Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

As the title says, yet another TF GS P47 build commencing.

I'm going to do a few things different on this one, for instance the retract gear will be relocated to the scale location by the addtion of a sub spar and other clevel tricks I've yet to design.

Colour scheme (what if it is natural metal with no colour?) will be based on the P47 Bubble top that is currently in the US hanger display at the Imperial War Museul at Duxford UK, had the chance to pore all over and photo up close last May when I was in the UK. Think it is a 56th FG ?

So far I have all the retract gear including mains, tail, tank, fittings and the Ultra Precision valve.

Need to get RX, servos, batteries oh and the G-62!!

As you can see from the pics this kit is huge.

pic 1: Hmmm nice box, bit heavy though

pic 2: ok lots of sticks here - if I tip it all out on my bench and squirt CA do you think it will work? No? Bugger!

pic 3: Now where did my little assistant go to? Ahhh there he is hiding behind the chair - in mischief mode as per normal

pic 4: Reference books all ready, still one on back order, wish it would bloody well hurry up, yeah yeah instant gratification personified!![:@]

hmmm must be lunch o'clock as my tum is grumbling.

catch you lot later

cheers
Peter

Kirk RC

My Feedback: (4)

Peter, Sounds great! I just started on my fuse. The wings are waiting bottom sheeting, took a break as I wait to receive my wheels. In hinging the vert & hor stabs I didnt feel the hinge blocks glued inside the structure gave enough bite. You may want to use a thicker diameter hinge block than the supplied 1/4x1/2. I really beefed up the retract area and cut additional doublers out of 3/16ply for ribs 5&6, reinforced the LE where ribs 5&6 mate and afew other areas as well. I also finalized on theZDZ 80, With 1" standoffs it should be a perfect fit. Lastly the servo hatche covers for ailerons and flaps is 1/16" ply and flex so I laminated the inside of the hatch covers, also the ribs that the servo hatch rails sit on I strengthed with 1/8" balsa sheet doublers length wise between the main spar and the inner TE. This should make it much easier to secure the bottom sheeting plus give a better/stronger boundery arond the hatch. Just a few ideas for you to consider..
Its Friday night here in the States so better make sure the hands are free of CA!
Cheers
Kirk

parkerspop

My Feedback: (1)

Peter,

Cute assistant you got there, he definitely has that aussie look to him. And you can tell that he is just thinking of what to get into next when you are not looking!

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

thanks Kirk, will have to have a look into the wing structure in depth as I will be doing a few mods.

As for the stab I'm not real happy with the standard hinging and placement, I'm actually going to move the hinges to scale locations and I may even insert a brass tube to drive both elevators off a single pivot poit as in the full size. All theories at this stage. One definite thing though is to radius the LE of the elevator and have little extensions of thin play from the TE of the stab, again as per the full size. I think this may help reduce any flutter tendencies.

As for the rudder I am going to use pull - pull cable and will epoxy an alum horn arangement right through the rudder.

Well have run out of glue so SFA to pick out of my fingers this time. Will have to wait till after pay day to get some more - monthly salary payments suck. At least my wife gets paid fortnightly.

No flying today (Sun) as it is bloody windy so the little TA (trade assistant) aka my son is running around into mischief which is all good fun !!

Anyway I'm off like arotten bowl of rice ( ever smelt that?)

cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Gday Parker,
yeah he is a cute one and aterrible flirt with all the girls too. What do you mean when I'm not looking? He gets into it even if I am!! No wonder we call him Mr Villian hehehe

anyway ciao for now
Peter

Kirk RC

My Feedback: (4)

Peter,
All wind and rain here so no flying all building. Got the top half of the fuse about 90% done. FYI Make sure you add more stringers to the fus from F5 forward or the fus sheeting will have concave spots. I also changed the stringers from F3 forward to spruce. Regards
Kirk

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Kirk,
noted, thanks for the advice - will watch out for that area. Have you read the build reviews on the Topflite website? Worth reading.
Also there is a Tech notice out on this kit so if you have not seen it you prob should.

cheers
Peter

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

Hi Pete
I have the same kit I purchased it about a year ago with plans to build it over the winter. But things change when I started traveling for my employer. So I hired a builder he will start build the Jug in November. Anyway I've been looking for a colour scheme and I see you have some reference books. I found a colour scheme of a P-47 bubble called eye candy with what looks like a varga girl on it. Have you seen this in any of the books you have? I sent a pic of a P-47 wall clock with the eye candy scheme on it. I found this in a Historic aviation catalog. What do you think.
Doug

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

According to a book I have, Eagles of Duxford, MX-X was named "No Guts No Glory" and not "Eye Candy". The plane belonged to the 82 FS and was piloted by Maj. Benjamin I. Mayo who was also the acting CO during June-Sept of 1944. Maj Mayo was also with the 84FS flying "No Guts No Glory" in the plane WZ-V.. The 78 FG was made up of the 82, 83 and 84 FS and all had the Checkered cowl starting around April of 1944. Many planes of the planes were not adorned with nose art like some P-47's of other FG's. Hope this helps.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Gday Doug,
mate have not seen that one in any of my refrences, have you tried a web search?

Good luck
cheers
Peter

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

Hi Pete
Yes I tried, BobH found some info on it and he believes the scheme is from eagles of Duxford. Also the plane was called No guts No glory. So I'm think the scheme eye candy is made up. Too bad thou it is a pretty catchy scheme. Pete and BobH thanks for the help.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I'm pretty sure the scheme was made up, albiet a nice one. There are some nice schemes in the 78FG and they have a web site. You can do a search and view the info there. good luck

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Doug,
I have actually got a few pics of that Duxford bird from when I was there last May, also have a lot of the camo version UN-N that is in the US hanger there.

Mind you "eye Candy" can park her stilletoes under my bed any time shhh don't tell me wife I said that hehehehe [8D]
cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Well a bit of progress last couple of days - helps top have rainy weather and 2 days off work!!

So as you can see from the series most of the stab and elevators are complete. Just top skin to glue on which will be done later tonight then the strips glued to Stab TE and ELEV LE, tip blocks on and shaped plus hinging.

One change I have to do is add the slight sweepback on the ELEV LE. IF you look at 3 views you will notice this.

TIP: When I was doing the jig cradles prior to flipping the assebly over I ponder how to secure it to my board ( Large interior door), pins were no good and as for using 3M glue - seems messy. anyway I used small cabinet nails through the ply jig cradle base. Secured them down very tight so should have no probs with warps etc.

oh yeah you eill probably notice that I forgot to install the hinge mount blocks in the elevators prior to sheeting - derr [>:][:@] easy fix!
Hoping to make a start on the fuz tomorrow.

cheers
Peter

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Peter, a little bit if trivia about the Duxford P-47. From what I have been able to tell their checker's are incorrect. The original 78Fg had the center top front checker in Black and the center front bottom checker in White. The Duxford plane has both the top and bottom center front checkers in black, which would be incorrect. I just found that interesting lol.

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

Hi Pete
You Dawg! I know what you mean. Got a question have you thought of how you what to power the receiver and servos. I was looking at a power box 40/24 from power box systems. It seems like this unit is for aerobatic planes but the unit would work great with any giant size planes. I like how the unit isolates the servo power from the receiver power and amplifies the signals for multiple servos controls. The unit is a little pricey but I think it is worth it. What is another $250. after you have a easy 1 to 2k in to a plane. I think of it as insurance. The P-47 was best known for survivability over the battle field. I think the power box will put survivability in to the P-47 at the fling field. This is the only system I've found I'm sure their is others dose anyone have any comments on the subject? BobH? As for the build it looks great I don't known what it is but a balsa frame on a building board brings a smile to my face. Let the sanding begin!!!

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I can't speak to having the power distributer but I know several guys flying the Miester P-47 (big!) and don't use it. My planes don't go any bigger than the Yellow Spit and the TF Giant Mustang and the Yellow P-47 (not yet finished). I'm only using the normal servo extensions with a 2000mah battery. So far I haven't had any problems and I doubt I will. The flight loads on planes of this size aren't that high from what I have learned. I also don't fly my planes like race planes so that may be a contributer..

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

I can see where you are coming from I my self don't plan on boring hole in the sky with the p-47 I want it to look as real as possible. My largest plane is a 87'' laser 200 with a 3w-75 I can do almost any maneuver in the book with it and I only use 1-1400 pack. I guess I'm only think of security. My builder is going to do alot of detail to the P-47 and I would not want to loose the plane to battery failure. I think that is one of the most common causes of RC planes crashes. I had it happen to me and now the first thing I do when getting to the field is check the battery level and before every flight after that. I 've been wanting to get in to scale for some time now because aerobatic's dosen't do it for me anymore. So I was thinking you my want to take extra percautions when building scale planes becuse so much detail goes in to them.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

thanks for that Bob, not a drama as i am doing the camo one. However having said that, if you modelled a plane on the actual duxford version and documented it with pics etc then in a conest you would be 100% correct regardless of whether the duxford boys got it wrong!

cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Doug good points and I have been giving it some thought. I will prob use something along the lines of a power box if I can. As all my flying controls except flap will use digital servos the current drain, especially at 6V will be quite high though no where near as bad as those 3D types (nearly said idiots hehe).

Truth be said the weakest point in the whole system we currently use is the RX bus bar. If you fed everything off a seperate bus then you get rid of a lot of potential probs, oh and the use of paralel batteries using separte switches and min 22 AWG wire helps too.

My battery packs and set up will most likely be of a 3600mAh Sub C NiMH main pack with a 1100mAh AA NiMH backup feeding a little circuit that monitors the main pack voltage and if it drops below a threshold the stby cuts in and sounds an alarm.

Unfortunaly Mr Ohm was correct with E=IR !! gee my Uni lecturer would be impressed I remembered something from 4 years of effort hehehe

cheers
Peter

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

doug, I understand your concern and I would advise doing any thing that gives you sufficient confidence in your system. After all it may be cheap insurance!
Peter, You are correct that if you documented the Duxford plane and then copied it for competition you would be fine. What that example points out is (to me any way) is that Museums are not infallible as many people assume.

Kirk RC

My Feedback: (4)

Guys...
This plane is BIG, I finished the top fuse,sheeted, sanded etc and all the stringers on the bottom. Also really beefed up the motor box, firewall and doublers. The difference in size when you add the bottom formers and stringers is quite apparent. Peter- I found the bottom of the fuse also needs additional stringers plus I substituted spruce for three of the balsa ones. Now for the good news! The ZDZ 80 fits perfect!! With the 3 piece motormount that Chief RC has you dont need to cut a big hole in the firewall for the carb and the prop backplate extends 1/2" past the cowl. With a 26" prop it will have that scale "fan" look when that big prop rotates. Tomarrow finish sheeting the fuse.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

excellent Kirk, wish I had that much done.

Did a bit of work Sat morning but it was way too hot and humid to do much more as we had 39C that day.

Have completed the stab and elevators but have not shaped the Elev LE, in fact I will not be using the bevel shape but will use a radius and then will use a thin piece of ply to extend from the stab TE over the airgap as per the full size. Fin and rudder will be the same set up.


So have now also built the fin and rudder just prior to sheeting, the skins are done, just have to glue them on then that lovely job of sanding etc. yuk Though the razor plane and bar sander make easy work of it.

One thing you guys may like to look at is the following link for scale fowler flap hinges by Robart - yummo got to have a set of these!

[link=http://www.robart.com/Hinge.aspx]Robart specialty hinges[/link]

cheers
Peter

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Peter, I think those hinges are for the Robart P-38, which never went into production. Its a prefab version of the Ziroli P-38. Those might work but it would depend on the thickness of the hinge vs the wing. As kewl as fowler flaps are the Jug doesn't really need them. With the exception of the Aerotech kit, most P-47's (including the Yellow) aren't exact enough scale to warrant the extra work. That's just my 2 cents. In fact you might be able to purchase the Fowler mechanism from Aerotech? Might be worth a try if you really want it.

Kirk RC

My Feedback: (4)

Fowler flaps--that would be cool. The Barn door flaps on the 1/7th scale work out just fine so I will stick with those. Peter- keep us advised on the flaps. My fuse is now all done! I half expected the EPA to show up with a dirty air citation for all the balsa dust. Make sure you put in thoses extra stringers, I doubled the number. If not I dont know how you will get the fuse round, the balsa sheet will flex and scallop. Also I will wait to put on the dorsal fin untill I mate the wing to the fuse. The fin will just get in the way and make it impossible to get the fuse level upsidedown in my cradle. Now its time to finish bottom sheeting the wing, cut out the controll surfaces, wing tips and sand sand sand.
Peter sounds like you guys are cooking down under. We now have 4-5' of snow in the mountains out west here in the states. Time to bring the Ski's into the shop and get ready to hit the slopes!!!
Kirk