nickster46

I like the paintjob! I looks like the spanish flag :

Rake

Thanks Nick, I never thought of that !

Yura

One photo from this summer runs.

nickster46

nice picture! made at the right moment. or is it just a screenshot from a movie?
I need to take a couple of action pictures myself. but most of the time I am alone while running.

Yura

Thanks!

nickster46

I ve got myself a nice girlfriend but she isn't into boats at all. I tried to lure her a couple of times but she wouldn't keep me company anymore

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Mine goes reluctantly at times. Shes not a very good camera lady either... My Dad likes to go and video the boats. However he wants to be a commentator which is annoying as all hell.

nickster46

Yesterday I discovered that my prop went a little loose so I decided to tight it up and put new locktite on the axle.
But during that proces I also discovered that the axle (where the prop is fitted on) has got some space in the strut!

I immediately remembered a discussion on this forum about putting a very small bearing inside the strut to prevent this.
What can be done to minimise/prevent the axle to widen the strut? And if I wan't to 'repair' this do I need to buy a new strut?

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Sounds like the drive dog may have loosened?

Its good to have a little gap in between there. It doesnt hurt anything.

Now you dont want a huge gap...

nickster46

The point is that I don't know what the gap was when it was new. But I think I'll leave it this way and see how it goes.

BTW: I sold my NTN-400 V-hull because it was a little too small and I had problems with balancing it (due to the V shape) So decided So I now ordered the Surge Crusher from the HK website. This seems to be a bigger hull and it is a cat so the balance problem is less.

macdon

carakter

macdon - Welcome to the Bolt thread! As you have read from the previous pages, the Bolt, like other FE's, uses "inrunner" motors - these are the smooth can motors where one can place a watercooling jacket over. Can size is 20mm diameter. Can length can go from 40mm and longer. Since you're starting from scratch, you can probably also try 24mm diameter motors.
As for your shaft problems, don't even think of enlarging the strut bushing unless you are able to fabricate a bigger bushing and fit it into the strut.In my opinion (and this is just my opinionok!) you should have bought the complete boat and made modifications/changeslater as the need or the want arises. But we are here to help you make your Bolt run - smoothly and fast!
Having said that, it is bestthat you start posting pictures of your build and problems encountered.

sundogz

Macdon, like Carakter suggested, you should probably purchase a complete boat to start with, and maybe keep this hull/parts for spares. There are some (important if not critical) measurements for the placement of the stuffing tube in the hull, the bend of the tube, the location and height of the strut and rudder, etc. And without knowing these (or seeing an example) you will have a tough row to hoe as far as getting this boat going properly. Although one benefit of starting with an undrilled hull might be to relocate the stuffing tube offcenter to the starboard side slightly (like the Minicat or Tenshock) to offset torque roll. But that is probably not in your league at this point.

You said your prop shaft fits tightly in the strut bushing. Notice a few posts ago Nickster has the opposite problem - his is wallowing out or enlarged, either due to too high RPMs (4S use, no doubt!) or infrequent/inadequate lubing, or both. Too tight is good at this point, as it will break in quickly. You don't want to grind it down, and probably won't need to sand or polish it down. Just clamp it in a cordless drill and spin it dry for a minute at a time, and it should loosen up. Check it frequently and on't go overboard - as soon as it is free enough (turns easily by fingertips) then stop, clean and lube it. Your done. Now you can continue on with the daunting job of building the rest of the boat. This is going to be painstaking to be sure, best of luck.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Without a template to go by it surely will be a bit of a task to get the hardware installed correctly. Its not impossible though.

This should get you started.

Bottom of hull to center of strut bolts is 17/32"

Bottom of hull to center of rudder bolts is 27/64"

Center of strut to center of first (inside) rudder bolt is 1-3/16"

Keep in mind the strut should be centered on the back of the hull. The first set of numbers are for vertical placement only.

Top of the motor mount is 4-3/8" from rear of the hull. Sorry I dont have a way to measure the angle. But if you bought the X Brace motor mount that comes in the assembled Small Bolt then it should fit correctly when the top is at that position.

macdon

@carakter 

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

I was in my boat closet tonight looking through stuff and found my Bolt. I kind of forgot about it! lol

So I went to work on her. Last run I was still taking on water. I removed the motor and the prop shaft/flex. I then cleaned the inside of the stuffing tube up top. Then put some silicone down it. The normal method Ive seen is using a rubber cap of some sort and putting a hole in it, fuel line or heat shrink. I dont have the room for any of these. I only have about 1mm or so between the stuffing tube and the coupler.

Macdon:
2 1/4" from the rear and the slot is about 3/4" long. Looking from the rear it appears my motor mount is offset to the right about 1/8" Cant say if this is accidental, correct or wrong. You may want to dig into the prop walk issue a bit before finalizing.

With these fixes Ive done tonight I hope to get her wet by Tuesday.

I got 4 boat builds going on at the same time now... lol

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Todays refinements:

"Goop" glued servo down. Servo tape was to weak and moved.

I cut some of the fiberglass back around the stuffing tube. I then grabbed a rubber end cap off some K&S brass containers I have. I put the rubber cap on the same size brass rod as my stuffing tube. I then heated it up a few times to shrink fit it to the tube- working it with my fingers. I also flattened the point out on it so its nice and square. Then I drilled a hole in it. Then i heated up the flex cable end and slid it thru. Finally I applied some "Goop" to the stuffing tube and pressed this cap on. Lots of grease on the flex cable. Turns over with minimal resistance.

Im also going to relocate the ESC to the front right sponson as suggested awhile back.

Last Im going to put a hole in it for the antenna tube.

In the water tomorrow, hopefully.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Well todays "run" was horrible. I think the receiver is damaged. The range of the boat on land is about 60-80 yards. In the water it seems to be about 40 feet.

The throttle seemed to be all or nothing. It would rev up for a few seconds then die. Like it was in protect.

Im going to put a BEC on the ESC and do away with the low voltage cut off and give it one more shot.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Installed the BEC and have her floating in the bath tub as I type. Gave it some throttle and she pushed real nice. Kind of cool to watch the cavitation.

So all seems good for now.

Going to retry tomorrow, weather permitting.

rbr77

Hi Guys new to this forum
Years ago had nitro boats but now looking to electric
anyway I have ordered Bolt through HK and some bit's and pieces I was intending to runTurnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 45~90C Lipo Pack I ordered this prior to joining forum after seeing alot of you guys use smaller pack's I hope it will go OK I have very still water to run it on
I got a discount code with battery purchase might be of use to someone http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?c...F-CC08C78A313A
Will be running a Hobbyking SS Boat Series 70A ESC maybe a bit big but all I could find at the time.

Anyway thanks in advance for your time and any thought's returned.

*delete M i k e u p delete*

I see you don't use a piece of small waterline hose on cable between coupler and stuffing tube. Davey Jones likes cable and props in his locker. Picture looks nice inside boat.

sundogz

Two things: that 2200 lipo is a bit large (and heavy). It will fit, and you will have longer runtimes, but will also slow the boat to get on plane and effect top end. That esc doesn't have a built-in bec. You'll need a separate ubec or sbec to operate the radio and servo.

rbr77

Hi Sunzdog
Thanks for reply I did order 5A Turnigy SBEC at time of order as i had seen i would need one. Run time is what i am after before speed but may swap to smaller batt down track and of course try a few props to see which suits best / Nylon prop's till i can afford and learn about sharpening metal.

Thanks Again

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

Hey I got one of these in the mail today!!
its used but looks sweet
is anyone using an outrunner in there Bolt?
oh and what speeds are you guys seeing on the stock electronics? [:-]