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  1. #3026

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: SkR8Pn


    ORIGINAL: Ratrunner

    the tamiya PC paints will work fine on the boat. i am unsure of others that would work.

    i have decided that i will paint mine, but haven't done so yet....

    Jason.
    Thanks, i'm unsure of colours but really just wanted to still have a hull left after painting it....

    Those cheap as rattle's at supercheap probably would also... Β*i've seen it on lexan and it held shape but knowing my luck id melt stuff.

    Thanks again
    Ja

    I've read on another forum that auto paint in a rattle can is a good option also. Might cost a little more, but the results might be worth it.

  2. #3027

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: damfurst
    I've read on another forum that auto paint in a rattle can is a good option also. Might cost a little more, but the results might be worth it.
    I would of thought that Auto paint would melt it....... Good to know. Thanks bud

    SCX10 Truggyx2, Wraith
    Ota R31, 16FM, D3.

  3. #3028
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    RE: Unofficial

    I've always heard and learned that holding the can farther away from the project helps. The solvent dissipates before the paint hits the foam.
    If it\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s not broke, fix it until it is

  4. #3029

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    RE: Unofficial

    has anyone noticed with the high kv motors the pump not repriming on its own when it leaves the water. me and my friend built new jetboats he got a 2030 4000kv motor on 3s and i was running a 2436 3600kv motor. when we were running them we noticed that his drive wouldnt reprime unless he almost stopped the motor but mine jumped and hopped out the water with no problems. now that i have moved to a 2040 3800kv motor i am having the same problem as him! the only thing i can think of is the rpm that the motor is hitting is too fast for the pump to reprime properly and it just keeps cavitating. because the larger diameter motor took a little longer it could reprime before the rpm was too high.

  5. #3030

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    RE: Unofficial

    Thought you may of cut it out with a chainsaw lol

  6. #3031

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    RE: Unofficial

    I used a spray can enamel (Dulux), undercoating first, top coats, then finished with a clear spray lacquer. While it looked really impressive and shiny it took forever for the paint to harden (probably due to my impatience to apply the next coat & it was cooler weather) the paint is really too brittle and chips easily when bumped and now looks pretty ratty. I was going to try an acrylic hobby paint with an airbrush next, wondering if anyone has had good results with them or to stick to a solvent based paint?

  7. #3032

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: swervyn

    Thought you may of cut it out with a chainsaw lol
    LOL me too hahaha very tidy otherwise though


  8. #3033

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: geofrancis

    has anyone noticed with the high kv motors the pump not repriming on its own when it leaves the water. me and my friend built new jetboats he got a 2030 4000kv motor on 3s and i was running a 2436 3600kv motor. when we were running them we noticed that his drive wouldnt reprime unless he almost stopped the motor but mine jumped and hopped out the water with no problems. now that i have moved to a 2040 3800kv motor i am having the same problem as him! the only thing i can think of is the rpm that the motor is hitting is too fast for the pump to reprime properly and it just keeps cavitating.Β* becauseΒ* the larger diameter motor took a little longer it could reprime before the rpm was too high.
    Yep - the general recommendation is to go for around 3,000 rpm if you are running 3S - the Giant Shark one that I linked to was 2,900 and works perfectly, flat out every where, did you get one of the higher kV ones?

  9. #3034

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: swervyn

    I used a spray can enamel (Dulux), undercoating first, top coats, then finished with a clear spray lacquer. While it looked really impressive and shiny it took forever for the paint to harden (probably due to my impatience to apply the next coat & it was cooler weather) the paint is really too brittle and chips easily when bumped and now looks pretty ratty. I was going to try an acrylic hobby paint with an airbrush next, wondering if anyone has had good results with them or to stick to a solvent based paint?

    I was wondering if it would crack (chip) after a few hits. There use to be a paint that you could get from bunningsthat was for plastic and was flexible, cant remember name though..... I'll bite the bullet and grab some cans tomorrow
    SCX10 Truggyx2, Wraith
    Ota R31, 16FM, D3.

  10. #3035

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    RE: Unofficial

    Yea I had a 3600kv before then went fine. But I think it was the larger motor diameter that was stopping it accelerating to fast. Or it may be accelerating faster? Whatever reason I think I am going back to the 3600kv motor it performed much better. I found that groupner make a 7mm diameter universal coupling that should fit directly onto the jet drive.


    edit:after some experimentation i have found it to be the smaller motors not accelerating fast enough to prime the drive. the 20mm motors take that extra split second to accelerate and hit a much higher rpm with no load than the wider inrunners and the outrunners plus with the battery further forward and lighter than stock the drive is sitting further out the water so its having to lift the water up into the drive. so next test is either weight or a wider motor because now i think of it when i was running the stock motor on 3s i didnt get any cavitation either.

    more edit:after more testing down the river i discovered that it was far too light at the back. but i didnt have this problem before and i couldnt work out why untill i realised that i changed the servo at the same time as the motor from the big heavy s3003 to a tg9 this had the adverse effect that it made the rear too light. so what i done was move the battery right back to the rear of the boat with the servo on the other side and the esc way forward to give the bow some weight. i found that the more weight you can put to the bow and stern the more stabibity you will gain.


  11. #3036

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    RE: Unofficial



    I'm building another sprint now, so old faithful's rebuild is on hold till i get this one out... pretty usual stuff except i noticed that thejet driveon this one had a huge molded circle in the housing,

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    SCX10 Truggyx2, Wraith
    Ota R31, 16FM, D3.

  12. #3037

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    RE: Unofficial

    Most of the jet drive mods done.....
    SCX10 Truggyx2, Wraith
    Ota R31, 16FM, D3.

  13. #3038

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    RE: Unofficial

    Looking good there SkR8Pn. Like the bearing mod there .

    Here's a short vid of my Tear Into one day on the creek.

    [link]http://youtu.be/y2R7ZJSQqAM[/link]

  14. #3039

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: damfurst

    Looking good there SkR8Pn. Like the bearing mod there .

    Here's a short vid of my Tear Into one day on the creek.

    [link]http://youtu.be/y2R7ZJSQqAM[/link]
    Nice vid damfurst.. The house was quite when i watched the vid, i didn't realise that the volume was up on the comp... Just bout fell off my seatonceit loaded andthe music kicked in... lol

    I'm glad you liked the mod, Thanks for sharing
    SCX10 Truggyx2, Wraith
    Ota R31, 16FM, D3.

  15. #3040

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    RE: Unofficial

    Hey guys,
    Been a month or two since I last ran my boat, and that was because the battery cable kept falling off... (solder just didn't want to stick in the end)
    The thickness of the ESC battery cable on the Turnigy Aquastar 120 amp is intense... Very well made, but possibly a touch too thick?
    Anyways, thicker cable means better transfer of Amps, so I shouldn't complain... I used to have a T-Connector on all my batteries as well as all my models... This is now changed on all of the above to a nice XT60 connector, they seem WAAAAAAYYYYY better than the old T-Connector, hopefully looks aren'tdeceiving
    Can I just say, I bought one of those Mr JIG, that Hobby King sells (others as well I presume)... What a fantastic piece of aluminium, sooo handy, even made my soldering turn out good!!!

    Below is a pic of what it looks like, at ~$8 you can't go wrong I reckon
    By the way, since the boat has been sitting for a little while, it feels as if it has seized up a bit... Is this normal for electrical motors in boats?
    I mean they do tend to get a bit wet/submerged slightly in water... and if that water is salt water, it might explain it?
    Are there anything that I should do after a run?
    I clean the boat inside and out with fresh water, as well as run fresh water through the entire cooling system, what do you guys do?
    Cheers
    Martin

  16. #3041

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    RE: Unofficial

    Can we post boats for sale on here? I need to sell both of my jet boats, controller, batteries etc... And would rather sell on here the FeeBay.

  17. #3042

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: duckdogs14

    Can we post boats for sale on here? I need to sell both of my jet boats, controller, batteriesΒ* etc... And would rather sell on here the FeeBay.
    Post what you have for sale under the Buy& Sell tab at the top of the page.

  18. #3043
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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: duckdogs14

    Can we post boats for sale on here? I need to sell both of my jet boats, controller, batteriesΒ* etc... And would rather sell on here the FeeBay.
    Post a link here so it's easy to find. I would like to see your ad.
    If it\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s not broke, fix it until it is

  19. #3044
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    RE: Unofficial

    Yes, I am changing all my small boats to XT60's as well. And my larger boats get 8mm bullets. I got one of them fancy jigs too, but I must have gotten the next cheaper model, because it doesn't have the slot for XT60's. I use another jig for that!
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    Arpro Mono,Genesis,Tenshock Essenz, PowerJet Viper,ABC Jet Ski,TearInto Jet Sprint, Legend & Discovery Sailers, JetCat proto

  20. #3045

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    RE: Unofficial

    If I can figure out how to I will =) thank you for the heads up.
    ORIGINAL: Wheelnut


    ORIGINAL: duckdogs14

    Can we post boats for sale on here? I need to sell both of my jet boats, controller, batteries etc... And would rather sell on here the FeeBay.
    Post a link here so it's easy to find. I would like to see your ad.

  21. #3046

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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: sundogz

    Yes, I am changing all my small boats to XT60's as well. And my larger boats get 8mm bullets. I got one of them fancy jigs too, but I must have gotten the next cheaper model, because it doesn't have the slot for XT60's. I use another jig for that!
    LOL Dave

  22. #3047

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    RE: Unofficial

    TRX connectors for me (on everything!) and yep, had one of those jigs but got sick of the smoke lol, either Mr Jig or 17mm slab of cement sheet!

  23. #3048

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    RE: Unofficial

    Gold Sundogz!

  24. #3049
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    RE: Unofficial


    ORIGINAL: sundogz

    Yes, I am changing all my small boats to XT60's as well. And my larger boats get 8mm bullets. I got one of them fancy jigs too, but I must have gotten the next cheaper model, because it doesn't have the slot for XT60's. I use another jig for that!
    You might find these a little more handy. I have been using them for years and since I'm into RC boats, cars and planes I do a lot of soldering.
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    If it\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'s not broke, fix it until it is

  25. #3050

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    RE: Unofficial

    i have XT60's on all of my RC stuff with the exception of my crawler. still have a Tamiya plug on that.
    as it's super low current, it works fine.

    i even use the XT60's on my 12S lipo powered E-Trike.
    they are just so much easier to solder than the deans plugs.

    Jason.



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