7. Drill two pilot holes through the wing hold down reinforcement and into the wing hold down below.
8. Remove the wing and install the supports needed for the aileron servos.

That is where I am. I haven't decided if I am going to use blind nuts for the wing hold down. I have to visit the LHS to see what I can scrounge up. I modified the way the wing servos go in to closely mirror the way Dru did them.

I'll try and post some pictures as soon as I get some more batteries for my wife's camera.

Rich

qinamil

Here are the pictures from last post. Sorry for the delay. I decided to go with 8-32 bolts and blind nuts for my wing hold down.

Rich

qinamil

I have been quite busy on the build this weekend but the camera batteries were dead through most of it.

To finish up the fuselage build take the front hatch cover and cut it about 1 inch from the end. Glue this piece to the rear of the cover opening, square with where the wing dowel inserts. Use a small piece of 1/16th ply and glue it to the bottom of the remaining hatch piece so that it over hangs by about a half inch. Position the hatch and drill a pilot hole on each of the front two corners for the hold down screws. Insert the screws for the next step.

Sand everything smooth. Round all corners.

After sanding I went ahead and drilled my holes for the motor mount. I also decided that I wanted an extra hatch on the bottom for installing the battery. I created a hatch just behind the hardwood landing block. I put 1/64th plywood on all places where control horns will be positioned.

Then I began covering. I made the mistake of asking my wife how it should be covered. She is a huge Dale Earnhardt Sr. fan. I know, he's dead, but don't tell her that. Anyway, once she got the idea in her head, I was pretty much committed to covering it as a tribute to "The Man" as she calls him. I'm almost done with the covering, but here is a picture of what I have so far.

Rich

blvdbuzzard

Looking good. I have had other issues and not able to work on my (2) planes that are on the board.


Dru.

Czechmate

My Feedback: (6)

I have been thinking of building a perfection for sometime as my first scratch built plane. I was curious to gather some opinions as to how it would fly with a zenoah G20ei. I know several guys who own a perfection and they all love the way they fly. They typically have put a O.S. FS-91 II w/pump or a Saito 100 on the nose. Also, is it possible to purchase just the plans? Thanks!

qinamil

You might check with Todd Blose about the motors and also if they have the perfection plans available. The original perfection is sold by B&P Associates in Waco, TX. Check out their website at http://bpassociates.homestead.com/perfection2.html

Todd's website is http://toddblose.homestead.com/index.html



Rich