PA BEN

This might sound like a dumb question. I have a set of plains and have never built a plane from scratch. What is the best way to cut your balsa wood/plywood parts out. Or can I send my plains off some where to have parts made?

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

Easiest way is to do some digging and investigate as to iffn' anyone has in the past had a kit created via CNC cutting or laser cutting. That ought to eliminate much of the specialized effort, and if done before ought to also eliminate some of the set-up and shipping costs for you. This is not fast too. for will have to go through a big list of vendors and find out what has and has not already been done.

If not, then has been numerous ways cited here as how to transferr shaped parts on a plan to wood for you to cut out via hand.


Wm.

Mark in Michigan

If you have the money, buying a kit of the wood parts from a kit cutter is the way to go. I did this with a Ziroli Stearman from Aeroplane Works and the kit was a work of art.

Now I don't have so much money so I cut the kit myself. I rough-cut out the template from the plans and using 3M77 spray glue, attach it to the thin plastic that See-Temp sells. Then I use an xacto knife to score the plastic, following the outline exactly. Then flex the plastic and it will snap clean. This way you have templates for all the parts in case they are needed later.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I follow this process, as cutting parts is really pretty easy, and the prices on "precut" kits are getting outrageous. Not only that, but almost any project is going to require some custom pieces, so you might as well develop the skills and buy the tools now. You'll use both over and over as you progress in the hobby.

1. I copy the plans at a print house that has a blueprint machine.

2. Cut out the part patterns with scissors.

3. Use a glue stick to glue the patterns to the wood.

4. Use a combination of hobby knife, small bandsaw, and a disc sander to do the cutting and shaping. I find it almost imperative, especially on small or soft parts, to cut somewhat outside the line with the knife or saw, and then do the final shaping with the disc sander. I also have a cheap scroll saw, but find I use it only when I have to cut the center out of plywood parts, it's great for that.

The bandsaw and disc sander were obtained for around $100 each. I think I got the bandsaw at Home Depot and the sander at Sears. If you're gonna scratch built, you really need them plus a cheap drill press. (Mine's a Sears, also around $100)

dhal22

i had never scratch built (or plans built since i used someone else's plans) until my current project. i went about it pretty much like Mustang Fever described (tools and everything) except i use a lite coat of 3M 77 adhesive spray to attach my patterns to the wood. you can use a cloth and rubbing alcohol after the pattern cutout to remove the paper. it works great. from initial cutouts to where i'm at now is shown below. although the wings aren't shown due to being foam cored.

david

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

David:

That's a pattern bird, isn't it? Which one? It's really sleek looking.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

It is a Blue Angel 60 and one awesome aircraft!

Here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6819340/tm.htm

and here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3973867/tm.htm

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Wow. That thing is so gorgeous. I want one.

Are the plans available anywhere?

PA BEN

So whats the cost of having someone cut your parts from your plains?

Laird SS

One thing I'd add to Mustang Fever's list of tools is to check out your local Home Depot and Lowe's for the disk sander. Delta makes a combination 1" belt sander/8" disk sander with cast iron parts (Model SA180) that I got a couple of years ago for $100. They also had one for the same price, but with aluminum parts instead of cast iron. The cast iron unit (SA180) is the better of the two. You might also get some sanding drums of different diameters to use on the drill press for shaping the inside of fuselage formers. If you can swing it cost wise, I believe Ryobi makes an oscillating spindle sander that's even better for the inside of formers, but it costs more than the sanding drums will cost. The spindle sander has spindles from 1/2" dia to 3" diameter.

Just my $.02 worth.

Lnewqban

Any tip to cut out a rectangular notch on the edge of a rib or former, so the spar or longeron fits perfectly, while doing it by hand?

Regards!

dhal22

Wow. That thing is so gorgeous. I want one.

Are the plans available anywhere?

_____________________________

Bob Hunt


that's exactly what i said when i saw 8178's Blue Angel project underway. and i went and did it. still a long way to go but it is a major thrill to see the ultra sleek shape of the BA take form from raw balsa. both of our build threads have links the the plans, wing cores, etc. i can assure you these building tools are well worth the investment.

david

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

Glue some sandpaper to a piece of the proper size of spar you are using on the structure, and it will quickly sand the close fitting notch in the rib or former. Learned this from a coworker who always scratch built CL planes.

In the third picture, I glued the tip and root ribs in place. Used the spar as a guide to park the location on the other ribs. In this case, the spar ran at an angle to the root rib and was able to sand the spar at the proper angle and location with no gap. You can't do this with laser cut ribs.

I'm working on my first scratch built from plans too. Enjoying it immensely.

Jim

CrateCruncher

My Feedback: (1)

Post deleted.

sir crashallot

i also support this method as it is very affective. alothough i photo copy them to my computer and put them onto a cd so i dont have to keep rolled up plans all over my house. and if i need them again i can print out the sections i need on my computer. it is really easy and cuts the cost down of having plans printed again

you can even draw in the points where you strengthend or alltered while its on your computer as i do often and i just use paint thatsd already on the computer which almost anybody can use with ease

PA BEN

So how does the print transfer to the wood with lacquer thinner? Also, does anyone know the cost to have you parts laser cut?

dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

I use the same method as mustang Fever. Patients is a virtue here, sharp blades and time,

CrateCruncher

My Feedback: (1)

Post deleted.

wattmeter

So would it work by scanning and printing out with a inkjet print?
Bill

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Dalolyn:

Mostly, I just don't need to inhale any more fumes when building. CA glue is bad enough, and the occasional whiff of denatured alcohol or acetone.

What twin is that? Does it fly as good as it looks?

dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

It is a twin version of a Goldberg Sr.falcon. Built it off of a set of plans. It flies just like a Sr.falcon. I also copied several sheets, One to Build on and one to cut out for templates. Still have the Original Goldberg plans. Right now the plane is in classifieds. need funds for other projects. I like to scratch build, and when I build a kit I cant help but to always modify it. Wife and I Have our own carpentry construction business, and I like woodworking so i have all the tools I need. Time is not what I have. These scratch builds might take several years. If I start crashing and running out of flying planes I will set the project aside and build an ARF or Kit. What I like is Balsa is fairly cheap so if i screw up Ill just redesign and or re cut another part. After a couple of scratch builds I have enough balsa to build another.

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

Watt,

Using thinner to transfer patterns to wood you will need a copy that's made with fused toner ("Laserjet").
Inkjet is water based, so maybe it would transfer to damp balsa (??) I'll have to try this.
If you use acetone or lacquer thinner, do it in a REALLY well ventilated area. Lots of fumes, brain cells, die.

I make 2 copies of an original plan, one to build on, one to cut up and then
glue to old cereal boxes with gluestick for the templates. The templates then go in a big
labeled ziplock bag for future reference, with the intact original plan.

I cut thin balsa with a #2 X-Acto, thin ply with sharp scissors. Thicker balsa, for
straight cuts cross-grain I use razor saws (or a utility knife) and for thicker ply and
thick balsa curve cuts I use my old Motoshop. A good metal straight edge
is a must, and these are handy as well:
http://www.artstuff.net/fairgate_vary_form_curves.htm
They are aluminum and won't get hacked up by the blade and badly as plastic.

Notches for stringers just take lots of patience.

Dave

Stickbuilder

If it's a kit that I know that I will be building again, I transfer the templates onto High Pressure Laminate (Formica) and then I have them in a format that won't wrinkle, bend, fold or crease. You can use the disk sander to finish your parts without cutting into the Laminate too.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

tri-pacer

Ben,

The cost of the laser parts depend on the amount of parts you have cut, balsa sizes etc. If you draw it yourself and send it to a cutter, it can be cheaper. If the plane I'm building has a lot of parts, and I have a scan of the plan, then I import it into AutoCAD and trace over the parts I want cut. But lately, because I've been building lots of small planes, I do what Bill does and make a template: Nothing like cutting a lot of ribs on a cold winter day!

Chuck

PA BEN

So how about a ball park cost?