Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
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Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Good morning gentlemen!
My first building thread here on RCU... quite excited [8D] !
I was doing a research both here and on the web about modeled CL-215s and 415s and I came across Bernard Dumas' site: not only it was dedicated to some of the available built and flown RC CL-x15s out there but it also provided free plans for a 1/12ish version!!!
I downloaded the plans, checked the specs of the model
http://bernard.dumas.chez-alice.fr/caracteristiques.htm
and... I liked it! I decided to give it a try and to document it since no one seems to know these plans (plus it isn't an usual modeling subject).
At roughly 86" span the model is big without being -that- big (IOW, a problem... at least for me and/or wife - parents - etc.). Some of the nice features of these plans are:
- fuse is scale-built, with around 50 formers / bulkheads and plenty of room inside; it resemble a Palmer plans structure, without being so complicated (thanks to the square section); light and strong in the end;
- fin and attached stab are removable; they can be swapped between fuses (in case one gets damaged) and ease up transport; be aware that the tail group of this plane is very big (especially the fin and rudder) to improve low speed handling (real thing);
- "it comes" with a construction manual that surely helps here and there
http://bernard.dumas.chez-alice.fr/Atelier1.htm
- plans include drawings for both a fixed and working (pneumatic) main gear: it's up to everyone to push it as far as desired!
I'm about to begin Step 3 now, but I got a lot of pictures I'd like to include to document the building and share some tips /ask for advises.
Hope you'll enjoy the topic as much as I'm enjoying building this model!
My first building thread here on RCU... quite excited [8D] !
I was doing a research both here and on the web about modeled CL-215s and 415s and I came across Bernard Dumas' site: not only it was dedicated to some of the available built and flown RC CL-x15s out there but it also provided free plans for a 1/12ish version!!!
I downloaded the plans, checked the specs of the model
http://bernard.dumas.chez-alice.fr/caracteristiques.htm
and... I liked it! I decided to give it a try and to document it since no one seems to know these plans (plus it isn't an usual modeling subject).
At roughly 86" span the model is big without being -that- big (IOW, a problem... at least for me and/or wife - parents - etc.). Some of the nice features of these plans are:
- fuse is scale-built, with around 50 formers / bulkheads and plenty of room inside; it resemble a Palmer plans structure, without being so complicated (thanks to the square section); light and strong in the end;
- fin and attached stab are removable; they can be swapped between fuses (in case one gets damaged) and ease up transport; be aware that the tail group of this plane is very big (especially the fin and rudder) to improve low speed handling (real thing);
- "it comes" with a construction manual that surely helps here and there
http://bernard.dumas.chez-alice.fr/Atelier1.htm
- plans include drawings for both a fixed and working (pneumatic) main gear: it's up to everyone to push it as far as desired!
I'm about to begin Step 3 now, but I got a lot of pictures I'd like to include to document the building and share some tips /ask for advises.
Hope you'll enjoy the topic as much as I'm enjoying building this model!
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Our club has two CL-215's, both different scales. One is the same size you're looking at, his is a kit (don't know which one) and the other one is a scratch-built with a 96 inch wingspan, done from measurements and photos of a full scale -215 at our local airport (N.C. Forest Service owns one). The scratch-built one incorporates a tank which holds just over a gallon and can be dumped in-flight, and theoretically can be filled on the fly, like the full scale (he hasn't tried it yet).
In both cases, the planes fly fairly well, but are extremely pitch sensitive due to a fairly short fuse (short tail moment) and the large tail surface. I can't remember what the plane the size of yours uses for power; the scratch-built one uses two RCV 90's turning 15-10 3-blade props. It weighs 23 pounds when filled with water. Good luck on your build, show lots of pics!
In both cases, the planes fly fairly well, but are extremely pitch sensitive due to a fairly short fuse (short tail moment) and the large tail surface. I can't remember what the plane the size of yours uses for power; the scratch-built one uses two RCV 90's turning 15-10 3-blade props. It weighs 23 pounds when filled with water. Good luck on your build, show lots of pics!
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Hi every one,
When I created my website I couldn't image that so many people would be interested in building a CL215 scale model.
I'm happy to see that this twin engine is so popular !
But before beginning to build it, you must keep in mind that is requires many hours of works (at least 9 months), and that it is not a good choice for a beginner.
I studied a pneumatically operated landing gear and started to have some parts machined but the guy who did this job for me never supplied all of them, that why I designed a non-retractable version easier to manufacture with usual tools.
I created this site in march 2001, and to answer a frequently ashed question, I do not intend to translate it in English as I am now very busy with other projects and have no time to do it.
Wishing you a lot of success
Bernard
When I created my website I couldn't image that so many people would be interested in building a CL215 scale model.
I'm happy to see that this twin engine is so popular !
But before beginning to build it, you must keep in mind that is requires many hours of works (at least 9 months), and that it is not a good choice for a beginner.
I studied a pneumatically operated landing gear and started to have some parts machined but the guy who did this job for me never supplied all of them, that why I designed a non-retractable version easier to manufacture with usual tools.
I created this site in march 2001, and to answer a frequently ashed question, I do not intend to translate it in English as I am now very busy with other projects and have no time to do it.
Wishing you a lot of success
Bernard
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
OK then. Let's start. I'll follow construction as described in the "manual".
Let's deal with the MAIN GEAR BOX (MGB) or casson de train principal. Refer to the pics (from left to right):
- cut bulkheads C31 and C32 out of 3mm (1/8") lite-ply; I got bulkhead C20 cut at the same time;
- cut main gear reinforcements out of 5mm birch ply and glue them in place with epoxy + good clamping;
Let's deal with the MAIN GEAR BOX (MGB) or casson de train principal. Refer to the pics (from left to right):
- cut bulkheads C31 and C32 out of 3mm (1/8") lite-ply; I got bulkhead C20 cut at the same time;
- cut main gear reinforcements out of 5mm birch ply and glue them in place with epoxy + good clamping;
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
- drill pilot holes in C32;
- align C31 and C32 along their top edges and drill holes through both of them at the same time; keeping them aligned while doing so is crucial as it is drilling perfectly vertical holes;
- epoxy the cross-sectional element to C31 (oppposite side of gear reinforcements) making sure it is aligned and vertical;
- align C31 and C32 along their top edges and drill holes through both of them at the same time; keeping them aligned while doing so is crucial as it is drilling perfectly vertical holes;
- epoxy the cross-sectional element to C31 (oppposite side of gear reinforcements) making sure it is aligned and vertical;
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
- cut and epoxy sides to C31; without any notch it may be tricky to get them aligned and vertical, do one at the time for grater accuracy;
* notice I made the sides longer than required by mistake (red crosses): they'll be cut later on;
** notice that the holes on the sides do not line up (more clear on other pics as well);
- epoxy the last 2 cross-sectional reinforcements;
* notice I made the sides longer than required by mistake (red crosses): they'll be cut later on;
** notice that the holes on the sides do not line up (more clear on other pics as well);
- epoxy the last 2 cross-sectional reinforcements;
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
- insert metal pins into C32 before epoxying it to C31: they'll help keeping the two aligned!
*pins should be tight inside the holes rather than loose; exercise care and patience in "introducing" them in with a hammer; this way the bulkheads will line up perfectly and stay in place during the curing time;
- epoxy C32 to C31, aid adhesion with weights;
*pins should be tight inside the holes rather than loose; exercise care and patience in "introducing" them in with a hammer; this way the bulkheads will line up perfectly and stay in place during the curing time;
- epoxy C32 to C31, aid adhesion with weights;
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
(- I had to remove the excess length from the sides ;-) );
- remove the pins with care and patience and... a pair of pliers;
- contemplate your box!
Mine weighted 135 grams once finished (pins removed).
- remove the pins with care and patience and... a pair of pliers;
- contemplate your box!
Mine weighted 135 grams once finished (pins removed).
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Thanks Pedro! Glad you like it!
Let's get on then. We're going to build the nose/cabin section, structure avant, now:
- you need bulkheads C20 (previuosly cut) and C11, cabin floor, nose gear well sides (2) and upper and lower keel; get them cut out of 3mm lite-ply;
- epoxy the nose gear reinforcements (5mm birch) to the well sides; clamp while curing;
- you may aid yourself while building if you'd include some strategically placed notches here and there (those highlighted in the green circles are the one I made);
Let's get on then. We're going to build the nose/cabin section, structure avant, now:
- you need bulkheads C20 (previuosly cut) and C11, cabin floor, nose gear well sides (2) and upper and lower keel; get them cut out of 3mm lite-ply;
- epoxy the nose gear reinforcements (5mm birch) to the well sides; clamp while curing;
- you may aid yourself while building if you'd include some strategically placed notches here and there (those highlighted in the green circles are the one I made);
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
- drill pilot holes in one of the 2 nose gear well sides,
- align them along their top edge and
- drill both at the same time;
- epoxy to underside of cockpit floor;
- align them along their top edge and
- drill both at the same time;
- epoxy to underside of cockpit floor;
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
**some guesswork was needed with C11 fit into cockpit floor:
- I cut notches into cockpit floor for C11; obviously C11 won't slide to that notches so I had to split it in halves (top and bottom);
- I left the notches for the upper half since the lower one has a lot of gluing surface upper doesn't.
- epoxy lower C11 to the underside of the cockpit floor;
- epoxy upper C11 in place; everything should be square (always);
- I cut notches into cockpit floor for C11; obviously C11 won't slide to that notches so I had to split it in halves (top and bottom);
- I left the notches for the upper half since the lower one has a lot of gluing surface upper doesn't.
- epoxy lower C11 to the underside of the cockpit floor;
- epoxy upper C11 in place; everything should be square (always);
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Here I am again to report about 3rd step: building the cabin section, la coque.
Basically I refer to the -cabin- as to the section that connects the two previous sub-assemblies (main gear box and nose section).
The -link- between them is the cabin floor. It is a rather large 3mm lite-ply rectangle that gave me some thinking...
1- If you take a look at the pics you'll notice that it features two openings where it meets bulkhead C31: they provide access to the main gear nuts. They also weaken those spots highlighted by the red circles: I suggest you cut the floor to the green line and enlarge the holes in a second time;
2- to aid the assembling, I placed some notches on both the fwd end of the floor and C20; you'll bless them later on. I did nothing to C31 but I do suggest, think ahead...
3- I had to fight some degree of warping on such a large wood piece: I epoxied some diagonal bracing to level the floor and that was all it was needed to get a straighter assembly.
Basically I refer to the -cabin- as to the section that connects the two previous sub-assemblies (main gear box and nose section).
The -link- between them is the cabin floor. It is a rather large 3mm lite-ply rectangle that gave me some thinking...
1- If you take a look at the pics you'll notice that it features two openings where it meets bulkhead C31: they provide access to the main gear nuts. They also weaken those spots highlighted by the red circles: I suggest you cut the floor to the green line and enlarge the holes in a second time;
2- to aid the assembling, I placed some notches on both the fwd end of the floor and C20; you'll bless them later on. I did nothing to C31 but I do suggest, think ahead...
3- I had to fight some degree of warping on such a large wood piece: I epoxied some diagonal bracing to level the floor and that was all it was needed to get a straighter assembly.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Note that the bracing should not interfere with a stringer that runs along the edges (first pic).
- The only other lite-ply part is former C28;
- formers C21 to C25 (NOT C21 to C24 as per plans) and C26 to C30 (except C28) are 3mm balsa and are almost the same: C21 to C25 have a top edge, others don't.
- The only other lite-ply part is former C28;
- formers C21 to C25 (NOT C21 to C24 as per plans) and C26 to C30 (except C28) are 3mm balsa and are almost the same: C21 to C25 have a top edge, others don't.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Building over the plans to ensure alignment:
- epoxy floor to C20 first (easier thanks to the notches), then
- epoxy floor to C31 (harder due to the 3 separate edges and lack of notches);
- reinforce both joint with some triangle-stock.
Note both bracing and triangle stock do not interfere with the stringer location.
- epoxy floor to C20 first (easier thanks to the notches), then
- epoxy floor to C31 (harder due to the 3 separate edges and lack of notches);
- reinforce both joint with some triangle-stock.
Note both bracing and triangle stock do not interfere with the stringer location.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Next are the cabin sides: easier done than said. Really.
They consist of the vertical former elements connected with 5x5mm balsa and 5x10mm pine/spruce stringers.
*I didn't find any 5x10mm stock up here so I had to make my own. Plus, the higher ones are longer than stock so you'll have to splice them to adequate length.
Always build the side laying over the plans to get everything aligned. I had my copyshop mirror the plan to get the other side.
That's all for the moment. Thanks for your time.
They consist of the vertical former elements connected with 5x5mm balsa and 5x10mm pine/spruce stringers.
*I didn't find any 5x10mm stock up here so I had to make my own. Plus, the higher ones are longer than stock so you'll have to splice them to adequate length.
Always build the side laying over the plans to get everything aligned. I had my copyshop mirror the plan to get the other side.
That's all for the moment. Thanks for your time.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
ORIGINAL: khodges
I can't remember what the plane the size of yours uses for power; the scratch-built one uses two RCV 90's turning 15-10 3-blade props. It weighs 23 pounds when filled with water. Good luck on your build, show lots of pics!
I can't remember what the plane the size of yours uses for power; the scratch-built one uses two RCV 90's turning 15-10 3-blade props. It weighs 23 pounds when filled with water. Good luck on your build, show lots of pics!
they seem small enough to fit inside the cowls and large enough to lift it. Moreover they have some -reliability enhancers- such as a fuel pump
and a slide-valve carburetor.
What do you think (Bernard)? Should I stick with 90s if I want to use 4-strokers?
Bernard: could you help me with the fiberglass parts? Do you have any plug you can use to make them for me? If you don't have the time we could still find a solution. I will pay for them of course. That would save me a lot of time.
Same as above for the windshield: yours looks awesome, is it aluminum or just painted silver? It's great!
Thank you!
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
The front of the 5x10 stringer needs to be bent in order to sit in its notch on bulkhead C20. Instead of bending such a hard wooden stringer I removed a small wedge-shaped portion of the stringer just in front of former C21; bending it was then a breeze! Fill the cut with some wood and gap with CA.
Same as above for the same stringer just past C31.
Same as above for the same stringer just past C31.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
Before finishing the front section I need to figure out nose wheel installation and operation (steering and retraction): I ordered my Eurokit cylinder and air system and I'll get them by the end of the week or the beginning of the next one.
OK, nose-gear retraction won't be scale, too hard...
In the meantime I started the tail section.
You need:
- the 20mm balsa block that supports the fin,
- (2) 5mm birch-ply discs (1" dia) and
- the 5mm birch-ply support that holds the tubing used to center the fin and hold it in place during flight.
I also cut some notches into the 10x10 stock that serves as the aft edge of the fuse: those notches prooved really useful in keeping the stringers in place (without gluing) while putting formers in place.
OK, nose-gear retraction won't be scale, too hard...
In the meantime I started the tail section.
You need:
- the 20mm balsa block that supports the fin,
- (2) 5mm birch-ply discs (1" dia) and
- the 5mm birch-ply support that holds the tubing used to center the fin and hold it in place during flight.
I also cut some notches into the 10x10 stock that serves as the aft edge of the fuse: those notches prooved really useful in keeping the stringers in place (without gluing) while putting formers in place.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
I prepared formers from C33 to C42: cut all the elements and assemble them over the plans.
I then realized I could give them a little more support by adding cross-sectional elements at mid-height (where the 5x5mm stringer sits); C33, C34 and C35 were also reinforced at the top 'cauz the U-shape seemed a little too weak to me. Note that in the picture the reinforcement elements are added while notches still needed to be cut.
I then realized I could give them a little more support by adding cross-sectional elements at mid-height (where the 5x5mm stringer sits); C33, C34 and C35 were also reinforced at the top 'cauz the U-shape seemed a little too weak to me. Note that in the picture the reinforcement elements are added while notches still needed to be cut.
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215
I wanted to place everything in place without gluing anything at all... but that was not practical.
Building over the plans,
- CA 10x5mm top stringers to balsa block (ply discs face the plan!!!);
- place 5x5mm stringers in place without gluing them;
- install every former checking it is square and CAing it to stringers.
Building over the plans,
- CA 10x5mm top stringers to balsa block (ply discs face the plan!!!);
- place 5x5mm stringers in place without gluing them;
- install every former checking it is square and CAing it to stringers.