Press

I have only used my rustler 5 times, but I think the motor is shot. When I press the acceleration I hear a high pitched winding sound and the wheels don't move. I'm very new to this so I'm not sure any help would be appreciated. If it is the motor what would be a better motor to upgrade too?

Thank you

Big Alice

Sounds like your pinion gear is loose.

The Saylors

Yep thats what it sounds like to me. My slash did this last weekend and the spur was missing every tooth. If you are concerned about your motor then unbolt it and turn it by hand. You will know immediately if it's bad. I'm willing to bet that the spur gear (the big black plastic gear that touches the motor gear (pinion gear) with the slipper underneath) is dead. If that is the case make sure to figure out why the failure happened in the first place. Mine blew because the spur gear shaft bearing in the transmission had exploded causing the shaft to wiggle back and forth ruining the spur and pinion gear mesh. If you wanted to upgrade motors you will be into a whole other can of worms lol. Cross that bridge when you come to it and of course we will help! Let us know what you find!

Press

It was the spur gear! The teeth were wore down and on the back I dunno what you call them they look like 3 metal pads, but they looked chewed up. I ordered a new spur. I appreciate the replies and really appreciated the detail description The Saylors. It helped a lot. Thanks! I will update after the spur comes in.

The Saylors

No problem! Those pads are the slipper clutch pads. They will look a little rough usually as they are pretty much a break pad type of substance. The biggest thing is that they still have some thickness to them. If they are paper thin or crumbling then you definitely wanna replace that too. Lucky for you its a very cheap part. The slipper kit will come with the pressure plate that the pads sit in and the "fly wheel" plate that they rub on. Its kinda fun to tinker on these things and they are pretty forgiving as far as accidentally breaking things so have at it! Also as a note watch a video on setting mesh properly as doing that step wrong will destroy the spur again among other things so take your time on that! Once you learn how to do it properly you will be set for life!

Big Alice

Maybe it's just me but I never buy just one spur gear. Land one jump wrong and you're back to waiting for parts. I hate waiting for parts.

The Saylors

Ya when i said my slash did it last week i bought three lol. they were only three bucks so why not.

Press

Thanks for the info Saylors. I should prolly replace the pads too then.

Your totally right. After I paid for it I was like crap I should have bought like 5.

Press

oh I wanted to ask what do you guys do to keep the top from flying off? I bought a roll cage not for that purpose, but it should keep the top on.

redneck6643

Maybe you stripped a gear. I'm no expert. Is it brushed or brushless. If it's a gear you should replace with a metal one. There about 25 dollars and will never break.

Press

was thinking the same thing. I'm looking at aluminum right now

redneck6643

Sounds good.

Press

yeah and its brushed, but when this motor goes ima swtich to velineon

redneck6643

Castle creation makes good motors too. They have motor and esc combos. The one I looked at was cheaper than the velinion. I'm going to put a castle creations combo in my bandit xl5. Also since your motors brushed you should look at a heat sink. Bastens side mount is the one I have on my bandit. It will work on brushless motors too. You can buy it on Amazon.

Press

kool ill look into the CC motor. The velineon has the esc combo too. let us know how you like the CC motor after you have a chance to try it. Will I still need to get a fan if I get the heat sink? I have a temperature gauge and the motor hasn't gotten to hot, but maybe with summer coming around it will.

redneck6643

It's said the heat sink will drop your motor temp by 10 degrees. Also I'm getting the cc motor sometime next month. I'm probably putting the same motor in my shorted out b 4.1. The cc is also waterproof on the esc and motor. Make sure you get the new 3 series. I heard it's better. The velinion is still fast though. The integy fans suck. The heat sink should be enough.

Press

From the little bit of research I just did it seems like the CC motor is favored over the velinion and is a little cheaper. Thanx bro I appreciate the help. I will go with the cc as well and get the bastens side mount. I wish it came in red or blue tho.

redneck6643

No only aluminum color. It's one of the best heat sinks around because it's not to wide for most motors. Fits very snug on my bandit. I've rolled and crashed it many times. Hasn't fallen off or moved. Just snaps on. No modding required. And your welcome!

FREEBIRD

It may be the slipper clutch is too loose. Pull the gearbox cover off and tighten the bolt with the spring some with the wrench that came with it. A brushless motor would be a good option.

Press

Sweet I like that. what kv CC motor did you decide on? I was thinking just go with the highest for the most speed.

thanks, I did try that but no luck

redneck6643

4600kv you get more torque with a lower kv motor

Press

This is what castle had to say about torque
A high power capable brushless motor in electrical engineering and physics terms, has unlimited torque. We live in “the real world” so technically for us that’s not totally true, but – a brushed motor has a torque level that due to its design has an upper limit, regardless of how much power is being applied to it. That limit is low enough that you can see it clearly on an average track On the other hand, a high power brushless motor’s limit to torque in an RC vehicle is not within the bounds of the motor itself so much, but rather falls on the ability of the battery to deliver current to it. We generally don’t describe these motors in terms of “one has more torque than the other”, but rather “the 7700Kv motor is faster and draws more current than a 5700Kv motor in the same vehicle”. It draws more current, because it’s making the car go faster and doing more work than the 5700 motor is. As long as the batteries used are very good at supplying current without an excess of voltage depression (low internal resistance is good) both motors will appear to have the same torque, even though one is much faster than the other. Battery technology is constantly improving, and the first thing you’ll notice when you use a very good battery pack (or perhaps trying a Lipo pack for the first time) with these systems is a more “punchy” feel when you accelerate. The faster you set up the car to go at full throttle, the more reliant you are on good batteries to flow that current into the motor and maintain acceleration performance. So think of torque as a function of battery capability only.

The Saylors

DON'T GO METAL ON THE SPUR GEAR! Trust me i learned the hard way and yes they do strip out while also blowing up a lot of other things down the chain. They are plastic for a very good reason for once lol. And yes if your worried about the slipper pads then just replace the whole thing as its cheap like i said. Be careful about what parts you go metal on as it can be a costly mistake if you do the wrong thing! I know it seems like metal should be the way to go but it transfers all the stress that it absorbs to the next weakest part. Flexibility is SOOOO important when it comes to these toys and saving money on parts. And castle does make good systems but i would take your time when choosing as you don't wanna waste $ on something that might not work for your truck. Personally i dont think i would ever buy a motor that was less than 3800kv unless i was working on a tiny "track only" buggy.

Press

Thanks Saylors that makes sense. I replaced the spur gear today and unfortunately it didnt fix the problem so im guessing it is the slipper clutch pads

The Saylors

Ya i would just do the slipper to be safe as its a part that wears out no matter what. The whole assembly is only a few bucks and i would check the little bearing in the spur gear as well. I keep a bag of standard bearings around so that when i find a questionable one i just replace it as the bearings are less than a dollar a piece. Pretty much if anything feels loose or sloppy then its in need of a closer look. One question when you spin the shaft that the spur usually rides do the wheels move with the spur and slipper assembly removed? That will let you know if the trans is ok, i doubt that is the case as that sounds like someone grinding up rocks when those gears die but it's always better to check.