Seamaster Plans
#3
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RE: Seamaster Plans
OK, I got silly before.
Bigger airplanes fly better. Especially if they are light.
This is your big chance to improve on the design, too.
Last Seamaster KIT I saw had a cardboard tube for a leading edge. I thought that was kinda ill-advised on a plane to fly from WATER. I asked my buddy Ralph if the wing was supposed to be covered with tissue paper and wallpaper paste...but back to the point, use stuff that won't dissolve instantly in water. Look at some thinwall PVC tube at Home Deepo if you want to use a tube leading edge. Do try to keep the scale diameter when you select the tubing. Pick stuff lighter than cardboard.
Also, you don't have to linearly scale EVERYTHING up. Keep the wing ribs as 1/16, Keep the fuselage sides the same thickness. Reinforce where the stresses will be greater but don't thicken anything unless it carries a load. Keep the original spacing on the wing ribs- use more. The places that DO need to be thicker are the spars, the pylon, the vertical stab (Because it carries the T-Tail) , and the ply floor of the hull in front of the step.
Paint the inside and the outside of as much of the fuselage as you can with something to waterproof the balsa. I like Water-Based Polyurethane varnish.
If I were building a Seamaster I would design out the S-Shaped nyrod elevator linkage. Hobby-Lobby has control horns for T-Tails that let the nyrod come straight up from the bottom so there is only one bend. Th fewer bends in a nyrod, the more precise it is. Go to hobby-Lobby.com and search for GR1133 Elevator Horn for T-Tails ..... $ 4.40
IN STOCK
1-1/8" long horn used for elevators on T-Tail airplanes where the elevator pushrod runs vertically up inside or along the vertical fin. The long length reduces elevator throw in elevator-sensitive T-Tails.
Maybe you will find these comments helpful. Besides, if global warming melts the polar ice caps, there's just more places to fly RC Seaplanes- WooHoo!
Bigger airplanes fly better. Especially if they are light.
This is your big chance to improve on the design, too.
Last Seamaster KIT I saw had a cardboard tube for a leading edge. I thought that was kinda ill-advised on a plane to fly from WATER. I asked my buddy Ralph if the wing was supposed to be covered with tissue paper and wallpaper paste...but back to the point, use stuff that won't dissolve instantly in water. Look at some thinwall PVC tube at Home Deepo if you want to use a tube leading edge. Do try to keep the scale diameter when you select the tubing. Pick stuff lighter than cardboard.
Also, you don't have to linearly scale EVERYTHING up. Keep the wing ribs as 1/16, Keep the fuselage sides the same thickness. Reinforce where the stresses will be greater but don't thicken anything unless it carries a load. Keep the original spacing on the wing ribs- use more. The places that DO need to be thicker are the spars, the pylon, the vertical stab (Because it carries the T-Tail) , and the ply floor of the hull in front of the step.
Paint the inside and the outside of as much of the fuselage as you can with something to waterproof the balsa. I like Water-Based Polyurethane varnish.
If I were building a Seamaster I would design out the S-Shaped nyrod elevator linkage. Hobby-Lobby has control horns for T-Tails that let the nyrod come straight up from the bottom so there is only one bend. Th fewer bends in a nyrod, the more precise it is. Go to hobby-Lobby.com and search for GR1133 Elevator Horn for T-Tails ..... $ 4.40
IN STOCK
1-1/8" long horn used for elevators on T-Tail airplanes where the elevator pushrod runs vertically up inside or along the vertical fin. The long length reduces elevator throw in elevator-sensitive T-Tails.
Maybe you will find these comments helpful. Besides, if global warming melts the polar ice caps, there's just more places to fly RC Seaplanes- WooHoo!