rszanti

Here's a passing thought - you might install a fuse in the line somewhere just in case all this guessing about amperage comes out low. The fuse can save an ESC and/or a motor. Just size for the max current a specific item can handle and no more. The instant blow fuse used in todays autos are easy to come by and there are fuse holders available for soldering right in a line.

Richard

CadillacDTS2001

no fuse!
cause to much hassle and the esc will thermal before anything which is a reusable fuse.
your controller will spike at around 200-250 amps you will need a 200 amp fuse to run it properly
s. and there is no point. depending on his solder . the solder might de-solder before any of that happens.

saleens7

i would rather use the eagle tree...it will tell me not just the max amps i pull, but wil give me a graph of my amp draw for the whole runtime.....besides, can a fuse do this?

CadillacDTS2001

a fuse will not break if you pull to many amps. a egal tree will not do this. these are two different things.

ryan_t888

Yes, the Eagle Tree Micro Data Logger is the best watt meter I have come across. Be sure to get some sensors with it. I believe I paid around 10 U.S. for a thermo sensor and around $13U.S. for an optical RPM sensor. I didn't bother with purchasing the LCD screen as plugging in to a computer is just as easy.

Ryan

teamchrome

My Feedback: (4)

Whats the news on this??
Im in the middle of my own conversion and like seeing the progress pics on this.
Any video yet?
My motor (SV 27 ) set up will be here soon as well as my batteries.

saleens7

nothing much new.....i did get the adaptor so i can charge the batts now, but im waiting until i have everything else (radio system, thrust bearing, cooling jacket for motor (one i have leakes), and a waterproof radio box for the esc (aka...plastic food container).....ill also need to waterproof the esc.....someone is willing to make a custom cooling plate for it and ill need to buy somr shrink wrap to re-wrap the esc and to hold the cooling plates on....im also thinking i might just use the cooling plates from a SV27 esc....it may not wrap around the esc all the way, but it will do its job....ill do the first run without cooling on the esc, ill just bring it in every 30 seconds to check temps...

saleens7

also, what boat is that? what are the dimensions? looks like a neat conversion....have any interior pics?

saleens7

ok, i got sick of waiting for my parents to let me buy a radio system....im going to use it with the stock radio....ill wrap the Rx up in foil and ill be out in the lake with my kayak and keeping the boat within 40 feet from me at all times.....i just hope it performs well on a 40mm prop....ill bring it in every 30 seconds to 1 minute to check for temps and leaks.....im doing a leak test as i type....ill buy some fresh batts for the Tx and Rx and keep the esc waterproofed in a tuppaware container...ill hopefully get it running in the next few days

bucsbw

I did convert a shockwave 36 to an electric about two years ago. I used a Nemisis Blue 10XL on a fine design gear drive. My gearing was 1:22/1. My esc was a hacker navy 70, and I was running up to 5S. The prop I was using is a Octura 447. Even at 3S the boat got squirly. The boat handles terribly at higher speeds. No matter what you do to the trim tabs or putting weight into the front end it does not work. The boat was only meant to go 30mph, and I had mine clocked at 66.3mph on 5s. On 3s I got around 50mph. About your build. The stringers should have been left in, they are good for holding your batteries in place on the sides and keeping them faily dry. Where the gas tank went, you should have left the stringer there as well. You could have mounted a plate across the stringers and mounted your speed controller up off of the hull to keep that dry as well. Bottom line is that if you are looking for speed, this is not the hull. If you are looking for just messing around at low speeds and a long run time then this hull will do. There are much better monos to take into the electric speed world. I am having the same trouble with my Proboat Lumar that I converted to electric. It was not meant to go fast, and again I am paying the price with a boat hull that can not handle well at high speeds. Any questions I would be glad to help.

saleens7

im not looking for all out speed with this hull....more just a fun run boat.......in fact, ill be fine if it does 35mph.....then again, mine probably weighs 2x as much as yours because of the nimh cells, so it might be able to go faster and stay under control.....i ripped out the strigers so the batts would fit.....i could have left the stringers that went lenghtwide in the hull, but when i pulled out the stringers that crossed the hull, it loosesned up the lenghtwise ones, so i just though whatever, ill take (or tear) the rest out....

big thunder

im going to convert mine to brushless but what do you guys think is the best set up i have a nemesis 9xl and a hydra 240 would it have anough power on 6 cells of lipo

bucsbw

The 9xl will only drain your batteries qicker. You really need a 10xl up to a 14xl to get this boat to perform. With a 9xl and a 445 or 440 prop you might at least get the boat on plane with a good throw. The Hydra speed controllers are junk. They have been the cause of many fires due to bad circuitry which has never been solved. You would be better off with a small navy 70 by Hacker. Also, 6s is way too much for this boat. I was running 5s and the boat was too hard to handle (there are better mono hulls out there). I had to go down to 3s and the boat still was sqirrley. Any questions feel free to ask.

big thunder

yeah i had a hydra catch on fire before i new they were junk but by than i had 2 of them and the 9xl was out of my super vee 27 so what motor and esc should i run im thinking of a lehner motor

saleens7

actually, the new KB45 motors (like a feigao, only larger) should have enough torque to push it.....

there are versions with different KV's on this site as well....steven vaccaro put the KB45 10XL on 6s lipo and a hydra 240 in his SW36 and it got 42mph

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=kb-45-10xl

here is the thread on it

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=1102

ryan_t888

From what I've heard, the Hydra ESC's are pretty good. - 120/240
I've never heard of one catching on fire. In fact I've never heard of an ESC catch fire as FETS usually just pop and let out thick smoke. I've popped a few ESC's and there's was only smoke. If it was fire I'd probably be out of a boat right now.

Ryan

Team A-Hull

Sounds like fun! Looking for a good hull now for a brushless setup! Curious how do you think the thunder cat would do brushless?

This hobby is addicting! lol!

big thunder

my friend converted a thunder cat to bl and it had 2 nemesis in it and ran ok

Team A-Hull

Saleen do you know the weight of that hull on it's own?
Also i rember you telling me to get two of the deans y harneses for those double turn motors. Is that one to run the motor in a series and the second for the batteries in a series. Was curious some told be to run batteries in a series and engines parellel.

Can't wait to see the boat run!

saleens7

if you want to run batts in a series (two 6 cell 3000mah packs in a series makes 14.4volts total with 3000mah) you would use a Y harness...if you would want to run the batts in parallel (two 6 cell 3000mah packs in parallel makes 7.2volts total with 6000mah).....with motors, running two in a series off an esc (can only be done with brushed motors) the batts voltage will be split in half to each motor (if you ran a 6 cell pack, each motor get 3.6v) however each motor will get the total mah of the batt (gives you longer run times)....if wiring motors in parallel, each motor get the full voltage of the batt, but only half of the mah....

i dont remember saying ahything about double turn motors.....i think what you meant was running two motors on one esc...

saleens7

well the batts are charged and i programmed the esc...however there is vibration in the driveline...i took off the flex cable and the vibration stopped.....so i think its the cable...ill roder another and see if thats it...however, when the cable comes out of the teflon to the motor, its not pointed directly toward the coupler....its off a little...when pushed into the coupler, it has to move up slightly (only 1-2mm) but just in case this could also be a reason for the vibrating....

Team A-Hull

How is the final phase of the boat coming along? Got a shockwave 36 hull with hardware and i would like to do the same but i really want something solid around 35 with no meltdowns. Steves conversion looked pretty good but just need more info before i get started.

I hope it's up in running as you expected...

Team A-Hull

Let me know what you think of your 36 and if this is a build worth starting?

saleens7

well....no progress really....i havent been able to buy a new flex shaft lately....let say getting your mountain bike repaired after it breaking countless times on the trails isnt cheap...i really wish i could get it running though...i think once i get this and the supervee finished, ill be done with building for a while...i need the extra cash to maintain my bike and ive been planning to buy a traxxas stampede for the last few months and ill need to save up for it,,,

my SW36....well...its an OK hull, but it seems to be built heavy and weak...but since you already have the hull, you might as well try the conversion....i just suggest you use lipo's and maybe even one of those new KB45 motors that steven sells...the hull is already heavy and the 24 nimh cells doesent help.....i think i may just have to buy the 1000Kv version of that motor...im starting to doubt the feigao will have enough power...