splinterz25

I made a two pulls today, I was toying around w/ making the ring that the cyl. heads
mount into so I could make it 14 cyl. but it's just not worth the extra effort.

So here's the start: I have to paint the cyl. heads before gluing anything, and also the crank case but I have to assemble the crankcases first; I'm only using half of ea. cyl. the photo shows the back row in place roughly w/ NO glue the top / or front row will fit in between.

I think I'll be okay w/ air flow and if not these DUMMIES will be removable and may only be used for display; if need be.

splinterz25

Well I've made a start on the dummy engines; I'll most likely have to cut / alter the top three cyl's. for the OS .46 carb so it will be
able to get good air intake.


This is a perfect thing for me to work on right now not much thinking


still getting over this cold; but having fun.

splinterz25

Here's what I've been up to;I'll have to alter this to fit but went ahead and built it completely and there's still a few details yet to add, but you should see where I'm going w/ this.Now to add the push rods and wiring to the second dummy.

alex5

Bruce,What would happen if you slice the 7 cylinder master in half,then copy the half master.Then assemble the copy,with the half master(rotated by 25 approx degrees)to create a dummy 14 cylinder,with only the front halves and the illusion of depth...should be around 1 " deep overall,if my eye serves me right.You could simply drop your full master 7 into a parting block,and copy it that way,without slicing it.Some mould makers would use algar,or wax,or plasticene to make that parting block.Alex

alex5

I cant quite see if you are using the halves or not,so please let me know,if I spoke too soon.Alex

splinterz25

Alex Willams Bro's do not make a 7 cyl dummy engine That's why I went this way 9 cyl's they are half
cyl's 1 1/8" thick total from crankcase to back of rear cyl's.

All I'm looking fore is the illusion that these are twin WASP engines.

Bruce

alex5

well,If I am thinking correctly, 1/2 of a cylinder would be 9/16,and then 1/2 of a second would be 9/16,give or take,which means,optimally 1 1/8 thickness of the dummy 14 cylinder,to create that illusion.The real question would be "if you have 1 1/4 " from the cylinder of the OS ax46 to the back of propellor washer..In mine, it is 1 5/16".That means you clean up your air intake,and make sure that you have lots of air slots around the cowling.The jpegs are not loading from RCUniverse tonight,so pardon me ,if I am not getting all of the picture.The real make or break point is if you can get your dummy to be less than 1 5/16",including cowling projection

alex5

I ,personally believe that when P&W made the various configurations of twin wasps,they used a common cylinder size,and simply added more of them,to achieve the horsepower and displacements required.Hence,whether it be a 7 or 9 cylinder,would have little bearing on the ultimate diameter,other than the obvious spacing required between cylinders.With 9 cyl,it becomes the r1800.So,you could use the one cylinder as a model,and it would fit as long as you obey the optimum spacing required for strength.When I made my masters,I simply put 7 cylinders in a ring and made the mold.
.The next question is,how much weight does the two dummies add,instead of ,lets say,a vacuformed 7 cylinder sheet,at 1/2 oz a piece?Are you still within your weight allowance?

alex5

Looking on the web now for a supply,,I understand why I had made my 7 cyl dummy myself....there are darn few available!!! I had forgotten how hard it is to get what you want,when you want it.

splinterz25

Not worried about weight.

alex5

Now,having seen those close-ups,the castings are very thin walled,so as you said ,weight isn't an issue.Including the pitch hub,how deep is it?Can you install it without losing the Hub?Alex

splinterz25

Maybe these photos will help?
I'm hoping it's deep enough and I don't have to cut the crank case to bad?

Bruce

alex5

You did a nice job of slicing those halves.You might need a solid ring retainer around the back of the crank hub,just to keep the cylinders from breaking out.

alex5

I better get to work..I had promised my nephew a Spitfire mk IXc Painting for his office wall(he flies the AWAC from Oklahoma),and I do wartime planes.Here is a sample

splinterz25

ALEX the rings come in TWO pieces I didn't cut them; there meant to be glued together; and the cyl's bottoms
slides into those holes; I changed everything to suit my needs.

Alright guys I've been getting a few questions on these dummies
How thick the plastic is, how thick the whole dummy is, and how I'll fix the cowling to fit these.

There are a few photos of the cowlings being fixed; this is the first step, I mixed epoxy w/ microballoons and used a brush to apply a small amount around the inside of the cowling.
First I rough it up w/ sandpaper then wipe it clean w/ alcohol then making sure to get some on the inside of the cowling wipe a thin bead around the whole inside; this is done w/ the cowling face down on a sheet of plastic, this should keep it nice and flat while curing.

The dummies wall thickness is 1/16" or less; the entire dummy's thickness is about
1 1/8" at the crank case center.

The other thing I did but didn't tell you about was the two hoses at the top of the engine; for these I use the left over wire harness parts that came w/ the kit.
These didn't have the correct bend in them so I lightly heat them w/ a small candle and bend them to the correct curve.

Here's a few more shots to help you understand, and if you still have questions please ask I don't mind explaining.

Bruce

alex5

Yup,Bruce.We would all be curious about the dummies,as the scale guys have all, run into the replica problems.So,the more info we have,and the experience of others,accumulates to make us better modellers and builders.I had kinda assumed .from the photos from Williams,that they would be in two halves...but I had no concrete info to say so.From your dimensions,it sounds like they fit,when I check it against my ax46

warbird_1

My Feedback: (61)

thanks for sharing your build with us. i looked at those planes many years ago. i wanted to build one but after while my memory slipped and i forgot who the plans were from . is this the version that required two q-35's ? looking forward with interest ,your build , WB_1 p.s. thank God not all scratch builders are gone :-)

splinterz25

Thank you for looking in Warbird if you have any questions feel free to ask.

Okay here's what I've come up with for the cowlings.
I also got a home depot gift card for Christmas and have been wanting a smaller drill
that can get into hard to reach places and the chuck will tighten up small enough for the tiny drill bits this is what I bought. (It will straighten out as well)
And my daughter bought me a set of pro. Chisels; I'm still waiting on my new soldering station to get here.

warbird_1

My Feedback: (61)

25 , can you tell us the specs of the plane? wingspan etc.

splinterz25

the plans were given to me from a friend they were 6' WS Plans I had them scaled to 8' WS everything else just fell where it did after making the WS 8' no one has built one at this scale that I know of and no one has just built it as a flying boat w/ OUT landing gear fixed or retractable. I opted to have the wing tip floats as my landing gear.The Fuse is just under 5' not sure what the final weight will be trying to keep her under 18lbs; the last time I weight her w/ out engines she was 12lbs. it has 2 OS .46 FX MAX TWO STROKE ENGINES

Bruce

warbird_1

My Feedback: (61)

ok , the plans i saw years ago at the lebanon ,pa swap meet called for two q-35 engines. that planes was much bigger , WB_1

splinterz25

they must have been the 1/8 scale set of plans here's the link to the site that sells quite a few vintage plan sets and the plastic cowlings canopies etc. You'll see right off the 2 sizes of PBY's
http://www.vintagercplans.com/order.htm

There really not that CO$TLY and if you cut your own pieces it's very cheap but you could have them laser cut.

Bruce

alex5

I had gone to staples,last year and inquired about large plans to be printed for an 8ft twin Otter that I made..Turned out an 8 foot by 3 ft set would be $12.95 in black and white.All you do is supply the digital source..ie USB stick.One of the elements to correct in enlarging,is the stringer slots.such a PITA..!!!

alex5

When I made my 6 foot beaver,I had the parts laser cut....to give you an idea the cost was $65 including material.Alex

splinterz25

I'll be off here for awhile I go for total shoulder replacement surgery Tuesday; I'll try and work on small details while recovering.

Bruce