crapshooter

the higher the timing the faster the motor will spin but also it will get hotter, i would be working on a timing around the 7 mark to be safe. as for turn fins , all you need is a fin thats sharp and goes into the water far enough to hold the boat in the turns, you really don,t need a turn fin on the left [ port side ] unless you want to do alot of left turns, oval racing onlt requires the starboard fin. as for ride [ trim tabs ] these are also only needed if the hull is out of trim / balance etc, they do cause water drag . so one turn fin nice and sharp and a set of not too large turn fins if you think the boat needs the tabs.

kennethfunk

Ok thanks,I will set the timing around the 7 mark for tomorrow's 1st test run,and raise and angle back a little for turn fins,there pretty sharp,and I'll raise the inner right trim tab that I lowered a little too much...got my Jet Ski to take out to open area on smooth water when it's early morning: )

Patrick125

My preference is motor wire to speed control wire soldered directly for lowest resistance I have done this for 3 motors and they run extremely cool, the temperature after the run is the same as when I connected the battery. This is my experience, I don't know if you will get the same results. I have a speed control that I use connects on and it runs cool but the wires are changeable and I have change to wires with material similar to what the motors has. I find the revolt trim tabs and turn fins to be good. I have the inner tabs on my revolt down a little.


My revolt used to blow over but the negative that I put on the inner tabs helps a lot .

kennethfunk

Thanks,I'll look into directly soldering esc and motor wires,and keep a slight downward angle as needed on inner trim tabs,..it's been running good,but starts turning right as I go fast from torque roll to right,I have the heavier 6s battery all the way back in tray but wondering if it's still riding to wet,may check strut depth and angle: )

Patrick125

You may not have to adjust the trim tabs on 6s, the weight of the 6s battery will keep it from blowing over from what I have seen. The octura m545 prop causes bow lift and I used to have my 4s closer to the motor so the center of gravity was closer to the rear combined with the bow lifting of the m545 and the lighter weight of the 4s so that used to cause the boat to blow over with the tabs set neutral. The revolt should not torque roll with props 45mm and under. If the tabs are not set properly it will learn on one side like the torque role that you take about.


I would suggest to set try neutral on the tabs on 6s and the grimracer 4255. The grimracer 4255 I found allows the boat to run level.


If you want to adjust the tabs they should be set level on both sides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo00ylSRitc This is me testing yesterday

kennethfunk

Nice video,running fast and smooth!!....I will try the tabs neutral and be running my 4255 prop and make a video tomorrow: ))

crapshooter

try and get the boats C.O.G. at the correct balance. i would work on 1/3 of the boats length as the cog balance , if its tail or nose heavy move the battery pack forward or backwards to correct the balance . don,t have any down setting on the trim tabs unless the boat needs some to correct bow hop or torque roll. how would an Octura 440 x 3 or 437 x 3 blade prop go ? these are an excellent prop for the 21 glow size mono hulls, should also be good for electric simular size boats.

kennethfunk

thanks,I'll check my C.O.G....: )

Patrick125

The aquacraft can handle bigger than the x440 3 blade and the x437 3 blade, the bigger props are more efficient as a result giving more speed.

crapshooter

just a thought trying a good 3 blade prop as i used to race a 21 glow youngblood mono with an ops speed 21 and the best prop for this was the 440 x 3, worked better than the slightly larger 2 blade props.

kennethfunk

I've ordered a Goolrc 4082 1600kv motor from China,and a Turnigy 3674 1650kv motor from New York,will be testing each to see which is overall best running 6s...any ideas about both motors?: ))...still using Seaking 120a esc for now,also I've got extra water pickup going to esc

kennethfunk

Was going to get the Leopard 4074 1650kv from Ose,but didn't have the money yet,so I used pay after delivery on eBay for other 2 motors...lol: )

crapshooter

i don,t know anything about the Coolrc motors but going by reviews on the Turnigy XK motors they seem to be built up with good componants even good bearings. it would be interesting to know out of the 3 different brand motors with the same specs ie; 3674 - 1650 kv which one would be the quickest.

kennethfunk

I'm looking forward to testing each motor with my gps,and also see how temps are and with the 2 props I have already,grim 4255 and 5568,with eventually get some octuras to try

kennethfunk

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kennethfunk

Harder to post pictures nw

kennethfunk

Here's my new inlet and outlets and water pickup: )...

crapshooter

looks good , those no drag water blast intakes work well when set up at the correct prop spacing also make sure you can see the water coming out of the outlets on stern, it would have been better if you did mount these 2 water outlets on the top rear or side top this would have given better visibilty of the water coming out each outlet. you should end up with one quick mono hull there .

kennethfunk

Thanks,I think it's going to be a great running mono,I did think afterwards about having the water shoot upwards to see it good,..the extra water pickup was shooting a stream straight up about 5 feet before I put the water line on,so I could see how it worked,..I'll get the Turnigy 3674 1650kv motor by Wednesday,the Goolrc 4082 1600kv still hasn't made it to USA yet,but probably soon,I ordered it about 9 days ago.

kennethfunk

I got the Turnigy xk3674 1650kv motor today,but the cooling jacket from my Aquacraft 3656 motor slides on but it's not tight enough and leaks,I wonder if I got the wrong motor,it's black and didn't say "inrunner"..for boat,the the Turnigy xk3674 1650kv "inrunner" is purple,...should I go to Ace Hardware and look for thicker o-rings...?..

crapshooter

all the Turnigy XK motors are Inrunners going by the Hobby King Site. both those motors are 36 mm in diameter so the cooling jacket o -rings must be abit heat worn, i had to buy a complete jacket when i busted an o - ring as they don,t have spares.

kennethfunk

Ok thanks,they were stuck and hard to slide cooling jacket off stock motor like they were heat worn to it,I'm going to check Ace to see what they have!..I want to test run it,and also test my next motor that still hasn't shown it's got to USA yet,..4072 1600kv,Goolrc...also I wonder what prop will work best on the two motors,the stock Grimracer 42x55..or the 45x68 lifter prop,I tested both on stock motor on 6s and both did 51mph....I think these motors have the power to turn the bigger prop,but maybe the smaller will be better..: )

crapshooter

you would think the larger prop of the 2 would give more top end speed providing the motor is running well without overloading anything.

kennethfunk

Yes I think the stock motor,3656 was just being over worked using 6s...this bigger Motor,3674 should be able to use the extra power from 6s,and being lower 1650kv will be good,I'm going to test it tomorrow with both props...then test it again with the even bigger motor,4082 1600kv when it gets here from China: )

kennethfunk

I got the GoolRC 4082 1600kv motor in and running Great!!!...haven't got to full throttle yet but seems like it'll get to my goal of 60mph...need to get a new gps speed meter to see top speed,this motor really has torque,power and is fast as it effortlessly pushes it forward with the Grimracer 45x68 prop....need to get a few other props too to have handy to test....and probably get a Seaking 180esc,my Seaking 120esc is doing good on temps though,am running separate water pickup for esc!.. will have pics and vids soon::cool...