NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
Quick search found it (the 101) to be only 78 grams. Where do you put it? Do you use it a lot otherwise? I'm a runner, mountain biker, boater so I think I would get use out of it elsewhere. Don't mean to highjack but this would be great for data.
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
Wheelnut,
I use the 201 also. Did you try using the Custom screen for creating a max speed block? I have the Lap Alarm, Max Speed, and Distance recorded.
I use the 201 also. Did you try using the Custom screen for creating a max speed block? I have the Lap Alarm, Max Speed, and Distance recorded.
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
SV27dayton, I put mine on the top of the hull using double sided tape. But I have seen where others put inside the hull. I am guessing it works ok that way and if it does it is deffinetly safer.
Blackjack52, Thanks for that info. I am not too fimiliar with it and I can't find my book. Would you mind sending me a pm with instructions on how to do it? Thanks
Blackjack52, Thanks for that info. I am not too fimiliar with it and I can't find my book. Would you mind sending me a pm with instructions on how to do it? Thanks
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
Wheelnut,
Probably oversight, but you can download the manual from here:[8D]
http://www.garmin.com/products/manua...t=010-00328-00
Probably oversight, but you can download the manual from here:[8D]
http://www.garmin.com/products/manua...t=010-00328-00
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
Ran mine today with 2, 3C lipos - speed was awesome and as expected motor heated up pretty quick, but esc seemed to handle okay. Initial volts were ~ 26. Too much for this rig.
Switched to 2, 2C at ~ 16 initial volts and speed WOT was still significantly better than with 3800 nimh"s. I don't really understand the trepedation with using lipos. In my opinion, with adequate preparation and monotoring, they are superior to the alternatives.
For what its worth.
Mike
Switched to 2, 2C at ~ 16 initial volts and speed WOT was still significantly better than with 3800 nimh"s. I don't really understand the trepedation with using lipos. In my opinion, with adequate preparation and monotoring, they are superior to the alternatives.
For what its worth.
Mike
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
ORIGINAL: mharvey1
Ran mine today with 2, 3C lipos - speed was awesome and as expected motor heated up pretty quick, but esc seemed to handle okay. Initial volts were ~ 26. Too much for this rig.
Switched to 2, 2C at ~ 16 initial volts and speed WOT was still significantly better than with 3800 nimh"s. I don't really understand the trepedation with using lipos. In my opinion, with adequate preparation and monotoring, they are superior to the alternatives.
For what its worth.
Mike
Ran mine today with 2, 3C lipos - speed was awesome and as expected motor heated up pretty quick, but esc seemed to handle okay. Initial volts were ~ 26. Too much for this rig.
Switched to 2, 2C at ~ 16 initial volts and speed WOT was still significantly better than with 3800 nimh"s. I don't really understand the trepedation with using lipos. In my opinion, with adequate preparation and monotoring, they are superior to the alternatives.
For what its worth.
Mike
Did you notice any different in the run time using the lipos compared with nimh? Someone mentioned that if l replaced my current nimh with Lipo's l would get a greater runtime. Currently l am running my SV on IB 4200Mah and are thinking of swapping to Lipos with similar or greator Mah in the attempt get a much greator runtime.
Thanks, l'd be interested in hearing your feedback.
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
Can someone please explain to me some of the terms used in boating? I dont know what chine walking is or prop walk or any of the other terms used. Please explain what they are to me. Also, Could someone tell me the differance between 2 bladed props and 3 bladed props as well as the pros and cons of each. Thank you very much.
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
That's a big can of worms you have there!
I believe prop walk, and chine walk are the same or very similar. This is common in v-hulls (also known as monos) that are over their designed speed or running with a less than optimum setup. Typically for me this occurs when I'm at full throttle and the boat is nearing top speed or there. I think this is usually initiated by the right wave or waves (don't have to be big) but then the boat will occelate from side to side rapidly. This will continue even if the water becomes perfect under the boat (self sustaned harmonic) and if you continue to accelerate, in my experience it will typically result in a violent crash, probaby when the occelations pull the rudder out of the water.
Two blade vs. 3 blade is a big nut, but the common thought is that 2 blades will generally have more top end and 3 blades will come out of the hole better creating more thrust, and often handle better. The thing is that the pitch and diameter will also be big factors (typically the 3 bld will be of smaller diameter than a two) You are lucky in that there is a ton of data about prop selection for this boat. Make a pot of coffee and read the SV27 prop thread. I recently resurected it to ask some of my own questions so it's on the front page again.
I believe prop walk, and chine walk are the same or very similar. This is common in v-hulls (also known as monos) that are over their designed speed or running with a less than optimum setup. Typically for me this occurs when I'm at full throttle and the boat is nearing top speed or there. I think this is usually initiated by the right wave or waves (don't have to be big) but then the boat will occelate from side to side rapidly. This will continue even if the water becomes perfect under the boat (self sustaned harmonic) and if you continue to accelerate, in my experience it will typically result in a violent crash, probaby when the occelations pull the rudder out of the water.
Two blade vs. 3 blade is a big nut, but the common thought is that 2 blades will generally have more top end and 3 blades will come out of the hole better creating more thrust, and often handle better. The thing is that the pitch and diameter will also be big factors (typically the 3 bld will be of smaller diameter than a two) You are lucky in that there is a ton of data about prop selection for this boat. Make a pot of coffee and read the SV27 prop thread. I recently resurected it to ask some of my own questions so it's on the front page again.
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RE: NEW SV27 tuning thread, no rants please
ok Thank you now i have a better understanding what chine walk is. My boat was doing that the last time i was out. My boat is stock and i had the trim tabs down a little. I love this boat and i wanted to make it better but i think i may have screwed it up. I was trying to seal the hatch better so i bought some vinyl foam weatherseal from walmart and tried to put it in the groove where the hatch sits to seal it so i wouldt have to use hatch tape but that didnt work. I also took out the quick release thing to put some strong magnets which i think was a mistake. Anyone have any ideas for like a little handle of some sort to open the hatch with? The magnets are pretty stong and i took out that weatherseal because it wasnt working. It seemed that it would have needed some pressure on the seal to make it seal good. Anyone have any ideas on how to seal the hatch better without the tape? Thanks again sv27daton for the explination.