1987 Seaplane
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1987 Seaplane
Good day all. I friend of mine at work gave me a seaplane. It has the words mermaid on the side. The bottom is plastic, and there's is a decal on the horizonatl stab that says copyright 1987, Japan.
It has a 60.5 inch dihedral wing and a nitro engine mount. It is in great shape, but needs a little TLC. Need you input as too engine size, manufacturer, CG, etc....
It has a 60.5 inch dihedral wing and a nitro engine mount. It is in great shape, but needs a little TLC. Need you input as too engine size, manufacturer, CG, etc....
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
The E-Z models were popular for a while. The covering is a structural laminate of foam, paper, and film, Really pretty but hard to repair.
Bless you for your service in The Corps. I have a nephew flying V22s. His dad flew Cobras and in HMX-1 Semper-Fi.
Bless you for your service in The Corps. I have a nephew flying V22s. His dad flew Cobras and in HMX-1 Semper-Fi.
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
Thanks all. There is a pontoon missing from one wing. but honestly it looks like one was never there. But I assume there was. I might just have to install landing gear on this one. I'm thinking a OS 55AX should power it nicely. Motor mount is already installed. I would love to try it from the water, but not sure about the missing pontoon. SemperFI Jim. All of us are finally civilians. well at least we're trying to be. Nothing like the Corps and we all miss it. There's just no discpline out here in the civilian world. It is an extremely sad state of affairs. Tell your Nephew thanks for serving. I actually was involved with alot of testing on the V22. I was always impressed with the professionalism of the flight crews. They were top notch!!!
#6
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
A .46 or a 70 4-stroke would be perfect IMO, but the 55 will work, try to keep it lite as possible, it would be pretty easy to fabricate a pontoon out of foam/glass/paint. Personally I think it would be a shame not to see it fly off the water.
just find a online CG calculator,, should be pretty easy to figure with that wing shape
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/cg_calc.htm
good luck
just find a online CG calculator,, should be pretty easy to figure with that wing shape
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/cg_calc.htm
good luck
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
ORIGINAL: siddus74
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
yes I seen the control horns on the elevator, too close to the rudder control horn for my liking.
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
ORIGINAL: billd76
Scott,
yes I seen the control horns on the elevator, too close to the rudder control horn for my liking. Plan on switching out the control rods as well with some CF or 4/40
ORIGINAL: siddus74
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
yes I seen the control horns on the elevator, too close to the rudder control horn for my liking. Plan on switching out the control rods as well with some CF or 4/40
#11
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
ORIGINAL: billd76
Scott,
yes I seen the control horns on the elevator, too close to the rudder control horn for my liking.
ORIGINAL: siddus74
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
If the manufacturer has done his job the CG will be about 1/2 an inch infront of the forward most step ....
Also I would be paying much attention to that elevator snake and rod, if you leave it like that Im thinking you'll only see one flight from it!!!
Scott.
yes I seen the control horns on the elevator, too close to the rudder control horn for my liking.
personlly I don't like the way the they are coupled at the other end either.
I aquaried a nice short time, seriously damaged Midwest AT6 for the same reason
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RE: 1987 Seaplane
Right you are, Scale Only 4 Me!
There is an easy way to make nyrods work very well. The metal link should be from the anchored end of the Nyrod sheath to the clevis.
If you make the plastic pushrod the same length as the sheath, then they will both grow/shrink the same amount with temperature changes. It's important only to anchor the ends of the sheath and to have a nearly but not exactly straight run. Growth/shrinkage of the sheath/pushrod happen together and the pushrod/sheath assembly can flex as it grows or shrinks together.. Guys who tie the sheath down in 16 places don't let it move, but the pushrod still grows/shrinks and the trim changes. OR they make the unsupported end of the pushrod so it whips in the breeze and has little resistance to buckling.
There is an easy way to make nyrods work very well. The metal link should be from the anchored end of the Nyrod sheath to the clevis.
If you make the plastic pushrod the same length as the sheath, then they will both grow/shrink the same amount with temperature changes. It's important only to anchor the ends of the sheath and to have a nearly but not exactly straight run. Growth/shrinkage of the sheath/pushrod happen together and the pushrod/sheath assembly can flex as it grows or shrinks together.. Guys who tie the sheath down in 16 places don't let it move, but the pushrod still grows/shrinks and the trim changes. OR they make the unsupported end of the pushrod so it whips in the breeze and has little resistance to buckling.