Top Flight Giant scale P-47 build by Glenn Williams
02-16-2014, 05:31 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Top Flight Giant scale P-47 build by Glenn Williams
Hey all:
I just purchased a Top Flight giant scale P-47 kit. Although there are other build threads out there. I wanted to start a new one. I intend to post a lot of pictures and detailed instructions during this build. I would like to also put scale details on the plane as much as possible and try to keep it light. My intent as of now is to have the following:
Full working retracts (inner and outer gear doors)
Scale tail wheel retract (with working doors)
Both super charger outlets working (Servo controlled)
Working cowl flaps (I am looking for the temperature controlled mechanism) automatic flaps.
Panel lines and rivets.
Detailed cockpit with sliding canopy
I intend to cover this using the polycrillic method (water based minwax product)
Right now I am leaning toward the "Big Ass Bird ii" scheme but that may change.
Feel free to jump in, add suggestions and pictures as you deem neccessary. All suggestions/questions are welcome. Also thanks in advance for any help/advice.
Lets see where this build takes us.
As a side note. I travel quite frequently and there may be times when I do not get to post updates for awhile. So please be patient with me lol.
Looking forward to this and welcome aboard. Here is the picture of me onboxing the kit.
Regards
Glenn Williams
I just purchased a Top Flight giant scale P-47 kit. Although there are other build threads out there. I wanted to start a new one. I intend to post a lot of pictures and detailed instructions during this build. I would like to also put scale details on the plane as much as possible and try to keep it light. My intent as of now is to have the following:
Full working retracts (inner and outer gear doors)
Scale tail wheel retract (with working doors)
Both super charger outlets working (Servo controlled)
Working cowl flaps (I am looking for the temperature controlled mechanism) automatic flaps.
Panel lines and rivets.
Detailed cockpit with sliding canopy
I intend to cover this using the polycrillic method (water based minwax product)
Right now I am leaning toward the "Big Ass Bird ii" scheme but that may change.
Feel free to jump in, add suggestions and pictures as you deem neccessary. All suggestions/questions are welcome. Also thanks in advance for any help/advice.
Lets see where this build takes us.
As a side note. I travel quite frequently and there may be times when I do not get to post updates for awhile. So please be patient with me lol.
Looking forward to this and welcome aboard. Here is the picture of me onboxing the kit.
Regards
Glenn Williams
02-17-2014, 03:42 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will not be able to start construction until late March or early April. Got called away to work on a forced outage. Bummer. Anyway it gives me time to get parts together.
Glenn
Glenn
02-17-2014, 07:13 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shot in the dark but am looking for either electric or pneumatic retracts new or used and a G62 magneto engine. Anyone have resources or know anyone let me know and thanks in advance.
Glenn
Glenn
02-17-2014, 08:00 PM
#6
My Feedback: (6)
Hi Glen
Just my 2 pennies worth with all of the scale thingy's I can tell you you will had pressed to stay under 35 lbs, that said I would recomend a little more engine like a G-80 or any of the engines in that size. next will you be thinking of putting the maines in the scale location ? if so I would recomend the seara (spelling) as they are cyl inline with the strut and make for an easer mod.
Now I will go lay down by my dish and just watch
cheers Bob T
AMA13377 Corsair Brother Hood #6
Ps Mine is 32 with the G-62 and flies good but no reserv power so to say
Just my 2 pennies worth with all of the scale thingy's I can tell you you will had pressed to stay under 35 lbs, that said I would recomend a little more engine like a G-80 or any of the engines in that size. next will you be thinking of putting the maines in the scale location ? if so I would recomend the seara (spelling) as they are cyl inline with the strut and make for an easer mod.
Now I will go lay down by my dish and just watch
cheers Bob T
AMA13377 Corsair Brother Hood #6
Ps Mine is 32 with the G-62 and flies good but no reserv power so to say
Last edited by rt3232; 02-17-2014 at 08:03 PM. Reason: add a ps
02-18-2014, 08:32 PM
#10
My Feedback: (6)
Sys Would not let me finish , So not a lot of damage cowel, fus chin, nick in the wing as I like plastic bolts. It is now repaired and just waiting for weather to squirt the paint. I did not know one of my flying buddies was takeing these pic's
What engine would I sugest First thought was a G-80 also DLE-85 or DA-85 if available a RCGF or any good 80 cc engine just do your home work for your budget.
I am sure you have found Tony/builders Thread in kit building, there are a few in the war bird forum also,
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
this is my outher T/F G/S bird with a G-62.
.
What engine would I sugest First thought was a G-80 also DLE-85 or DA-85 if available a RCGF or any good 80 cc engine just do your home work for your budget.
I am sure you have found Tony/builders Thread in kit building, there are a few in the war bird forum also,
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
.
02-19-2014, 05:05 AM
#11
Last edited by redbiscuits; 02-19-2014 at 05:06 AM. Reason: spelling
02-21-2014, 02:52 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey all:
I got home early yesterday and did an inventory and laid out my building table. I cut the horizontal stab portion from the plans, Laid it out and taped in place. I also used plan protecter from great planes. I removed the called out wood ribs. I also removed the Horizontal stab trailing edges, and elevator leading edges. Removed all the flashing between the wood where the ribs go then sanded lightly, and glued the Horizontal doublers into position. I am using Sig super weld on the doublers.
I will be letting this dry overnight, and will trial fit the ribs together in the morning. Once satisfied with the fit I will add lightning holes in the ribs as I deem neccessary. Being that this is a built up wood fuselage
they tend to come out tail heavy and every little bit of weight I save here will pay dividends when it comes to CG time.
More later.
Glenn Williams
I got home early yesterday and did an inventory and laid out my building table. I cut the horizontal stab portion from the plans, Laid it out and taped in place. I also used plan protecter from great planes. I removed the called out wood ribs. I also removed the Horizontal stab trailing edges, and elevator leading edges. Removed all the flashing between the wood where the ribs go then sanded lightly, and glued the Horizontal doublers into position. I am using Sig super weld on the doublers.
I will be letting this dry overnight, and will trial fit the ribs together in the morning. Once satisfied with the fit I will add lightning holes in the ribs as I deem neccessary. Being that this is a built up wood fuselage
More later.
Glenn Williams
02-22-2014, 07:30 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Build progess 2/22/2014
Morning everyone: This morning I temp installed the ribs and checked fit between them and the trailing edge stab and against the leading edge elevator. After some minor adjustments, I got them where they need to be. Then came the rib jigs. I cut those out per instructions and nailed them down to my building board. Then installed both left and right side horizontal stabs into the recess in the rib jigs. Ensured that all ribs are touching the building board and then squared everything up. Then the two halves of the joiner were glued together.
I have to wait until the joiner is dry before I can glue it in place, check fit then commence glueing the ribs into place
.
Side note. I was going to add lightning holes but got to thinking that since I am going to be using a big engine on this bird, I do not want any chance of flutter to occur. As such I am building per the plan.
More to come later.
Glenn Williams
I have to wait until the joiner is dry before I can glue it in place, check fit then commence glueing the ribs into place
.
Side note. I was going to add lightning holes but got to thinking that since I am going to be using a big engine on this bird, I do not want any chance of flutter to occur. As such I am building per the plan.
More to come later.
Glenn Williams
02-22-2014, 04:28 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More progress today
Well made some more progress today. I am basically finished with the horizontal stab. It is "in the bones". As the pictures show the mid sheeting is complete on the upper side. I use an unorthodox way of making patterns. The way I do this is to take a sheet of Bounce and lay over the plan. The bounce allows you to see through the sheet and you can use a straight edge and trace over what you need to cut. It is easy to draw on using a ball boint pen and it cuts easy. Just lay the bounce over the part you are going to cut and easy peezy it is done.
I laid out 4 pieces of balsa and glued them to make sheeting for the horizontal stab. I use aliphatic wood glue from sig for this job. Just tape the wood portions together with masking tape and glue the joints. Wipe away the excess with a credit card and lay some weight on the pieces so they dry flat, and wallah, you have sheeting.
Pictures continued on next post.
More tomorrow hopefully.
Regards
Glenn Williams
I laid out 4 pieces of balsa and glued them to make sheeting for the horizontal stab. I use aliphatic wood glue from sig for this job. Just tape the wood portions together with masking tape and glue the joints. Wipe away the excess with a credit card and lay some weight on the pieces so they dry flat, and wallah, you have sheeting.
Pictures continued on next post.
More tomorrow hopefully.
Regards
Glenn Williams
02-22-2014, 04:29 PM
#16
My Feedback: (6)
Glenn
way back when I started mine I had a question on how must an ounce of weight in the tail would coast in added weight in the nose. After doing a little math and some fiscal playing around I came up with this 1oz removed weight in the tail (aft of the C/G) means 5 to 7 oz less in the nose.
So IMHO save evey ounce you can in the tail, is a must.
Now the old engineer in me say's that lighting holes if done right will NOT reduce your structure strength, so this is how you do it, "edge of hole to the edge of material sould be 11/2 times the thicknes", this works for most woods and lite ply.
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
way back when I started mine I had a question on how must an ounce of weight in the tail would coast in added weight in the nose. After doing a little math and some fiscal playing around I came up with this 1oz removed weight in the tail (aft of the C/G) means 5 to 7 oz less in the nose.
So IMHO save evey ounce you can in the tail, is a must.
Now the old engineer in me say's that lighting holes if done right will NOT reduce your structure strength, so this is how you do it, "edge of hole to the edge of material sould be 11/2 times the thicknes", this works for most woods and lite ply.
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
02-23-2014, 02:11 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Haltom,
TX
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well came home from the field to watch the Daytona 500. it is in a rain delay so worked on the horizontal stab some more. Basically, i added the hinge blocks to the stab and elevator. Then sheeted the bottom side. I am currently awaiting the glue to dry so I can trim the elevators to shape, then sand and get it ready for fiberglass.
I punched a hole in the bottom sheeting and repaired it and am going to need some filler. I do not have any at the moment so...
All for now more in April.
you all have a good one.
Glenn Williams
I punched a hole in the bottom sheeting and repaired it and am going to need some filler. I do not have any at the moment so...
All for now more in April.
you all have a good one.
Glenn Williams
02-24-2014, 01:54 PM
#20
Glenn, your moving right along. I found that with the lightening holes I only saved a few grams, but like Bob said it all adds up, my beast is 37lb +- so I threw out the weight watchers a long time ago. Stock jug will fly great with 50cc at under 30lb any more you are going to want some more juice, most are adding a lot of led to the cowl, I had to ad 1+ lb with a DLE85 up front. So I would go as big and heavy as you can on the power.
TB
TB