FrostyNutz

yfzbrad

Got my MG 4 days ago ran it one time with asupervee72 and after alittle racing i noticed the hull was seperating at the seam up at the bow... 10 minutes running  and the hull is coming apart something doesnt seem right here. So long story short sending back to horizon hopfully for a warranty exchange. Just wondering if annyone else has run into structural issues with their MG's. And if anyone has any feedback on horizons customer service with issues like these. oh and great forum here cant wait to tap into the vast knowledge you guys have. 

losifiend

I have had nothing but great experiences with HH. I'm sure they will replace it.

I have not seen any stress cracks or anything on mine. The hull actually feels twice as thick as my BJ26. I don't anticipate any issues with mine but yours definitely has to be defective.

yfzbrad

thanks for the feedback losifiend... I sure hope they take care of it for me. This is my first boat and the one run i got was amazing. But this could be a make it or break it moment for me and the hobby. They built this boat for speed so you would figure the hull should be strong enough to take the normal bumps that come with rough water and the occasional flip. Hopfully it was just that one.

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

Horizon should take care of you. They have great customer service. I understand your frustration, but don't let this moment get the best of you. Everyone that has been in the rc hobby have had a moment where we wanted to quit. Ihave wrecked boats, cars and planes but the I still come back for more. Earlier this year I had a wicked crash in my UL1 and fried my esc, rx and tore my hull all up. Was a out of pocket lost and I almost got out of the hobby, but Ia m glad I stayed in. Lucky for you horizon should cover your issue, I wasn't as lucky. Just a few months ago I split my sv27 hull as well. Stick with it and the fun times will out weigh the not so fun times. Ithink you got the lemon hull though because a lot of guys over at OSE are pushing these hulls into the 60s with no issue. The only known weak point on the boat in the hatch which is thin plastic and can crack. Other than that this is a solid and GREAT RTR boat. Stick with it buddy!

losifiend

I agree with Diesel. Don't let this be a defining moment for you. A company as big as HH will not leave you hanging as long as you provide proof of purchase, they will cover it, as long as it was not your fault. I too have split many hulls when first getting in to the hobby, but is was due to bad driving. Good thing is that I'm getting plenty of practice repairing busted boats[:-]

KENDOG689

Boats crash and that is part of it.A bad hull is a different story,I hope that gets resolved.Always light test your hulls!

asupervee72

did the rudder mod with some stuff i had around the house, Not sure if it is over far enough, i'm 7/8 of an inch to the right of the stock position. Hoping it gets rid of the bounce but doesn't sacrifice maneuverability. Also plan on testing an m445 and x645 today and if i get it balanced i'll try the 42-55 i have as well. Yfz brad has a GPS he said we can use so hopefully we can get some solid numbers back on prop testing and setup. My next gadget will be a watts- up meter because i would like to know what i',m pulling with those props as i feel like i'm getting on the larger side of things. I will be checking temps often for the first runs though. Does it look like the rudder mod is going to do anything? Any predictions? No pic, uploader is garbage

budman10

My Feedback: (2)

Hey guys im a newbe to this boat and got a coulpel of ques id like to run 6 cell lipos (becouse i have some laying around ) ther 5000 with a 40c rating i think the motor will handel it but i no the speed controler wont what one should i get i was thinking the swordfish 200 amp let me no what you guys think and what props .btw i whant a littel cushen so i can run a littel longer thanks garry.

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

The motor will handle 6s no prob, as far as the esc the swordfish 200's are very nice. I myself do not like running esc's to their max rating that's just me though. Many guys have done it before and works well. You will need to dis-able the bec on that though and run a external rx pack. I think the problem your gonna run into is getting the batts to fit in the hull. 6s packs are huge. Not sure how/where 1 6s pack would work and if it would throw the cg all off. And 2 6s packs in parallel would be a ton of weight in that hull. I'm sure you would have to pull the battery trays out. I myself liked running 5s on the stock motor/esc. Great speed, no money spent on a esc, I am pushing this 45 amp esc very very hard though because I have extra stock pb esc's laying around the shop. Right now I am running the PB Stiletto 1800kv motor on the stock 45 amp esc and pushing the crap out of it and it keeps coming back for more lol. If you really want to run 6s, 2 3s pack in series maybe the best option. I do dis-able the bec on my 45 amp esc and changed all the connectors over to ones that can handle the load. I use 5.5mm bullets on all connections.

losifiend

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asupervee72

funny that you guys decided to drop in a 1800 kv motor, i plan on doing the same, i have one from my super vee and have a turnigy one coming in the mail, after doing some gps test i want to go a touch faster. gps results on 4s with m445 - 36.5 x645- 36.3 42-55 32.7 5s m445 44.4 x645 40.0 42-55 37.4. The x645 gave the best hole shot but the m445 wasn't much slower out of the hole and really shined on 5s. I also think the m445 was the best balanced of the 3. My top flight balancer has fallen out of balance so i couldn't really do a good job, i have some replacement parts coming for it that should true it up. Until then i'm borrowing a balancer that should be pretty accurate. My thoughts on moving the rudder to the right. It did seem to get rid of the bounce but the gps was also in there so i'm not sure how much that was affecting the ride. Torque roll from the prop is more noticeable on wot launches but settles back down and goes straight. Left and right turning seemed to work just fine. All runs were with a neutral rudder trim and pretty neutral on the strut as well. I have little less then 1/8 of room for positive adjustment before my prop is in the rudder mount. Was hoping to gps test with the 1800 kv tomorrow but i have yet to put it in. Temps were below 100 on motor and esc and batteries didn't get much warmer then that. I did puff a turnigy 5000 mah pack today though and i'm not really sure why, i don' think i agree with the proboat 3.0v cut off

losifiend

Nice to see the 42x55 got the highest speed. Should easily beak in to the 40's with an 1800kv motor.

I puffed a Flightmax 5000 20c pack too. I think my next packs will be the 3000 mah 20C, 4S packs they stock here in the US warehouse. Going to run them in parallel for 6000mah total. Only a few grams heaver than a 5k mah LiPo. I'm not to worried about it ether way.

asupervee72

it was actually the slowest It needs to be balanced better

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

The 1800kv outrunner should be fine on the stock esc with the bec dis-abled, but the CC1512 might kill that esc pretty darn quick. I have that motor and will not risk it on anything less then a 120 amp esc. Sometimes when a esc goes it can take a motor with it and vise versa, hate to see you kill your cc1512. 

asupervee72

i know the turnigys are not the nicest and that is pretty much what i want to see, how drastic the quality difference is and if the AQ motor was worth the 80 bucks or whatever it was i paid for it. Pretty strange thing going right now i cant figure out. When i hook up the AQ 1800 kv to the PB esc it will arm but then if i give throttle it will just give a blip of throttle and then cut out with no response but sometime say every 5-6 pulls of the trigger and you can get the motor to be fully responsive through the entire rpm range as long as you don't go back to zero, if you go to zero and then try to go again you just get the blip of throttle. I put the PB motor back up to the esc and it worked fine, tried a 2300 kv turnigy i have and it works too any ideas on what would cause the motor to do this? I tried the timing on high and low, and the voltage cut off on high and low. I have ran this combination before in my super vee hull and it worked then, haven't run the motor since that day and now it is doing this. I don't know what is going on with it.

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

Is it the blue can aq motor or the gold can 1800kv aq motor? The gold can is much MUCH better, same parts and design as the ul1 motor just a different kv rating. Could be a lose connections? Did you check all the bullets connections on the motor, the stock 3.5mm can heat up and de-solder real easy? Be careful running a motor on the bench without a load.

losifiend

Lets see how long the stock ESC holds up! Marine T180 should be here in a few days[8D]

asupervee72

sweet a bunch of my post disappeared. Its the yellow can SV motor, I had problems with an esc this motor was hooked up to maybe the bad esc brought down my motor? One of the previous post made me think that

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

Alright a CC outrunner. I have that motor sitting in the shop. Actually I have 3 NIB CC motors in the shop with no home. I think that stock esc might hold up on that outrunner. Set the motor timing to high. Eager to see how it runs in a MG. I know a guy over at OSE running 1 in a BJ on the stock esc. Your setup looks good, only thing I would do is dump the deans. I use 5.5mm bullets , but some guys really like the EC5 connectors since they handle more and you can't short the battery out to itself like you can with just 5.5's.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9194

losifiend

Thanks Diesel. I'm ditching the Deans as soon as my HK order gets here with my 4mm connectors, which is what the EC5s are. If you notice, I already have the bullets soldered on right before the Dean's. I just didn't have enough to put on my batteries, or make a series connector at the moment. The 4mm connectors have been data logged good for over 80 amps(under100A), unlike Deans which are only good for 60A.

Yeah, I saw that guy over on OSE was running that motor in his BJ with the stock ESC. That's the boat I originally bought this motor for but since I'm still working on finishing that hull I decided to throw it in the MG and see what it would do. I have 2, T180A ESCs coming to me which is why I'm willing to make this ESC a test subject[:-]. I figure if the stock ESC gives way it wont be long till Mr. Postman rings my doorbell with my new ESCs

Gonna try and get the MG and the Widowmaker wet today. I'll take video and report back[8D]

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

O sweet. Didn't notice that. Good deal buddy, eager to see and HEAR this motor in a MG. Love the sound of those outrunners. That's how I am with those 45 amp esc, push the hell out of if it goes o well have spear pb45ampers on the shelf lol.  Good luck wth your WM, I seen the build you had going looking good!

Revashley

hey guys... started reading through this thread after I got a Miss Geico for Christmas from my pops... This is my first brushless electric r.c. and my first experience so far... Here is was I have, a stock Miss Geico and (2) 2S Venom 5000 MAH Packs... I must say that I am quite impressed with the stock speed of this boat. I was just curious, what other mods would you suggest for alittle more top end speed. I saw in this thread where people were running different Lipo combos, but to be honest, you have to explain it to me like I am a 5 year old...LOL... and lastly, what would be a good prop upgrade that would add alittle top end. Here are a few pics from yesterday's run...

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

Welcome to FE boating. A good upgrade prop over the stock would be something like a Octura x442 or a Grim 42x55. Another prop you may hear mentioned alot will be a Octura x642 and the Octura M445 will also be mentioned. All would be great, but I personnaly love the grim 42x55. I think the x642 is just a little to much pitch for this boat. (atleast that's how I feel after owning this boat). These props require sharping and balancing. If you do not know how to do this, you can buy pre sharpened and balanced props from http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/also start by reading here http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...splay.php?f=49My best advice to you would be to take the time and learn about adjusting the boat before jumping up into different battery combinations. Their is things to do before you can throw a little more voltage into the setup. The stock motor and esc are not meant to be run on higher then 4s, but they can. In order to do it right you have to change somethings around like soldering on bigger motor/esc connectors, loosing the deans and running something that can handle the setup and adjusting motor timing and dis-ableing the esc's bec. But you can gain a lot of speed by properly adjusting the strut depth and angle and playing with the boats center of gravity. Baby steps are the best way, take your time learn and HAVEFUN!

Revashley

Hey diesel, what would be the best 4s lipo combo to run in this boat? I pretty much am running 2s 5000MaH packs. What would be the best packs that would run with the stock gear without having to change any of the connectors? Obviously they have to combine for 4s, but I know there are different powers of 2s batteries and I am just ignorant. I am definitely going to order the grim racer prop. Anyway, the boat is really fast as it is, so I'm not looking to go too much faster, but I just want to make sure that I'm getting the most out of my lipos. I'm just curious what 2s packs everyone is running that will run the strongest... Thanks for all your info