expresscraft

just sharing after 20 years of making boat hulls, we are sellin about 2 out of every 10 hulls for electric, pretty cool since our boats like the super cat here is 60" hope you like it the customer provided the motor and mount, it has a top secret rudder and strut he is doing the rest, the motor is a 75mm leopard

Matt1583

what kind of speeds is he expecting out of this thin?  you know anymore details about his setup? i love the 60" mti what would it cost to get one with the drive tube installed?

martno1fan

Which leopard motor is that i thought they only went upto 56 series ie 56 mm dia.Im planning a twin build in my 58 Apache with two 5694 inrunners similar to the leopards.
Mart

Johnnysplits

Leopard 5698 is the largest i've seen

martno1fan

Me too m8

siberianhusky

It's a 56 x someting (82?) Leopard.
Show how many people actually look at pictures before popping in with their 2 cents!
You think it would be easy enough to open up the picture and read the cooler!
The guy is a nitro or gas dude, he isn't going to know the technical aspects of motor naming!
BTW sweet looking cat!

martno1fan

So going by what you said then you should be able to read the 75 mm part ? lol.Ive never heard of a 75 mm leopard that is why i asked the question politeley, i think you need to take a chill pill mate or maybe you just need to get out more .
Mart

NobodyFamous

the 75mm is the length of the water jacket, I'd say it's a 5682 or 5692

expresscraft

Well,sorry I did not get back to this thread and respond,Now i have a 60" MTI to build, I'm kicking tires right now. I do have a commitment from the customer,as he has made a deposit on the build, I'm thinking 2/ castle ice 200hv and 2/ 2028 motors powered with 10s each with 457 L&R props, we are looking for as much speed as possible but he is not dropping 600-700 or more on motors and 900 on esc's, so this is a far as we will spend, my question is, for less money the swordfish 300 amp esc and there are some bigger motors,we are kind of set on 10s as well.my concern is more in the performance of the 2028, I have gathered it's a great combo, I am worried its not enough to push this boat to a real fast speed,would like a 700-800kv motor.fed back would be great, thanks

martno1fan

Nothing wrong with castle motors but theyre expensive,so i supose its down to what you want to spend but people are getting good results with much cheaper motors.Like ive said before Pate built one of my 58 apaches using cheap hi model outrunners costing $50 each on just 6s and was running,is running 50+ mph.I think two leopard 5692 or the similar 5694 inrunners would push a big boat even better 65+ easy even on 6-8 s.
Im no expert on electric setups but this is the setup im planning on using in a 9lb carbon apache or arrow hull and im sure ill get the speed im looking for.
Mart

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

Tom, you could try these motors and less than $100 each, on a Sordfish 240HV esc
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ess_Motor.html
I have one to run in my DF39 on 6s
you can run a Y or D wind with them.. two different kvs from these motors for different applications

picture next to my PMono motor (4092 Leopard)
this motor is a 56x102

expresscraft

we are looking for as much speed as possible, and I think we are set on the 10s batteries for power,i guess what im after is feedback on more power for less money then the castle option that he is willing to pay for.but if the swordfish 300 amp esc is good, and less money. or the other cheaper motors are good and less money, I certainly want to consider them,at the same time i do not want to make something work or be cutting corners that will jeopardize the the finished build.and i want at least the power that the 2028's will give.

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

hard to have big power for only a few bucks...

the motors I listed above have great power and less than $100 each that can run on 10s and use the Sordfish 240HV esc

expresscraft

I don't mind spending what is needed, that said there is a point where you spend a lot more money for just a little more performance.And if we where racing where every slight edge justified hotel rooms, long drives and countless time invested.then its money well spent, but for a cool big play boat, we just dont need 900.00 speed controls,I did however buy 2 of the castle ice 200HV esc. with the checking ive been doing the swordfish is getting mixed feedback, most is good however,But from the hobby shop I'm familiar with castles service and it's pretty good,plus they do not over rate there products, so the 12s that they are rated for should be plenty on this 10s application.And I found some in stock. We just finished the MTI that was ahead of this one, and we will be starting on this build today. I will be posting my build and looking forward to the much needed advice.

Got RPM

I think you made a good choice on the Castles Tom. I have used Castles almost exclusively (except for a couple Schulzes) for years with no problems which were not self inflicted. Some things to keep in mind:

- No ESC likes to get wet. I've seen too many ESCs run which were not fully dried out - they usually fried.
- Keep the wiring as short as practical. Ideally the wires from the ESC to the battery packs should be no more than 8" long - that's from the ESC board to the battery cell. Longer just stresses the ESC.
- Use 8mm gold bullet connectors. These have minimal voltage loss and are strong.
- Use the correct timing advance. This depends on the motor wind and the amp draw. Too much or too little timing will overheat the ESC.


Good luck!




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expresscraft

thanks for the info, I'm going to walk this build through from start to finish,I hope you guys will watch and post, im going to need some help along the way on this electric build, we waxed the molds yesterday,But like always in Fla. We got rain, so we waited until today to spray.we use a hi temp release wax,we try to get a even layer of gel coat sprayed at 17 mills.

tc4 drft

Not to take away for the knowledge on these forums, but for big twin cat setups, take a look at the offshoreelectrics forums. There are some incredible builds going on over there that you just dont see on this forum. I was quite amazed. Not Dis'n RCU at all...FYI!!! If I ever burn out my Leo 5698, I will also be taking a look the th Turnigy/TCPower motors. From the few builds Ive read on OSE forums that are using them, they are quite the bang for the buck.

expresscraft

i have this same build going on over on OSE, they have been pretty helpful. thanks for the info. i hope everyone enjoys this thread as well.

diy-pro

I know im late but thats a 5698 and man I hate the cowls on gas boats!!! Hope you have a low pro for electric lol. And I have a question guys the turnigy aquastar with d and y config. does it use the same winds for power just different contact points in the wind itself which differentiates the config? Id like to know so i could try winding like that w/o loosing efficiency.

expresscraft

low pro for electric might be cool, but not scale. DIFFERENT PLAYGROUND. But i am cutting the deck down on this build

martno1fan

Hi Tom you need a sub hatch under the cowl ,sub hatch cover can then be taped on for sealing and the real cowl installed on top.The Razor hulls have a flat carbon cover for this purpose,no reason you cant do the same and the orriginal hatch can be fitted over the top ,this is how i intend doing my electric Apache or Arrow build havent decided which one yet lol.
Mart

diy-pro

I understand keeping it to scale but thats not scale lol

expresscraft

The 1st boat pictured is a supercat, and not a MTI. the boat that is being built is a MTI and its pretty scale.Hey mart the MTI hatch tapes down very nice.

expresscraft

ok, i have a perfect set of deck and hull laid up, now im ready for the cut down, the semper fi MTI is the motivation behind this move, plus it looks cool. hope my test rat turns out as good as the real boat when they cut theres down.

expresscraft

the cut down is going well,