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  1. #1276

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Servere drought here dams empty while on the other side of South Africa they have floods, much like Aus. The world is upside down.

  2. #1277

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Sorry to hear that. When is the rainy season normaly over for you?

  3. #1278

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Lol normal rain season should start in Feb.

  4. #1279

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    I recently purchased a second hand Seawind. Its missing the wing joiner. I assume they are not available from Tower any longer but haven't contacted them yet.

    Can some share some dimensions so I can try to get one fabricated? Or if by chance anyone happens to have an extra they want to sell let me know. Thanks!

  5. #1280

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, I may be able to help since I have a GP Seawind waiting for the water to get soft again. The following are the dimensions I got from my main spar. I hope you have a good imagination because the spar is not your typical dihedral from the spar center line.

    Overall length is 25 1/8 "
    Thickness is .105" steel with 25 lightening holes 3/8" in diameter spaced 3/4" on center, along the length of the spar and omitted in the dihedral break area.
    Spar height is .836"

    This part may be confusing but I'll try to be as clear as I can. The center 10 1/8" section is straight (no dihedral ). At the ends of the straight section is where the dihedral of 2 1/2 degrees begins. The dihedraled sections are 7 1/2" long. If you were to stand a piece of 25 1/8" long steel stock, on edge and clamp the center 10 1/8" down and bend the ends up 2 1/2 degrees you will have what the spar looks like.

    Hope this helps.
    John

  6. #1281

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    John, That information is just what I needed. Thanks!

    Are you sure its steel? Everything I've read says its aluminum.

    Are you measuring the breaks/bends at the top?

  7. #1282

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, you are correct. The material is aluminum. I measured the dimensions to the dihedral breaks along the bottom of the part.
    John

  8. #1283

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Thanks again John. One more question. Can you give me the dimension of the center section at the top?I'm assuming that when bent the bottom dimension will be the side that grows. Not that 2-1/2 degrees is that much of a bend. Isuppose also, the center section is sized for the width of the fuse and Ican get the dimension by putting the aluminum stock I get through the plane and marking were it comes out the sides.

    Another question: There is a bunch of lead shot glued into nose of my plane. Did they come this way or was this added by the previous owner?


    I'll just throw this out there... If anyone has an extra cowl they don't need let me know. The plane Ibought was setup for an ICengine and the cowl was carved out for it. I'm going electric so a fresh cowl would save me some patching. I see its one of the parts that Tower doesn't have any longer. Thanks

  9. #1284

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, I used my machinest's square and projected a line from the dihedral break point on the bottom of the spar to the top. The top line dimension is 10 1/16". As you suggested, not much difference when you consider the 2 1/2 degree angle.

    The nose of my Seawind is also full of a lead shot/epoxy slurry. It sure looks to me like it's factory installed. My plane is also second hand but the installation still suggests factory work.
    John

  10. #1285

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    John, Can I bug you for one more dimension?Can you tell me the height of the end of the joiner when is sitting vertical on a flat surface? I can layout on CAD also to find out.

    By the decimal places in your dimensions it sounds like you used a caliper for an exact reading. I did a quick search on the internet for a similar size (.105" x .836") and immediately found some .125" x .75" stock at Home Depot. To convenient. I'll have to take a look at my plane to see if that will be close enough. Perhaps building up the hieght by gluing something on the edge (lite ply or plastic). If there's not any wiggle room for the extra width I'll look at sanding. Hopefully taking .020" off won't be too bad since its aluminum. I'll keep looking online also. Now just to figure out how to get the bend just right. Thanks again.

  11. #1286

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, the joiner ends are up .400 +/- .003" with the part sitting on a sheet of glass in the installed orientation. That is with my dial caliper as was used for the sheet stock thiclness.
    John

  12. #1287

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Fantastic. Thanks again.

    I did a little more searching and it seems .125 x .75 or 1" are as close as I will get in stock material. Well, Idid find a place that sells .8" sheet material but the size was large. PerhapsI'll call a metal fabricator in town to see if they can sheer a strip for me if they have the correct thickness.


  13. #1288

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, I did a fit check of the joiner into the slot in the wing and I think you will be hard pressed to get any .125 stock into the wing. It will be a press fit at best. As for stock width, anything over the .836 + .400 is what you want. The joiner is milled flat stock with the dihedral end shape milled in. Nothing is bent.
    John

  14. #1289

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Unfortunately I don't have access to a mill. I'll have to see what Ican do to make due. Thanks again.

  15. #1290

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, in a real pinch I would try my method for putting a large squareish hole or cut out slot in a piece of plywood. First I layout the hole on the part. Then with my hand drill or drill press I drill closely spaced holes along the scrap side of the layout lines. This leaves a weakened "tear along the dotted line". With metal, you can usually break off the scrap piece. Then comes the tedious task of filing to the layout line or if you have a belt sander with an emory cloth belt you should be able to final sand the majority of the shape and finish the inaccesable inside corners with a file. If you have a band saw with a metal cutting blade you should be able to cut the part to rough shape and then file to final.
    John

  16. #1291

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Looks like I can get 1-1/2" x .125 (1/8") stock at Home Depot.  I was thinking I could use a jig saw but perhaps I could try to get a metal blade for my small band saw.  The one thing I'm not sure about is how much effort it will be to reduce the thickness by .02"  along the whole length.  I'll have to think on that. Perhaps a belt sander.

  17. #1292

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Good news Joe, you only have to thin the sections that slide into the wing. I'd do a fit check first. You may be able to get the 1/8th stock into the wing as it is. Check Sears for a metal cutting band saw blade. I used to get blades for my old 3 wheel band saw from them.
    John

  18. #1293

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Joe, you could always build the joiner like the Great Planes Spirit sailplane. Aluminum sandwiched between ply. Then sand to correct thickness.

    Just throwing it out there.

    Don
    Revver Brother #94

  19. #1294

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Has anyone been flying their Seawind lately? I just had a fantastic flight with mine; fantastic because I finally got rid of the porpoising problem that has been dogging me for years. To get rid of it I set the horizontal stab incidence at -3 deg relative to the wind and aligned the motor thrustline to the horizontal stab. I then went with a Master Airscrew 13x3x8 prop; selecting the 8" pitch primarily to avoid being in the "prop stall" regime on takeoff. I also moved the cg to 2 3/16" behind the leading edge measured with the aircraft inverted on the balancing stand. Setup as described, takeoffs are pretty much a non-event compared to previous flights.

    The one problem I have is a significant leak around the rudder post. Has anyone come up with a servo activated valve to allow one to use the bailer hole?

  20. #1295

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    That is really awesome Bob, I would like to see a video of your new and improved a/c. Lowering your incidence on the stab like that lowered the front end of the plane during takeoff and landing kindof like when I added aileron stock 1" behind the step. I am going to pull the trigger and get another Seawind this winter. Just can't stand not having one. Hell, I might even mold and cast my old one and make a carbon fiber frame for the rudder post and engine (kindof like what a T-Rex heli has for it's frame. Just a bit of what I have been thinking. I may do it, I may not. If I were retired, I would definately do it but I don't have much time between raising a teenager and work LOL!
    J
    Jeff
    The only yard sales I go to is when I pick up my plane from all over the runway!!!!
    Revver bro #191

  21. #1296

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    I'll need to see if my boat driver can do a video for me on the next outing. But based on the current weather forecast it probably won't be until the weekend.

    I check out the rudder post and it does not seem to be leaking. The other places could be the rudder servo or the aileron and flap servos. I took on quite a bit of water so I would like to solve this problem before my next outing. Anyone else have water leakage problems; if so, were did they occur and what did you do to solve them.

    Bob

  22. #1297

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Hi,

    Congrats on feeling better on getting your GP Seawind to take off from water. Ref the porpoising, after a number of seasons I found that holding full up elevator with ~75% flaps got the plane off with not much porpoising. This kept a lot of the forward hull out of the water so it could not play into the porpoising. Maybe your choice of negative stab incidence is the same idea. I posted a movie of my Seawind porpoising ~7 years ago here, (http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/H2C1YL0GNVS6KSY0)) you might enjoy this. I'm looking ahead to getting my GP seawind going next week as I will be back near water. Regards

    Tony Loomis
    AMA 76638

  23. #1298

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Great to see some Seawind "action" still going on, my dam is empty at the moment and also mid winter so iam pulling out the Os 91 fx and looking to go electric > iam thinking that less weight behing the Cg would mean i can take out some nose weight and bring total weight down.

  24. #1299

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind

    Most, if not all, of the Seawind conversions fly with no ballast in the nose. The light weight of the electric motor behind the CG plus the ability to move the batteries around to achieve the proper CG make for a lighter airplane. Getting most of the weight off the pylon minimizes the possiblity of catching a tip on takeoff or landing; compare the weight of your .91 plus fuel to the weight of a good brushless motor (typically 300 gms.). One key issue is to move the CG back by about 25mm. Essentially the CG of the electric should be the same as the glow version WITH a full tank of fuel.

  25. #1300

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    RE: Great Planes Seawind


    ORIGINAL: Bob93447

    Most, if not all, of the Seawind conversions fly with no ballast in the nose. The light weight of the electric motor behind the CG plus the ability to move the batteries around to achieve the proper CG make for a lighter airplane. Getting most of the weight off the pylon minimizes the possiblity of catching a tip on takeoff or landing; compare the weight of your .91 plus fuel to the weight of a good brushless motor (typically 300 gms.). One key issue is to move the CG back by about 25mm. Essentially the CG of the electric should be the same as the glow version WITH a full tank of fuel.
    Thanx for the advice, will keep you posted


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