A Question on the Sig 1/4 Scale Cub Wing
#1
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A Question on the Sig 1/4 Scale Cub Wing
I will be starting a build on a Sig 1/4 scale cub after Thanksgiving. I would prefer to build the clipped wing version but the finished wing is too long for me to transport. 86 inches I believe. So now for the question: Can the 2 piece wing on the Sig full size kit be simply built shorter to produce the clipped wing version I desire? Comments / info appreciated.
Best wishes to all as we enter the holiday season this week.
Best wishes to all as we enter the holiday season this week.
#2
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I see no reason that you could not just leave off the outer few inches. You may have to relocate the attachment points and length of the struts to make it to conform more for scale but I am not that familiar with aspect of the kit. I'm sure someone will comment on having done this in this forum very shortly with more factual comments.
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Tcraft, I have built them both. I don't see any reason that you couldn't do that. I have a long wing
kit on the shelf that I am going to clip the wings on next time.The center sections are a little different
due to the fact that the wing is in 2 pieces. If memory serves me correct there are a couple different ribs,
maby one light ply or something. I don't really remember. I have an extea set of clipped-wing plans if you
need them. This can be done. PM me an address if you want them.
kit on the shelf that I am going to clip the wings on next time.The center sections are a little different
due to the fact that the wing is in 2 pieces. If memory serves me correct there are a couple different ribs,
maby one light ply or something. I don't really remember. I have an extea set of clipped-wing plans if you
need them. This can be done. PM me an address if you want them.
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That shouldn't be too hard. Just a little pre planning. There are a couple
threads on here showing how. They might give you an idea. I like to check em
out and make a few changes to suit my needs. A lot of different ways to
skin that cat.
threads on here showing how. They might give you an idea. I like to check em
out and make a few changes to suit my needs. A lot of different ways to
skin that cat.
#7
On the full scale Clipped Wing Cub the wings were shortened 1-1/2 bays on the inboard end of the panels closest to the fuselage.
This should be easy to do with the existing plans just cut the wing panel plans and overlap the correct amount shortening the wings between the fuse and the ailerons.
I built the stock 1/4 Clipped Wing Cub and the one piece wing was a PITA. I am now flying a 1/3 J-3 and wish I would have shortened the wings on it as well.
This should be easy to do with the existing plans just cut the wing panel plans and overlap the correct amount shortening the wings between the fuse and the ailerons.
I built the stock 1/4 Clipped Wing Cub and the one piece wing was a PITA. I am now flying a 1/3 J-3 and wish I would have shortened the wings on it as well.
#10
I will be starting a build on a Sig 1/4 scale cub after Thanksgiving. I would prefer to build the clipped wing version but the finished wing is too long for me to transport. 86 inches I believe. So now for the question: Can the 2 piece wing on the Sig full size kit be simply built shorter to produce the clipped wing version I desire? Comments / info appreciated.
Best wishes to all as we enter the holiday season this week.
Best wishes to all as we enter the holiday season this week.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 Cub, H9 100 inch (Gen 1) Cub, GB Anniv Cub
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk l/II Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II
#11
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Thanks to all for your creative suggestions. I will be stopping at the Sig plant in Montezuma, Ia. on Tues. to make my purchase. I'm looking forward to that. At this point I'm leaning toward purchasing the long wing and clipping it then dealing with fuselage accessibility. Thanx again and have a good holiday. Dave
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Ah yes the Sig plant. We went there on vacation around Laybor Day. I took the factory
tour and loved it. You could bounce the idea off Mike Gretz while you're there. He
designed the 1/4 Clipped-Wing.
tour and loved it. You could bounce the idea off Mike Gretz while you're there. He
designed the 1/4 Clipped-Wing.
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Ok TCraft Lover,
I have an old Sig 1/4 scale Cub. Mine was built according to the plans with one of the wings longer than the other and when you join the wings the center section is part of the long wing. In a perfect world this is a beautiful thing. Unfortunatly we don't live in a perfect world.
I used a NIB OS 120 TWIN on mine and had a terrible time with that wing setup. I would get the motor running fine on the ground and it would Flame Out right after takeoff. If I had enough altitude I could make a dead stick landing on the field but if I landed in the weeds the airplane would stop dead and nose over. When it nosed over the wing would keep moving and break the dihedral brace.
All the newly designed airplanes such as this are using a 2 piece wing with a 3/4 " or 1" wing tube. The tubes are either carbon fiber or aluminum. I have used a 1" aluminum tube that you can get from Ace Hardware, Lowes, or Home Depot.
Build 2 wings the same length and drill holes in the ribs accounting for the dihedral angle for the wing tube to pass threw. Spaceworms Cub is the much better setup. He used rectangular stock to do it instead of a wing tube.
I eventually got my Cub to fly good after I got the motor broke in. I had to make a muffler on the Starboard Exhaust pipe so I could get some pressure to help push fuel to the motor. It is a sweet flying airplane with a 16-6 prop. Couple your ailerons and rudder for your test flight. Mine doesn't like to turn with only ailerons.
Larry
I have an old Sig 1/4 scale Cub. Mine was built according to the plans with one of the wings longer than the other and when you join the wings the center section is part of the long wing. In a perfect world this is a beautiful thing. Unfortunatly we don't live in a perfect world.
I used a NIB OS 120 TWIN on mine and had a terrible time with that wing setup. I would get the motor running fine on the ground and it would Flame Out right after takeoff. If I had enough altitude I could make a dead stick landing on the field but if I landed in the weeds the airplane would stop dead and nose over. When it nosed over the wing would keep moving and break the dihedral brace.
All the newly designed airplanes such as this are using a 2 piece wing with a 3/4 " or 1" wing tube. The tubes are either carbon fiber or aluminum. I have used a 1" aluminum tube that you can get from Ace Hardware, Lowes, or Home Depot.
Build 2 wings the same length and drill holes in the ribs accounting for the dihedral angle for the wing tube to pass threw. Spaceworms Cub is the much better setup. He used rectangular stock to do it instead of a wing tube.
I eventually got my Cub to fly good after I got the motor broke in. I had to make a muffler on the Starboard Exhaust pipe so I could get some pressure to help push fuel to the motor. It is a sweet flying airplane with a 16-6 prop. Couple your ailerons and rudder for your test flight. Mine doesn't like to turn with only ailerons.
Larry
#18
The wings on the clipped wing and the full span wing are quite a bit different, especially in the center section area.
First thing to realize is that to clip the wing, you take 2 1/2 rib bays out from the root NOT the tip. That's the way the full size plane is clipped as well. Much easier than doing it at the tip. Sig also clips the 1/5 and the 1/6 Cubs at the root. It's easier for you to build it that way as well.
You also need to change your wing struts and attachment fittings and the jury struts.
As for making the wing two piece, the full span Sig wing is built with the center section attached to the left panel. The right panel bolts onto that and then the entire wing is bolted to the fuselage.
That still leaves one major discrepancy from the scale. The fuselage top where it becomes the cabin and joins the wings is nowhere even close to realistic. Look at the top spine. Joins in the wrong place. Upper fuselage profile is incorrect.
However, anything can be corrected. You'd need to build a proper cabin structure. You can then attach each individual wing panel to that - be they clipped or full span While, you are at it, you can easily make an operating door and window.
For ideas on how to do that while maintaining fuselage/cabin integrity, check out this RCU link on doing just those things and also converting the plane to a sort of PA-18:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...cub-build.html
Also, Look up Cubman for tons of ideas with the Cub. He started the Cub brotherhood list on RCU.
I would also strongly recommend that you go to Sig's website where you can download the construction manuals for both the full span and clipped wing versions for free. Get those, study the photographs and steps in each. You'll soon figure out the differences and what you need to do. Then when you go to Sig, you'll already have done your homework.
When I built mine - clipped wing, of course - I made it one piece as strong as I could and left the fuselage discrepancy alone, since I'd planned on wringing it out brutally. I succeeded and it survived. It's demise was due to radio failure.
All the best with your project.
First thing to realize is that to clip the wing, you take 2 1/2 rib bays out from the root NOT the tip. That's the way the full size plane is clipped as well. Much easier than doing it at the tip. Sig also clips the 1/5 and the 1/6 Cubs at the root. It's easier for you to build it that way as well.
You also need to change your wing struts and attachment fittings and the jury struts.
As for making the wing two piece, the full span Sig wing is built with the center section attached to the left panel. The right panel bolts onto that and then the entire wing is bolted to the fuselage.
That still leaves one major discrepancy from the scale. The fuselage top where it becomes the cabin and joins the wings is nowhere even close to realistic. Look at the top spine. Joins in the wrong place. Upper fuselage profile is incorrect.
However, anything can be corrected. You'd need to build a proper cabin structure. You can then attach each individual wing panel to that - be they clipped or full span While, you are at it, you can easily make an operating door and window.
For ideas on how to do that while maintaining fuselage/cabin integrity, check out this RCU link on doing just those things and also converting the plane to a sort of PA-18:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...cub-build.html
Also, Look up Cubman for tons of ideas with the Cub. He started the Cub brotherhood list on RCU.
I would also strongly recommend that you go to Sig's website where you can download the construction manuals for both the full span and clipped wing versions for free. Get those, study the photographs and steps in each. You'll soon figure out the differences and what you need to do. Then when you go to Sig, you'll already have done your homework.
When I built mine - clipped wing, of course - I made it one piece as strong as I could and left the fuselage discrepancy alone, since I'd planned on wringing it out brutally. I succeeded and it survived. It's demise was due to radio failure.
All the best with your project.
#19
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I have built two full span (one for a friend) and one clipped wing that I still have after thirty years painted with K&B epoxy blue and white with OS160 Twin....anyways......
The full span Cubs were built to plans but, because the way the "box" and plywood joiner "fit" they both become one piece wings with the help of Elmer's.
Not what you want to hear....but check that area out while building her. A really sloppy fit there. Can be made better.
The full span Cubs were built to plans but, because the way the "box" and plywood joiner "fit" they both become one piece wings with the help of Elmer's.
Not what you want to hear....but check that area out while building her. A really sloppy fit there. Can be made better.
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Thanx for the input MX240. At this point it's tough to imagine the build difference, and why there should be any, between the two wing sizes. Right now I'm thinking of a center section attached to one wing 1/2 and some type of brace / joiner interlock and a bolt together system of sorts. Probably change my mind when I actually see the plans.
Have a good turkey day!
Have a good turkey day!
#21
Thanx for the input MX240. At this point it's tough to imagine the build difference, and why there should be any, between the two wing sizes. Right now I'm thinking of a center section attached to one wing 1/2 and some type of brace / joiner interlock and a bolt together system of sorts. Probably change my mind when I actually see the plans.
Have a good turkey day!
Have a good turkey day!
I am sure there is a similar manual for the full span 1/4 scale wing by SIG in the Full span 1/4 scale kit manual.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 Cub, H9 100 inch (Gen 1) Cub, GB Anniv Cub
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk l/II Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II