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Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread

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Old 07-18-2011, 04:56 PM
  #2176
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Y'all are too much, you're gonna get me all verclempt. Couldn't be helping a nicer bunch of fellas, IMO. Sdg
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:05 PM
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LOL  love Mike Myers from the SNL Days.
"Rode Island is neither a road nor an island, discuss amongst yourselves...."

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Old 07-18-2011, 08:56 PM
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Coffee Talk with Linda Richman!!

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Old 07-18-2011, 09:09 PM
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Some photos of the hull progress....

Took the whole thing apart... except the upper and lower halves. I ran some CA around the inner seam of the hull 2x even though there was no leaks when I water tested. A bit of insurance perhaps!



And took it to work today (we have a bodyshop at our dealership)... and our painter just so happened to be painting an Audi A4 in black... so I scuffed up the top half of the hull and it got masked... and sprayed. I like the results. Just trying to figure out how to break up the solid colors with some stickers or something. On to the pics...



Got some more confirmations of items being shipped.... its coming along. Hope to start assembling things later this week or early next.

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Old 07-18-2011, 09:19 PM
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Hey, I've seen guys have these cool water outlets for the cooling system... look like a metal button or something that's 2 parts and screws together.

Anyone know of these? I want to put one on my boat!

Thx
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:54 PM
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sweet lookin paintjob man!  some red stripes or maybe some stickers will help to complete the look. maybe a skull and crossbones it kinda looks like the boat that the bad guy would be driving if it were a movie.  maybe mount some guns on it too.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:05 AM
  #2182
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Forget the clamp-on water outlets.....

An UN-POPPED pop rivet works a treat, and a hell of a lot cheaper.
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Diversion900

Forget the clamp-on water outlets.....

An UN-POPPED pop rivet works a treat, and a hell of a lot cheaper.
You mean slide off the pin from the rivet... and use just the hat? I'm assuming then drill a hole and it's held in by some goop and the hose. If that's what you mean... sounds cool.

Still wouldn't mind checking out the outlets I mentioned.

Thx for the tip! I think I might have black rivets too!
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: DashRiprock

sweet lookin paintjob man! some red stripes or maybe some stickers will help to complete the look. maybe a skull and crossbones it kinda looks like the boat that the bad guy would be driving if it were a movie. maybe mount some guns on it too.
Thx... yeah, I want to break up the solid colors with something. Just haven't figured it out yet.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:41 AM
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Here:<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" />http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80895

That is where I buy most of my boat stuff from (aside from HK) and the service there is excelent! Usually ships cheap and quick, and if you break something, you can call them and they may replace the item free of charge (at least that's what they did with my motor cooling jacket)

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Old 07-19-2011, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: ISIRC10

Here: <meta http-equiv=''content-type'' content=''text/html; charset=utf-8'' />http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80895

That is where I buy most of my boat stuff from (aside from HK) and the service there is excelent! Usually ships cheap and quick, and if you break something, you can call them and they may replace the item free of charge (at least that's what they did with my motor cooling jacket)

Thx!! I ordered some fittings from FunRCBoats or something this morning... and some more from offshore just now. Thx for the link. One of the shipments should arrive in time for me to build and finish my boat!! haha...

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Old 07-22-2011, 05:00 AM
  #2187
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Bored.... waiting for all my parts to arrive!
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Diversion900

Forget the clamp-on water outlets.....

An UN-POPPED pop rivet works a treat, and a hell of a lot cheaper.
The simpler the better. I just drill a hole slightly undersized for the tubing and just push the tubing through that - leaving about 1/4" sticking out. Done
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:06 PM
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I used the grommet for the aerial.

Drilled a small hole for the aerial by the base of the roll cage and wrapped the aerial around the roll cage, secured at the end with black insulation tape. Removed the grommet (thought you could probably leave it in the same spot if you wanted) and filled the hole. Sent a drill through the coaming and pushed in the grommet. My motor came with two threaded brass fittings that happened to screw in snuggly to the rubber grommet. No leaks and looks professional as... Bro!!!
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:55 AM
  #2190
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I'm after a bit of technical support here...

I blew up my 35A turnigy... (water somehow made it's way into the water proof case??), and Ihad a temporary (seems semi permanent!) fix of a 25A turnigy ESC instead. They are both boat speedies, and both water cooled. I'm running a 4800Kv water cooled inrunner (hobbyking) and Irun it on either 2cell or 3cell. My problem is that my boat will switch between low power or high power depending on each time Ipull the throttle. It may be full speed one second, and as long as I hold my throttle partly on all the time, it stays like that. As soon as Ilet go of the throttle, it may go down to about 25% throttle. I obviously can't go in any running water like this because it wont be able to pull itself out of any problems. Has anyone else had this problem?? Iknow Ihave to get another esc, but thought Iwould check here first.

Thanks in advance.
Shev

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Old 07-25-2011, 11:30 PM
  #2191
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Hey Sundogz.... great news. Got my motor today... and it bolts on with zero mods. Like a glove!!!

Got this one: [link]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/__8594__2848SL_3900kv_Brushless_Inrunner_WaterCool ed_.html[/link]

the assembly begins tomorrow!!!
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:11 AM
  #2192
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Man that's great! You'll need a ride or cav plate (or trim tabs) to keep it from porpoising at speed as that motor is in a different league as far as power is concerned. I run that motor and 60A esc's in the jet ski's and no problems. Well, we had one problem. I let a newby friend try one out and he was puttering around for 10-15 minutes at slow speed and finally the boat quit. The motor would cog and sputter but not go - like it had an obstruction wrapped around the prop or something. But after it cooled fully all was well again. Slow speed is hard on an esc.
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: sundogz

Man that's great! You'll need a ride or cav plate (or trim tabs) to keep it from porpoising at speed as that motor is in a different league as far as power is concerned. I run that motor and 60A esc's in the jet ski's and no problems. Well, we had one problem. I let a newby friend try one out and he was puttering around for 10-15 minutes at slow speed and finally the boat quit. The motor would cog and sputter but not go - like it had an obstruction wrapped around the prop or something. But after it cooled fully all was well again. Slow speed is hard on an esc.
I'm no fabricator... does anyone make these ride or cav plates? I have 2 motor mount adapters to trade with someone! haha...

Yep, have a 60A esc for this package, however what sucks is the bullet connectors are a different size between the motor and esc. You can buy that stuff at the local hobby shop right?

Heading to a friends house tonight to put the coupler on the lathe and open it up a bit to fit the shaft on the motor. I'm trying to build this boat once... and then fix it as it self destructs!! haha..

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Old 07-26-2011, 06:04 AM
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Anyone here ever removed that spacer between the motor and jet assembly? I'm assuming it has something to do with keeping the heat from the motor off the plastic jet housing. Just would be nicer to have a bit more shaft into the coupler.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: TheOtherSide


I'm no fabricator... does anyone make these ride or cav plates? I have 2 motor mount adapters to trade with someone! haha...

Yep, have a 60A esc for this package, however what sucks is the bullet connectors are a different size between the motor and esc. You can buy that stuff at the local hobby shop right?

Heading to a friends house tonight to put the coupler on the lathe and open it up a bit to fit the shaft on the motor. I'm trying to build this boat once... and then fix it as it self destructs!! haha..
Just take some stiff plastic and cut a slot big enough to straddle the jet intake, and either use the jet mounting screws or plastic epoxy (or both) to attach it. Length and width is not critical - just have it extend past the steering nozzle an inch or two. Or glue some 'L' shaped tabs to the transom like on FE boats, that should do the same thing. Yes, a hobby shop should have bullet connectors, 4mm or larger will do. Good luck on that coupler - it's hard to redo one without getting some wobble in it.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:13 AM
  #2196
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ORIGINAL: TheOtherSide

Anyone here ever removed that spacer between the motor and jet assembly? I'm assuming it has something to do with keeping the heat from the motor off the plastic jet housing. Just would be nicer to have a bit more shaft into the coupler.
I believe it is printed circuit board (pcb) material (which would make a good ride plate!) and insulates from the heat and also serves as a spacer so the motor mount screws won't reach and damage the motor windings.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:00 PM
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Got 3.5mm bullets... and turned the coupler in the lathe... very clean and straight. He can make me custom ones too... so I may make a longer one later on so there is more of the shafts inside the coupler for a more true spin.
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:47 AM
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Pic of the coupler in the lathe... it's mounted pretty deep into the lathe... there's no wiggle, dead straight.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:56 PM
  #2199
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Okhow do post pictures easy. Got them to upload down below but now I can't find them
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: shev



I'm after a bit of technical support here...

I blew up my 35A turnigy... (water somehow made it's way into the water proof case??), and Ihad a temporary (seems semi permanent!) fix of a 25A turnigy ESC instead. They are both boat speedies, and both water cooled. I'm running a 4800Kv water cooled inrunner (hobbyking) and Irun it on either 2cell or 3cell. My problem is that my boat will switch between low power or high power depending on each time Ipull the throttle. It may be full speed one second, and as long as I hold my throttle partly on all the time, it stays like that. As soon as Ilet go of the throttle, it may go down to about 25% throttle. I obviously can't go in any running water like this because it wont be able to pull itself out of any problems. Has anyone else had this problem?? Iknow Ihave to get another esc, but thought Iwould check here first.

Thanks in advance.
Shev

Imust admit, I've read through the entire forum, and asked maybe 4 questions... I've been lucky to have one of them even looked at or responded to.
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