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Swick Taylorcraft

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Old 12-30-2006, 02:47 PM
  #26  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Hi Dave coincidence us both being on line at the same time. The larger of the 2 Braces arms or whatever we should call them I inserted 3 ribs deep as yes I thought that only one would make it weak also. Mind you the wing supports on this model are fully functional.Oh to get the diehedral you set plane upside down on the bench with the fuse at where wing fastens on a book at I believe 1" thick (could be 3/4") check plans. You now insert wings if they touch table both sides make and fit wing supports ,and drill part wing slides into so that wing is bolted in place.Mine has 8 bolts four for front of (2)left and (2)right wing and four for the rear(2) left and (2)right wings. If you don't have enough diehedral it says to sand the part inserted into the spar boxon the fuse. I just checked says 3/4" which isn't a whole lot so time your wings are mounted they will be nice and snug on top where you see them with a slight space underneath
Old 12-31-2006, 10:38 AM
  #27  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Thanks hifly2104,
I understand the struts are functional. Even with the main spar 2 ribs deep it wouldnt be sufficient to support the forces exerted on these wings for sure! But I am going to go one rib beyond what the instructions call for just for overkill sake...
I think that I'll simply ship up the outside wing tip 3/4" and adjust the root rib angle to plum 90 degrees to establish the correct dihedral and a nice finish fit to the wing box on the fuse. I didnt see the instructions indicating to shave off the main spar bottoms inside the box to establish the recommended dihedral but may have just missed it.

I would like to know more about your explination on how you secured the main spars within the 'spar box' with bolts.
Pictures would be good...
Wouldnt they be seen threw the top window? Would that even be an issue??...

Again, thanks for the quick response.

Dave
Old 12-31-2006, 02:03 PM
  #28  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Not a problem Dave.I have some other pics too to show how far along I am . In fact I was just putting on Balsarite as I will start covering today. The bolts go through the spar box into blind nuts . So you need to drill and instal nuts first before you set up the dihedral.When the plane is finished you remove the glass over the cockpit to access the bolts for the wing. That is the one problem I haven't solved yet ,how to hold in the Glass canopy. Well here are the pictures including the glass canopy and engine installed
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:12 AM
  #29  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Very Nice! Seems I've stumbled into this build at the right time with you having plowed threw the problems I now am leaning on you to answer .
What engine have you chosen and what are your performance expectations from it?
Are there 2 fuel tanks? If so, How do you join them?

I like the blind nut / bolt threw the spar box. Before committing to the blind nut location I think that I'll set the dihedral first and drill threw the complete box / spar assembly as its held in position, then insert the blind nut in the hole on the fore side of the spar box. If that makes any sense...

Because my main spars do not run paralell to each other I had setup my bandsaw and cut the appropriate angle into them so that they sit flush with the spar top / bottom for optimum gule adhesion. Some finish sanding made them a nice snug fit. I'll do the same today with the smaller rear spars and epoxy them all into position.

From there its on to the ailerons. I have decided on the 'Frise ailerons'. I believe the plans outline this sufficiently but if you have pictures, they too would be appreciated. I want to support the span of the ailerons with stiff wood as there is no center support with this type of aileron. And they are pretty big... The 3/16 sheet overhanging the rear spar to cover the gap seems a bit flimsy and easily damaged. I was considering a small triangle to run under and support this surface.
I was only going to sheet the root as per the plans even though I'm running the main spar back an extra rib. Did you do this or have you extended your sheeting to the 2nd rib out?

Balsa block seems like a waste for both wood & weight for the wingtips. I'm going to attempt to fashion them out of 1/4" or 3/8" balsa with a hollow core if I can figure out the angles. If not, I wont wast much time in reverting back to solid balsa tips...

Did you do any more than the plans called for with the strut attachments? I have never built a plane with functional struts and want to make sure I have enough strength for them. Anything else you can recall when building your wings, I'll shamefully take!

Thanks Again!

Dave
Old 01-01-2007, 02:19 PM
  #30  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Hi again Dave .I am using a MDS 148 see pics of it installed. This engine is in the range of 3hp so if you wanted unlimited verticle in this plane well I would think you would have it Yes my plane has 2 fuel cells . Joining them is fairly easy But think I need to draw a picture as trying to tell how could make it complicated Ok line from carb to 1st clunk in rt tank.2nd clunk in 1st tank to 1st clunk in 2nd tank(depending on how you fill your cells I prefer the way in picture) 2nd clunk in cell 2 goes to fuel dot Vent line or pressure line bends up to top of cell as normal instal. You need all the clunks to be able to get fuel from one tank tothe next and to remove all fuel from the tanks when finished flying.. I know some fuel dots use a T but I prefer the extra clunk myself

"I like the blind nut / bolt threw the spar box. Before committing to the blind nut location I think that I'll set the dihedral first and drill threw the complete box / spar assembly as its held in position, then insert the blind nut in the hole on the fore side of the spar box. If that makes any sense.." What you say make s sense My plane was partially built so holes where already drilled and nutted
When it comes to the ailerons you are on you own as the previous builder used large robarts pin hinges. As you say though the plans seem to give adequate detail on this though

"I was only going to sheet the root as per the plans even though I'm running the main spar back an extra rib. Did you do this or have you extended your sheeting to the 2nd rib out?" Well I guess it depends on if you count the rib closest to the fuse as being #1 mine then goes out to the 3rd rib I also doubled the main spars with Balsa on each side for shear webs
I had the balsa block for mine . But the other wing already built the tip is hollow (looks as if he carved it out). So I will now have to add weight to the wing with the hollow tip to laterally balance the plane
I haven't got to the struts yet but will take pictures when I do them. I will probably get some sheet metal from work for the ends. . Oh yes I wasn't overly impressed with how they just used one rib for support either haven't done anything yet but probably will try and spread support over at least 2 if not 3 ribs.
Yesterday I said I was having dead ends with how to fasten my glass canopy over the cokpit (see photo) any ideas. Best ideas from another forum is to use earth magnets
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Old 01-01-2007, 03:38 PM
  #31  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

I'm spending my new-years day between glue jobs and the internet...
Magnets sound like they would work although i'm skeptical about the vibration.
We have a velcro-like material where i work that both surfaces are interlocking plastic tabs instead of the regular velcro cloth & plastic hooks. Not sure if anything like this is avail. Even if not, regular velcro would work probibly as well as magnets.

The graphic of the fuel system makes sense. Thanks.
I think I'll try to stick to one tank and keep it as simple as I can.

Dave
Old 01-01-2007, 06:08 PM
  #32  
hifly2104
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Well I spent the better part of new years day on the net and covering on the fuse and some tail feathers. I used Super Coverite. I used Coverite years ago but what I used today is supposed to be new and improved. Well I gotta admit I'd sooner use it than plastic or vinyl or whatever you want to call it.I bought the large 15' roll which is equivalent to atleast 4 regular rolls of covering so that makes it cheaper.Ok so I have to finish it(but I believe it does come coloured)but now I can paint what I want a whole lot easier than cutting it out
Honestly though this stuff goes on so smooth (easy) I need all the help I can get to make things look good!! So here are some pics of what I accomplished today . even one of the Radio Hatch (which I used to paint test on)which goes on the bottom at the back of the fuse so the radio RX and battery can help balance out this plane
Guess I should mention as it is real hard to see in the picture but the entire exterior or the fuse is covered
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Old 01-01-2007, 06:41 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Great Pics! Keeping me inspired for sure!
Covering looks really good. I'm going to tempt fate and order from Aircraft Spruce. They have a lightweight poly that should be alot like Koverall. Although Super Coverite does sound like an intrigueing shortcut,....hmmmm. I could cover it with white (or whatever base I wanted) and spray the trim colors on. Would save all that dopeing, and dopeing, and dopeing... (check'in prices$$)

I have a few pics in return of yours;

the first 2 are my clamp-up's on the spars. Im already considering another build and have decided that if I do, I'll use a solid spar and glued on ribs.

the 3rd & 4th picks are what my grandson dragged out and ploped on the bench next to me. Its a Midwest Aerosport .40 that I had a "spare" wing laying around for. It had been converted to a low wing in its previous existance. I'm keeping that orientation by simply inverting the vert fin position. Should fly as good as it did...

And the last pic is a tool I had aquired at a yardsale, and have found invaluable to the point I have worn it out. Its a thin razor saw. On the handle it reads "STROMBECKER USA". Its laying next to a 6" scale. Id sure like to find a source for these little gems...or something just like em!

Happy New Year !

Dave
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:28 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Here's an interesting thread on another forum. This guy blew up the Simpson Swick plans to 35%.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=swick
Old 01-07-2007, 05:32 PM
  #35  
Praire Flyer
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

My first scratch build plane. The Jim Simpson plans were nice to work with. I look forward to flying her when the snow melts. Engine: ZDZ 40
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Old 01-07-2007, 06:10 PM
  #36  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Looking good Dave . As i mentioned at the beginning some of my plane was built ,like one wing So when I built mine and cause it was on a jig I waited until it was all built to cut out the ribs to instal my wing spar . Was a little tricky but I had only shear webbed the one side in this area until now "the the first 2 are my clamp-up's on the spars. Im already considering another build and have decided that if I do, I'll use a solid spar and glued on ribs." which I guess would be the same as adding the glued on ribs later

Dave did you notice we have some more pictures from the person who started this thread. Someone else we can get some ideas from
Nice job Praire Flyer Looks terrific. i notice you didn't put in the side windows either.Love the Maple Leaf on the pilots shirt Yah Canada!!. Can you tell me/us how you fastened the over cockpit glass hatch

Dave back to your" STROMBECKER " never seen one before ,but name sounded familiarso I googled it. Not saying you will find that knife but it is worth a shot
Old 01-07-2007, 07:14 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Praire Flyer
Nice T-Craft !! And yer first plans build? Great work...
Did you do Frise Ailerons? I'd like to see them if you did...

Dave
Old 01-07-2007, 08:46 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Hello Dave


Yes it was my first scratch build. I enjoyed it so much I have started on my next scratch build project. I built the Frise ailerons as per plans as well as the tabs on the elevators. I will try and post some pics of ailerons as soon as I can.
Old 01-28-2007, 12:10 AM
  #39  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Fiberglass Specialties has the cowl, it's listed under Ace Kits Taylorcraft.
Old 02-01-2007, 09:25 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Great post guys. I had a T-Craft from Great Planes (yeah, the little one) that got away from me and I've wanted another ever since. My dad turned me on to these plans tonight and I did some searching and came across this thread. Great reading! Keep it going and let's hear some flight reports! I'll probably order the plans this week. My dad is the builder, not me. He's got the time, I've got the kids. He builds em, I fly em. It works out nicely. He's since started flying but we're all too intimidated to fly his Giant Scale Corsair from Ziroli plans. He had a guy at the field fly it twice.

If he builds this one, I'd definitely have to fly it. Keep the communication open and I'll get too excited to not have one.

Old 03-12-2007, 06:08 AM
  #41  
hifly2104
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Long time no write,have been busy doing some reno's around the house so no time to build. Well I managed to do some yesterday and I finally have found something in this hobby I definitely don't like doing. That is making the wing struts.To make 2 functional struts took nearly the entire day as I had to wait for epoxy to dry and this is unsanded as of yet.I had some real nice looking pieces of wood that came with what I bought and I started with them . Part way through I thought that the wood wasn't what I wanted. It seemed porous and when I slit the end and slid in the metal to drill it broke way to easy. I have no idea what type of wood it was . It was a medium to dark brown. I just didn't want to chance my entire plane on this wood as these struts are fully functional. I now have the wings mounted and struts mounted and fuse covered. I have not as yet turned plane over to see how it looks right side up. Drilling the holes for the wing bolts is really fun opening in top of fuse is big until you try and get a drill in there,especially when plane is upside down . I went and got a dremel with a flex head. It just fits. The angle head attachment would be much nicer. Most of the plane is covered (all but wings and ailerons)Wanted to mount them first and instal servo blocks . That is one thing I find lacking with this plane it is very vague on certain installations. I know most people have their own methods,but it would be nice if they had shown their radio install and let us improve on it. NEITHER the plans nor instructions show how or where to mount servos or radio other than it has a radio access in rear of the fuse. I will try for some more pics soon and get this plane ready for an April or May Maiden Flight
Old 05-06-2007, 01:04 AM
  #42  
bakerbaker112
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

.
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Old 05-06-2007, 06:09 AM
  #43  
hifly2104
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Very nice pictures. I really like the one taken while it is flying ,was it taken from another model or was the camera man in a full size plane.Your paint motif is definitly help full it will help me with designing mine.I was hoping to have mine finished by now but it hasn't happened and I know better than to push it just to get it finished .Thanks again for the pictures it is an inspiration
Old 05-06-2007, 08:46 AM
  #44  
Jim Messer
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Back about ten years ago I designed a 1/4 scale Swick Taylorcraft for the builders club here in Sebring. I cut five kits and gave them to the builders - we worked together in a rented building close to the flying field. All five airplanes got finished and all five were test flown on the same day. Of course, they flew perfectly.

My airplane was covered with Ceconite, nitrate-doped, and painted with latex paint. So were two of the others. Two were finished with Monocote.

A variety of engines were used. I started with a Zenoah G-23 using a 16 x 8 prop, and the airplane flew, but not with authority. So I installed an old Quadra 35 with an 18 x 6/10 prop, and then it was the airplane that I expected it to be. Finished weight with the G-23 was 12 lbs., and of course a couple of pounds heavier with the Quadra.

Some flew with a Saito 120 - good combination. Your finished plane should be similar to mine. I believe the new G-26 might be an O.K. powerplant today.

Here are a couple of photos taken on the day of the five test flights. I don't believe anybody has ever done a project like this before. I am the guy in the middle.

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Old 07-14-2007, 09:41 PM
  #45  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Jim Please accept my appologies for not replying sooner .Yes that would be quite a feat to build all those planes at the same time and see if there was any differences other than the paint design.I hope mine looks as good as your 5 do
I spent a few hours on mine today ,hooking up the linkages for the boost tabs on the elevators. Then on to making the elevator, rudder, to fuse braces. These have to be dead right on otherwise you will twist the control surface .That would not be good.Once I have this done the fuse will be ready to paint. I will wait to do that and move onto covering the wings first. While I am working on this plane I have to move it every once in a while as my daughter wants me to work on her plane. A treehopper from RC Guys .com. Very much like a senior telemaster,if it flies like one of those I will be very happy.
Old 07-19-2007, 06:08 PM
  #46  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

So how are you other guys that where building the Swick the same time I was, doing.How about some up dates on your planes
Mike.
Old 07-20-2007, 12:55 PM
  #47  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Sorry to say I have nothing to report...
Summer came and my basement got extremely lonely ! [&o]
Except for the occasional visit to retrieve and replace an airplane taken to the field, I havent been building anything.[&:]
When the leaves all fall off the trees this fall I may have more to show and tell but until then, I'm flyin.
PS I'm in the middle of learning to SCUBA dive too and it is takin priority...
Old 07-23-2007, 12:38 PM
  #48  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

This looks really familiar to a 1/4 scale Taylorcraft my father purchased at the LHS. I need to know the C.G. location if at all possible. Maybe somebody could check their plans. We were told this is a Ace model but I'm sure all 1/4 scale's would balance about the same place.

Thank you in advance
Old 07-23-2007, 07:32 PM
  #49  
hifly2104
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Hi I take it the plane you bought was one someone had already built .I checked my plans for you and was quite surprised at the CG. Wing cord measures 15 1/4 " perhaps 15 3/8" didn't have room on my building table to lay it out real flat. The CG measured 5 3/4" from leading edge. This plan is a very aerobatic so I would say that is about 35%. I am not sure I will be starting my CG there,more likely a conservative 25% to 30%of the wing cord Anyone else with some thoughts on this
Old 07-24-2007, 02:55 PM
  #50  
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Default RE: Swick Taylorcraft

Yes, it is one that is already built. Thank you for the GC tip!!

I've got bad news. We got it ready to go, went out today about 11am. Ran the used YS 110 FZ which ran excellent. This is my fathers airplane but wanted me to fly it first. So I took off, it flew great and I had forgot to mix some rudder. But still flew great. Beautiful landing, perfect roll out.

Had plenty of fuel so I took off and my father wanted to fly. Its his airplane so of course I gave him the box. He flew around great
although giving it too much elevator in the turns. Then he decides to bring it in for a landing, last turn he stalls because of giving it too much elevator.

Then it goes spinning in, tore the entire firewall off, engine is fine, busted up the entire front of the fuse. One of the wing struts were damaged but repairable. Wings are fine and tail is fine.

He is going to repair it but I need to know where you guys get the windshield. I am assuming the windshield off the Swick will fit this one. Maybe somebody could kinda measure to see if it would be close.

Thank you guys,
sdcranford


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