Turbine powered WETJET
#27
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Location: Beeton, Ontario, CANADA
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Its a SNOW DAY!! YIPPII
My dad is still building strong at 82. Here he's finishing the wings of a 12' ws super cub.
In the photo of the wing.. I use what is called a Guide Coat. A very light dusting of a darker paint is spayed on the surface and then sanded away. What ever remains dark is a low area and must be filled with light bondo.
My dad is still building strong at 82. Here he's finishing the wings of a 12' ws super cub.
In the photo of the wing.. I use what is called a Guide Coat. A very light dusting of a darker paint is spayed on the surface and then sanded away. What ever remains dark is a low area and must be filled with light bondo.
#29
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Location: Dundas, ON, CANADA
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The bottom edges on the floats should be sharper, otherwise the water will wrap itself around the float creating unnecessary drag.
Last edited by LADDIE; 01-30-2016 at 03:26 PM. Reason: missing the space
#31
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Sorry.. forgot to post an update. After much swearing and smashing... the plugs finally released from the molds. Im very pleased with the results. Just as I wanted to keep going with the mold making process.. then work gets busier again. Figures lol
#32
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It was -40c windchill this weekend.. Never left the house
Did manage to get the molds done for the rudder. onto the ailerons today.
Im not really controlling this.. its what ever comes off the assembly line first that gets the molds lol
Sorry, not sure what game RCU is playing with the photo uploader. Click on links
Did manage to get the molds done for the rudder. onto the ailerons today.
Im not really controlling this.. its what ever comes off the assembly line first that gets the molds lol
Sorry, not sure what game RCU is playing with the photo uploader. Click on links
#33
How is the wet jet coming along?
By the way, Laddie is absolutely right. You NEED sharp edges on that hull to cast off the water and throw it out.
I would go even further and advise you to fit spray strips sticking down from the edges to throw the water down.
Your original curved edges would have drawn the water upwards along the surface and thrown it up into the air. And you know what Newton's third law says. If you throw the water upwards, it will pull the hull downwards (equal and opposites).
Spray strips turn the water spray down and help lift the hull out of the water
The photos show two versions of my water delta, 46" span with either an Irvine 53 or a 5S 700 watt brushless.
The foreplane can be used as an airbrake incidentally when tilted up to a well-stalled angle. Might be useful for a turbine version of your model to overcome the residual thrust at idle. Or do you have some other kind of airbrake?
By the way, Laddie is absolutely right. You NEED sharp edges on that hull to cast off the water and throw it out.
I would go even further and advise you to fit spray strips sticking down from the edges to throw the water down.
Your original curved edges would have drawn the water upwards along the surface and thrown it up into the air. And you know what Newton's third law says. If you throw the water upwards, it will pull the hull downwards (equal and opposites).
Spray strips turn the water spray down and help lift the hull out of the water
The photos show two versions of my water delta, 46" span with either an Irvine 53 or a 5S 700 watt brushless.
The foreplane can be used as an airbrake incidentally when tilted up to a well-stalled angle. Might be useful for a turbine version of your model to overcome the residual thrust at idle. Or do you have some other kind of airbrake?
#34
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Thanks for asking Alasdair..
It will soon be flying season here, and I needed time to build another jet for the season (xcalibur) This kinda side tracked me for a bit as there was something about the model I wasnt to keen on and decided to make a plug and molds for it.
Normally I would just pack it in for the summer with regards to the WetJet.. but I think I have all my other planes in order now and I would like to continue on with the WetJet build when time allows ( I work long days) I am also seeing the high cost of epoxy molds.. and can cut that cost in half with the larger components using polyester now that its warming up and I can work in the driveway.
Thanks for your advise on the edges.. I have sharpened all water edges as suggested by Laddie. Failing that.. I will do as you suggest. Keep in mind all this must come out of a mold, so the strips you mention would be an after attachment.
So... I haven't really stopped... just slowed down for a bit
It will soon be flying season here, and I needed time to build another jet for the season (xcalibur) This kinda side tracked me for a bit as there was something about the model I wasnt to keen on and decided to make a plug and molds for it.
Normally I would just pack it in for the summer with regards to the WetJet.. but I think I have all my other planes in order now and I would like to continue on with the WetJet build when time allows ( I work long days) I am also seeing the high cost of epoxy molds.. and can cut that cost in half with the larger components using polyester now that its warming up and I can work in the driveway.
Thanks for your advise on the edges.. I have sharpened all water edges as suggested by Laddie. Failing that.. I will do as you suggest. Keep in mind all this must come out of a mold, so the strips you mention would be an after attachment.
So... I haven't really stopped... just slowed down for a bit
#35
I know about being side-tracked.
I started building this jet seaplane in July 2013. I finished this fuselage/hull/wing stub part to exterior glassing and then got stuck on how to mount the twin fins.
Must get back to it.
It is built upside down, btw
I started building this jet seaplane in July 2013. I finished this fuselage/hull/wing stub part to exterior glassing and then got stuck on how to mount the twin fins.
Must get back to it.
It is built upside down, btw
#37
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Well it snowed today.. Back to the build
Man its funny how you don't want to do things sometimes (builders wall) but when you start, it just feels so Good!!
Really happy to be back at it. So I figured I would start with the more difficult parts.. The ailerons as they are very thin at the trailing edge. But now that the parting box is made and the plugs are in.. it wasn't all that bad. Got as far as the tooling coat. Maybe layup one side of the mold tonight.
Man its funny how you don't want to do things sometimes (builders wall) but when you start, it just feels so Good!!
Really happy to be back at it. So I figured I would start with the more difficult parts.. The ailerons as they are very thin at the trailing edge. But now that the parting box is made and the plugs are in.. it wasn't all that bad. Got as far as the tooling coat. Maybe layup one side of the mold tonight.
#38
My Feedback: (1)
Vettster, I think we all know about the "Builders Wall". I have several planes in my shop that got started and then set aside for one reason or another. My Turbine Northstar is still waiting for paint prep and finish after repair from a unscheduled incident a few years ago. I crashed my Seawind last summer (total loss). Found a new, in the box (without the box) Seawind and I'm building that to my specs. Like a new color scheme, sharpening edges and relocating the rudder and stab servos to the interior. I really dislike seeing the servos sticking out of the fuselage or wing. Even with that project, I have to commit myself to doing just a little every day so I can have the plane ready for spring.
#39
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Hi John
I only have time to build on the weekends and thats only if I have Saturday off.
Today we are cracking open the aileron molds.
First I cut off the ruff edges from the first side, and then I built a new box so that I could layup the second side. Having the walls as part of the mold really increases the strength of the mold and stops warping.
Finished last night and will open this morn
I only have time to build on the weekends and thats only if I have Saturday off.
Today we are cracking open the aileron molds.
First I cut off the ruff edges from the first side, and then I built a new box so that I could layup the second side. Having the walls as part of the mold really increases the strength of the mold and stops warping.
Finished last night and will open this morn
Last edited by Vettster; 11-27-2016 at 07:52 AM.
#43
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Thanks!
Just a couple of imperfections to correct.
It's not hard to tell the UPS guy came. They must be playing hockey with my gallon of resin. So freaking typical of UPS.. GOD I HATE THEM! But that's the carrier they use
Just a couple of imperfections to correct.
It's not hard to tell the UPS guy came. They must be playing hockey with my gallon of resin. So freaking typical of UPS.. GOD I HATE THEM! But that's the carrier they use
#49
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Wing mold all glassed up with an air connection to make the plug and parts easier to remove.
I wasn't planning on removing the plug till today...but the resin cured very fast under the heater last night so out she came.
I was all prepared for a fight...but with little effort she came right out . Needs a bit of cleaning up, an then the plug goes back in and the process is repeated.
I wasn't planning on removing the plug till today...but the resin cured very fast under the heater last night so out she came.
I was all prepared for a fight...but with little effort she came right out . Needs a bit of cleaning up, an then the plug goes back in and the process is repeated.
#50
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here we have the other side of one wing waxed and ready for the other side to be laid up. This has already happened and I popped it out today. Last night I went ahead and layed up the wing tips. This has a carbon fiber bottom and let me tell you!! Dont mess with it to much cause carbon fiber is like a thousand tiny needles. Make a template and cut it once! I have made templates and will keep them in the file for future builds. I then roll up a page from the MAAC magazine and use that to evenly distribute the cabacil into the corners. No air bubbles permitted here