splinterz25

Alex I don't know anyone w/ a 3-d printer I was just going to go w/ 2 of the Willams Bro's 12 scale 7 cyl models they don't have the 14 cyl in 12 scale there detail is unsurpassed; but I may still have trouble fitting it because of the two strokes carb; if you go back I showed photos of this, I 'm trying to gain 1/4" of space by adding an extra washer to push the prop out and there for moving the cowling out a well.

Bruce

splinterz25

Here's one I did when I was building my Stinson SR-9

Bruce

alex5

there is actually a on-line service for it.Printbot,I think,you just submit your file,and 2 days later,they ship it.I realize that a full true to scale,14 cylinder would occupy a lot of the prop shaft ..from your motor to the prop.that was why I kinda hinted on the illusion of depth,by making a 2 layer sandwich of half of a 7 cylinder.All you need is the outermost lifters showing,really.Alex

alex5

Ponoko offers the service.Type a search for" 3d printer service on-line".Bear in mind,it is a suggestion,to get a size that you want...nothing more.It would be made in abs plastic.For instance,if you have 5 inches inside the cowling,then you size/scale the 3d model accordingly,then print it.It is possible to print different colors in the same model.

alex5

The thing with the technology,is to have a model of what you want,then you submit it to be manufactured.

alex5

I just got off the phone with a guy running a 3d print service (3dphactory)in Toronto, and he sees the dummies costing about $100 canadian,for the pair,if you have the computer model,in about a week(actually much faster)but I put in some margin.The whole trick would be to have the computer model..It can be scaled to suit.There,now you know the can be alternatives.Alex

splinterz25

how much does something like that cost to 3-d print? If i can just get the face w/ the detail that the willams bros dummy model has but thinner i might try that.

alex5

I asked for a thickness of material of about 1/8",with an overall elevation of 1".To my way of thinking,a deeply dished teacup saucer,5" od,and 2"Id ring.Just a suggestion.Alex

splinterz25

I can get the Wilams Bro's models for $25 ea BUT I'll look in to this because I could then get the 14 cyl wasp.???

Bruce

alex5

is it possible to cut the dummies in half,and do it again on the second set...ultimately,the same price....

alex5

was looking at the williams stuff again...why not use the dummy engine(just the front halves of the kit below.http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/wbr/wbr30600.htm After all,that is 1/8 scale..might work

alex5

if your cowling inside is 5",and your center sleeve is 2",then you need 1 1/2" wasp cylinders.williams #WBR30500or 1/12 th scale.that goes to saying you are scaling your wing from 100 ft to 96",basically 1:12

splinterz25

1/2 th scale works it's a weird size about 11 th scale the cowling is 5" id.
HERE'S WHAT I'M DOING TODAY:

I COLOR CODE THE PLUG ENDS THE WING BOLT WILL PULL THE CONNECTORS TOGETHER.
THAT PART IS EASY: REMEMBERING WHAT THE :censored::censored::censored:
I DID A YEAR AGO IS THE PROBLEM. LOL


Bruce

splinterz25

Yes wiring this is going to be a pain in my FOR SURE

This is when I need a tecno geek to come over and run this stuff

no takers though

Bruce

splinterz25

There's been some questions on the BATTERY SYSTEM

LET ME SEE IF I CAN EXPLAIN THIS:
My system for my jack screws was created from using the motors from two
screw guns w/ there clutches & gears for about $12 each; they came w/ there own batteries and charge ports.
SO what I need to do is fit both of these batteries and charge ports w/ the micro switches and the micro servo and RX in the top center of the wing.

These two batteries only power the jack screw motors one for each side.

Here are a few shots to try and help you understand what I'm doing there's still a great deal of work to do yet though.

splinterz25

OKAY MARTIN asked this question on another site.
Bruce, from the looks of the cam on the servo it seems you are going to lower the tip floats one at a time.
Or are you going to change the cam to close both switches at the same time?


I said:


OKAY this is a good question that everyone needs to see.

NOW let me try and explain this;

Each side has a motor connected to a jackscrew at the start and stop point there's a micro switch that stops each motor when the travel is complete.

When you want to raise or lower the tip floats the micro servo w/ the cam lobes Martin is talking about will be activated w/ CH 5; this is for landing gear on most TX.

WHEN It's on ONE of those micro switches BOTH SETS of floats will move to the landing position; when you throw the CH 5 switch again to the other micro switch it makes the tip floats go up.

Both sides are wired to this servo w/ micro switches in the center hatch; this is where the RX and the lighting hub will also be.

I hope this makes since to everyone

Bruce

alex5

Just to put in my 2 cents,why not just two servo-less retracts,.as you can get nice slow ones that would easily handle the light loads,and weigh far less?Alex

alex5

59 grams,upto 5 kgs,but you dont have weight like a landing gear

splinterz25

Have you read the whole build? I have ONE micro servo running BOTH
floats; My custom built Jack Screws CO$T LESS THAN $20 ea. to make and have way more power than anything on the market.
And they go very slow.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/seap...weitzer-8.html

Check the build and the video.

Bruce

alex5

dont mis-understand me,Bruce.I have used cordless drills for a similar purpose,but,the key factor in flying,is weight,vs cost.If you have a heavy turkey,it wont lift off the water.There are nice servo-less units for 10.00 a piece,weigh59 grams,so,(120 g)4 oz for 2,and have no complexity about them.My guess is you want to come in around 10 lbs,all in,given the engines.All in all,there is only so much you can put in,before it turns to a brick.Alex

splinterz25

ALEX THIS PLANE WILL WEIGH ABOUT 15 -18 LBS THIS IS NO FOAMIE I'VE SAID THIS ALONG
SHE WEIGH's 12 LBS NOW.

Bruce

splinterz25

OH YEA THAT'S RIGHT I DON'T HAVE LANDING GEAR....SO NO WEIGHT THERE.
I can't say what other planes like this weigh no one has done one w/ an 8' WS w/ these plans and no
Landing gear and I'm covering w/ silk & dope.

A 10 lbs plane of this size is what electric guys TRY to obtain but few ever hit the mark.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay did a lil bit today...Made the hatch and fit the servo & micro switch board farther down into the planes neck; the hatch is slightly bent w/ two pieces glued together 1/32" ply outside and 1/16" balsa inside.

The hatch will be held in place w/ 8 rare earth magnets 2 in each corner; these are very strong magnets I think that should be enough, I'll test it in the morning the
E-6000 is still drying.

splinterz25

I think I'll try this product on the inside of the hatch after sealing the balsa first w/ BalsaRite and also over the batteries; it can go on very thin like paint but it is rubber.

splinterz25

Okay I haven't been able to do much the past few days down w/ a really bad cold.
Not even trying to think about wiring; but I did order and receive my dummy engines.

These are Willams Bro's 1/12 scale WASP DUMMY ENGINE MODEL KITS; there very nice BUT there 9 Cyl. the PBY had 14 cyl engines.

SO MY QUESTION TO YOU GUYS IS : Should I take the time to modify these models so they look more correct or just build them as they are?

The top cyl. will most likely have to be totally removed because of the carb on the OS 46 engine.

I know how to make these look like the twin Wasp: I'll just have to make 2 new rear sections of the crank case and since I'm only going to be able to use the front half of the model I'll use the back sides for the extra cyl's.

I know a few of you will say why didn't I just 3-D print them but there are other ways of doing things.

Bruce