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KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

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Old 12-08-2009, 05:51 AM
  #26  
norbique
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

I've read people removing one shim as a mod. It seems the shims make the rotor fit too tight and it stresses the bearings.
My friend got his KB45L 1800KV and we tested it yesterday. Free run for short period of time. What was surprising to us is how well balanced the rotor is, but on the other hand the front end of the motor was heating up much faster than the can itself. This seems to be problem with the too tight shims inside we think.
Does anyone know how to disassemble the KB45 in a humane way?! I can see glue on the outside so no question there, but are the ends threaded and glued or just press fitted and glued?
Old 12-08-2009, 04:34 PM
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gonggongboy
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

I believe the only way to pop one of is to hit the shaft gentle on a flat surface for a couple of time until it pops off. These is surely more, less risky ways to do it but thats all ive heard.

Also i might end up buying two kb45l because of the 1800kv rating which is right on the dot of rpms i was looking for.
Old 12-08-2009, 10:01 PM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950


ORIGINAL: gonggongboy

I believe the only way to pop one of is to hit the shaft gentle on a flat surface for a couple of time until it pops off. These is surely more, less risky ways to do it but thats all ive heard.

Also i might end up buying two kb45l because of the 1800kv rating which is right on the dot of rpms i was looking for.

NOOOOOO!

The front cover unscrews easily. Just install mounting screws and twist counter clockwise. Easy Peasy...
Old 12-09-2009, 11:39 AM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

Thanks BACKEMF!

So it unscrews, but what's with the transparent glue I can see where the front and the can meets?
Old 12-09-2009, 04:52 PM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950


ORIGINAL: norbique

Thanks BACKEMF!

So it unscrews, but what's with the transparent glue I can see where the front and the can meets?
[sm=50_50.gif] Hmmm, mine didn't but that was a year or more ago... not sure, sorry. Maybe they put a dab of glue there so they don't unscrew ???
Old 12-09-2009, 07:33 PM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

Jeeeez. My bad i thought they were like most brushless motors never knew they were threaded. Sorry about that.
Old 01-02-2010, 08:00 PM
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tanasit
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

I made the similar mistake when I bought a RTR that came with the cheapo 3900 kv motor (bigger kv number almost always impress the newbies!).
This very motor caused me several ESC even though they rate 150 A and up. I am also thinking about getting a KB45 just for testing but afraid to fry another ESC, so here I am after searching this wonderful and informative forum and may have saved me $$$ already.

Thanks to all the contributors.
Old 01-03-2010, 04:45 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

the clear stuff is resin, they soak the wires in it aswell for a protective coat, they can be run under water (with waterproof bearings) i did the same mod, removed one shim from the rear and put in another nylon thrust washer so no metal grinding, i was thinking of putting some high temp lithium grease on the inside of the bearings, only a small amount, but dont know if it would ignite with the heat, removing the one shim has brought the temp's down by almost half over a 1 minute runtime

DO NOT remove anything other than the shim, the blue stuff on the magnet rotor is for balance like they do on wheel rims and the rest is all protective coating
Old 01-05-2010, 01:17 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950


ORIGINAL: gonggongboy

I saw a forum on Offshorelectrics, were a guy rebuilt his kb45. His problem was that the shims in the motor were to tight causing play and poor effeincy. And simply as by buying new shims of different size he increased the effiency alot more than it was. Now he has no problem with keeping it cool and its has little at all play.
I wonder if this is the reason the KB motors suck and pull so many amps?
Old 01-05-2010, 01:20 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

it is till you remove one shim from the rear endand put in a nylon washer, i have about 2mm-3mm play now like i have in all my motors, this was the first one i modifyed, but its running cooler now with the shim gone
Old 01-05-2010, 07:42 PM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

I think they just take two shims and just cram them in there. Instead of adjusting the gap perfectly.
Old 01-05-2010, 11:09 PM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

Possibly why they are cheap?
Old 01-06-2010, 02:37 AM
  #38  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

they have 3 shims in the back, thats why there so tight, its easy to knock the back end cap of and take one out
Old 01-06-2010, 11:08 AM
  #39  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

did I understand right that the front end is threaded and the back end is press fitted?
Old 01-06-2010, 11:49 AM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950



yeah, your correct, the back is press fitted, thats why i put thread locker front and back

Old 01-06-2010, 02:41 PM
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950


ORIGINAL: nick 30



yeah, your correct, the back is press fitted, thats why i put thread locker front and back

post a link if you can to what lock you used, thanks
Old 01-06-2010, 02:47 PM
  #42  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

i have no link for it but its called ZAP Z42 premium grade thread locker
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:05 AM
  #43  
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Default RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950

right on Nick, thanks

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