Fully amphibious
01-04-2010, 07:13 PM
#1
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Fully amphibious
Just a question...
Is it possible to make a large, fully amphibious RC model without too much sealing work around the retract points?
I ask because one of my dream projects is to do a somewhat large (26cc gas) PBY-5a Catalila. The 5a is an amphibious PBY, and the nose wheel of it goes out at the bottom of the hull, and I don't know how much sealing is needed with that gear door. My thought is that the air pocket in the retract bay will keep most water out, but I don't know what it will do during takeoff and landing.
Any thoughts?
Is it possible to make a large, fully amphibious RC model without too much sealing work around the retract points?
I ask because one of my dream projects is to do a somewhat large (26cc gas) PBY-5a Catalila. The 5a is an amphibious PBY, and the nose wheel of it goes out at the bottom of the hull, and I don't know how much sealing is needed with that gear door. My thought is that the air pocket in the retract bay will keep most water out, but I don't know what it will do during takeoff and landing.
Any thoughts?
01-04-2010, 07:40 PM
#2
RE: Fully amphibious
Look in my Gallery,
I have a project in there, that all three gear will be under water. and the plane will pickup and drop water
Shouldn't a big problem if you plan ahead and use pneumatic retracts, the boat guys have all kids of goodies to seal push rods etc.
The gear and water drop doors on my project will be held closed by a spring loaded rod via a retract servo,, should hold plenty tight
I have a project in there, that all three gear will be under water. and the plane will pickup and drop water
Shouldn't a big problem if you plan ahead and use pneumatic retracts, the boat guys have all kids of goodies to seal push rods etc.
The gear and water drop doors on my project will be held closed by a spring loaded rod via a retract servo,, should hold plenty tight
01-05-2010, 11:34 AM
#3
RE: Fully amphibious
BsSmith,
You will have to have gear doors on the nose wheel. They can overlap, but still be flush in the center and need not be totally water tight. Without gear doors on the nose, the model will flip if the gear "inside box opening" touches the water.
Charles
You will have to have gear doors on the nose wheel. They can overlap, but still be flush in the center and need not be totally water tight. Without gear doors on the nose, the model will flip if the gear "inside box opening" touches the water.
Charles
05-28-2010, 02:57 PM
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RE: Fully amphibious
hi, you got good advice from 2 men. Also add that asealed, wet well in the bow is necessary. FYI There was a terrible crash in Uk by a full scale which was caused by acorroded bow door mechanism on landing: the well flooded , the PBY nosed in and sank asap. Bow doors have got to be VERY watertight and firmly sealed. Another post (PBY something?) shows excellent nose gear and door mech for dry field use. Wet sealing on mains is also a big deal. All PBY's throw a lot of spray. The water line is high anyway. Good luck. Matt.
