nick 30

how do you guys polish a prop, i have a dremel with all the usual accesory's including a polishing wheel, can i just polish away or do i need a polishing compound aswell

cheers nick

JRockZ

I will admit i know NOTHING about polising a prop but i do know since i was a deatiler most of my life you MUST use some kind of compound, a dry buffing surface would not yeild much if any results. Not sure what benifits you would get from a polished prop but if it helps then by all means go for it, i think i read that sharpening them can help as well but seems a little dangerous to me, im the type that will stick my finger in a fan just to see how fast its going or which direction LOL

JRockZ

nick 30

thanks j, i seem to stick my fingers where they should'nt go either mate, sharpening and balancing helps cutting through the water and reduces cavitation, balancing reduces vibration and swings better through the water

ozzie-crawl

you can use the dremel with a polishing wheel, i use a product called auto sole its a past in a tube used for polishing mag wheels on cars

nick 30

thanks oz

SV27dayton

I use a product called Never-Dull (made by Eagle-1). http://www.nevrdull.com/ I use it to polish aluminum parts for bikes/car wheels etc. If you look in my profile. I took all the blue anadized parts from the back of my SV and stripped themwith oven cleaner, sanded them and polished them with this stuff. It comes in a can and looks like unrefined cotton. The compund is integrated. You rub it and then polish with a cotton rag and you'll see yourself in it. (which is not always good LOL). It will take a 600-800 grit sanded surface to a nice reflective finish, in very little time. Seems to work great on stainless bike spokes too.

You can find it at the local automotive parts store here in the states. Don't leave the lid off the can.

nick 30

have any of you guys heard of BRASSO, youclean brass with it, might give that a try and see how it comes out

Tombsy

I use files and the Dremel sanding drum to sharpen and balance the prop, then 280, 400, 600 wet dry sandpaper. To polish (its a debate if polished is better) first I use the Dremel wheel 520 that has built in compound and finish with the buffing wheel with the red compound that comes in the polishing kit.

nick 30

before i venture into the world of balance and sharpen, i would need a lesson (with the person) to show me how its done, i can buy them sharp and balanced so may go that route until i'm ready to do it myself

Tundrahog

I use Dremel grinding stones to get the balance close. Sharpen with needle file and white coarse silicon softies wheel for final balance. Then start to polish.... Start with black medium softies wheel, then blue fine softies wheel, and pink final polish softies wheel. I hit a few with 2000 grit wet sand after final pink wheel....wow mirror finish....takes some time though.

With the softies wheels the abrasives/coumpound is in the silicon istself. No mess with polish compounds and felt/cotton wheels. I have used many felt wheels with polishing compounds. I used Ryobi compounds. Sold any where Ryobi power tools are sold. Found it too messy and went with the softies wheels. Less mess and less time polishing.

You can polish any way you like....I use an old prop shaft with drive dog to hold the prop. Props will get very hot when polishing(use a glove).

Check out this web site....lots of Dremel bits/wheels/polish compounds.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel

nick 30

thanks everyone for replys, some great ideas and advice, will most defo be trying them out

SV27dayton

You inspired me/reminded me. I just ordered 3 props on OSE for testing the cat. Finally going to try the pranther. I have a feeling that will be harder to polish.

nick 30

whats the prather props made of then ?? i thought most were copper berylium or bronze

Tombsy

I just finished a Prather 230 for my Sport40. First time I've done a stainless steel prop, it took awhile longer but it sure polished up nice.

matt420

From my knowledge of props you do not want to polish them,any thing thats in the water you want no shine at all, just a nice satin finish, any thing shiny will just slow you down, water will stick to it, take a glass dinner plate and somethin with a non shiny rough surface and run under water and that will tell ya why,but if your over powered, your just playin around go for it shiny always looks better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nick 30

thanks matt, need to get into the world of balance and sharpening anyway

Tundrahog

There are conflicting opinions RE: this subject. Some say / never polish the BACK of the blade, as this is the push area and should be left untouched. Somewhat ruff to allow for more bite, for the prop to dig-in with less slip. I agree with the above, only when operating at lower RPM. With today's surface drive applications and high RPM. It is vital that both sides (Back & Face) of the prop blades, be polished. The entire surface of the prop should be as smooth as possible, to reduce drag and increase efficiency. Props that are thin and sharp, with (both sides of the blades polished); pierce, and flow thru the water with less resistance. A slippery prop is a fast prop........!!!! However when heat racing in a short oval course, there is some advantage in keeping the back side of the blade somewhat coarse. This allows quick acceleration, and helps pop the boat while pulling out of the turns.