Would that motor fit? What about shaft size? May need a new coupler.
what about the ADS 300 motor from HK?
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Would that motor fit? What about shaft size? May need a new coupler.
what about the ADS 300 motor from HK?
Get ADS 3000 400 watt will fit and has more power.- Landor 632/3 is a mistake!!! 632 as is is better and better yet. Take a 632 and cut down to 630 is the ticket with a hair 1 degree negative angle on strut. The 4800kv is overkill as it will make Bolt unstable and on 2S will end up running 35,500 rpm. I don't think it will hold up structure wise with the bouncing like the BIG boats do in Washington State. I've seen them run as I was stationed in the Army in the 60's and they do bounce hard and take a beating.-Now for prop work , I learned myself thru trial and error many years ago and reading the Prop Duplicator. Cupping the tips is for racers who do this everyday for a living. I see no need for me to do cupping as I use the pitch of the prop for more speed. I use 632 props on small boats with small lipos to keep weight down to attain more speed. I use no trim tabs and fairly small turn fins to reduce drag and my boats run flat on the water thru balance of items in boat. The ADS 3000-400 watt, I have them all, works great on 3S with a 630 prop. -I run monos and 1 bolt. The bolt has a turn fin on right sponson with a hook toward the inside and a little back and is vertical. BTW- that's me. I don't run boats on the edge as I like them to run stable. Have fun is the answer. This will be my last posting on the BOLT.
The ADS300XL? Isn't that overkill for the Bolt?
The size 300 outrunner allone is already a big jump from the 2 pole 20 size stock inrunner.
Please elaborate on your recommendation of the XL. And since you volunteered the prop modification, I would like to take advantage of the opportunity and ask if you canwalk me through cuttting down a prop and bending the tips to a certain degree? Won't this require some sort of jig for blade uniformity?Do you make a template of the blade face first before downsizing it so you retain the shape? Sorry for the newbie questions, I am aware that more experienced boaters do this stuff. It's just that my prop work experience is currently limited to SBP. Would like to bring it to the next level. Ifyou know of a turorial site, it would be much appreciated. Everybody starts somewhere right?
Just gone through 50 pages, there were a few questions raised as to whetheradding turn fins would help from flipping but there was no answer?
Do you think it would help the bolt or just adding unecessary weight?
Stock setup, no need for turn fins.
I haven't receive the bolt yet, should be here in a week. I have a spare 2040 4800kv, octura x432 so will be using that with 2s 2200mah.I assume It will go a lot faster than stock 3s. So with this setup, is still worth while adding turn fins?im ordering some parts overseas for my 1/8 car so was comtemplating whether I should add the fins to the cart also?
Might as well get one mate!
I've been running the Small bolt on 4S 2p, 2s1800mah 40C using this prop. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18245
It runs nice on 3s and nuts of 4s.
On more thing, the prop took a little filing to get it to fit on the stock drive dog.
My Bolt is Back on the water !
Rebuit after its last crash and tested for the first time in years today - 2250 40-50C and flying again !
Read all these posts...picked one up as my first hydro.
Modified a Barbwire to 4S and plan on running 4s as per previous posts.
Using a 28mm dia. 18V max capable inrunner with oct. x632.
Putting a bearing instead of bushing and see how this goes.
As I understand, the Bolt can't handle any kind of chop.
How often do you fellas flip? Just curious...if a recovery boat is a necessity
during each outing.
Appreciate all this information that has been shared.
I've got a 3 problems with brand new Small Bolt with 30A ESC and 3S 2200.
1. The boat is tilted to the right skid in forward motion ( the right skid touches water and the left skid is in the air mostly ). I tried to move the battery to the left - didn't help a lot. What's the matter?
2. The boat takes plenty of water after run. I find the screws not to be tightened enough, but I can't tighten them due to space ( can't fit a screwdriver ). How can i do this?
3. The boat turns to the right much better then turns the left. What's the problem?
Hi Guys, finally bought a Small Bolt too!
My original setup was:
- stock 2604kv motor
- HK esc 90A (too much, I know.. but it was the only one available when I ordr my boat on HK-UK)
- 2x Zippy compact 1300 mAh configured as 4s2p
- stock prop
- metal geared 9g servo
Too slow for me....
I have now swapped to:
- 2040 4800kv motor
- smaller esc (30A)
- 2100mAh 3S 20C batteries Hyperion batteries
I will test this configuration with some props this w.e.
P.S. I have just read these past 50 pages, and I learnt a lot on thsi boat, but I saw a lot of different configurations and none a "final" fully working one... Any suggestion on the arrangements with the hardwade that I have available? I could also buy some new batteries.. I was thinking on the 65-130C, but probably is too much and useless to go with these discharge rations on 2040 motors.... Right?
probably this thread is nearly died, but I had a great week end with mu Small bolt. Actual configuration is working great with the stock prop (I tested a 29 mm but it was still slow).
Unfortunately the Hyperion batteries are very old, so they do not supply enough juyce for the motor, so I ordered a couple of turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 45C ones that should improve the things...
I will keep you updated with my tests!
Hi Guys, I tried a new 2040 4800kv with new Turnigy marine 30A ESC and nanotech 3s 2200mah 45C batteries with original (30mm) propeller. The result was a very fast boat, but I cooked the motor in less than 1 minute ...
Here is the video:
The next step now is a new Tenshock motor:
Pones Number TS-VZ1030 14T 65 3100 1 0,054 28 35 480 20.5*48 d:3 4
This is an high power motor with 4 poles, this means more torque. Combining this motor with the 3S battery pack it should make something like 3100RPM/V *11,1V=34410 RPM. From some web searches it seems that the best range is between 30 and 35000 RPM , so it should be ok. Because of the higher power I will go back to the 90A Hobbyking ESC.
New videos of my tests will follow!
I bought two of these for my son and I, but have a major problem with friction in the shaft in both of them. The boat can't get on the plane as there is not enough power remaining after overcoming the friction. The motor is quite warm after the attempt. It seems to be the last part the prop goes onto rather than the flexi shaft. Ideas please.
I've had the Small Bolt saved in my bookmarks for years but just now finally got around to buying one. Thanks to the advice on this forum I also ordered an Octura x432 prop, sharpened & balanced, two Turnigy 1800mAh 40C lipo packs, a Turnigy Marine 30A watercooled ESC and a Corona 929MG metal gear servo.
I have a nice digital 4CH pistol transmitter but it has too many bells and whistles for a 2CH boat and I thought the foam wheel might get watersoaked messing around with it by the lake so I bought a FlySky FS-GT2B with the rubber wheel and analog trim controls. It uses a USB rechargeable battery and is so cheap that I figure if it falls in the lake I'm only out $25.
The unmachined Octura x432 prop is inexpensive but as has been noted it needs to be sharpened and balanced. I would like to say I didn't want to mess around with sanding the beryllium copper since it is a carcinogenic but the truth is I don't have a boat prop balancer and have no experience sharpening them so I thought I would save myself the headache and bite the bullet ($$$) and order it already sharpened and balanced.
I also ordered hatch seal tape from Kintec Racing. It's just hockey tape but it's a 100 foot roll for only $3 plus shipping so it's a good deal. It's an inch wide and thought it would too wide for the Bolt but it is rubbery and molds to the curves around the hatch perfectly.
The first thing I did was remove the stock servo and replace it with the Corona 929MG metal gear servo. I didn't have to remove the stock servo mount but I did have to shave down the little balsa strip on the left, excuse me, port side of the mount to accomodate the Corona's few extra millimeters. The Corona's mounting tabs fit right inside the notches for the stock servo so I only needed to use the extra cable tie that came with the Bolt to secure the Corona.
UPDATE: After running through a couple of packs I discovered I couldn't get the Bolt trimmed straight anymore. I got it back on the bench and discovered that whenever I turned and let go of the wheel the servo/rudder would always return to a few degrees off center in the opposite direction. I hooked up another transmitter and receiver to make sure it wasn't the radio and turns out it was the Corona 929MG servo. It would chatter and creep. It may have gotten wet; I'm not sure. After much online research I finally found these EMAX ES08MAII metal gear servos on Amazon and one of the reviewers said that they center very well and were about the same size as a Hextronik HXT900 which I know have about the same dimensions as the Corona. The EMAX's are awesome! They are almost a drop-in replacement for the stock servo. I say almost because when I was pushing the EMAX servo down the back balsa support popped off so I glued it back in place with some CA. These EMAX servos are so much quieter than the Corona and center perfectly. They also came as a 4-pack so I have plenty of spares if they get wet and die.
The next thing was figuring out placement of all the components inside the hull. The Small Bolt comes with plenty of extra tubing but I didn't want to cut it in case I need to rearrange later. Turns out that was a good decision since I wound up using all of it. I used stick-on velcro squares to mount the ESC on the port side next to the motor so that extra long length helped avoiding sharp bends and kinks. I also used a little velcro to stick the ESC's on/off switch to the side of the motor to keep it out of any water that collects in the bottom of the boat.
The radio is probably the most water-sensitive component so I used a stick-on velcro square to mount it upside down underneath the decking on the starboard side so if, excuse me, when water gets into the boat the radio it will stay dry(er).
Most of the pictures I have seen show vertical battery placement but I found that even the 1800mAh was a little too long as the battery leads pushed against the motor too much for my liking. I also wanted the CG as far forward as possible so I turned the battery sideways and wedged it underneath the decking. I couldn't use velcro on the bottom since it is impossible to remove velcro sideways so instead I stuck a stick-on velcro square underneath the front lip of the decking and another one on top of the battery and then stuck one end of double-sided velcro one-wrap underneath the decking and the other end on top of the battery. A little under/over action. You just lift the velcro strip and the battery slides out.
One thing that surprised me is that the lasercut plywood stand that comes with the Small Bolt doesn't fit. It is too wide to fit between the sponsons so the Bolt just sort of teeters on the stand and is too easy to knock over when on display. I was going to trim it down but it was so cheap and fragile to begin with that I just threw it away. The width between the sponsons is 3 inches so after much online research I found this plastic stand made for the AquaCraft Mini Rio. It is meant for a V-hull but the edge of the foam cushioning strips are just high enough to catch the flat bottom of the Bolt.
After I got it all together it worked great! Very fast, quick to plane and there were only a few drops of water inside afterwards. I did learn that if I taped the ends of the hatch first and then taped the sides last then I seemed to get less water in the boat. If I had to do it all over again I wouldn't change a thing. I will try to take some video later and post it.
UPDATE #2: I took the Bolt out today and ran through one 1800mah 20C pack with no problem and then put in the other and after only a few minutes the motor would cut out whenever I punched full throttle. I thought I may have forgotten to charge the 2nd battery so I went home and put it on the charger but it was fully charged! I topped off both batteries again and took it out again the next day and the same thing happened but with both batteries! I think those 20C batteries couldn't handle the current draw and the voltage was dropping low enough under load to trigger the ESC's low-voltage cutoff so I ordered a couple of Turnigy1800 mAh 40C packs to see if that solves the problem. I'll update when they arrive.
Last edited by replayreb; 02-20-2017 at 06:52 PM.
Anyone have trouble getting this boat going using a 2200mah 3S battery ? I am using a brand new Protek battery, stock motor, 30A ESC, have made the shaft as free as I can, and it just WON'T go up onto the plan :-( I see others seem to be OK with 2200mah. Do I need a different motor or prop for this battery ?