mocars2

So you have a 550 in the Torando now - with the direct drive and water cooling - is it just on the motor?

What have you done to this boat and what have you clocked it at?

gulfstreamI

It's cooling for the motor's brushes & the motor can. The direct drive system comes original with the Nikko Tornado boat.

Here's a pic of the boat's mini relays (ESC equivalent in the Nikko). One for forward, the other for reverse.

mocars2

I love the wake these boat lay out.
Have you changed the prop yet? How hot does this ESC type run with 9.6V - since you fried the RS one?

mocars2

You say - I've never tried using 14 volts on this boat, I seriously think this is the maximum power (9.6 volts) that this boat's ESC can handle.
You also have to ditch that battery cover to fit those extra cells. Water cooling the ESC at this point is a Must!



Have youmade the water cooling for the ESC on the RS boats yet? If so, let see what it looks like.

gulfstreamI

Here's a file photo shot of the RS Gamma Ray , Gear drive propulsion, ESC type, RS 550 motor, 7.2 volt (6 sub C cells) & 35 mm modified prop with a more agressive pitch.

Second photo : Nikko Tornado with Relay type speed control, Direct drive propulsion, RS 550 motor, 7.2 Volt (6 standard C cells + 4 AA cells for the receiver) & 37 mm stock prop. This boat's handicap is it's weight in batteries!

Third photo: Prop changed from stock 37 mm to 40 mm size with a more agressive pitch. This prop added 2.4 MPH extra speed to the boat.

gulfstreamI

mocars,

Here's some pics of the 8 cell brick pattern (9.6 volts) that I'm using on the RS Gamma Ray. Also the micro-cooling fan I installed next to the stock ESC to keep the temps down.

mocars2

Nikko Tornado - so what's it's top apeed with the 550 motor, new prop and 6 cells?

gulfstreamI

Still slow... 9.8 MPH with the GPS reading. Well at least it's better than7.4 MPH with the stock prop. I think it's time to add one more cell to increase the speed .

GulfstreamI

gulfstreamI

mocars2,

Here's the latest work I've done to watercool the stock ESC on the RS Tsunami.

I drilled the ESC's aluminum heatsinks & inserted four 5/32" aluminum tubes & connected them with appropriate lengths of silicone fuel tubes.

I also watercooled the RS Tsunami's motor can by installing 5/32 " aluminum tubes on both sides of of the motor heatsink. The brushless microfan I installed eariler to cool the ESC was also retained. Now the RS Tsunami has both water & air cooling.


I've tested this boat today on the for leaks & I found none. The water pick-up tube works great , just as it did with the watercooling for the Nikko Tornado boat.

gulfstreamI

mocars2

I'll be testing two other alternative electric motors for the Nikko & RS boats.

The Monster Maxx 550 motor with adjustable timing. (this is a rebuildable motor with replaceable brushes, springs & motor shaft ball bearings)

The other motor is the Graupner Speed 600 8.4 V. ( this is a motor that has a reputation for torque)

I'll post the results here as soon as I can.

GulfstreamI

mocars2

GulfstreamI - VERY CLEAN plumbing on the ESC. I won't even show the way I did it - not anywhere as good as your job. I did run plumbing twice through each Heat sink and after running a full battery - it doesn't even get warm. Does your get warm at all? Did you have to cut both sides of the ESC cover? Does it slip right on or did you have to make it a 2 piece? THe 2 motors - are you going to run them through the stock ESC?

bjorngl

**** me

mocars2

GulfstreamI - how did the testing two other alternative electric motors for the Nikko & RS boats?

The Monster Maxx 550 motor with adjustable timing. (this is a rebuildable motor with replaceable brushes, springs & motor shaft ball bearings)

The other motor is the Graupner Speed 600 8.4 V. ( this is a motor that has a reputation for torque)

gulfstreamI

Mocars2,

Time to to dust off this topic. Cough! Cough!
As we already know: [ul][1] This boat's ABS hull in stock form is just too heavy for any speed.
[2] The stock ESC limits the performance of any motor ( 20 turn Traxxas or any 550 class motors)
[/ul]
What's been done so far:[ul][1] The hull has been lightened. All excess plastic covers & non-critical plastic removed.
[2] The stock electronics has been replaced with compact , lighter & more efficient units. This includes the E.S.C. receiver unit & steering servo. The electric bilge pump has also been removed.
[3] Water cooling is used only to cool down the electric motor.
[/ul]
The hull was lightened by:[ul][1] Shaving off excess plactic hull braces inside the hull & installing extra styrofoam floatation.
[2] The trailing edges , rudder are "sharpened" & bottom of the hull is sanded & shaved to help water break off easily.
[3] Excess plastic from hatch cover is removed/shaved. This includes replacing the stock driver figure with a light weight counterpart.
[/ul]
The replacement electronics include:[ul][1] Futaba MC 310 CB . Spec: 148 amp, 16 turn limit motor w/ reverse & 30 amp fuse protection.
[2] Futaba FP-R102GR 2 channel 27 Mhz AM receiver with BEC (battery eliminator circuit)
[3] Hi-Tec HS-402X steering servo.
[/ul]Total weight removed from boat is 1.12 pounds. (this includes all electronics)
Total weight of replacement electronic parts .260 pounds.
The result:[ul]
[1] better acceleration (top speed to be decided after further testing of props)
[2] Turns faster, but rudder is too small to to make accurate "high speed turns"
[3] more choices of props to test.
[/ul]
The props tested so far: 40 mm 1.4 pitch & 42 mm 1.5 pitch. ESC OK so far no overheating after a 5 minute run using 7 cells (8.4 volt) & a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 volt motor.
Next prop to be tested is a Octura 1740 (1.7 pitch X 40 mm) three blade made of berryllium copper.

Why am I modifying this particular boat? It's an old style hull similar to those made by Robbe back in 1979 & an airboat hull made by Graupner in 1987 called the "Fluppi". I just have no luck locating these two particular boats so this is the next best thing for me.


GulfstreamI

mocars2

Let's see the rest of it - motor, shaft, bottom shaved...... you take great pics let's see the whole thing. Get your GPS thing out and lets hear the MPH before the water freezes up there.- HAAAAAA

gulfstreamI

Here's a few more pics on those mods.
This is how I arranged the replacement electronics for this boat project.I used a 1700mAH & cell NiCd matched battery pack.
The back view of this boat's shaved & sharpened "turn fin/stabilizers".

fs454

Would you say it's faster than 15mph? That looks like an awesome job.

gulfstreamI

Thanks. Still working on the hull, I've managed to take off a total of 1.42 lbs of excess ABS plastic from the hull with my Dremel tool.
I've been trying to upload the latest pics on the work done. There seems to be a problem with the website's picture upload browser. I've been trying for the past week, but still no go! []

This includes: 1) a 5 turn water cooling coil that I've managed to intergate into the stock motor mount.
2) a streamlined water pick up tube (upgraded version) that I mounted just behind the rudder. A lot better with no brass tubing sticking out of the stern like the last one I did.

The 15 MPH speed is a little difficult to crack with this type of hull, this old style hull has a huge drag that the prop/motor combination has to overcome.
Current top speed I got was 12.2 MPH as confirmed by a GPS device. I'll be trying out a 17 turn triple wind 550 class motor in a few days & see just how much speed I can squeeze out of this hull.

GulfstreamI

greg33

hey guys im new to rc boats i was wondering how much volts can you put into a 550 moter the moter takes a 7.2 can i acually use a 8-our 9 cell with out blowing the motor the motor is on the abc typhoon thanks also i have another question i have one of thoes cheap rtr high wind boats i bought off of ebay it comes with 2) 360 moters and is powered by a 7.2 battery pack i was wondering how i could get more power out of the boat my brotherinlaw put in a 9 cell it seemed to run faster but i think the way the speed controler is wired it only allows so much current to go threw anyone no how to wire it differntly so i dont have to change anything on it and possibley wire 2) 7.2 packs in becuse i see these cheap boats that only run 1 360 and use the same 7.2 i figure i can run 2 somehow thanks..

MX429

Are any of the guys from this old post still around? I am working on a similar project now. I am working on a Nikko Challenger and a Nikko Tornado. I have the challenger running very fast on 14.4 volts but I am battling heat and looking for prop suggestions.