Returing after 30 years w Seamster/Neptune Q's
04-30-2004, 12:37 PM
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Returing after 30 years w Seamster/Neptune Q's
Hi All:
Some Background:
This is a great site that I wish I had when I started this Hobby at the age of 8. Began with hand powered gliders, then line controlled planes, free flight and 1 channel radio controlled Futaba (one click for left and two clickes for right!). Graduated to a 4 channel trainer 30 years ago. Always flew the planes myself from day one and my trainer was still in one piece after I gave up the hobby after 10 flights. Most of my planes were scratched built.
I got hooked again 6 months ago when I flew my friends trainer on land and on water. Bought an electric Tiger Moth that I use as my trainer and now a Neptune ARF with OS 46 AX and a used Futaba T5XA. The Neptun is almost like a Seamaster (See picture at http://www.powerlinehobbies.com/). The few differences are:
No wheels.
2 servos required for aileron control. These are located under the wing and protected with a "waterproof" plastic cover. (don't know if I like that)
Wings are screwed on
Cheaper, bought it for $150.
Real poor manual. 11 page photo copy were some of the pictures are so dark that I cannot see what they try to tell me. However, I sould be able to figure it out, only so many parts to pick from.
I hope I did not bore you to death at this point. So if you are still reading, here are my questions:
BTW I have read a lot of the posts and they have been real helpful.
1) I have read some posts that flaps are a good thing, and that they work they way they are suppose to, i.e. lower stall speed. I plan to set the plane up using flaperon. Is this a good idea, or will I loose to much aileron control in a flaperon configuration?
2) I have read that it is advisable to cut off monocote where the rudder and elevator fins are to be glued on to the plane. I have never worked with monocote, and I am wondering if it peels off or if I have to heat it up to be able to remove the cut out pieces?
3) Should I convert the screw on wing attachment to a rubber band attachment?
4) The servo covers are made of plastic, and the manual suggest use of epocy glue? Is this OK?
5) The set comes with CA hinges with a modification. There are two longated cut offs that measure 3 mm. by 12 mm. I assume these are there so that the glue will be able to distribute itself better. Read the CA hinges guide and I plan to follow these, including using a pin.
6) The manual suggests a rudder throw of 55 right 40 left, elevator throw of 17 up and 12 down and elerons 12 up and 8 down. First, are these degrees or are these relative numbers that I set up on my radio?. Second, is this important?
7) Some Seamater owners have said that it has an ugly stall caracteristic at low speed (base to final) and that the plane is not a good glider. Others disagree. To me, it looks like the airfoil should allow for a fairly slow and good glide, but I don't know about the stall?
8) Am i crazy going from an electric Tiger to the Neptune?
I hope some of you will answer these so that I can put the plane together and go flying. Can't wait.
Jon
Some Background:
This is a great site that I wish I had when I started this Hobby at the age of 8. Began with hand powered gliders, then line controlled planes, free flight and 1 channel radio controlled Futaba (one click for left and two clickes for right!). Graduated to a 4 channel trainer 30 years ago. Always flew the planes myself from day one and my trainer was still in one piece after I gave up the hobby after 10 flights. Most of my planes were scratched built.
I got hooked again 6 months ago when I flew my friends trainer on land and on water. Bought an electric Tiger Moth that I use as my trainer and now a Neptune ARF with OS 46 AX and a used Futaba T5XA. The Neptun is almost like a Seamaster (See picture at http://www.powerlinehobbies.com/). The few differences are:
No wheels.
2 servos required for aileron control. These are located under the wing and protected with a "waterproof" plastic cover. (don't know if I like that)
Wings are screwed on
Cheaper, bought it for $150.
Real poor manual. 11 page photo copy were some of the pictures are so dark that I cannot see what they try to tell me. However, I sould be able to figure it out, only so many parts to pick from.
I hope I did not bore you to death at this point. So if you are still reading, here are my questions:
BTW I have read a lot of the posts and they have been real helpful.
1) I have read some posts that flaps are a good thing, and that they work they way they are suppose to, i.e. lower stall speed. I plan to set the plane up using flaperon. Is this a good idea, or will I loose to much aileron control in a flaperon configuration?
2) I have read that it is advisable to cut off monocote where the rudder and elevator fins are to be glued on to the plane. I have never worked with monocote, and I am wondering if it peels off or if I have to heat it up to be able to remove the cut out pieces?
3) Should I convert the screw on wing attachment to a rubber band attachment?
4) The servo covers are made of plastic, and the manual suggest use of epocy glue? Is this OK?
5) The set comes with CA hinges with a modification. There are two longated cut offs that measure 3 mm. by 12 mm. I assume these are there so that the glue will be able to distribute itself better. Read the CA hinges guide and I plan to follow these, including using a pin.
6) The manual suggests a rudder throw of 55 right 40 left, elevator throw of 17 up and 12 down and elerons 12 up and 8 down. First, are these degrees or are these relative numbers that I set up on my radio?. Second, is this important?
7) Some Seamater owners have said that it has an ugly stall caracteristic at low speed (base to final) and that the plane is not a good glider. Others disagree. To me, it looks like the airfoil should allow for a fairly slow and good glide, but I don't know about the stall?
8) Am i crazy going from an electric Tiger to the Neptune?
I hope some of you will answer these so that I can put the plane together and go flying. Can't wait.
Jon
04-30-2004, 07:17 PM
#2
RE: Returing after 30 years w Seamster/Neptune Q's
1. Flaps won't be necessary.
2. You really have to remove the covering where the tail surfaces attach to the fuselage. Cut very carefully with a sharp knife blade and peel the covering away.
3. Leave the bolt on wing. Good lord, does anyone other than trainer pilots use rubber bands any more.
4. Sand the contact area first and epoxy should hold. You can also use canopy glue.
5. The CA hinges will work fine. Follow the directions.
6. Your control movements sound like millimeters. 12 millimeters is about a half inch so this sounds about right.
7. I can't tell you about that specific airplane, but there are a zillion Sea Masters out there that the owners swear by and the Neptune is a clone so it can't be too bad. Take it up, throttle back to idle and do a stall check. I do this on every test flight. Make a few idle turns like a base to final and see if it stalls. Better to have it happen at altitude so you know what to watch for.
8. If you can fly, you can fly. I would have a good flier stand with you on the first flight just in case you can't find the trim or something.
2. You really have to remove the covering where the tail surfaces attach to the fuselage. Cut very carefully with a sharp knife blade and peel the covering away.
3. Leave the bolt on wing. Good lord, does anyone other than trainer pilots use rubber bands any more.
4. Sand the contact area first and epoxy should hold. You can also use canopy glue.
5. The CA hinges will work fine. Follow the directions.
6. Your control movements sound like millimeters. 12 millimeters is about a half inch so this sounds about right.
7. I can't tell you about that specific airplane, but there are a zillion Sea Masters out there that the owners swear by and the Neptune is a clone so it can't be too bad. Take it up, throttle back to idle and do a stall check. I do this on every test flight. Make a few idle turns like a base to final and see if it stalls. Better to have it happen at altitude so you know what to watch for.
8. If you can fly, you can fly. I would have a good flier stand with you on the first flight just in case you can't find the trim or something.
