ryan_t888

If your battery is the only component that is getting hot, it is easy to see what is the weakest link in your system. If a battery is getting too hot it can not provide the amount of continuous current being pulled by the motor. The C rating multiplied by the battery capacity in amp hours will tell you the maximum continuous current output the battery can handle.

If your batery is 800mAh @ 15C. That is 0.8Ah * 15 = 12A. If it were to be 4000mAh @ 15C = 60A If it were 5000mAh @ 30C = 150A. This value typically should be higher than your ESC rating to ensure excellent performance. Try this method. I don't know if you meant 800mAh as this is extremely low.

Ryan

mike walker

Thanks for the info, I think this makes sense to me This tread just may make me understand elec. thanks , mike

gt monster

Hi guys.
I think I have all the parts ordered now, but want to ask a few questions to make sure that I am not going to be short.

1) Please can you explain what the thrust bearing does and how I would fit it to the following setup. The Neu 1527/1y motor with 8mm shaft fits into a connector which connects to a 3/16 flexible shaft which. Where does the thrust bearing go.

2) The flexable shaft goes into a nylon tube which sits inside a brass tube. Should the brass tube stick out of the back of the boat and how do you stop water getting back up the tubes, should they be tight enough to stop this from happening?

ryan_t888

Thrust bearing is placed between the 8mm coupler and motor mount or motor can. This way the thrust is transmitted to the motor mount or motor can.

Ideal situation for a stinger - bring the stuffing tube/brass tube as close as possible on either side and secure it well. If you are using a strut I stop mine just after the brass tube exits the transom BUT if you bring it right up to the strut you will prevent any knotting in the flex cable from the torque load. It's always best to bring it as far as it can go and secure it well.

Ryan

monsterbrad

Does anybody here have a toysport boat?

Jeff Wohlt

Got two of these in. WOW is all I can say. Running one tonight but qaulity is perfect. Excellent workmanship. All the details are there and the hull is sweet. We will run it tonight and see how it does.

I have been around boats for years and this IS the best RTR I have ever seen. Congrats on bringing a killer boat to the sport. Very nice!!

One has to go and will include S&H in the US for $495

It was worth the wait!!

ryan_t888

This thread will be updated in the next couple weeks with additional information, small wording changes, spelling corrections and a new catchy title to better catch the eyes of New Boaters.

Ryan

proffesso

hey guys, what would you recommend for a 25" fairly shallow v fiberglass hull, similar to this - http://www.finedesignrc.com/boats/NoStepnew.jpg

just need a setup that will spank the pants off a ARPro boat my friend bought, he's running 3s I think.



also, brushless recommendations for a Graupner Systems Cat (currently dual Speed600 brushes motors) and Kyosho 800 (single Lemans360PT or ST) would be appreciated as well, but these arent really speed demons.

cheers

James,

poucedeleon

Hey Ryan,
How about a Excel spreadsheet that you can put your values in and have it give you the correct output.

ryan_t888

Any budget? Do you also want to run 3s?

I have several of them on my laptop that I created. Problem is there are several variables that all effect the load of the motor. These variables make it difficult to determine the actual values and leave some combinations too far off from reality. Only basic stuff like predicting speed from a motor setup could be useful. Even then it's a caluclator that assumes a lot and will not always be correct.

Ryan

petrix

can you pls tell me what is the diameter of the prop you use?

ryan_t888

Used for what?

I have used props from 30mm - 80mm.

Ryan

proffesso

Hi Ryan,

my budget - fairly cheap, like I said, these boats are just fun runners, just need more speed than what the stock motors have.

2 - 3s is fine, i have no lipo setups yet, so i will need to purchace everything after I get a good idea as to recommendations

note - motors like feigao etc are extremely hard to get here in japan for some reason, unless any of you know of a good HK shop that can deliver international?

the other thing is, the motors need to have a 3.12mm (?) shaft size, for the gearboxes on these boats...i dont have the tools nor time to hack a new motormount or get new shafts/cables etc...quite limiting I know, basiclly im looking for somthing I can just drop in.

the graupner might be tricky there, as it uses 2 motors geared to a single outdrive...do brushless play well teamed up? i can just make it single motor of course...but twin looks better

can get all sorts of car motors here, hacker/lrp etc...but the turns are extremly low and Kv rating very high..I have no idea how they might play on these boats


cheers

james,

ryan_t888

Your setup is not really open to a wide variety of options. You want to upgrade but there will be a limit to what you can do. The stock hardware and transmission can only take so much power. You may want to look over the threads for information as I have no experience directly with that hull.

As far as the "25'' fairly shallow v fiberglass hull" what do yuou plan to do? Do you have the hull already? DO you have hardware?

Ryan

proffesso

the 25" hull is an option, but not a great one. I can get the hull, but would need to source the hardware internationally. hence would rather just do a quick and dirty upgrade of what I have

also, just out of curiosity, is there a mabuchi 540 brushless equivilent? i wouldnt mind upgrading some of my old, old tamiya models to get some better runtimes (wildwilly 1 / monsterbeetle etc) but those cars barely handle a stock 540, so more power is pointless.

ryan_t888

It depends on which wind the 540 motor is. Look up the specs of the motor and find out the KV rating. Compare this number to one of a 540 S Brushless motor.

Ryan

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Ryan has started a new thread with additional information for those interested - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9069147/tm.htm

Certainly a huge effort

He asked for the new thread to be stickied to the top of the forum and asked that this one be released.

gt monster

Hi Guys.
I'm just getting round to picking up from where I left my build on hold 4 years back...

Please can someone advise a coupler for a Neu 1527/1y with and 8mm smooth shaft to a 4.8mm (5mm) flex shaft? I can only seem to find ones on ebay rated to max 19,000 rpm but am hoping to go closer to 40,000rpm. Also please can someone remind me what the thrust bearing is for (possibly a link to a picture) and where to get one?

Many thanks.
James

785boats

Here's an 8mm to 3/16" (.187") . That's 4.76MM. Is the shaft you have 5mm or 3/16"?

[link]http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe8mm18[/link]


OSE also sell thrust bearings.

They go between the coupler & the mounting plate to take the pressure off the bearings in the motor. I'm not sure if Nue motors really need them. I don't run one on mine. But other people will have different ideas on that.

[link]http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=boc-f8-16g[/link]

gt monster

Thanks 785,
I'm presuming that as my callipers say its a 4.78mm flex that your spot on with the 3/16 coupler. I have now ordered one from Fine Designs as his shipping costs are far more realistic to the UK.

I think that next I probably should start a build thread as am sure I'll prob need far more help along the way!

785boats

That sounds like a plan James.
You'll get a lot of action then. And some good info, from some good people.
This is a very old thread that you tagged on to.

All the best.
Paul.