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ESC/brushless motor problem: any suggestions?

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Old 07-23-2017, 10:34 AM
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Charleypartanna
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Default ESC/brushless motor problem: any suggestions?

Hi there! I would REALLY appreciate any help you can offer.

My boat is an Atomic RC brushless. Last season, I burned out the ESC. That is, it basically melted. I don't know what caused the malfunction, but I thought it may have been the motor. So I bought a new ESC (Hobbywing 30 amp), a new stock motor, and a new battery (Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 2200mAh 25C 3S 11.1V).

Basically, all of the electronic components are new -- except the transmitter and receiver.

When I hooked everything up and pull the throttle, the motors spins smoothly at a very low speed but as the throttle is increased, it seems to catch and is very unsmooth. Also, the wires get very hot quickly and the motor lets out a whiff of smoke.

Crap!

I can't figure it out. I tried every combination of the three wires connecting the ESC to the motor. That didn't help.

During the testing the motor is handheld so I know nothing is physically impeding it.

I confirmed that the ESC programming matched the battery configuration. I didn't fiddle with the timing setting.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2017, 04:01 PM
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Got RPM
 
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Running a brushless motor without a load will heat it up quickly, bad idea. The clogging you noticed could be due to either too much timing advance or the frequency setting/ability of the ESC does not match the motor requirements. More details about exactly what motor/ESC you have might help us help you.

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Old 07-25-2017, 04:23 PM
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Patrick125
 
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I think a 30amp seaking is a bad idea, the 90amp seaking is the smallest I would try, especially with 3s, also running unloaded without cooling will cause things to heat up fast and that 30amp ESC makes the heat issue even worse.
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:42 PM
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cablecar
 
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What is the size of your motor? 30A ESC can handle a small motor and it only suitable for a small boat, around 12" boat I think.
Testing Motor with No load is fine and because of No load, within a min. I think it still can handle the heat. (It is normal if you hand can keep on touching it. Means not very hot. Very hot mean it can brunt your hand.)
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:11 AM
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If the motor is going to draw 30A, say, your ESC needs to be able to handleat least 30A and your battery needs to be able to supply at least 30A. Your ESC is 30 amp, so your motor is less than 30A.
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Old 09-12-2017, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
...Testing Motor with No load is fine and because of No load, within a min. I think it still can handle the heat. (It is normal if you hand can keep on touching it. Means not very hot. Very hot mean it can brunt your hand.)
Very hot means melted wires, which the OP has.....

Although he doesn't tell us, I assume the OP has an Atomik Barbwire, a 17" boat. These work great with the stock electric components and do not overheat when running. Running the motor too long out of water will overheat it, it is a tiny motor. Melted motor wires mean either too big an amp draw or running too long out of the water. This is a proven setup, no reason to change from stock components.

Does the drive train turn easily? Is the OP using the stock prop? Lube the drive line?

It is possible that the motor or ESC is faulty, but since the original parts failed, I suspect the fault lies elsewhere.

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