Modifying HL Boards
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Modifying HL Boards
Hi Tank Gurus:
Hope everyone had a great Christmas.
It occurred to me that all of the functions of HL tanks are a direct function of the circuitry/component choices on the main board (as activated by the transmitter signal). As this is certainly the case, one should be able to change or eliminate any of the functions with circuit/component changes to the existing board. It would take a Tanker Guru with far more electronic knowledge than I have to effect such changes but the concept is relatively straight forward.
Recoil: I really don't know how the "Dreaded Heng Long Recoil" is activated, but it involves sending a quick burst of forward voltage to the drive motors followed by a quick burst of reverse voltage. Locating the circuit/components that accomplishes this involves tracing motor circuits and associated circuits on the board.
A clever "Electronics Wizard" should be able to figure out the circuitry that accomplishes this (an electronic switching and timing circuit) and would know how to deactivate it or moderate it to lessen the effect.
For instance: If you shortened the timing it would dampen the effect, if you eliminated the forward burst, it would only allow a quick backwards motion which would at least reduce the effect by half and appear more like real uncontrolled recoil, and if you completely deactivate it, a lot of people would be really grateful.
The changes to the board might be as simple as scratching through one of the printed circuit paths to completely deactivate the circuit, to adding a jumper or jumper wires and/or adding or replacing components to change the timing.
Sorry I don't have the knowledge of electronics to do any of this but hoping that someone who does will jump in and show dummies like myself what is needed.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can benefit us with their superior electronics wizardry.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
Hope everyone had a great Christmas.
It occurred to me that all of the functions of HL tanks are a direct function of the circuitry/component choices on the main board (as activated by the transmitter signal). As this is certainly the case, one should be able to change or eliminate any of the functions with circuit/component changes to the existing board. It would take a Tanker Guru with far more electronic knowledge than I have to effect such changes but the concept is relatively straight forward.
Recoil: I really don't know how the "Dreaded Heng Long Recoil" is activated, but it involves sending a quick burst of forward voltage to the drive motors followed by a quick burst of reverse voltage. Locating the circuit/components that accomplishes this involves tracing motor circuits and associated circuits on the board.
A clever "Electronics Wizard" should be able to figure out the circuitry that accomplishes this (an electronic switching and timing circuit) and would know how to deactivate it or moderate it to lessen the effect.
For instance: If you shortened the timing it would dampen the effect, if you eliminated the forward burst, it would only allow a quick backwards motion which would at least reduce the effect by half and appear more like real uncontrolled recoil, and if you completely deactivate it, a lot of people would be really grateful.
The changes to the board might be as simple as scratching through one of the printed circuit paths to completely deactivate the circuit, to adding a jumper or jumper wires and/or adding or replacing components to change the timing.
Sorry I don't have the knowledge of electronics to do any of this but hoping that someone who does will jump in and show dummies like myself what is needed.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can benefit us with their superior electronics wizardry.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
#2
Hey, Old Fatman, sorry to go off topic, but don't you ever check your messages? I've sent several and haven't heard back from you. I have set of gearboxes here for you but I need to know if you can reassemble them when they get there before I'll send them. Check your messages, watch the video and then get back to me, K?
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Hi maxu52:
OOps! I've been away over Christmas and forgot to check. Sorry about that.
Yes, even though I'm all thumbs, I can assemble them and thanks again for your very kind offer.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
OOps! I've been away over Christmas and forgot to check. Sorry about that.
Yes, even though I'm all thumbs, I can assemble them and thanks again for your very kind offer.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
#5
There are add on boards that will allow you to lessen or stop the tank track recoil effect. My CRS is kicking in and I can't remember what they are called or who makes them.
Herman
Herman
#6
I Searched Recoil Elimination...
To correct a Busted Web Link...
Here re is an option from Welsh Dragon:
http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/a...nit-1918-p.asp
Here is a fairly recent thread covering the subject:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...dy-recoil.html
There are several methods of varying complexity to Git Er Done...
-gus
To correct a Busted Web Link...
Here re is an option from Welsh Dragon:
http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/a...nit-1918-p.asp
Here is a fairly recent thread covering the subject:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...dy-recoil.html
There are several methods of varying complexity to Git Er Done...
-gus
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Green Amphibian:
Thanks for the reply.
A search (I know the search is your friend) turned up what appears to be viable solution. Darkith in the UK has a product that disables the recoil function, adds programmable momentum (user selectable - Light through Heavy) and comes either prewired or in a kit. Kit was listed at $35 + $10 shipping, reasonable considering current cost of components, circuit board production etc. I emailed him with some questions and got a quick reply:"
Hi Tom,1. No, momentum is not selectable per se. Each weight class has it's appropriate momentum.
2. Momentum can be configured after power on, from the transmitter.
3. It needs to be activated at each power up.
4. No momentum does not affect the "HL Recoil". The "Recoil Blocking" feature removes the track recoil while firing.
5. No, the DBC-HL cannot be used with a hobby-grade radio. Only the DBC-RC2HL works with a hobby-grade radio.
The beauty of this unit is that when you power up the system you can select light through heavy momentum, a definite plus. I don't recall if the
recoil blocking is selectable at power up or is hard wired but can be activated. Also the DBC-HL works with the Heng Long
radio and board so you don't need to upgrade the radio. He has another unit for use with aftermarket radios.
Just thought I'd pass this on.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
Thanks for the reply.
A search (I know the search is your friend) turned up what appears to be viable solution. Darkith in the UK has a product that disables the recoil function, adds programmable momentum (user selectable - Light through Heavy) and comes either prewired or in a kit. Kit was listed at $35 + $10 shipping, reasonable considering current cost of components, circuit board production etc. I emailed him with some questions and got a quick reply:"
Hi Tom,1. No, momentum is not selectable per se. Each weight class has it's appropriate momentum.
2. Momentum can be configured after power on, from the transmitter.
3. It needs to be activated at each power up.
4. No momentum does not affect the "HL Recoil". The "Recoil Blocking" feature removes the track recoil while firing.
5. No, the DBC-HL cannot be used with a hobby-grade radio. Only the DBC-RC2HL works with a hobby-grade radio.
The beauty of this unit is that when you power up the system you can select light through heavy momentum, a definite plus. I don't recall if the
recoil blocking is selectable at power up or is hard wired but can be activated. Also the DBC-HL works with the Heng Long
radio and board so you don't need to upgrade the radio. He has another unit for use with aftermarket radios.
Just thought I'd pass this on.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
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Hi Agustus1967:
Thanks for the reply.
Gotta love RC Universe. A lot of help out there.
Wow, Welsh Dragon has a lot of good stuff. It seems that the UK and Australia are the "go to" places
for tank upgrades.
I wish we had something similar here in the US.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
Thanks for the reply.
Gotta love RC Universe. A lot of help out there.
Wow, Welsh Dragon has a lot of good stuff. It seems that the UK and Australia are the "go to" places
for tank upgrades.
I wish we had something similar here in the US.
Cheers,
Old Fatman
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Darkith is the designer of the BARC 3, which is a RTR DBCRC2 with Benedini encoder functions.
Darkith( David) is in Canada. IF you want a DIY KIT contact him at
http://darkith.dyndns.org/~darkith/html/dbc_snd.shtml
The Reason for the name change is because all BARC3 are factory assembled and tested where as all DBC2RC started their life as DIY kits, and if the fellow putting them together has any cold solder joints then there can be issues. I wanted to distance what I sell from the DIY kits. The factory built BARC's are 100% with no failures.
Check out my website OFM.
Cheers
Darkith( David) is in Canada. IF you want a DIY KIT contact him at
http://darkith.dyndns.org/~darkith/html/dbc_snd.shtml
The Reason for the name change is because all BARC3 are factory assembled and tested where as all DBC2RC started their life as DIY kits, and if the fellow putting them together has any cold solder joints then there can be issues. I wanted to distance what I sell from the DIY kits. The factory built BARC's are 100% with no failures.
Check out my website OFM.
Cheers
Last edited by YHR; 12-27-2014 at 02:33 PM.
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Hi YHR:
Thanks for the reply.
I stand corrected on Darkith My Bad, I genuinely thought he was located in the UK.
Visited the Battlearmor RC site and it's very informative. A lot of good information there.
Your point on the factory assembled and tested is well founded. You can't beat factory assembled and tested for reliability.
Again, Thanks for the information
Old Fatman
Thanks for the reply.
I stand corrected on Darkith My Bad, I genuinely thought he was located in the UK.
Visited the Battlearmor RC site and it's very informative. A lot of good information there.
Your point on the factory assembled and tested is well founded. You can't beat factory assembled and tested for reliability.
Again, Thanks for the information
Old Fatman