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Aquacraft Revolt 30

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Old 08-15-2012, 09:09 AM
  #76
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

anyone else buring up the motor with the stock set up on this boat? I am on #2

my amp meter registered a 52 amp max draw do the boat is not over proped or setup with the prop too low in the water.
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:12 AM
  #77
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: diy-pro

next time post a link you goob. I tried finding yours and i found a cheaper one for 18.58!!! [img][/img]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...at=0&_from=R40

120968806965 Item number on eaby
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:20 AM
  #78
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: hobby_man

anyone else buring up the motor with the stock set up on this boat? I am on #2

my amp meter registered a 52 amp max draw do the boat is not over proped or setup with the prop too low in the water.

Did you open up the water inlet on the rudder blade? Maybe you are not getting enough cooling?

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Old 08-15-2012, 11:05 AM
  #79
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

you mean modify the stock rudder? NO I have not touched the boat it's stock. I got it for my grandson as a no mees with always runs boat.

speed cost money and time and I do not want to ruin his fun by getting him into my FE boating world
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:19 PM
  #80
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

There lies your problem sir. Check the Aquacraft website for an addenum about 2 issues with this boat. 1. water inlet 2. removal of glue from shipping tape on the hatch/canopy

The water inlet on the rudder needs to be opened up and elongated to allow more water flow through the cooling system. I used my dremel and a round jewelers file to open up and extend the water inlet cooling hole on the rudder (towards the leading edge of the rudder)

I also found ALOT of aluminum shavings inside the cooling inlet hole on the rudder (from when it was drilled out at the factory in China) which would have surely clogged or blocked the entire cooling system

Good luck sir! And keep us posted.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:31 PM
  #81
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Wavekatcher

There lies your problem sir. Check the Aquacraft website for an addenum about 2 issues with this boat. 1. water inlet 2. removal of glue from shipping tape on the hatch/canopy

The water inlet on the rudder needs to be opened up and elongated to allow more water flow through the cooling system. I used my dremel and a round jewelers file to open up and extend the water inlet cooling hole on the rudder (towards the leading edge of the rudder)

I also found A LOT of aluminum shavings inside the cooling inlet hole on the rudder (from when it was drilled out at the factory in China) which would have surely clogged or blocked the entire cooling system

Good luck sir! And keep us posted.[img][/img]

WOW, I have to wonder why Aquacraft did not fix the issue the last time they replaced the motor for me, its in the shop now for its 2nd motor.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:44 PM
  #82
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

I just read the tech note at the aquacraft web site. I registered the boat, so they know I own it, this memo should have been sent out to all registered owners ***?

I felt bad about the motor frying, I just got over that!

A _ick head move by some 24 year old marketing idiot at Aquacraft!

This pisses me off, I called the tech's and told them over and over that this boat is getting too hot! they blew me off!
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:47 PM
  #83
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Maybe call them and tell them you just found out about the issue. They should have included a hard copy of the issues needing attention with the manual.

The chimps doing the fix probably have no idea about the water inlet, nor will they have the tools (or knowledge) to fix it.

The only way I knew about it is by wasting my time on these forums
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:51 PM
  #84
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: hobby_man

I just read the tech note at the aquacraft web site. I registered the boat, so they know I own it, this memo should have been sent out to all registered owners ***?

I felt bad about the motor frying, I just got over that!

A _ick head move by some 24 year old marketing idiot at Aquacraft!

This pisses me off, I called the tech's and told them over and over that this boat is getting too hot! they blew me off!
My 1st revolt had serious alignment issues with the motor and stuffing tube/flex shaft alignment. I called Hobbico and the tech guy said "its fine to run it that way as long as the shaft isn't rubbing the brass tube" BS, I sent it back to Tower and they sent a replacement.

The replacement still isn't aligned perfect. Aquacraft has drunk chimps building these boats.

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Old 08-22-2012, 08:46 AM
  #85
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

well I am sending this Revolt boat back for repairs, the 3rd time

first time was a motor/speed control replaced
second time same
third time same, I think

I have had this boat 10 weeks, I got it when it first came out. I called the tech's complaining about how hot the boat got and was told not to worry about it, its fine
Then Aquacraft comes out with a tech update on their web site to modify the rudder intake hole which I was told by someone on this site.
I registered the boat they never contacted me AND while the boat was in for repairs the 2nd time Aquacraft did not update the rudder that they are telling us to do.

Now the boat is going back the 3rd time for what I think is the motor burn out. The boat quit and then the motor was herkey jerky for a turn and then quit turning. The speed control will not arm.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:10 PM
  #86
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

very strange................
I just got mine from Tower, and everything is perfect on my Revolt30
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:06 AM
  #87
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: srt10

very strange................
I just got mine from Tower, and everything is perfect on my Revolt30

did it come with the slot in the rudder opened up? If not see the tech note on the aquacraft web site.
I am running mine with a pair of 2s 10,000 mah lipos,

try running the boat for 7 minutes straight, you can fry an egg on the motor and the solder joints on the bullets let loose and the wires melt the foam on the hatch.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:11 AM
  #88
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

rudder looks nice and clean I'll try and get a picture for you today..
looks on modded

what prop are you running?
also what is your CG at?
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:34 AM
  #89
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

My boat is stock, so it would be the 42x55 grimm

I don' know the CG off the top of my head, what are you running for a CG?
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:15 AM
  #90
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Well, yes. Running for 7 minutes straight will straight up ruin most setups in a FE  boat setup to run on the edge. I f running 7 straight minutes is your goal, then you need to prop down, alot.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:32 AM
  #91
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


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ORIGINAL: stuball56

Well, yes. Running for 7 minutes straight will straight up ruin most setups in a FE boat setup to run on the edge. I f running 7 straight minutes is your goal, then you need to prop down, alot.
stock this boat is not on the edge with a 42x55 prop
this boat should be able to run 7 minutes without any issues, so something else is up.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:49 AM
  #92
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: stuball56

Well, yes. Running for 7 minutes straight will straight up ruin most setups in a FE boat setup to run on the edge. I f running 7 straight minutes is your goal, then you need to prop down, alot.

it's a stock out of the box boat! So it not running on the edge!
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:58 AM
  #93
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Well, when mine was "stock" it got quite hot after 4 1/2 minutes straight out running. So I changed the esc, wires, and bullets. Now I run a GR 42-55 with a Aquastar 120 and 5.5 battery connectors and 6mm on the motor. Still gets mighty warm after 3 or 4 minutes of hot laps. I don't question that you have a problem, just commenting is all.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:50 AM
  #94
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


Quote:
ORIGINAL: stuball56

Well, when mine was ''stock'' it got quite hot after 4 1/2 minutes straight out running. So I changed the esc, wires, and bullets. Now I run a GR 42-55 with a Aquastar 120 and 5.5 battery connectors and 6mm on the motor. Still gets mighty warm after 3 or 4 minutes of hot laps. I don't question that you have a problem, just commenting is all.

I Understand, sorry just a little miffed with this boat, I spent last summer with a Traxxas Spartan. It took me some time to get all the bugs out of it.
I figured I would leave this unit stock and it would run,,,NOT
I had not opened up the hole on the side of the rudder until I got it back from the 2nd repair, which they resoldered the bullets, I belive the motor was bad so when I ran the boat for 3 minutes the 3rd time it died. It wasnt the bullets.
I did note more water coming out the exit tube and the motor inside of the boat was cooler when I first opened the hatch. Cooler than in the past. In the past blue smoke would come out when I opened the hatch, blue smoke = burning winding
If Aquacraft would have replaced the motor the 2nd time and I did the rudder mod I believe the boat would have run fine.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:51 AM
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Ya, I hear ya though. When I got my first FE boat, a Motley Crew, it was in such need of "fixup" that I almost quit the hobby before I got started. Now my MC is quite heavily "modded" and I love love love it.
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:10 PM
  #96
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Mine had a faulty rudder to start with. Water cooling hole was drilled but not all the way through. In other words, no water was going thru to cool the motor or ESC. Luckily I caught it after the first run, it was smoking hot after a 3 minute run.. Emailed Aquacraft about it and they blew me off. I sent it back to my LHS to deal with them directly. Definitely disappointed about the customer service; I have had way better experiences with Horizon and my Proboat models.
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:52 PM
  #97
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Never had an issues with AQ customer service
IMO, the best around
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:02 AM
  #98
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Hey, I have a question about my lipos for my Revolt 30. I have 2 of the 2 of the GrimRacer 7.4V, 5000 mAh batteries. Attached is a picture of my charger while charging and a picture of my meter immediately after charging. How is it possible for each cell to be over 3.7V?? Why does my charger show 8.16V while charging?? I removed the battereies from the charger as soon as they were complete. My meter showed both batteries charged up to 99%.

Please help me understand, thanks!!
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:19 AM
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30


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ORIGINAL: Brad Mc

Hey, I have a question about my lipos for my Revolt 30. I have 2 of the 2 of the GrimRacer 7.4V, 5000 mAh batteries. Attached is a picture of my charger while charging and a picture of my meter immediately after charging. How is it possible for each cell to be over 3.7V?? Why does my charger show 8.16V while charging?? I removed the battereies from the charger as soon as they were complete. My meter showed both batteries charged up to 99%.

Please help me understand, thanks!!

each cell of any lipo battery shows a voltage of 4.2 when charged
each cell should be at 4.2 so the cells are balanced/charged, if you get one cell at 4.2/4.19 or so and the other cell only gets to 4.0/4.01 the cells are off
you should follow the 80% rule, do not discharge any more than 80% of the batteries capacity
5000mah x .8 = 4000 you should see about 4000 mah being charged back into the battery
at the 80% discharge your cells will be about 3.6 volts each
if you over discharge the battery, say you take 5200 mah out of the battery your cells could drop below 3.0 volts and then the charger will give you a low voltage error and it will not charge them capacity
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:25 AM
  #100
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Default RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30

Ok, thanks Hobby Man!

I'm in good shape. Yes, I always stick to the 80% rule.

Thanks again.
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