Roger Gray

Somehow seaplanes are growing everywhere in my garage! I finished the PBM, built a spirtfire on floats as a fill in waiting on a friend to get well, and have started a build of a 6' DH Beaver, all from plans. So much fun so little time. Well I do have to keep my wife happy doing this and that. I do whatever she asks, then get back to my plane! I have pictures of the Spitfire build if anyone wants to see them let me know. For now I'll send progress photos as I build the Beaver.


You can see the aluminum float mounts I've constructed, the plans called for 3/16'" piano wire structs. I build for the joy of it so I had to do something close to scale instead. I love to scratch build. I could build the cowl but have been looking for a source for it in FRP, if not, the I'll mold it and make one. If I do, I'll show how I do it with pictures. More photos to come. See ya!

thailazer

Nice project, and a Beaver belongs on floats! What engine will you put in it?

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Roger,
The Spit looks great. It's one I've wanted to do also, it would be great if you started a thread with pics and details,,, why not

Are those the MAN plans? I bought a set years ago and had them enlarged to 78" span, I had intended to use a OS91fs. What motor do you plan to use? Sadly they we destroyed with most of my plan collection in a basement flood two years ago. I'd probably just make a one off built up cowl,, you're going to need the weight up front anyway.

good luck

Roger Gray

I'm looking at the 15 size gas engines available. I really want a beam mount if at the right price and reputation. The little RCGF is the right price but I don't like standoffs. I found a JBA 15 beam mount for 175.00 but I can't find any reviews yet. I'm going to ask the boys on the gas engine form.

I'll be glad to do a build for the Spitfire soon with pictures and info.

Today I fished a group from Ft. Worth area here on my lake and my back is killing me. We had a great day in 28 degrees and a 10-12 mph wind so I'm going to give it a rest this evening. I started the vertical stab and rudder assy. last night and am glad to be doing a truly areo design with the curved surfaces, it should take a lot of caucious sanding, can't wait to see them all in- stalled on the rear of the fuse.

Later!

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

The smallest gasser I have is a dle20, to bad they don't make a 15 for ya,, the 20 runs fantastic

good luck

Roger Gray

Well I've decided to go with the RCGF 15CC engine from HobbyK-USA. Affordable and the right size. I've been busy building the floats, I built a box that can be used over and over to cut the foam forms. They were covered with 1/64th ply and a 2 oz. layer of glass added to help seal and toughen them. I made them with a round top and they turned out well. I've also started the wing halves and will send photos tomorrow.

Roger Gray

I forgot to say I built up the tail feathers also they were straight build no problems, however the tail cone was another matter. It is built from a single block with alot of carving and sanding. My problem was that I did not want to install the pieces(horizontal and vertical stablizers)and install the cone block then shape it. The h and v stabs are always easier to cover seperately then glued together on the plane! It just makes a cleaner fit for me.

Roger Gray

The photo didn't publish-I'll try again.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

That strut work looks awsome

Roger Gray

Thanks Scale Only-I'm replacing the flat crossbars with streamline tubing-just had to get the right size. Well I'm showing the horizontal stab and the elevator completed. Also the basic wing without the alerions or flaps yet make this thing look somewhat an airplane! The ribs were a fun thing to do, stacking, pinning and drilling then cutting only one on the band saw for each location(center 3 each, flaps 8 per side and 7 per side for alerions and two for tips).I got to go by Lone Star Balsa and pick out some 1/16 sheet material to skin both top and bottom of the leading edge. I'm still studing the hinge arrangement for the flaps. I may build the hinges-theprint called for a special hinge made by Robart, however, I haven't been able to find them on their site. They might have been discontinued. Later guys

Roger Gray

I got my 1/16 sheet material today and have started the leading edge sheeting.  It may be slow I'm using Titebond III which sands much more smoothly on visible areas such as this rounded front edge.  I'm trying to decide how to install the servos for the ailerons and flaps in the wing center section.  The designer figures you should be able to do this on your own.  Sometimes it takes some thought.  I'll share my finished design later.

Roger Gray

Got my engine today and could not wait to hang it on the firewall. I worked all day rigging and building the Pull-pull for the rudder and installing cables. Rigged the elevator control linkage and installed the servos for both, then got the engine in the mail and hung her on. I was so pleased the standoffs missed everything I had done with the firewall reinforcement. I think the engine will be just fine with the right prop. Here are a few photos showing the engine with stock exhaust, I may get the wrap around exhaust.

thailazer

Looks like the engine was custom made to look good in front of that firewall. Very nice!

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Dittos,,, Find a cowl yet?

Roger Gray

I'm going to build my own. I have the frp materials on hand so I'll make a plug and make my own. I'll post a few construction photos.

Roger Gray

I have spent the last few days building the cowl for my plane. It turned out that I would need to build one anyway because there are a few differences from the stock ones available. The 15cc engine caused me to add a little length. The raw core fits very well and I plan to add a cooler on the bottom where the engine head comes through as seen in the photos. I sure wish I could add a false radial engine-it would look great, however, it would not allow me to drop the cowl down below the head and then back up in attachment position. Shucks!

Roger Gray

I said I would post pictures of the cowl build. SORRY! I got busy and the rest you see. I built this one as a one time deal. No mold, just several pieces of flat sheet pink foam(same as blue) to the 5 5/8" dim. needed for the total length of the cowl from firewall to the back of the prop. Part of the length was a soft balsa ring cut on a scroll saw to make the nose ring. This is used in the nose area where the glass turns inside and back towards the firewall about a half inch. It is guled on top of the stack of pink foam "rounds" used to buid up the total heigth(length)of the cowl. I was fortunate the print gave me a pattern of the cowl at the firewall(called the cowl ring on the plans). All of the rings are contact cemented to each other to make the stack. Cement must be foam safe! This method works very well if you don't mind the mess, lots of sanding dust and bits of foam, and a rather long finish sanding process. You will need to use primer and filler materials to ge t the be finish.The smooth, finished foam plug you end up with must then be glassed with epoxy resin and light weight glass to make a 3/32 or more thickness wall thickness. Now heres the really messy part. PLEASE DONOT DO THIS INDOORS After all fiberglass work is done and completely cured- POUR UNMIXED GASOLINE in it and watch what happens. After the foam has reduced to muck remove it with paper towels or an old clean rag and continue to clean the inside and out with clean papertowels/rags and clean UNMIXED(no oil)gasoline. DON'T DO THIS IN YOUR GARAGE OR ON THE DRIVEWAY! You would never get the stains up. Now wash it with hot water and soap until sweeky clean. I hope this helps. Hint: When glueing the rings together make sure the glue is about 1/2 inch inside the the diameter of the cowl, makes for easier sanding. Should you try this let me see your new cowl. Later Guys!

Roger Gray

After a re re re read, I made a mistake. The plug or raw foam core does not get any primer paint! That would ruin it. Just sand it as smooth as possible, fiberglass it, and then you primer and fill the glassed core(plug) until it is the finish you desire. Then the gasoline trick. Please be careful! Don't bolw yourself up or burn down your house! Later

Roger Gray

I installed a cooler shaped cover over the engine head. It might not be scale but close enough to look OK. I'm going to primer the whole cowl tomorrow. My wrap around exhaust should be here soon! Going to cover and install the tail feathers and complete the pull pull system thats already installed for the rudder. I'll put the 1/64 ply to the sides after all the systems are functioning.

Roger Gray

This is a responce from a request from KWBLAKE-Kevin I hope the photos will be a help, if you have any questions just ask, I'll be glad to help. I'll say up front this job is done with a band saw with a metel cutting blade, utilizing streamline and round alum. tubing. 1/16 flat sheet and some 1" alum angle. Small 4-40 socket head machine and sheet metal screws and lock washers. A few size 2 socket head sheet metal screws. I buy most of my nuts and bolts from McMaster-Carr co. they sell in quanity at very good priceing. Good Luck!

kwblake

Very nice.

Roger Gray

Well things have changed since last time I posted! It's amazing what a little color can do. I've installed the windshield since these photos were made. I'll show it later along with the graphics I've ordered. Good building and flying fellas.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Roger, she looks great,,, but a FYI,, wood props and water don't play nice,, good luck

Roger Gray

Oh I know that, the wood one was lieing on a table close by. I use 3-blade Graupners most of the time for better clearance and haven't got my order yet.

Otter Guy

2 blade beavers are hotter than 3 bladers! louder, but the old couterweight or hydromatic props have some serious class. plus they pull a little harder! lookin really really good sir! love the float struts. i hope your new exhaust exits the bottom right like the real thing.