Mini Rio hop up
12-15-2017, 06:16 AM
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Mini Rio hop up
Good day Gents,
I am currently deployed, and have a little disposable income. I decided to buy a whole bunch of hop up parts for a mini rio that over the last few years has been collecting dust in my basement.
I went with
1x leopard 2845 30a 2230kv
1x water cooling jacket for leopard 2845
1x 380 water cooled face plate motor mount
1x OSE .098 flex cable with 1/8 shaft
1x 3/16 brass stuffing tube
2x CNC micro rudder
1x CNC micro strut
1x CNC 3 blade propeller 38mm 1.99 pitch
1x SeaKing 30a ESC
all from offshore electrics
I also picked up some 2.0mm carbon fiber sheeting to reenforce the hull. the plan is to gut the hull internal motar mounting hardware and all. Reenforce the aft where the headwear attaches with a piece of the carbon fiber plating, install the stuffing tube, and support with a conservative amount of carbon fiber struts.
I plan on on using the teflon liner that comes with the flex shaft. The strut will be mounted with 5mm spacers to accommodate use with a mono hull. The water pickups on the rudders will be blocked with epoxy and sanded flush, and ball ends will be soldered into the water outlets on the top of the rudders. To allow for use of a duel rudder set up. The stock water pickup will be used as the supply of cooling for the motor and esc.
the only boats I have built, or modified have been jet boats, so I do not have much experience with prop selection. At this point I expect that the boat will be overpropped and overpowered. Hoping with low kv and cocervative low end throttle use will result in a healthy runtime.
Problems I forsee
Removing the factory stuffing tube, and the motor mount without damaging the hull.
The overall weight of the completed product may be too much for this little hull to handle.
The power will be too much to maintain stability at over 50%
I would greatly appreciate any recommendations, comments, or concerns.
This is will be my masterpiece
I am currently deployed, and have a little disposable income. I decided to buy a whole bunch of hop up parts for a mini rio that over the last few years has been collecting dust in my basement.
I went with
1x leopard 2845 30a 2230kv
1x water cooling jacket for leopard 2845
1x 380 water cooled face plate motor mount
1x OSE .098 flex cable with 1/8 shaft
1x 3/16 brass stuffing tube
2x CNC micro rudder
1x CNC micro strut
1x CNC 3 blade propeller 38mm 1.99 pitch
1x SeaKing 30a ESC
all from offshore electrics
I also picked up some 2.0mm carbon fiber sheeting to reenforce the hull. the plan is to gut the hull internal motar mounting hardware and all. Reenforce the aft where the headwear attaches with a piece of the carbon fiber plating, install the stuffing tube, and support with a conservative amount of carbon fiber struts.
I plan on on using the teflon liner that comes with the flex shaft. The strut will be mounted with 5mm spacers to accommodate use with a mono hull. The water pickups on the rudders will be blocked with epoxy and sanded flush, and ball ends will be soldered into the water outlets on the top of the rudders. To allow for use of a duel rudder set up. The stock water pickup will be used as the supply of cooling for the motor and esc.
the only boats I have built, or modified have been jet boats, so I do not have much experience with prop selection. At this point I expect that the boat will be overpropped and overpowered. Hoping with low kv and cocervative low end throttle use will result in a healthy runtime.
Problems I forsee
Removing the factory stuffing tube, and the motor mount without damaging the hull.
The overall weight of the completed product may be too much for this little hull to handle.
The power will be too much to maintain stability at over 50%
I would greatly appreciate any recommendations, comments, or concerns.
This is will be my masterpiece
12-15-2017, 08:40 AM
#2
Sounds like an interesting project. Here are some comments and recommendations:
- the stuffing tube can be removed easily by heating it with a soldering iron (40W or higher, not a gun) and using pliers
- to maintain alignment you may want to keep the motor mount. A water cooled mount does very little cooling.
- most monos run a single rudder on the right side. Two adds a lot of drag and are only needed in very confined water.
- that is way too much prop! It will likely make the boat handle poorly and overheat the motor/ ESC. Try an x432 plastic first.
- use the rudder water pickup, ditch the transom pickup - too much drag
Every hull has a maximum speed it can attain and still be a boat. Sure you can overpower anything and watch it skip crazily across the pond...until it comes to rest upside down and fills with water. Then what is the plan?
The above are are my thoughts, for a lot more ideas go here: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ni-Rio-Q-amp-A
Above all, thank you for your service.
.
- the stuffing tube can be removed easily by heating it with a soldering iron (40W or higher, not a gun) and using pliers
- to maintain alignment you may want to keep the motor mount. A water cooled mount does very little cooling.
- most monos run a single rudder on the right side. Two adds a lot of drag and are only needed in very confined water.
- that is way too much prop! It will likely make the boat handle poorly and overheat the motor/ ESC. Try an x432 plastic first.
- use the rudder water pickup, ditch the transom pickup - too much drag
Every hull has a maximum speed it can attain and still be a boat. Sure you can overpower anything and watch it skip crazily across the pond...until it comes to rest upside down and fills with water. Then what is the plan?
The above are are my thoughts, for a lot more ideas go here: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ni-Rio-Q-amp-A
Above all, thank you for your service.
.
12-15-2017, 10:16 AM
#3
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Thank you for the response
Sounds like an interesting project. Here are some comments and recommendations:
- the stuffing tube can be removed easily by heating it with a soldering iron (40W or higher, not a gun) and using pliers
- to maintain alignment you may want to keep the motor mount. A water cooled mount does very little cooling.
- most monos run a single rudder on the right side. Two adds a lot of drag and are only needed in very confined water.
- that is way too much prop! It will likely make the boat handle poorly and overheat the motor/ ESC. Try an x432 plastic first.
- use the rudder water pickup, ditch the transom pickup - too much drag
Every hull has a maximum speed it can attain and still be a boat. Sure you can overpower anything and watch it skip crazily across the pond...until it comes to rest upside down and fills with water. Then what is the plan?
The above are are my thoughts, for a lot more ideas go here: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ni-Rio-Q-amp-A
Above all, thank you for your service.
.
- the stuffing tube can be removed easily by heating it with a soldering iron (40W or higher, not a gun) and using pliers
- to maintain alignment you may want to keep the motor mount. A water cooled mount does very little cooling.
- most monos run a single rudder on the right side. Two adds a lot of drag and are only needed in very confined water.
- that is way too much prop! It will likely make the boat handle poorly and overheat the motor/ ESC. Try an x432 plastic first.
- use the rudder water pickup, ditch the transom pickup - too much drag
Every hull has a maximum speed it can attain and still be a boat. Sure you can overpower anything and watch it skip crazily across the pond...until it comes to rest upside down and fills with water. Then what is the plan?
The above are are my thoughts, for a lot more ideas go here: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ni-Rio-Q-amp-A
Above all, thank you for your service.
.
The reason for replacing the motor mount also allows for the use of a direct contact cooling jacket which is much more efficient at cooling the motor then copper coils I would have been able to use on stock.
What kind of epoxy do you recommend to attach the new stuffing tube to the hull?
How hot does the stuffing tube have to get before the stock epoxy begins to fail? Is it hot enough to melt the Plastic of the hull?
thank you for your feedback
12-15-2017, 12:10 PM
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the average epoxy used is not high temp rated so just a little bit of heat around the area is all thats needed to soften the epoxy., as mentioned use some pliers and hold tension on the shaft log whilst you apply some iron heat , you will feel the log start to slide.
for fixing in the shaft log you can use epoxy / jb weld or even silicon sealant but make sure the finished result has no water leaks at the hole cut out. bathtub test when complete.
for fixing in the shaft log you can use epoxy / jb weld or even silicon sealant but make sure the finished result has no water leaks at the hole cut out. bathtub test when complete.
12-15-2017, 03:21 PM
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Thank you for the input,
Would heating the aria around the motor mount with something less aggressive then a soldiering iron aid in the removal of the mount? Does the stuffing tube generally continue into the strut, or is there a bushing that takes over in supporting the drive dog?
I am am using this strut
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-80046
I ordered a comparable propeller to the x432, with the amount of water cooling to be installed on the boat I think it will be a solid option. 30mm 1.65 pitch
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...od=cnc-3014250
thanks again,
Ben
Would heating the aria around the motor mount with something less aggressive then a soldiering iron aid in the removal of the mount? Does the stuffing tube generally continue into the strut, or is there a bushing that takes over in supporting the drive dog?
I am am using this strut
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-80046
I ordered a comparable propeller to the x432, with the amount of water cooling to be installed on the boat I think it will be a solid option. 30mm 1.65 pitch
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...od=cnc-3014250
thanks again,
Ben
12-17-2017, 02:15 AM
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Your stuffing tube should protrude into the strut atleast 1/2 inch or more , there is 1 or 2 bush bearings inside that strut for the drive shaft to ride on. just hold a soldering iron on the tube next to the glued area as it won,t affect the hull as long as you don,t over heat the tube which by rights you shouldn,t need to . thats probably the safest and easiest way to do this job.
