NQD Hydro
#476
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: troms, NORWAY
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RE: NQD Hydro
Ok, i see...
To many that have said this about this hull now, so im gonna stop it there...
Not gonna do this build..
Tought i realy had hit the jackpot here, by geting this free hull [sm=red_smile.gif] LoL
Well, i now got a little addiction to boats, so i might get something similar and do a build
thanks for the reply
To many that have said this about this hull now, so im gonna stop it there...
Not gonna do this build..
Tought i realy had hit the jackpot here, by geting this free hull [sm=red_smile.gif] LoL
Well, i now got a little addiction to boats, so i might get something similar and do a build
thanks for the reply
#477
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Wellen, GERMANY
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RE: NQD Hydro
why not look for some free plans and build a mono from scratch? it's a great way to start boating. If you look through these pages you should find a link or other to free plans for a Wild Thing mono - looks great and performs well. and with the same budget you were gonna throw in the hydro you can get a decent hobby-quality boat...
good luck
A
good luck
A
#479
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Location: San Diego, CA
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RE: NQD Hydro
Hi everyone,
I've read through most of the posts and have the same NQD but which size do you guys have? Mine is the 20" version which is actually 17 1/25" in length. As all of you know the NQD's performance if there is any, is a bit of a joke along with the Sports Game logo on it. After more than 300 hours of modifying it only one u-joint is needed to make it run, still waiting for it to arrive. I suppose I could have purchased a better running boat from the start, but since this is my first one I wanted one where I had to learn more in order to get it to run better. My only question about it's design is why put the holes for the screws on the bottom???? They were filled with wax which has been removed and will be replaced with puddy before it runs in water again. I'm new to this forum stuff so I gotta figure out how to post pics on here so you guys can see my mods.
Basically, my boat has a aluminum rudder with a Raiden 16G Micro Plus Digital Servos DMA-039 w/ Metal Gear and Monster Torque purchased from XHeli. Two no name 12amp 4900kv inrunner brushless with silicon water jacket for 300 size motors purchased from Offshore Electrics attached to two reduction gear boxes with a 5-1 ratio. Two Mystery 12amp ESCs. The receiver is a Esky EK2-0420 72MHz 6 channel from my Honey Bee King2 paired with the transmitter and Esky gyro, I think a 1,000' range is more than enough for a RC boat. I've tested the receiver and gyro in another boat I purchased which is a Nikko Shockwave Hydrofoil, you can use it with or without the gyro but the gyro is useful when gunning it in a straight line as long as you adjust the gain correctly. The props are Octura X430 metal LH & RH, u-joints are Pro Boat/PRB3108 purchased from FunRCBoats. The motor mount is hand made from brass sheet metal and mounted on aluminum sheet metal. The receiver and ESC mounts are made from aluminum sheet metal. The rudder support is made from aluminum sheet metal. The radiator is made from aluminum sheet metal, aluminum tubing and copper rings. The radiator was the hardest part for me to make, wish there was one available for this boat. The brushless sealed bearing 12v cooling fan is from a old computer with a hand made cone glued to it. I gotta post the pics, just ask if you guys have any questions.
I've read through most of the posts and have the same NQD but which size do you guys have? Mine is the 20" version which is actually 17 1/25" in length. As all of you know the NQD's performance if there is any, is a bit of a joke along with the Sports Game logo on it. After more than 300 hours of modifying it only one u-joint is needed to make it run, still waiting for it to arrive. I suppose I could have purchased a better running boat from the start, but since this is my first one I wanted one where I had to learn more in order to get it to run better. My only question about it's design is why put the holes for the screws on the bottom???? They were filled with wax which has been removed and will be replaced with puddy before it runs in water again. I'm new to this forum stuff so I gotta figure out how to post pics on here so you guys can see my mods.
Basically, my boat has a aluminum rudder with a Raiden 16G Micro Plus Digital Servos DMA-039 w/ Metal Gear and Monster Torque purchased from XHeli. Two no name 12amp 4900kv inrunner brushless with silicon water jacket for 300 size motors purchased from Offshore Electrics attached to two reduction gear boxes with a 5-1 ratio. Two Mystery 12amp ESCs. The receiver is a Esky EK2-0420 72MHz 6 channel from my Honey Bee King2 paired with the transmitter and Esky gyro, I think a 1,000' range is more than enough for a RC boat. I've tested the receiver and gyro in another boat I purchased which is a Nikko Shockwave Hydrofoil, you can use it with or without the gyro but the gyro is useful when gunning it in a straight line as long as you adjust the gain correctly. The props are Octura X430 metal LH & RH, u-joints are Pro Boat/PRB3108 purchased from FunRCBoats. The motor mount is hand made from brass sheet metal and mounted on aluminum sheet metal. The receiver and ESC mounts are made from aluminum sheet metal. The rudder support is made from aluminum sheet metal. The radiator is made from aluminum sheet metal, aluminum tubing and copper rings. The radiator was the hardest part for me to make, wish there was one available for this boat. The brushless sealed bearing 12v cooling fan is from a old computer with a hand made cone glued to it. I gotta post the pics, just ask if you guys have any questions.
#480
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
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RE: NQD Hydro
ORIGINAL: pacificmods
Hi everyone,
I've read through most of the posts and have the same NQD but which size do you guys have? Mine is the 20" version which is actually 17 1/25" in length. As all of you know the NQD's performance if there is any, is a bit of a joke along with the Sports Game logo on it. After more than 300 hours of modifying it only one u-joint is needed to make it run, still waiting for it to arrive. I suppose I could have purchased a better running boat from the start, but since this is my first one I wanted one where I had to learn more in order to get it to run better. My only question about it's design is why put the holes for the screws on the bottom???? They were filled with wax which has been removed and will be replaced with puddy before it runs in water again. I'm new to this forum stuff so I gotta figure out how to post pics on here so you guys can see my mods.
Basically, my boat has a aluminum rudder with a Raiden 16G Micro Plus Digital Servos DMA-039 w/ Metal Gear and Monster Torque purchased from XHeli. Two no name 12amp 4900kv inrunner brushless with silicon water jacket for 300 size motors purchased from Offshore Electrics attached to two reduction gear boxes with a 5-1 ratio. Two Mystery 12amp ESCs. The receiver is a Esky EK2-0420 72MHz 6 channel from my Honey Bee King2 paired with the transmitter and Esky gyro, I think a 1,000' range is more than enough for a RC boat. I've tested the receiver and gyro in another boat I purchased which is a Nikko Shockwave Hydrofoil, you can use it with or without the gyro but the gyro is useful when gunning it in a straight line as long as you adjust the gain correctly. The props are Octura X430 metal LH & RH, u-joints are Pro Boat/PRB3108 purchased from FunRCBoats. The motor mount is hand made from brass sheet metal and mounted on aluminum sheet metal. The receiver and ESC mounts are made from aluminum sheet metal. The rudder support is made from aluminum sheet metal. The radiator is made from aluminum sheet metal, aluminum tubing and copper rings. The radiator was the hardest part for me to make, wish there was one available for this boat. The brushless sealed bearing 12v cooling fan is from a old computer with a hand made cone glued to it. I gotta post the pics, just ask if you guys have any questions.
Hi everyone,
I've read through most of the posts and have the same NQD but which size do you guys have? Mine is the 20" version which is actually 17 1/25" in length. As all of you know the NQD's performance if there is any, is a bit of a joke along with the Sports Game logo on it. After more than 300 hours of modifying it only one u-joint is needed to make it run, still waiting for it to arrive. I suppose I could have purchased a better running boat from the start, but since this is my first one I wanted one where I had to learn more in order to get it to run better. My only question about it's design is why put the holes for the screws on the bottom???? They were filled with wax which has been removed and will be replaced with puddy before it runs in water again. I'm new to this forum stuff so I gotta figure out how to post pics on here so you guys can see my mods.
Basically, my boat has a aluminum rudder with a Raiden 16G Micro Plus Digital Servos DMA-039 w/ Metal Gear and Monster Torque purchased from XHeli. Two no name 12amp 4900kv inrunner brushless with silicon water jacket for 300 size motors purchased from Offshore Electrics attached to two reduction gear boxes with a 5-1 ratio. Two Mystery 12amp ESCs. The receiver is a Esky EK2-0420 72MHz 6 channel from my Honey Bee King2 paired with the transmitter and Esky gyro, I think a 1,000' range is more than enough for a RC boat. I've tested the receiver and gyro in another boat I purchased which is a Nikko Shockwave Hydrofoil, you can use it with or without the gyro but the gyro is useful when gunning it in a straight line as long as you adjust the gain correctly. The props are Octura X430 metal LH & RH, u-joints are Pro Boat/PRB3108 purchased from FunRCBoats. The motor mount is hand made from brass sheet metal and mounted on aluminum sheet metal. The receiver and ESC mounts are made from aluminum sheet metal. The rudder support is made from aluminum sheet metal. The radiator is made from aluminum sheet metal, aluminum tubing and copper rings. The radiator was the hardest part for me to make, wish there was one available for this boat. The brushless sealed bearing 12v cooling fan is from a old computer with a hand made cone glued to it. I gotta post the pics, just ask if you guys have any questions.
#481
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ballarat Victoria, AUSTRALIA
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RE: NQD Hydro
Nice work I have done the admiral and now I am finishing off the mono hull. I have a F1 tunnel ready to fit out with a brushless outboard, should be good fun Keep up the good work
#482
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RE: NQD Hydro
hey guys, i'm doing a yellow sport game mod at the moment. im going to order a brushless castle 2200 kv motor from the traxxas spatan and intalling the ose-80085 catamaran strut and rudder system. thinking 45mm prop? now i know im spending some money on a cheap hull but hey. you shoud see what ive done with some nikko boats that walked the dog around nittro lol. its a hobby. btw if the hull breaks couting on the electronics not being wet i can put them in another hull. ant takes on speed running 3s?