MassiveOverkill

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Px4FBO54g0

$150, yes it's plastic. Thoughts?

I would have gone with the Offshore Warrior (or even the Offshore Warrior Lite at its price).

The one I'm about to pull the trigger on supposedly comes with lipo and charger (important as that's about 50 bucks I don't have to spend, as this is already 50 bucks over my cheap-ass budget).

My review:

I haven't been able to run her yet as a grub screw was left off the drive dog and I need to go pick one up (glad I tested her in the tub first).

Pictures:

Here you can see the missing grub screw as well as the drain plug on the upper hull::

Size comparison to my Double Horse 7009:

Reciever is a 4 Channel:

Water-proof O ring:

Water cooled ESC:

Hull thickness is a about 3mm

Perfect candidate for a straight shaft with flex end:

Brushless outrunner:

Inside Rear:

Inside Front:

Motor water block:

Accesories include the 2.4 Ghz Tx, 1800 mAH 3S lipo, spare prop and canopy gasket, 2 allen wrenches, and lip charger with AC wall plug as well as DC alligator clips:

Included Lipo charger:

Charge ports for 3S and 2S:

DC input:

Guts:

Self-righting test. I can only see her not self-righting in a a freak turnover in glassy conditions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSALc...ature=youtu.be

Hopefully it won't be hard to find a grub screw for the drive dog and do a video run.

I had to make a lexan cover which Joysway forgot to include (it's on their other models) which helps seal the cowl:

Wavekatcher

Hey Massive!

I went ahead and ordered myself, oops,......... I mean my 3 year old son, one of these. I can't let you have all the fun by yourself. Keep us updated on when you get to do the maiden voyage for yours. I bought mine from ALLeRC.com, which is where I buy all my Hyperion batteries from.

Regards, Wavekatcher

MassiveOverkill

I guess we'll be the Guinea pigs.I responded on the other forum as well. I now have to start making a rig for my Double Horse 7009 so it can serve as my recovery boat

MassiveOverkill

Apparently this goes under the rebrand 2Fast2Fun as well (parts list):

http://www.cbiz.se/Hobby/B%C3%A5tar/...000011524.aspx

Found some better pictures:

http://www.morfars.dk/rc/boat-super-...ml?language=en

Looks like some water-proofing is in order.

The water cooling exit is the standard location, but I can't for the life of me see where the pickup is.  It doesn't look like it's on the rudder.  I do see something small on the bottom of the V near the back.

This looks like it would be easy to covert to straight shaft if that stuffing tube isn't already straight:

http://www.hobbyqueenitalia.com/publ...8209_4.JPG.png

SoerenJensen

Hello, I have bought the Super Mono X, it's the 2fast2fun version, I saw it in my local hobbyshop, and thought that could be a fun little boat to have some fun with.
I'm normally to cars, but this thing is a blast, there is a nice little outrunner motor in there, watercooled, intake at the rear.

Regards from Denmark.

Søren

MassiveOverkill

Soeren, have you flipped it yet? Is it self-righting? Does the mainshaft look like it's curved at all or completely straight (at least in the stuffing tube)? Any problems with other 2.4Ghz controllers in the area causing you to lose control?Did yours come with charger and lipo or did you have to buy that seperately?How thick is the plastic hull? Does it take on much water? Sorry for all the questions.Thanks.

SoerenJensen

Hi, no worries, I'll try to answer the best way I can, just remember that I'm not experienced in RC boats.

-I have tried to flip it;-), but it always turns the right side up, no matter what.
-The mainshaft does look to be straight from the motor to the prop, sort of "direct drive".
-No problems with the transmitter, the battery on mine is a 9V, just make sure that it's fresh.
-There was no battery and charger in the kit, I paid approx. 120USD for the boat.
-It's difficult to measure the hull, my guess will be 2mm.(about 0.08"??), but it seems to be wellbuildt and strong.
-There's only a small amount of water after a session, but all the internal electrics is labelled "water-proof".

Don't be to hard on my spelling, I'm Danish!

Regards Søren

MassiveOverkill

Thanks alot Soren. Your English spelling is better than most native tongues.

MassiveOverkill

Just confirmed that this indeed does come with lipo and charger from EmpireRC

the nitro way

just a tip your boat is as good a you treat it

MassiveOverkill

OK guys, please help me pick a spare battery(batteries). I read the sticky already.I know I have to go 11.1V 3S and at least 25C.

Going higher than 25C has no downfalls? The stock ESC is only rated at 20 amps. Going higher discharge rate could blow my ESC or is that a function of the brushless motor? I want to get a 5000 mah capacity, but bang for the buck is important so I'm not opposed to getting multiple lower mah batteries.

I'm not racing, but want the best bang for the buck lipo. Any suggestions?

Oh yeah, if the ESC has a lipo\NiMH switch, Ishould be able to run NiMH but it obviously won't be as fast?

Goldenduff

You multiply the battery mah by C to get max amp output so a 2500mah 10C lipo can deliver the same amps as a 5000mah 5C lipo.

MassiveOverkill

Thanks Goldenduff.

MassiveOverkill

I updated the first post with my review (unfished until I can get a grub screw).

MassiveOverkill

I managed to find a grub screw, grind it down and I'm waiting for the loctite to dry.

Here's my idea to convert my flex shaft to semi-straight:

Brass tubing to replace a section of the teflon tube:

Cut off a section of the teflon tube to support the end going to the motor and replace the majority of the teflon tube with the brass:

The idea here is that since my setup doesn't have a curved brass tube, but a stainless straight stuffing tube, I don't need flex but at the very end where it meets the motor. By eliminating the middle part of the teflon tube, and replacing it with brass tube, which is free to spin with the flex cable, you eliminate alot of the friction of the flexshaft rubbing in the teflon tube. Only the ends would have to be lubricated intstead of the whole shaft. I could place a lubrication port just in front of the teflon tube at the rear, and the front teflon tube I should be able to pull out and lubricate without having to take it apart.

What do you think?

Here she is completed:

It doesn't even touch the stuffing tube sides when installed.........I may just leave it free-floating at the motor end:

MassiveOverkill

So I took her for her first run today, she's freakin fast, just like in the first video.  Unfortunately just as I was bringing her to shore she lost power. 

This is the reason why:

Bearing completely seized up and disintegrated.  I ordered some ceramic replacements from Boca Bearings.  I suspect the stock bearings were never lubricated in the first place.  I normally do lubricate my bearings as routine maintenence, but never on a first run as they should be lubricated from the factory....lesson learned. 

So I looked up the model number for the replacement motor and it shows up as CF2812.  I look this up and it's very common:

http://www.valuehobby.com/emax-cf2812-outrunner.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_1534kv.html

Apparently it has a great power-to-weight ratio but the bearings are cheap as others have stated.

I can't believe the price though, 8 bucks?!

If the motor lasts with the new boca bearings I ordered it may be worth it to just buy a few as spares.  If not, I guess I'll have to rig up a new mounting system and go with a better setup.

Bearings will be here later this week, and hopefully no more gremlins will arise so I can take a proper video.  I wish I had recorded the first run, but wanted to take it easy for the first few runs to test her out.   I did get a couple of WOT passes and she moves really well and handles good.

MassiveOverkill

She's up and running again.  Recieved my Boca ceramic bearings and Grayson Hobby Gold 2200 mAh 30C Lipo.  After the run, the ESC was warm, but the motor water block was hot to the touch.  I have plenty of flex clearance and the flex shaft only touches where the smooth shaft near the prop is inserted into the 1 inch teflon tube.  I strongly suggest anyone buying this boat replace the stock bearings.

The Boca ceramic bearings I used are:

SMR693C-YZZ #5 NB2 BG (3x8x4) MM
SMR73C-YZZ AF2 BG (3x7x3) MM

Grayson Battery:

http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...ck-p-1467.html

Stock battery weight was 138 grams and the Grayson is 179 grams, and I think the added weight makes the boat completely self-righting.

You can see the boat do flips twice in the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu3pqnpnQew

Other than the bearing issue, I'm really impressed with this boat.  She handles really well and doesn't take on too much water after my lexan cowl mod.    

MassiveOverkill

Got my spare motors in. The stock one is definately wound with heavier gauge with less turns. The replacement motor also has 14 magnets as opposed to the stock 8.

I also decided to add a small piece of the orginal teflon tube at the motor end of the stuffing tube.

carlosam

Then MassiveOverkillM

I really liked their changes

What is the size of the propeller to this engine in 2812 (diameter and pitch).

You also put a higher capacity battery, and how many minutes to play gave;

MassiveOverkill

The prop diameter is 30mm. I don't know about pitch.

I'm guessing this is the prop: http://www2.ripmax.net/Item.aspx?Ite...Category=Z2400

I've only put 1 run on each of the Grayson 2200 mAh lipos I bought and want to go easy on them for the first few charges before testing their limits. In my video when I brought her in, Iguess I should have checked voltage, but it didn't seem like the power was really dropping off, and that was at 4 minutes. I was more concerned with the running gear being able to handle the speed at the time.

carlosam

Thank you,
This is a good review.
Don't forget to go posting the progress.

MassiveOverkill

Thanks. The prop pitch is most likely 42mm or 1.65"

I'm going to upgrade to a .130 Octora flexshaft

Using this calculator with my ESC maxxed out at 20 amps, the minimum run time I should get with the Grayson 2200 packs is 6.6 minutes, which is pretty good if I'm doing WOT the whole time:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm

I put my specs in there and it matches the manufacturer's speed rating fo about 30mph

MassiveOverkill

Nice (I actually had the opportunity to test this 3 times today and it worked)::

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywor...eature=related

MassiveOverkill

Well, some bad news.  I burned up the ESC.  My lake is big enough that I can go WOT pretty much constantly.  I burned 2 MOSFETS.  I've read about the warnings about the cheap ESC's so I was prepared, just didn't think it would happen this soon.  I don't think others will have short term problems, unless you have enough space to do a continuous WOT run like I do.  I'll probably get a Seaking 60 or 90 amp replacement. 

I plan on rebuilding the stock one as a spare or throw it in my little Double Horse 7009 with the spare 2812's I got.

Here are some pictures of the ESC post mortem (it was a PITA to get the epoxied casing off):

ESC with capacitor:

Here you can see the upper right and lower left FETS are burnt:

Water block:

Backside of ESC:

Specs on MOSFETS:

http://alltransistors.com/mosfet/tra...ansistor=13159

Rocket City Racing carries the Seaking and they're close so hopefully I'll be back up and running this week.

Oh, my brushless water cooler is nice and cool now.  The boca ceramic bearings shipping grease was probably too viscous.  A shot of light oil and no more heat buildup.

MassiveOverkill

How Joysway takes a 1600KV CF2812 motor and turns it into a 3300KV motor:

Left motor is a standard CF2812 brushless.  Right is Joysway frankenbrushless that I can't find anywhere.  They removed 6 magnets (14 on left, 8 on right) and beefed up the gauge of the windings:

Motors put back together:

Windings of the stock Joysway Frankenbrushless:

which will lead me to another post about what timing I should use on my ESC