Rake

Sdz, I value your input and experience highly as you know. The only thing I can do now is ask him to stand up to his word on the 45 amp. We'll see what gives tomorrow.

By this measure should I not be looking for an esc that can take upwards of 88 amps ?

Another thing is that this esc has thermal protection so hopefully will kick in if things go pear shaped.

Bass is also running 3s on a high kv motor so I wonder what his potential draw is but I can't remember the motor spec.

Thanks again bud.

sundogz

Downwards of 88A. I guess as long as it's not a 'Force Control' you'll be doing better! I'm looking forward to seeing how Bass' arrangement does (as does he) on longer runs.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, very much so. Im waiting for a day without so much wind!

Rake

OK, it arrived this morning. Gonna have a chat to the chap before soldering the etti bullet connectors on - which I must say look bloody high quality.

Hull repair almost complete so hoping to run her again in the next few days. Will let you know of course.

Bass, with you running on 3S 11.1v on a 3600kv tacon that give something like 39K rpm no load - no wonder your doing barrel rolls
What lipos do you have ?

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Turnigy 3S 1500 mah- Dont remember the C rating off hand.

The stock motor on 4S is only slightly behind in RPM's.

Man Astec was quick for you! Thats awesome! I didnt get bullets with mine- but I bought mine new/second hand for an individual.

Rake

Thanks Bass.

Yep on 4S is only just behind you.

Astec so far in terms of a retailer stocks the best gear and has very good prices and very good service. I'm very pleased with them.
I wont be using the supplier of the el cheapo esc any longer.

The bullets on this thing are absolutly superb. Will post a pic soon.

Regarding the C rating I was just wondering what your esc might see at any given point just to compare our setups.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

I looked at the batts on my way out the door. Turnigy 3S 1500 mah 20-30C

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Well back from the run. Still got issues to work out. I ended up flipping it twice then adjusting the drive to plant the nose. Once I did that I only flipped it over one more time.

The last run it acted kinda weird. Turns out I took on a TON of water. To the point the whole rear of the boat was sunk into the water. I think it came up the flex/teflon. Im going to work on sealing the teflon to the brass (it is loose) and then try packing the teflon with more grease. Also going to add the heat shrink at the drive.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHCI3pf1BB8[/youtube]

sundogz

Bass, where do you put your battery? I don't see any velcro in your pics.

Rake

It looks blooming fast though !

99.9 the water is coming uo the shaft. I have trouble getting mine to seal completely too. Grease and shrink help but not totally.
PekkaL or Yura mentioned something about hot glue on page 7 or thereabouts, havent quite figured what he was on about really but it worked for him.

Spent last night trying to figure out how to solder huger bullets to my ESC with a 30watt iron - could not get the connectors hot enough.
Resorted to a plumbers gas torch - bingo - took seconds !

Here are the pics of these connectors and my repair so far. Appart from some sanding its ready for a lick of white before fitting all the elecronics and taking to the water again.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Two fold reason.

#1 Im out of velcro

#2 theres not enough room between the hull and to of the boat.

Im placing the battery length wise along the width of the boat, about 1" in front of the motor. Im using hatch tape to secure it to the hull

sundogz

Yeah, that's why it has a tendency to flip. If you'll put the battery on the left side it should stop that. The torque is rolling it when it's airborne.

Rake, I've never seen those before. I have several different sizes of bullets here, but it's the outer part that is solid and the inner part is what is flexible (sliced). Who makes those?

Rake

Hi sdz - they are ETTI.

Solid as a bomb these things. Maybe a bit overkill but they are on in any case.

Regarding layout. I was going to try the same as Bass but I like the lip in the left sponson to negate the roll so am toying with the layout below.
Only thing is the cooling pipework. Into ESC then out to motor then outlet.

This way I can switch to 4S / 2600 and back without having to relocate the ESC.

Its just going to be tricky fixing in place. Will have to use some foam to hold things in place I think.

sundogz

I have several sizes/brands types of bullets and it's always the outer part that is solid and the male part that is striated. Interesting! Overkill? what is that? If you've ever experienced hot or desoldered connectors it's probably because the connector was too small (high resistance) and you were losing valuable power to heat energy. I've gotten tired of matching bullet sizes to (possible) loads and have gone exclusively to 8mm bullets for anything using a 5000mah battery or larger. And will soon be replacing my Deans with EC5's in all the rest. If it will fit it the hull, so be it. You may experience overkill in a true racing boat where every bit of weight is computed, but in most applications, bigger is better.

nickster46

I do use gold connectors as well for all my applications after I desoldered the connectors once (from my first TT01 LiPo car. That was for me the reason to make sure this won't happen again. so I bought a shedload of them off ebay for a few pennies.
For soldering them I use the gas torch, very easy.

Rake

Well I tell ya, these babies take a hell of a push / pull to get them to engage / disengage - almost painful so they are good.
I found that the slotted male lost grip over time and came loose all too easily. These are expensive though £1.96 per pair...

Gas torch - yeah nick - discovered that last night after 30 mins trying to heat these beasts up with a 30watt iron.
Plumbers torch - seconds !

Now I gotta try and do some of my day job instead of playing with my boat ! Its a windless day here but trying not to rush things and find the ideal layout.

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

Cool stufff!
does anyone run a 2200mah 3s pack on these little hydros?

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Look towards the front of the thread.

Rake can you get a picture of the ESC as you got it? Looks like your coolant is on the outside. Mine is just 1 line thru the center only.

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

Who prefers to run the bigger 2200mah packs vs the smaller 1300mah?

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

I think the 1500 3S I have is plenty of big.

Hopefully this weekend I can get a full adequate run on the boat. Then I can advise better to run times. From what I can see going on the charger and guessing, with my current setup run times around 10 minutes.

Rake

Will do tomorrow. Time to turn in for the night now. You are right though it's on one side not through the middle. just moving stuff around at the moment trying to find the ideal placement for the esc to allow my 2s to be in the left sponson and my 4s to be horizontal without needing to move the esc.

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

wow that's really great runtime for such small packs
I have a few 2200mah 25c packs that should work awesome in one of these

Rake

There you go Bass,

Pic of the ETTI ESC As promised.

Also I think I have found my ideal layout.

ESC to the right of the motor secured to the top of the hull with velcro. This will cause it to be effectivly suspended so as not to be sitting in water should it get in.
It also allows easy facilitiation of changing between 2S and 4S setups.

Bass can I ask what PWM option you use ?
The manual says 8K for Low KV Inrunners and 16K for high (such as 3000kv) but it also says 16K will produce 20% more heat from the controller so I am questioning it.

Almost time to hit the water again.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Mine is setup exactly as default. I looked thru the paperwork and didnt see any reason to change anything.

Rake

Thanks bass.

After a long time fiddling I'm close to getting back on water but there are still two things not right.
The new coupling is fitted but causes more vibration on bench testing than the old one no matter how much I centralise with the screws. The flex end is perfect but the shaft end has significant play in it.

I am also getting slot of binding on the rudder servo rod too.

Will look again tommorrow