1/6 21st Century Toys M5 Stuart Tank
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1/6 21st Century Toys M5 Stuart Tank
Just picked this bad boy up Monday.
When I picked it up it was in need of some TLC. No remote and turret gear was broken off. I started trying to find a 2.4 transmitter that I could get the left stick to self center and update the electronics from there. Well yesterday rolled around and the guy texted me that he found the original transmitter. So I went and grabbed it along with a vintage kyosho monster truck.
When I got it home I noticed that the screw that held the battery down on on the tx was rusted so I didn't expect much when I opened it up. To my surprise there was a 9V installed and not one OZ of corrosion and it turned on. So then I started trying to get things to power up. Sure enough it came back to life. Drove it around the yard for a few minutes but the right side gear box and the previous owners repair to the right rear guide wheel need attention before it drives like is suppose to. Well now that I got that working I repaired the turret gear and got the turret working like it should, Sound board works, and the Missile launcher works.
Videos
So all in all great find. Was definatly in the right place at the right time. If anyone has ideas on a new transmitter with duel centering sticks I would appreciate any info. I'll post some more pics once I get the gear box tore down and the guide wheel repaired.
When I picked it up it was in need of some TLC. No remote and turret gear was broken off. I started trying to find a 2.4 transmitter that I could get the left stick to self center and update the electronics from there. Well yesterday rolled around and the guy texted me that he found the original transmitter. So I went and grabbed it along with a vintage kyosho monster truck.
When I got it home I noticed that the screw that held the battery down on on the tx was rusted so I didn't expect much when I opened it up. To my surprise there was a 9V installed and not one OZ of corrosion and it turned on. So then I started trying to get things to power up. Sure enough it came back to life. Drove it around the yard for a few minutes but the right side gear box and the previous owners repair to the right rear guide wheel need attention before it drives like is suppose to. Well now that I got that working I repaired the turret gear and got the turret working like it should, Sound board works, and the Missile launcher works.
Videos
So all in all great find. Was definatly in the right place at the right time. If anyone has ideas on a new transmitter with duel centering sticks I would appreciate any info. I'll post some more pics once I get the gear box tore down and the guide wheel repaired.
#2
You can make the DX6I have both sticks self centering by looking at this.
https://youtu.be/Wy9PvqpWUnc
https://youtu.be/Wy9PvqpWUnc
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Thanks, That one has been coming up this afternoon with my searching. I haven't run across that one yet. Do you know if you can set the throttle with it centered? For forward and reverse.
#4
I run my throttle on my right stick and it is self centering. So if I let go of the right stick the tank stops. I set my DX6I (see my video in my first post) left stick so it would self center also. The left stick controls my turret, gun, smoke and light functions. As with most other aircraft radios, the throttle is on the left stick, (in the stock configuration) and yes, if you push it forward half way for example, the throttle will stay in that position. But again, that is not how I have mine set up. Hope this helps.
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I run my throttle on my right stick and it is self centering. So if I let go of the right stick the tank stops. I set my DX6I (see my video in my first post) left stick so it would self center also. The left stick controls my turret, gun, smoke and light functions. As with most other aircraft radios, the throttle is on the left stick, (in the stock configuration) and yes, if you push it forward half way for example, the throttle will stay in that position. But again, that is not how I have mine set up. Hope this helps.
#6
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Picked up what I need to get the right rear wheel fixed. Also took the right side gear box apart to see what was going on there. Found a gear missing a few teeth. Now another needle in a hay stack search begins LOL
#7
Probably the cheapest way to get you up and running would be with a Taigen 2.4GHZ system. For right at $100.00 new, that would give you the transmitter and MFU (mult function unit). You could put JST plugs on your motors and plug them into the mfu. the mfu also needs a power source. Any nimh battery will work as long as it is about 1800-2000 MAH. You can find these systems used cheap. I've seen them for sale for as cheap as $25.00. Take a look on you tube for the Taigen MFU.
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It was originally set up for 12v so I thought a 3s would be fine. I've got a alarm on it but honestly its run maybe 4 mins total. Generally I just plug it in to show it off or test something.
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Anyone have a busted gear box for one of these things. Looking for 1 gear. Right side. Gear B looks to be 3 in that gear box. Hoping someone has one with a gear still in good shape.
#14
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I've got one of these tanks I am bringing my sprocket in to a local machine shop to have another made might be able to take the gear box gear in and have them make one for you if you'll show me which ones are missing I can tell you tomarrow what a price would be
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I went today and they said they could not make either my part or the gear they suggested a place but said the gear would cost about 300 to make I thought it was a little ridiculous but I'll be on the lookout for more places that make gears and pm you if I do
#24
The problem with that gear, and why it's so expensive, is because of what it will take to cut the smaller set of teeth. That's why it's cast, because a gear like that is so hard to cut. If a guy is very, very good, and has a good lathe hand that can put a tiny relief groove in for the shaper cutter it can be done, but you need a shaper that runs really well and a good set up guy to get the job done without scrapping half a dozen blanks during set up. A gear like that can't be hobbed and that's your problem (the teeth on the larger diameter can be hobbed but not the smaller). For this application you might be better off with a plastic gear if you can find someone to 3D print one that's tough enough. I don't know enough about 3D printing to know what kind of material they can use and if it would be strong enough.
If someone walked into our shop and wanted that gear made I doubt we'd touch it for less than a thousand piece order, and then it would still be expensive. Another option might be to see if you can make the replacement as two separate gears on a keyed or splined shaft. If you can get photos that show the gear from all sides I might be able to advise you further, and if you can get gear data I can tell you if I have the cutters to do the job. I unfortunately did not have the .6 mod cutter I would've needed to do gears for the Puma for Bret, but I may have the right cutter for this gear. If I have the cutters it's not bad, but those are very expensive to rent or buy.
One last thing, aluminum isn't the best for making gears out of, you might want to consider brass or stainless. The latter is harder to work with, but for such a small piece it's not too bad.
If someone walked into our shop and wanted that gear made I doubt we'd touch it for less than a thousand piece order, and then it would still be expensive. Another option might be to see if you can make the replacement as two separate gears on a keyed or splined shaft. If you can get photos that show the gear from all sides I might be able to advise you further, and if you can get gear data I can tell you if I have the cutters to do the job. I unfortunately did not have the .6 mod cutter I would've needed to do gears for the Puma for Bret, but I may have the right cutter for this gear. If I have the cutters it's not bad, but those are very expensive to rent or buy.
One last thing, aluminum isn't the best for making gears out of, you might want to consider brass or stainless. The latter is harder to work with, but for such a small piece it's not too bad.
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Yes I knew it would be expensive but curiosity. If I can't find one in a couple of days after I get some of the other projects out of the shop I'm going start the mod process. Either I'm going to attempt a mold and cast another gear out of aluminum or I'm going to mate a pinion gear to the good part of the broken gear and go from there. I have a pinion gear that is identical to the striped part of the broken gear and might go that route first. We'll see. Just need it to move under it's own steam to a new home.