Cornelp

You should be ok then... Why don't you just dremel the strut? You only need another 5mm adjustment, as you are high with it now. Just to allow you to drop it to the sponson line.

nick 30

not a bad point there cornel, i can drill another 2 holes and then dremel the rest out, i need to get a dremel first so down to the local DIY centre tomorow then, i've ordered some new oilite bearings aswell to go inside the strut shaft

nick 30

this is costing me a fortune

Cornelp

Just one suggestion: get areal Dremel branded tool, with the cable extension. I burned 3 clones and it got expensive...
Must have parts: flex extension, adjustable chuck... and the new CLICK connect cutting discs...

nick 30

ok mate, no problem

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

6-10mm?
that's a big range..
take a picture for us, lets take a peek!

nick 30

i could be wrong with the measurements but i took cornels advice and drilled 2 extra holes with a cordless drill (did'nt burn it out, used slow speed) now the DIY centre for some files and or dremel so i can straighten it all out

nick 30

heres a few photos of the rear end and upto the first step, i have dremeled some more holes for adjustment up and down, do i need to the strut up so its inline with the edge of the last step

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

just as I thought, the strut is to low..
I would start with 1/4" above the bottom of the rear sponson, and see how that works..
also what prop are you going to try next?

nick 30

the struts low because i pulled it right down, so its inline with first step, will set it inline with the last step, i have a 38mm on at the moment and will be trying 40mm next, got to wait for better weather, its turned very cold again

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

With the 40mm prop, move up the bottom of the strut about 1/4" from the bottom of the rear sponson.. to much prop in the water on a cat will pull more amps and have lower speeds..

nick 30

when i get a chance to get to the lake, i'll try with the 38mm prop then with the 40mm prop moving it upwards as i go, so is inline with the bottom of the last sponson ok

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

no, that's to wet on the prop.. It should be moved up about a 1/4" for starters

nick 30

ok, understood, put it on a flat surface and measure 1/4" and move up, i have moved it up already, when i try the 40mm prop move up again 1/4" as you said

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

the bottom of the strut should be 1/4" up from the bottom of the rear sponson, if that makes sense?
and that sould be good, if its much more than that, the 40mm prop may not have much bite

nick 30

it does make sense, the larger the prop adjust up 1/4"

i would measure down 1/4" from the tunnel bottom but its in a very shallow V and the inside edges are roundedso its a case of trial and error, i put it on a flat surface and measure 1/4" to the bottom of the strut, hopefully my new strut should be here tomorow so i can swap them over

nick 30

am i right in thinking now the strut stays at 1/4" above the bottom of the rear sponson and stays there when a larger prop is put on as the prop blade has a slightly larger surface area in the water but the hull will stay as it is when riding the surface, just using the larger prop to push a bit faster but reduce amp draw from the batt

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

Nick, if it were me, I would start with the 40mm and go for it!

nick 30

you know what mate, i'm thinking the bloody same, i'm going to put the strut 1/4" above the bottom of the rear sponson and just go for it, trial and error as they say, as it'll be running on 4s through a 120a speedo i cant see much trouble being caused, start of slow and give it a quick boost to see if it gets on plane and adjust accordingly

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

Give it a go man!
Check temps after 30sec just to be safe then again after 1min..

brodjack

Hey Nick,did you decide on a HOR cat hull?

nick 30

hey brod mate, yep, waiting for delivery from astec when he gets it, bought a new strudder setup aswell that will fit on the transom but all my hardware will be the same, going to put speedo, rx and servo in a plastic takeaway box to waterproof and maybe do the same with for the batts

brodjack

sounds good,mine should be here next week.
What i do when building FE stuff is,fit all the hardware(rudder,strut,water cooling inlet/outlets) and then tape up the hatch to see if any of those items leak before i go any further.
That way i can eliminate possible leaks as the build goes on.
Not seen these hulls in the flesh yet so quite excited,i know,sad[]
read bad reports about twisted hulls and poor seam joints,yet read good reports too
we shall see.

nick 30

all the people i know who have bought one have never complained i'll check it all when it arrives, got new paint and decals for it aswell except this time painting will be done differently

all the holes i drill are a tight fit for any screws to reduce leaking and the seal the washers and nuts from the inside

ozzie-crawl

there not bad hulls,but if you can put a layer of carbon fibre inside it makes a lot of diffrence, failing that at least run a decent strip of fibreglass cloth over the seam on they inside.
will see if i still have any pics of my old one