splinterz25

Okay my roll has slowed down a bit working on the nose and turret; I need to sand more off the bottom of the nose cone to level out the turret, I don't think I'll bother w/ making it rotate at this time.
I may come back at a later date and add that feature in? but I'm really trying to keep her as light as possible from here on out.

That's why I'm only using DEFT on the top side of the fuse for glassing but I'll use resin on the bottom and about an inch up the sides; once primed & painted w/ Rustoleum Pro she should be sealed fairly well, Don't for get I used Balsa Rite sealing all over the in side as well.

Check the progress so far today,

Bruce

klord125

Simply AWESOME!!! True craftsman....

splinterz25

Thank you very much klord125 glad to have you along I was beginning to think nobody was checking this build out on this site.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay I've made some more progress and also cleaned off half of the build rooms table and moved the BV-138 Fuse into the room.

The nose has been primed, spot puttied and wet sanded the canopy molt has been baked and it very dry ready to start Fast N Final, poly, wax and spray release.

I'm going to be building a Vac-U-Box set up using a few methods I seen people do all rapped into one and of course I'll be showing this step by step for those of you needing one also.

Making a list for supplies and heading to the store early and then hitting it hard I have the entire day to my self just for building.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay went to the store and got two 8" 1"x 1"ALUM L-Brackets for the frame of the Vac-U-Box and some ply, peg board,and wing nuts & bolts.
I've also ordered a heating element I'll have to make a metal lined box for that unless I can find one already made that will work.

It's really cool it has a thermostat built in it made for lighting charcoals for meat smokers the element is 16"x 11" x 3" and if it doesn't work I'll use it for my smoker.

And the progress continues prepping the canopy mold for fiberglass and glassing the top aft end of the fuse in between.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright the whole fuse is covered w/ 3/4 oz glass cloth and Deft; I'll go back once dry trimmed and sanded and cover the bottom w/ a thin coating of resin.

This will be easier because the piece of glass cloth will now not be able to move and cause puckers and wrinkles while putting the resin on w/ a card .

My mold for the canopy will be ready by the time I cover the bottom of the boat / fuse and I'll work that in as well at the same time.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright I started the day by adding RESIN to the glass on the bottom of the boat/ plane; I didn't show this this time I had to work way to fast w/ this quick set resin.

I mix and spread it on w/ a brush then use an old plastic credit card to scrape off the access resin; I went up the sides about where the water line will be and on the aft section all the way back to the tail.

Then I mixed another batch of resin and laid up the canopy using 3/4 oz cloth for the first and 2 oz for the second layer and that's it, this will be very thin.

Now while that cures I'll go down to the shop and start building the Vac-U-Forming box; I've come up w/ a few additions for this and will show while building the box.

Check it,

Bruce

Bill Diedrich

As usual Bruce it is a real pleasure watching a master at his work,
look forward to all of you post on both build's you have going, not being
retired as of yet I can't even think about starting a huge undertaking such
as this PBY Catalina, keep it coming, I'm learning a lot on this one.

Bill D.

splinterz25

Thank you Bill YOUR VERY KIND

I'll most likely post this on the builders work shop thread on RCG also after I have it fully built and up and running so I can show a video; I still need to order my plastic it comes from the west coast, I'll be ordering a few 4'x8' x 0.030 sheets soon.

Well I had to go get some more supplies this morning I'll show photos of what I'm using for those of you who would like to build one this way.

There's MANY ways to build these this is what I've come up with; I'm trying to make one set up to form using maybe three sizes of plastic sheet the largest being 18"x 22" and down this will help save plastic when doing small parts.

I've made my box using 1/2" ply this is my choice I don't like MDF it's heavy and harder to work with.

It's glued and nailed w/ a brad gun to hold parts until the glue dries.

I'll still be building the heat box next the heating element is on it's way from Seattle I'm using Galvanized sheet steal in side; but if you trying to cut coast heavy duty ALUM foil would probably work just fine, I want something that's going to last years.

I'm going to just post photos and let you guys & gals ask any questions you may have; I try to let the photos tell it all but you still may have questions.
IF YOU WANT TO SEE CAPTIONS W/ THE PHOTOS LOOK HERE
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...846463&page=37


Check it,

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay guys I started the day by getting some longer bolts; I changed them to 1 1/2" 1/4" - 20 flat head, the reason for this was to raise up the wing nuts above the 1" L stock w/ some brass tube I cut into 1" sections to make stand offs.

Then I bent the inside L stock to shape making my marks 1/4" less than before so it would fit inside w/ a gap for the nuts from the hing bolts.

Then w/ 1/8" shims on the long sides I clamped them in place and marked where I wanted my wing nut standoffs to be positioned and drilled them on the drill press.

Then I put them back into the frame and used a dead center drill to get there exact position for the main frame, then I unscrewed the hinges and took the frame to the drill press and finished drilling the 1/4" holes.

After that I put the center frame back in place w/ shims into the main frame and flipped it over and drilled the counter sunk holes for the heads of the bolts.

There's still more yet to do, I had to stop and eat and cut more brass tubing to 1" pieces while sitting down for a rest.

I've also ordered four sheets 4'x 8' x 0.030 of PETG or Vivak clear plastic it should be here next week.

I also removed mold from the fiberglass canopy it came right out of the mold the plaster could be used again.

Check the progress, and feel free to ask questions.
If you want captions w/ the photos check waterplanes on RCG.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay today I continue to make the frame work so far I've made it so you can pull two sizes one is the full size 17"x 21" the second is 17" x 12" the box can be made two sizes smaller yet by making two more cross L brackets. ( I laid a piece of scrap across in one photo to show this)

I'll make those as needed and I'll need to pick up a small piece of 1/8" x 1" ALUM stock for the bottom of those cross pieces to make them come out flush against the pegboard.

So after getting that finished I ran some more test to see if there was enough suction coming from my VAC. (make sure you clean or replace the filter)
I'm using a Craftsman shop vac. and it seem to be quite adequate w/ pull; but to be sure I taped a piece of paper over the unused area and ran tape around the seam of the pegboard.

Then turned on the vac. and used a sheet of printer paper to how it would pull it down.

The real test will be when I get the plastic gets here I hope as soon as the heating element.

I then started to prep. the steal sheet for the heat box by buffing it to a high luster w/ my car buffer and car wax ; this will reflect the heat even better when I build the box.

Check it,

klord125

Oh trust me Splinterz. I have been watching in total amazement. It is a huge undertaking that you are making look a hell of a lot easier than it really is. Great work!!!!!!

splinterz25

Thank you klord glad you liking the thread.

Alright guys and gals this is what I've done this morning,
first I've decided to not use hinges for the frame and I'll be making another handle
for the other side and skinning them w/ 3/4 ceder to keep the fingers from burning.

The reason for taking the hinges off is this when forming tall pieces 4" or 5" the hot plastic needs to come straight down on to the plug to get a good pull.

If I were to have a bunch of small pieces I would then screw them back in.

The heater element I bought is really nice w/ the dial heat control;I'm not going to try and explain everything just have a look and if you have questions just ask.

Check it out,

Bruce

splinterz25

Well while waiting on the plastic and since were having a party/cook out this weekend; I took some time and cleaned the shop this weekend.

Then this morning I moved all the bits & pieces of the BV-138 build up stairs to the build room and the PBY build down stairs to get it ready for silk, dope & primer.

I over did it though this weekend and pulled something in my back so the rest of the day I'll work in my chair working on cutting out the fiberglass canopy's windows.

Check it out I haven't had this much room in the shop since I first made it into a shop LOL.

splinterz25

WELL OKAY I went ahead and finished carving out the windows.
The plastic came today but I think I'll get to setting up for some pulls tomorrow.
I'm just going to rest my back for the rest of the evening.

Check out the progress, this is before primer it's drying now.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay quick post then down stairs to cut the plastic and set up to make some test pulls w/ my NEW Vac-U-Box setup.

I shot primer then spot putty then primer after sanding in between each of course and it's ready to sand again; I'll do that later to day.

Here's where that canopy is now, check it out.

Bill Diedrich

Good morning Bruce nice to see the progress you have made on the Catalina, are we aiming for
a late summer christening and first flight? It looks like this building project is coming to the home
stretch, looking forward to the finishing touches and eventual "Maiden Voyage " of this fine build
you have been doing here on RCU, RCG & Scale Builder. A lot of work just posting all of the photos
on all of these sites. Am really enjoying.

Bill D.

splinterz25

Bill most likely not there's still a great deal of details and reg work yet to do.

I've been busy preparing for our cookout/ party these last few days and I be back on the build and working on plugs come Monday. []


Bruce

splinterz25

Okay I didn't get much done today after painting the P-38M's pluge and gluing the balsa up for the PBY's plug, I just waited until the glue setup enough, then wiped out the rough teardrop shaped turret plug in about 2 hrs this evening.

After making the beveled base I'll be ready for Deft sanding sealer & Epoxy paint.

Check it out,

Bruce

klord125

Again... Beautiful work !!!

splinterz25

Thank you klord125

I've added a base w/ 15 degree angle it now has two coats of sanding sealer on it and drying.


I've also been working on the canopy, nose turret and nose cone more on that later.


The other thing I've been doing is sanding and sanding on the fuse base where the resin was applied; now it time for spot putty on the base only.


I've also added a few more coats of sanding sealer on thetop side of the fuse, virt stab, stab.


You can see the added beveled base here,

splinterz25

Okay over a year later and there's paint going on the fuse JUST PRIMER
But some color; don't get to excited though there's a great deal of RIVETS on this plane.

I should get a hold of Chad Vick and order some more he's a bit busy these days and they may take awhile to get?

The bubble turret plug has Epoxy paint on it now and has to dry I won't touch it for 48 hrs; it looks like there's two pin holes on it? but I'm leaving it alone.

The fuse needs 24 hrs at least to dry before I do anymore to it; so I'm back on the canopy and nose turret.

CHECK THE DAYS PROGRESS,

Bruce

splinterz25

HERE'S WHERE ..THE VAC-U-BOX IS.

After a few tries w/ different sizes and heat it worked.

But I think on the PBY plug I'll use a very light coat of NOVIS plastic polish to help the release.

I now can pull FOUR different sizes the smallest be a sheet 11.5 x 12 that one was to small for this plug being so tall and I'm using 0.030 plastic.

I used all of the suggestions I received from everyone the best one being to turn the plug against the rec. shape SO THE CORNERS DO NOT LINE UP.

Thanks Willsonman,

If or when you ever go to try to pull something have a LOT of extra plastic so you can play around w/ the temp and height of the sheet from the heat source to get it to sag w/ out touching the burner.

That's it for this test subject the next will be the PBY's plug I may be able to get to it on Sunday and that would be better to let the plug's epoxy paint harden even more.

SO ANYWAY CHECK IT OUT,

Bruce

splinterz25

HAPPY 4th of JULY everyone!
A big thanks to those who have served this country!!

splinterz25

I was able to get a small bit of work done, stuck some rivets on the canopy and shot the fuse w/ primer; on this busy weekend

Bruce