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Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

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Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Old 06-04-2007, 03:01 PM
  #51  
domatic
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Ebay or tower hobby

269.00

LANIER MARINER 40 MKII ARF SEAPLANE SEA PLANE
Old 06-05-2007, 09:09 PM
  #52  
LMProd
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

I just finished mounting a Saito 65 on a MK 2. Will test fly the plane this friday. The cowl and the short throw to the throttle took some time but it works. Saito is a little lighter than the OS 70. Pulls a 13x6 prop.

Gary
Old 06-10-2007, 04:20 PM
  #53  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Mariner - Maiden flight report.

Engine: Saito 65 with 1x 6 prop.

The engine has plenty of power, flew at 1/2 throttle. Plane flew great on several flights except the last one. Lake was getting choppy. Mariner took off fine but started to porpoise, flying unstable as if it was tail heavy then flew well then tail heavy. Successfully landed and some water inside. The plane was balanced level, so a shift in weight would make a big difference. We think the water moving around shifting the CD. That was the last flight of the day.

I suspect the water came it through the wings leading edge; I used wing saddle foam around the wing except there. Also plan to use wire in the control rods, too much flex is also suspect.

Overall good flying plane. I hope my fixes remedy the

Gary
Old 06-10-2007, 07:30 PM
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Erratic behavior was definitely the result of water inside changing the CG. Sealing the leading edge will solve that problem. Also, keep an eye down near the tail. If the covering leaks a bit there water can find it's way up into the fuse on takeoff. Just make sure the edges are sealed.

Enjoy!
Old 06-23-2007, 10:04 AM
  #55  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Wow,
Was just looking to see if anyone had the problem I'm having and here it is. Have the Mariner, flew 5 flights A OK, then the last 3 flights I lost it. On one, 2nd takeoff it pitched up 60 degrees and stalled and did damage. On last week's flight, lost it on 3rd takeoff, was flying real erratic and touchy, suspected radio/battery. They checked and I did notice when I hauled it out of water the hill was full of water. I did a good CG check last yesterday and found she was out of balance as batteries shifted in silicone gel before they set. Last nite I decided to try her again, wow, touchy hairy flight, barely got her back. I decided to taxi her around, after 5minutes I taxied past close and saw hull was real low in water, she was taking on water inside. I had always suspected water was running around inside shifting the CG. I'm now today chaulking wing root again, I have packed rear push rod tubes in Vaseline. I guess the little and i mean little crack/gap under wing root must really be taking in water, then the balse gets wet and heavy. I'm ready to throw this away, tonight will be another try. It's amazing how much of a hit she takes though in water, I've found a vertical dive is better then a less then 90' angle. I had thought the control throws were way to much but I'm sure it's water inside cause she flew nice first few flights. After seeing thsi on 1st flight i fell in love with the hull design but now am turning towards floats. Maybe I'l just pack roots with plumbers putty!
Old 06-23-2007, 11:01 AM
  #56  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

strange never had any water in mine, that would certainly throw off your CG and make for crappy flight. I doubt any water is coming in via the wings and control horns.. those are pretty high off the water, are you flying in choppy water? i would even think about sending it back for another one as its prob a crack int he fiberglass or something more major if shes filling up with water..
-DOMATIC
Old 06-23-2007, 11:45 AM
  #57  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

i've had it in nice calm water on all 3 times, i looked at the hull and everything for cracks and wings are dry. The last 3 flights were really touchy. Last nite i thought at one point it was gonna just dive in from a 100'. This is interesting, yesterday I balanced it real good on GP balancer device. It flew wacky and i darn near lost later in the evening. Today I put her on balance and she's way tail heavy..........only because the inside hull balsa wood is wet......it's now tail heavy as hell cause it's damp. I rebalanced it in damp condition as i am going to fly it in a few hours with wings sealed better. I would guess last nite after that flight and a few minutes of taxi that i drained maybe 4-6oz of water out of her.........it certainly would make a difference with that running back and forth over a 16" length of hull.....plus wet heavy balsa. Whatever it sure makes me gun shy to fly it everytime. I'm thinkin of maybe a real runny epoxy mix and coating inside of hull. Whatever though the last 3 flights have been real exciting....2 were crashes and last nite i survived one out of 3. Oh well..............water is always a challenge to any machine.
Old 06-23-2007, 11:57 AM
  #58  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

If the hull isn't cracked then most of the water is probably coming in through the joint at the front of the wing/back of the windshield. It is hard to seal that particular area, but packaging tape over the joint seems to do a pretty good job. Just be sure the area is dry before you apply the tape.
Old 06-23-2007, 08:50 PM
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

well...........rebalanced for the heavy wet belly balse............took it to the lake tonight..............was sure i had it fixed......taxied it for 3min till she was low in water.........held her up and water poured out of tail....then i saw it.............real fuselage belly seam covering is loose...........looks tight and fine but actually is loose and sucks water right in.........wow........i almost flew her again. at least i know what it is now.
Old 06-24-2007, 07:59 AM
  #60  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Thought I mentioned the rear end. Check where the side covering overlaps the bottom covering and the fin on the bottom. And consider this --- on an ordinary covering job we always cover the bottom first then overlap the side covering over the bottom. This makes the job look good. But on a hull like the Mariner or a float, I do it the other way covering the side first, then overalapping the bottom covering over that. Yes, it leaves a small seam running along the side but it's much more resistant to peeling loose from the force of the water.
Old 10-04-2007, 08:15 PM
  #61  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Maiden Flight Report

Engine OS .55 two stroke, 12x6 prop

Took a couple of weeks of on and off again building and the plane came together very well. No surprises with the build. The covering was the best ARF I have had so far. Not one wrinkle. Everything looked good and balanced out with the battery about 2 inches short of being all the way in the nose.

Set the rates as described in the manual, then set the low rates at about -25%. Exponential of -35%.

Taxi was easy. Virtually no wind tonight.

Take off was slightly harder than anticipated. You have to use aileron to get the wings level as you gain speed. Once the wings are level and you have good speed, the plane lifts well with a little ripple on the water. The last flight the lake had calmed completely down and was like glass. It was hard to get the plane to break the seal of the water, even with the additions on the bottom of the hull. Like the manual said, those hull lifters are a must.

Once in the air, took a couple of clicks of right and a couple clicks of up, and the plane flew very true. No problems.

Aileron rolls were nice rate, loops no problem, did a hammer head stall turn with no problem however when the nose came around the plane wanted to go slightly inverted most likely due to the engine being mounted above the center line of the plane.

Now for the fun part... landings. It was a dream. I had a plane with floats and compared to that, this is so easy. All flights tonight landed exactly the same. Just a slight bounce, more like a skip and then the plane settled and on the water and coasted to a beautiful gliding stop. No issues what so ever with landing.

I didn't do anything special with the wing saddle and I had no water issues in the hull after 3 consecutive flights tonight.

Great flying plane, looks great in the air at the lake, and a dream to land. Take offs are just a little harder than anticipated with needing to control wing level and make sure to get plenty of speed to break free of the water.

Really fun!!!!!
Old 10-07-2007, 10:46 AM
  #62  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

After many flights and a few crashes due to water coming in though seams I decided to slow her down a bit. I added some fixed slats, stall fences and cut the full length aeileron and made half a fixed flap. I test flew last week and really liked the change. The long takeoff run is gone and eliminates the hull water slapping. It flys much slower also but does have a higher descent rate with the power off. My next mod this week is to slightly extend the fixed flap area.
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:36 PM
  #63  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Cool mods
Old 10-29-2007, 07:24 PM
  #64  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

After reading all these posts, I couldn't resist. Ordered one from Tower tonite. I have an unemployed OS 55AX that's going in it.
Old 11-02-2007, 10:10 AM
  #65  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Wow! Big improvement over some previous Lanier ARFs. Better covering job even than on my old (defunct) Shrike 40 ARF, and it was pretty nice. Very nicely thought out design. I decided to go with this so I can get used to high mounted engines before I attempt either another ARROW or maybe a NORTHSTAR. I note that Lanier put 3.5 degrees of upthrust on the engine. I can't wait to observe the flight characteristics. I suspect that an equivalent amount of downthrust would cure any thrust/pitch coupling issues on the ARROW. Don't know about the NORTHSTAR.

Note: the problems mentioned the Mariner kit in this thread are well covered in the instruction manual. A big warning right on the first page about the covering not sticking well to the fiberglass bottom and it's the owner's responsibility to keep the edges sealed. That's a euphemism for a potential water leak if I ever saw one. Then there's the "keep the air speed up, no stall landing here" warning. Typical symmetrical airfoil- too slow=tip stall.

What size prop will fit on this critter? I'd like to use a 12x6 on my OS 55, but don't know if there's room. I might have to use the 11x7 3 blade. The pictures indicate plenty of room for about any size prop, but I'd appreciate knowing.

Old 11-02-2007, 05:50 PM
  #66  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

I made a pink foam cradle for the hull, complete with tie down cleats, and a trial fit of the engine pod made me realize that there is plenty of room for even a 13" prop.

I have some ideas on how to keep all the water out of this puppy. Stay tuned.
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Old 11-02-2007, 08:45 PM
  #67  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

i just saw that Toer has them on sale for $40 off.

i may have to get me one

Jon
Old 11-02-2007, 09:05 PM
  #68  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Yeah, it was a deal. With the $25 super saver discount, the bird was only $225.
Old 11-04-2007, 04:30 PM
  #69  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

This bird is such a great deal, and the quality is so good, that I know a lot of people are going to want one.

Thought I'd go ahead and start listing all the mistakes in the assembly manual so that those with less experience won't end up making a bunch of expensive mistakes.

Step 12: They say: get a 4" pushrod for the ailerons. I say: you have to use one of the 6" rods. (There's only 4 of the 4 inchers. They are all used on the elevator/rudder pushrod assemblies.)
They say: there's a clevis on both ends. I say: there aint enough clevises, you have to use a quicklock (see pic) and bend the pushrod 90 deg where it goes in the servo arm. (There's quicklocks in the kit, and they are not mentioned in the book.)
They say: turn the servo tray around from the normal position, so that the wire lead ends up aft. I say: if you do that, the recommended 6" servo extension may not make it to the hole in the wing where it's supposed to exit, depending of course on the length of the lead on your servo. I put mine in the normal position so that the lead is in front.
Step 14; (Float assembly) They say: The long leg of the wire strut will protrude through the float slightly. I say: The side of the float opposite the hole is solid fiberglass. I had to cut about 1/4" off the long part of the strut so that it would go in all the way and not knock an unnecessary hole in the float. Also, the holes in each float are drilled at different angles, so you have to bend the struts to get everything to line up nicely.
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:50 PM
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Step 19: (Joining the wing halves.) This calls for mixing up 2 ounces of epoxy. I think meant to say 1/2 oz. I used a bit less than that.
They also say to dump some epoxy down each joiner pocket in the wing. I didn't do this, as it appears the joiner bottoms out in the pocket, and any epoxy down there would prevent the joiner from going in all the way.
Old 11-05-2007, 11:51 AM
  #71  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

It is very important that the joiner be glued to the spars at the outer ends of the joiner. The center is not as important. The idea behind the method described by the instructions is that the epoxy you put in the closed pocket is forced up around the joiner as you push it in and fills the gaps. You should put most of the epoxy in the pocket and only enough on the joiner to wet the surface.

If you put the epoxy only on the joiner, most of it well be scraped off as you insert the joiner into the pocket, and you will not get a good joint at the outer ends where it is needed most.

Jim
Old 11-05-2007, 02:09 PM
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Jim:

That's what I did. I slathered a goodly amount on the very ends of the joiner before slipping them into the wings. The reason I didn't pour it in there as they suggest is that the length of the joiner exactly matches the length of the pockets in both wings. (I verified this by drawing a centerline on the joiner and then noting that it exactly lined up with each root rib when inserted into the wing halves.)
Old 11-05-2007, 02:49 PM
  #73  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Yes, that is as it should be. The joiner is not a real tight fit and as you push the joiner in, the epoxy is squeezed up through the gaps around the joiner and extruded out around it. This is the only way to ensure that the ends of the joiner get glued properly to the spars. Needless to say, you have to use an epoxy that will stay liquid long enough to work the joiner in. You can't use 5 minute epoxy to do that. It would begin to set before you could seat the joiner.

Jim
Old 11-07-2007, 01:46 PM
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

After reading so much about the elevator joiner, I took a real close look and discovered that the covering was not sealed down well. That made it easy to remove covering from the center, wrap the whole thing in fairly heavy glass cloth and epoxy it.
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:55 PM
  #75  
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Default RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII ARF 62"

Progress to this point is:

1. Installed rudder/elevator servos and pushrods. Set the elevator to 3/4" travel and rudder to 1 1/2" per booklet. Sealed around the pushrod tubes with GE silicone. Also, put a coating of OMC waterproof bearing grease on the pushrods before installing them into the tubes. This to keep water out. (I had a trainer with floats a couple years back. Spray from the floats would get on the exposed pushrods, then run down them inside the fuse when the nose was down and drip right into the servos.) The grease adds a little drag, but short of building waterproof boxes and using bellows seals on the pushrods, this is the best way to keep water out. I did the waterproof box/bellows routine on my 4* floatplane, and that procedure was a PITA. Also ironed down all the covering seams I could find on the bottom and sides of the hull. After ironing, went along each seam with a some TopFlite trim solvent on a q tip. Did this around each of the black trim stripes, fore and aft, as the coverers used those to hide the seams where the orange and white join.


2. I've studied a lot on the cowl/engine mounting/fuel system/throttle linkage arrangement in the engine pod. A few things I've noted:

My cowl is tighter at the aft end than the one shown in the booklet. The farthest it will slip on over the pod is about 1/4". This makes my spinner backplate distance about 5 and 1/4", compared to the called for 5". No problem, the further forward that engine is translates to less ballast in the bow.

I really don't want the engine hanging on that flexible plastic mount so far from the firewall. I anticipate lots of vibration if I do that. So, I'm using the OS aluminum mount for the 55 AX, and I'll have to make a 1 and 1/4" thick plywood shim, laminated from two pieces of 1/2" and a piece of 1/4". (I have a OS aluminum mount for a 15CVA in a Sig Wonder, and complete absence of vibration compared to other mounts is the first thing I noticed when I cranked it up the first time.)

An upright mounting for the engine is going to result in the carb spray bar being slightly above the top of the fuel tank. That, combined with the distance between the tank and the engine, is a guarantee of poor fuel feeding. I'm going to mount the engine sideways, so that the spray bar will align with the centerline of the tank, as per OS instructions.

The throttle linkage setup is all but impossible to modify for a sideways engine mount, so I'm going to stick a third servo in betwen the elevator and rudder servos, and run a flex cable up the back of the pylon, then through the bottom of the pod and from there forward through the bottom part of the firewall to line up with the throttle lever. The pylon already has a groove in the back of it that nicely accepts the cable housing. (I've clamped it in position so the routing may be seen.)
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