yojoelay

You might have seen this, it's a great little technique for complicated covering designs. Love to try it myself someday but usually by the time I get to this point I'm too keen to fly the thing.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6686800/tm.htm]New monocote technique[/link]

Good luck.

Joel

sir crashallot

thanks for that im just watching it now

sir crashallot

here we go some more progress got the firwall in today and former f2.

sir crashallot

and some more

sir crashallot

and again some more

sir crashallot

just checked out the hanger 9 scheme and yeah it does look awesome and i think i might aswell go with it as i have some white covering sat doing nothing,

progress is ver4y slowly coming together im at a point now where i need to seriously think about how and what im making the cabane strut out of, as i have no sheeting on the front of the fus and cant sheet it until the cabane strut is in place and fixed in. could do with finding someone who has the center cabane strut off a crashed 40-50 inch version of the ultimate.

highfly3D

fassst covering....

jetfixr

My Feedback: (13)

Honestly, cabane struts are pretty easy to make out of flat alumninum stock available at any hobby shop, or home improvement center. I have built them for a large scale ultimate like this before. All you need to do is draw out the points they attach at, then connect the dots basically. Let me know if you need better explanation, or some illustrations.

sir crashallot

if you have some illustartions that would be helpfull as the plan im working off is utter rubbish, iv never had to deal with these before so the cabane strut is all new to me thanks for your offer of help too

jetfixr

My Feedback: (13)

Sure, I don't know how your's connect to the fuselage, and the wing, but I will draw a pic of how I designed mine, then we will work with it to make it like yours. Give me 30 minutes.

sir crashallot

ok thanks il be waiting

jetfixr

My Feedback: (13)

Ok it took a little longer than 30 minutes, but here you are. Very simple design, but effective. Again, this is just for illustration as I don't have any of your actual measurements, or design. Also, have you already build your interplane struts and set wing incidence? You can set the wing incedence with either your interplane or cabane struts, then just match them depending on what you built first. If I can find some batteries for my camera, I will take some pics of the actual ones I built. All the measurements you really need is the width at the bottom, and the height of the wing from the fuselage mounts. Hope this helps. Just ask if you have more questions. I love ultimate biplanes, and enjoy working with them. You won't be disappointed with the way it flies.

sir crashallot

well you may have answered one big question for me, the center ribs on the wing do they have extended tabs coming out of the bottom of the wing joining to bolt to the cabane strut.

secondly the plan im building from is really badly designed, however im altering as i go allong to make it actualy look like an ultimate, theres no thicknesses of metals for the cabane strut either, i think with this ultimate its going to be a hit and miss design as theres taht much been altered it will be a test model and im enjoying it and when its doen and if it does have the proper flying qualitys then i will considering doing another build from the adjustments iv made but really go to town and make built up elevators and fin and rudder and so forth. so far the fuselage weighs just half a pound and thats with stab and fin and ruder fitted. so im doing somthing right and most of the weight is in the covering.

so if you could tell me idealy the thickness of the alu strip and how wide you would recomend it i will see if i can order some from a firm i saw on e.b.a.y. earlier everyone says that these planes fly superb iv always loved there shape and design but never had the chance to drop on one for a good price hencxe the build from a plan.

But if everyones honnest who sticks 100% to the plan and never changes slight little things thanks for all your help and the drawings they will be a great help jetfixr and be sure to post a pic of your ultimate here[8D]

jetfixr

My Feedback: (13)

I found my batteries. Here are a couple of pics of mine. Now, without the wing installed they will be a bit flimsy because the left and right sides are not connected to eachother, so they look misaligned in the picture. However with the wing installed they line up great and are very strong. I usually just put the bolts through the holes like in the picture, and carry the fuselage by the front one strut.

jetfixr

My Feedback: (13)

Yes, there are tabs on the bottom of the center rib to mount the wing. Also, the center rib is made of plywood. The material for the struts on mine is approx. 11.5mm wide and 1.5-2mm thick. You can get it at any Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. Mine is a .90-1.20 size model too, so you could probably get away with using a little smaller even. Like I said, it is just aluminum stock. Here is a picture of the tabs on the wing, and a couple of the entire model. I have probably a couple of hundred flights on it without any problems, and it is one of the best flying airplane I have ever had.

sir crashallot

she looks very nice. however my fuselage dosnt seem as tall but has allot of length to it. thanks for the detailed drawing again it will help me greatly, the plan dosnt show any method of how the top wing attaches and to be honnest i bet it hasnt been built or the designer would have noted about they way the wing is held on. will keep you posted on my progress i no exactly what i need now thanks again

jetfixr

My Feedback: (13)

Not a problem. Keep the updates and pictures coming!

sir crashallot

will do hopefully by the end of next week il have the cabane strut built and i can get the front finished then get the fuselage sanded and coverd. then il get to work on the wings

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Alright, so here's the pic's I was going to post way earlier, I know this has nothing to do with the thread but here you go, I still need to make a plug for your ultimate, but I need the dimentions of the fuse to make it close to what you need. I think I just made up your mind on the TX/RX combo too.

sir crashallot

that jung looks a stud. shes got that shape that makes you just want to take her out and give her a good flying lol that was starting to sound slightly dodgey

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

You dirty old man, how dare you talk about my girl like that,....good job! I tried to PM you a pic of what the rds includes but it was too large a file, so here's the one going to brian, NIB. with the RDS system, it's all murder'd out black and it inculdes 2 recievers. You guy's across the pond use 220 volt, not 110volt, right?

sir crashallot

thats right mate 220v infact somwhere i do still have the charger from my old vg6000 infact there 2 knocking about but where i dont no i think they could be in one of my sacks of cables and adapters. reason i had 2 was i bought some old stoick from a model shop when i bought the vg6000 and he said there had been 2 returns with the chargers being faulty so he said instead of binning them did i want them and i said yes, got them home and tested them it was a case of the wires were the wrong way rounf going to the plug for the reciever so i swapped them on both and they where fine so i threwe them in a cuboard. since then cleaned it out but il have a look tomorow

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Well, that would work out perfect, I gave my wall charger to my buddy who got the RD6000, so I don't own a wall charger for my RD8000, I have been using the triton to peak it up from time to time. I could keep the charger and if you find yours, then all will be well. I'm just curious how UK wiring in homes are, there must be 2 hots from each side of the main and a ground wire, if you take a meter, and go from 1 plug input to ground you should get 110volt, but to bolth plug inputs you should get 220volt. Right?

sir crashallot

not quite heres a diagram iv quickly drawn up

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

AHH, yes, it should be the same, let's elabotate, AC voltage has no polatity, so there is ground and hot legs, DC actually has a polarity, so you end up having a + and a -, in the US, we take the 220 volt and take 1 hot or the + leg and ground the other to earth, hence the 110 volt rating, were using 1/2 the circuit to make a lower voltage, disadvantages are higher amperage draw. but we also use 2 live legs of service, 2 hot legs from the main and it equates to 220 volt, the ground is the same as usual, tied to the service panel and from there to a 8' copper rod pounded into the ground/earth. Since there is no polarity in AC the load will consume the energy as it tries to find earth/ground, so the hot leg or +, will travel through the load (motor, charger, heater) and to earth/ground, it won't short out, but the amp draw will rise because it's running on 1/2 the voltage available. I guess you could test it out with a simple light bulb, take 1 lead and plug it into the + or hot terminal of the outlet, take the other lead and put it into the ground, the bulb will be 1/2 as bright and running at 110 volt.