Neil2704

Hi this is my adx-10 buggy. It is my first 1/10th scale electric buggy. I bought it after a long break from the hobby. It's appeal to me was that it seemed to be built tough with the outside frame skirts like a hpi savage. It was light and sharp looking and affordable. Beyond that I took a gamble because I had never even heard of Arrma before that. Until yesterday it was stock then yesterday I picked up some proline premounted tires and put in a hitech 645mg steering servo and upgraded to a nicer fully adjustable sky radio that I also use for my crawler. I think ditching the factory friction shocks will be next since the stock 15t motor seems to have lots of jam. What are your suggestions?

DieHarder

Is that a R1?

I like your paddle tire choice with the solid across paddles, those are the best. It should already have a metal tranny, so you're set there. It looks like the shocks are supposed to be oil filled, but those plastic ones never hold oil so they might seem like friction shocks.

If it were me, the next thing I would do is go brushless and lipo with it. Or at least run lipo. But if you'd rather keep it stock with the electronics, then I think it's good to go after the shock upgrade.

Neil2704

Thanks for the advice die harder, do you have any recommendation for shocks? Also can the stock esc handle a 2s or 3s Lipo? Because everyone is trying to talk me into going Lipo on my crawler too and I only have 3 5000 nihm stick batteries at this point so I'm not to far invested to make a switch.

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

It can handle up to a 2S LiPO. I highly suggest getting oil shocks first though before anything else.

DieHarder

You want 2S. 3S might blow both the motor and ESC. Here is a nice lipo at a great price! You might as well get two of them since they're so cheap.

SPC - http://spcracingbatteries.com/index....&product_id=81

The crawler should get some electronic upgrades such as the Holmes Hobbies BR-XL and a 45T brushed motor. That would work really really nice with the R1. Then you can run 3S and have unlimited power/torque.

If you run the SPC lipos, you'll need a lipo compatible charger. What charger do you have?

Front Shocks - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCVFW&P=7

Rear Shocks - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVFY&P=7

Otherwise, Pro-line makes some really nice shocks.

Neil2704

Wow awesome guys. The r1 has a 55t in it that I'm pretty fond of. My dad has an identical with a 45t that's also a load of fun. The radio I got I am also running in the r1 so it's fully programmable as well. As for esc and Lipo I'm giving it some serious thought. Thanks for all the advice. I'm seriously considering going to lipo. The charger is no big deal to me. They are pretty cheap at my local hobby shop. I'll definitely get some shocks ordered up for the buggy. Thank you very much for the input.

Neil2704

I just ordered 6 of those 2s lipos lol. Damn that's cheap.

Edit-just put a pack through the buggy in the sand dunes. I wanted to see how the paddles did. The answer is very well until the motor got way to hot and full of sand and took a crap on me. So now I'm in the market for a motor as well lol. I'm definitely foing 2s Lipo, maybe a 12t or mild brushless?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Go brushless, man. A sealed-can brushless motor won't care about sand. Arrma makes a brushless version of that buggy with an Arrma-branded BLX system. I did a quick search and only was able to come up with the motor, not the combo with the ESC, but somebody must carry it. Slap that sucker in there and you'll have more power than you'll know what to do with. Or, I'd consider looking at a comparable system in the Hobbywing brand.

Neil2704

Yeah I think brushless is just going to have to be next. Shocks don't matter when I can steer but not move lol. Do I need to change my pinion or just run that pinion with the brushless and esc? The only brushless I've owned came that way so I'm not sure if they need to be set up different or what

DieHarder

Look on the spur gear and pinion gear for the tooth counts. If they are in the area of 20T pinion 87T spur, you should be in the right ballpark for a 3500-4000kv motor. I recommend a Hobbywing brushless system like Rob said. Here's a good one that will make that thing fly on those batteries you just bought:

EZ Run 60A/4000kv - http://www.hobbypartz.com/car.html

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, that combo would work well, but it is not the greatest value for its price. Here is what I think...

Motor; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...-roar-approved
ESC; http://www.ebay.com/itm/120A-Sensore...item3aace6b8f2
Sensor wire (just in case); http://www.atomikrc.com/products/ato...sor-wire-200mm

Neil2704

Hmm. Both seem decently priced. I'll read up on both and make my choice. Thanks for the advice both of you. Ultimately I want a pretty mild build. Not to fast. The longer the run time the better

RustyUs

Neil, I think you got a very good buggy there to make some great dirt roosts. Before jumping into "Big Bore" shock territory, I'd take a close look at some measurements first. I'm almost positive the ADX-10's shocks are not 12mm, nor is the opening on the front upper link large enough to handle big bore springs. A great alternative to those plastic shocks Arrma supplied on the ADX-10...
Team Associated RC10B4.2 RS 1:10 Buggy Shocks V2 Aluminum Body Front & Rear
But first, before throwing out any shocks, I would maybe try a one time rebuild of the stock shocks with some new o-rings (I'm assuming there is some in the lower seal cap?) lubed up with some Green Slime so as to not tear the new o-rings when inserting the shock shafts back into the lower seal cap. The Arrma manual for shock rebuilding is really vague and incorrect for getting the most out of the shocks. The way they have you doing the shock cap tightening will lead to too much internal pressure and the end result will be blown seals and/or the plastic caps coming off during a hard landing.

RustyUs

I see now, in an exploded parts view, O-ring Part #330022 are used in Arrma's lower seal cap for their shocks.

RustyUs

You probably already know how to build shocks, but just in case some lurker is wanting to know how to fill and bleed shocks:
Refill and bleed your Armma shocks the Associated (old) way...


Or, since Arrma's shocks have a lower seal cap, refill and bleed the Losi/Duratrax way...

Neil2704

Good call on the shock size rustyus, I am amazed just how resourceful and useful members are in this forum. I just got home from camping and unpacked. I took the air gun to the rigs and cleaned them up. The only motor I had kicking around was the stock 35t motor that came in my r1 so i threw that into the buggy quickly just so its still mobile. I imagine its embarrassingly slow though, lmao. I did notice my spur gear is half stripped while i had it apart so that's a bonus. At least i know now to order one when i order my motor. I have spent almost 1000 this month on my rc's lol... but so far on my list for next month is
probably this motor/esc combo
EZ Run 60A/4000kv - http://www.hobbypartz.com/car.html
spur gear of whatever tooth would go well with that motor. maybe a 20/87 like dieharder suggested
Potentially shocks for the buggy unless rebuilding them helps. and a whole bunch of stuff for the r1. I rebuilt the shocks, or rather built the shocks on my r1 today while i was camping. I pulled the caps off the shocks and it was bone dry in there so I slimed and lubed them up and they move alot smoother and faster now

DieHarder

You can move the camber over and space out the top of the shock to make it work, but finding 10mm off-road shocks is a little bit of a challenge. Most 10mm are for crawlers.

DieHarder

Pro-line's Power Stroke Slash shocks don't look bad and appear thin, but not sure how they measure up length-wise and if they're really less than 12mm.

Neil2704

thanks again dieharder. Small update, after spending about a grand on rc's this month I think that I need to slower down for a few weeks lol. So to get me mobile again I threw in my old 35t motor that came in my R1 and I am fairly mind boggled that it seems to perform the same as it did with the 15t. There may be a little less top end but it pulls just as hard as before and i was expecting it to be jogging speed at best. But when i have another payday or two ill be looking at a brushless setups, maybe some shocks, and i kind of have my eye on either
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXECKV**&P=0
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXECKUSS&P=0
my goal is by next spring to have two crawlers, and two bashers. It's always more fun to play with someone else and lots of people can't afford a hobby like this so I dont mind having two of each type so some one else can play too. Also it never hurts to have a backup in case one breaks during bashing. I have an attraction to the arrma products. I like how durable and bashable they are and they are affordable and look good. I used to run HPI savages through hell and back and always thought their metal twin side frame plates were why they were so durable and I love that arrma follows the same frame design. I like the buggy more than the truggy but im concerned about ground clearance for bashing on grass.

DieHarder

I'd get the Kraton, but that's just my tastes. They're pretty much the same.

RustyUs

Just out of curiosity, I had to go dig out the calipers for some measurements on shock bodies and springs off of my Associated SCT and buggy. I'm surprised that Arrma doesn't have upgrades for the ADX-10 shocks.

Associated (RS V2 10mm shocks)
Body diameter: 12mm
Spring diameter: 15.30mm

Associated Big Bores
Body diameter: 14mm
Spring diameter: 19.13

Neil2704

I have never once got the caliper out to measure my shocks before lol. Thanks for going to all the effort for me. As soon as some paydays roll in I'll be ordering up a storm.

RustyUs

Yeah I'm a dork like that. I whip them digital calipers out all the time when rebuilding shocks (collar adjustments, shaft/eyelet length) or when setting up cars to race (back in the day) or researching other manufacturers parts to use on my other brands of RC vehicles.

The Arrma ADX-10 uses the same arms/upper link as the Armma Raider. I just looked over a Raider build that used Team Durango's Fat Shocks on the Raider, but another brand (Losi?) of springs had to be used to squeeze through the Raider/ADX-10 upper "y" link.


The springs also had to be modified with heat shrink tubing (2 layers) to keep them from coming off the shock...too much modification for me, but the big bore thing is doable. I just don't like the unknowing of the durability issue of the springs popping off the collars and cups.

Shocks to me are my next most important item after tires. When running RCs on my track, the shocks get the biggest workout. The shafts are warm after a good hard run. I've never actually measured temps yet (or if its possible with a IR temp "gun") on the shafts, but I'm guessing the shock seals working overtime at keeping the dust particles off the shaft could be raising the temps. Most of the time 3 of the 4 tires are only touching the ground
; that's how rough of an off-road track I have, and why I have to rebuild shocks constantly (after every 10 runs or so).

Neil2704

That makes total sense. I was soooo close to buying a brushless and shocks for the adx10 but instead I left with bigger tires, stronger servo, and new piggy back shocks for my crawler. Guess I can only do up one at a time lol. I get paid again on Friday then it's brushless time and new shocks for the buggy. Aw hell I might go back tomorrow