crash bandicoute

is there a difference between the seamaster planes? i've seen a couple of pics of them with a v-bottom or tunnel hull, and others that are flat bottom. there is one at my LHS for sale through the owner, but i don't really like the lines of the flat bottom version. is it a modification someone did? pretty simple? how about a twin? i saw a thread for one but the pics didn't work anymore. that would be nice.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

The flat bottom is stock. Some people have ruined... I mean modified it by changing the bottom.

Keep the bottom flat. It makes the coolest sliding turns on the water like that!

hugho

I've built three seamasters of different sizes. They all had flat bottoms. a friend of mine built one with a "vee" bottom and had all kinds of problems on the water, while taxing or taking off. Stay with the flat bottom, it's a proven design. There is a smaller modification with twin motors/engines that handles well on the water and in the air. It uses .15 glow engines.

Good luck,
HughO

crash bandicoute

i'm new to seaplanes. heck, i got a set of GP sport floats just finished and haven't tried them out yet. i heard the first few times landing on them is wicked evil. do the flat bottom planes handle better than the tunnel hull or deep 'v'ones? someone was talking about that and ROW'ing. what is that? they said the flat bottom ones were better. but i ain't going out to row anything.

FlyCrashRebuild

Is there anywhere to get seamaster plans from?

hugho

I got my original set of plans for the .25 glow size from RCM about 15 years ago and used a blueprint company to blow them up for the .45 size and the 1.20 size. Don't know if they're still available. But for a price I can have copies made for you. If you're interested, send me an email - [email protected].

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

In general, any "Flying Hull" design is easier that a standard plane on floats. Personally, i think the Seamaster is the ideal first seaplane provided you can handle anything beyond an intermediate trainer. If you can't, NO seaplane is good!

JimCasey

My Feedback: (1)

The Seamaster was designed with flat bottom. Plans are still available from the RCM Plans service.
http://www.rcmplans.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1727

The flat bottom WILL let you slide it around on the water. It also makes it skip and bounce more easily on landing.

I rebuilt a flat-bottomed SeaCruiser after I strained it through a persimmon tree on the bank. I put in a shallow V bottom. I liked the V-bottom better.

I Don't know why you heard that landing the GP Sport Floats was "wicked Evil"...Even the most hated plastic blow molded floats will land OK.
Land like you do on the ground- glide in, flare, hold the airplane off the surface at a couple of inches high until you run out of airspeed and it settles in. Conventional full-stall landing. If you do it right, you can drag the water rudders for a while before you touch down. That is fun, too. Unless, at 3.14 pounds, the Sport Floats are just too heavy for your plane to fly at reasonable landing speeds.

LaCerne

My Feedback: (16)

Top Notch Models http://www.topnotchkits.com/index_files/TN_Contact.htm cut out a couple of kits for me and a friend. I just finished mine but haven't flown it yet. You might check with him and see how much for the kit, it should be more affordable since he's already done the setup.

Aero Crash Recovery

rcm website does still have the plans available. i just purchased them a day or so ago. 21 bucks, i think for rolled / shipped in a tube. should be a fun plane. i may change the cabin area to be a little taller so the 'winshield' isn't so flat. i may blow it up a little too, and get a couple of .25LA's and make a twin.

dieFluggeister

ROW = Rise Off Water

By 'tunnel hull' I assume you mean planes with twin floats? Although the names are sometimes used interchangeably, 'Float Planes' are regular planes fitted with external floats, and Seaplanes are thought of as the floating hull type. As far as difficulty, landings and takeoffs are similar in technique to that of taildraggers on land. Not hard, just a little different.

rrigby

My Feedback: (1)

  does any body know what the cg is for a ace seamaster 40 is. I bought it in a box at swap meet.I have almost got it put together pleas help

flybyjohn

My Feedback: (2)

I used twin magnum 25 engines on my seamaster 40 built from plans. You don't need to scale it up any. The 25's will be just right for the 40 size. One engine will still fly it in the air, I would not try and take off on one though. I built the wing flat all in one piece and used hemlock for the main spars instead of balsa. The plans I used were free on line and are the lightened version of Ken Willards plans. I can't remember what web site I found them on but if you search around you should be able to find them. I have a write up of my build here on rcuniverse somewhere. Here is a picture of my twin. It handles really well in the water and flys great.

flybyjohn

My Feedback: (2)

rrigby, my plans are not the ace seamaster kit but I would amagine if you balance in on the main spar you will be good to go. You can adjust from there if you choose to after initial flight.

flybyjohn

My Feedback: (2)

I found the website that I got my plans from. Here it is. http://www.colinusher.info/Model%20A...seamaster.html

DESERT RATT

My Feedback: (7)

I have the originalAce R/C Seamaster 40. It does not in the booklet tell where to set CG. It gives beginning Aileron, Rudder and horizontal stab settings, But no CG? I have had this airplane since the first ones were introduced and I still need to finish the build. lol

flybyjohn

My Feedback: (2)

For the ace seamaster 40 arf, several have said between 3 and 3.5" from leading edge.

rrigby

My Feedback: (1)

my plane is a single engine .I am using a thunder tiger pro 46 with a 3 blade prop. need to set control throws ,does any one know what they ar