alex5

Wow ,a lot of minute work there.Great stuff.Ok,now a kind of WTH question.Why is there so much space between the the chine bracket and the pin bracket?...is it play for some unknown reason...I can see it in the drawings...but ,it doesnt make much sense,structurally.The Beaver has a similar ,But different,pinning approach,where the Upper pivot is a substantial rod,through bracket,and, where the chine bracket is,in the Cat,another horizontal pn and bracket,instead of the vertical clevis,into a vertical hole.It is funny how different designers tackle the same problems differently.Alex

splinterz25

Well I made some more progress today ; there's still some more details I can add but I want to get the second beaching gear oleo caught up to the first before moving on w/ more details.
And also I want to get the other three Struts mounted to the fuse; and all four mounted to the wings.

It may not seem like I've done much but this is harder than it looks there's quite a few Variables involved with the mounting; angle, pitch, yaw, height and pin alignment.

Bruce

alex5

Yes,that was why I had mentioned not to solder those ,until you can position them all together,assembled...as a very tiny difference in construction can result in a huge pitch change.Almost like you have to put chocks under the wing and tail with the plane in the right attitude,then mount the beaches(sounds almost sexy,haha) and solder in place.In my beaver,I had made threaded inserts fitting inside the struts,and used threaded eye bolts,so I could adjust the wing dihedral support of the struts.In other words ,a ton of jigs to hold the plane in attitude,to mount the hardware.

splinterz25

Yep there's a great deal going on there Alex.

NO BEACHING GEAR WORK TODAY; BAKING PIES

HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE

splinterz25

Well moving forward: today I readied the wing struts w/ there inner pieces parts and shaped the escutcheon plates out of 1/16' ply; I changed my mind on how I'll be doing these escutcheon plates.

Once I have these as far as I can go, I'll go back to the second oleo and finish it while waiting on the screws and brass inserts.

Lunch time,

Bruce

alex5

When I made my struts,I filed aluminum fillers to fit the strut profile threaded,for my eyebolt,(wasn't hard at all),inserted the filler,drilled the strut and filler with a 1/32 drill,and inserted a small common nail through the hole.trimmed it a little,and banged a head on it,to lock it in place.That meant I had adjustment with my eyebolt,as well as a locked in fastening method.Maybe your escutcheons could be brass shim stock,or even epoxy and cloth wraped around the strut for a perfect fit.You could clean it up after it goes off.Alex

splinterz25

Alex I'll be drilling into the strut going through counter sinking the head of a 4-40 screw into the Alum.
where I just added the 1/16" thick piece, there will be threaded inserts in blocks of wood glued to the
wing ribs, these counter sunk bolts will thread into the brass inserts there will be only 3 bolts per side to
mount the wings.

Bruce

splinterz25

Well while in between looking for a shoulder surgeon and getting the MRI photos today I tried my hand at making an escutcheon for the strut that gets the beaching gear; don't judge to harshly this is the first one of these I've done this way, still some tweeking yet to do

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay I was able to get a lil bit done today
The flange / fairing around the strut needed some tweeking and sanding so the pin would go through and attach THE BEACHING GEAR to the fuse.

To give it a tighter fit I mixed up some more epoxy w/ microballoons and applied a small amount to the back side and pressed it in place on the plane w/ a sheet of plastic taped it in place pulled tight.

And I put a screw in the brass plate to pull it tight to the fuse where I inset it flush w/ the fuse skin, and shot a few coats of primer on the fairing.

Check it,

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay...No work on the PBY today went to see the surgeon today
I need total shoulder replacement surgery but I should be myself once again by summer

I'll will still be able to build RC planes while healing only out for a few weeks at most.

Bruce

Bill Diedrich

Good luck with the surgery Bruce, I know it will be uncomfortable for
a while but I'll keep you in my prayers for a total recovery and fast
healing..

Bill D.

splinterz25

Thank you Bill I hope I heal as fast as I use to and I can get back to my life.

splinterz25

HERE YOU GO ALEX...
Okay guys here's what I've been up to; there's a few that don't see how I'm going to
connect this strut at the top into the wing's bottom.


I'm using 4-40 brass inserts w/ a hex drive counter sunk 4-40 machine screw; the screws are drilled through the top of the strut where I added that 1/16" thick piece of Alum.
Then counter sunk into the epoxy / microballoons fairing ; the brass inserts were epoxy glued in to the wing.
I put a piece of paper towel in the inside threads, so not to get any glue in there then some 3 &one oil on the threads of the screw.
I then put it together w/ the epoxy WET to make sure the brass inserts had the proper angle while drying.


three more to do; they should be faster all parts are made now except a few more solder joints on the other oleo.


Check it,


Bruce

splinterz25

Well I finished up the strut fairings on one side and started the second side.

I've been looking a dummy engines also; Willams Bro's has 12th scale dummies $32 ea. but you'll see my carb will hit, most likely no matter what I do any ideas here?

Willams Bro's is only 7 cyl. not 14 like the scale

I have a 5" cowling and if anybody knows of a 7 or 14 cyl dummy please let me know.

12th scale works but my plane is weird it's 11th scale, because of making the WS 8'.

Bruce

splinterz25

Well just as I was posting the ***** about the USPS.... The wheel collars showed up
so I went ahead and finished the main beaching gear; the paint is not just red from the bottle, the camera makes it look that way.
These will never see fuel so there model paint, the red is mixed w/ brown to dull it down the brass was primed w/ a grey first so when it gets scratched it will look scale.

I'll be adding weathering to these so they match this weather tattered and torn PBY catalina.

The second side struts is coming along and should be finished tomorrow; then it's on to the aft beaching gear.

I've started to move the plane so I can work on the other side and took some time to pick up my building room some; running out of room in there.

Check them out,

splinterz25

WELL I HAVE ALL WEEKEND TO BUILD AIRPLANES NO FUNNY LIL HONEY.

I STARTED W/ GETTING THE SECOND SIDE FAIRINGS EPOXY MIX APPLIED AFTER DRILLING AND SETTING THE BRASS TUBE/ PLATES.

I'LL WHIP OUT THE SECOND LANDING LIGHT NEXT; THEN START ON THE AFT BEACHING GEAR.

OH I FORGOT LOOKING AT THE SPACE IN THE COWLING IF I WERE TO ADD
A SPACER ON THE PROP SHAFT I'LL GAIN A 1/4" IN THERE; NEED TO FIND A SPACER W/ KNURLINGS.
Bruce

splinterz25

Today I started making the aft beaching gear and put her on her on her front feet;
I think I have got those forward beaching gears scale, the tires even show a load on them.

I'm having a hard time judging the aft gear there's not very many close up photos of the aft gear; getting the three tubes / struts the correct size may a task?

check her out I can now start to see the light at the end of the tunnel a lil bit.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright guys and gals thought I would pop back on and show the ROUGHaft beaching gear idea; the wishbone shaped piece tips slid into two small tubes w/ sq.
plates soldered and drilled to accept 4-40 steal rod; this is my answer to those hooks, not
practical for modeling.


There however will be a cross member soldered on top of the main strut holding both
pieces of the wishbone and another tube soldered across as well.


The tow hook is up inside about 1/2" and will be in set along w/ those two other plates;
the tow hook plate will have two counter sunk screws on each side and will also be epoxied in
along w/ the other two plates.


The rod going back to the tow hook will be drilled through and a pin w/ a chain will go there.


I also have the jack handle ready to solder on w/ a swivel; all these parts can be seen in the
drawing.

splinterz25

I had to glue in some 3/8" dowels w/ holes drilled in them to give the front struts some BEEF
It's only 1/8" balsa skin back there; I glued them in w/ Gorilla glue after wetting the dowels.
I had brass inserts w/ plates but I didn't need those, the 3/8 poplar dowels are fine for this.


I also did some work on the tail feathers I installed a removable hing for the top of the rudder.


And I also fit and drilled in a brass insert for my fiberglass tail piece counter sunk and screwed it on.


I finished the aft beaching gear and panted it, I like these wheels better than the front ones and maybe ordering 4 solid rubber ones for the front; they are getting flat.
They must not be rated for a plane this size .


Check it,

alex5

are you any good at vacu forming?If so,make a 14 segment pie,the right diameter,take one segment out,and use it as the base for a plug of the cylinder.put two pieces of alum.sheet parallel and vertical(they represent the tubes)Between these two,you stack the cooling fins,and the cylinder bore Od diameter.Ie,like stacking alternate nickels and dimes.You would be surprised at how quickly the dummy of one cylinder is built.You shape the fins to suit your photos.You paint the fins with good quality spray enamel and add release ,very carefully.you then make a mold from this one master .There are many ways to make cooling fins with taper,built in,to allow you to draw the part, front to rear.I made the plug for the 9 cylinder using silicone for the mold,and bondo,for the plug(9 of them)Then I assembled the nine,and vacu formed the whole.You could also,simply pour Quick-cast on your plug,(making your mold)then use that as the vacu-form,or,laminate using sheer curtain polyester fabric and epoxy.You can cut out the backs of the pipes,after.
Bruce,How brittle is your cabosil and epoxy blend?The thing I am concerned about is the escutcheons,hardening with time(which is why I suggested cloth buildup)It may not be a factor,but usually epoxy becomes brittle with time, if used as a cast.Alex

alex5

I was hunting on the web for a reasonable facsimile,not much around at your scale or size.It kind of looks like you have something to do,Haha.Make an inner ring to contain the base of your pie segments If you use the tubes as the edge of your master plug segment,You i can easily center the cylinder.Alex

alex5

Here is a 3d model rendering from the web to illustrate what you are looking at

alex5

One thing I had not thought of,till I fell asleep,was: get the radial face 3d printed by somebody with a maker bot.After all it is a very thin piece of plastic,mounted to your cowl.It should cost very little,once you have your 3d model in a STP or igeis file.
Here is a link for a dummy 9 cylinder build.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blo...aso-shows-how/

ALex

alex5

There is an interesting r1830 plastic repro 1/32 scale for for very little money by Vector.
http://www.ultracast.ca/.
They took a simple approach by making 14 cylinders,and inserting them in the hub.Since you are creating the illusion of 2 rows of cylinders,it might be easier to do 1/2 the cylinder row,and then make the identical part and offset it by one cylinder space.Kind of like,make 2 of 7 cylinder engines,and slice them in half,then glue the front halves to each other,making a dummy face.,as I dont think you have the space for a complete twin row of pistons.That would probably occupy close to 2 inches,linear if made as full on scale.

alex5

Anyone got a link for a cad model of P&W R1830 90,or 92?,I could scale that,and Bruce could get it 3d printed.for a non -modelled solution.Alex