RE: Unofficial
 

Been working some more on the build for the son of a friend. I had an extra Mystery 3000kv outrunner motor so decided to use that to power it. Soldered connectors on and made a cooling plate out of copper plate and tube. Installed both motor and cooling plate by first drilling out mounting holes on drive. I have found it easier to mount the motor by doing this. Soldered ends on a Hobby King 60a marine esc and velcro'd to inside of hull. Hooked some of the cooling lines to esc and then motor cooling plate. Moved onto servo. Using a traxxas waterproof servo I had from a previous build. Used a piece of cut angled aluminum for the mount and a zip tie to fasten to the servo mount. Mount was shoe goo'd to the bottom of the hull. Should be testing it soon before sending it off.

RE: Unofficial
 

so the Outrunner 4450kv motor will outperform the Leopard 4450kv Motor?
I suppose Outrunner motor do not need any water cooling jacket?

Thanks

RE: Unofficial
 

That particular outrunner is much more powerful than the 2040 size Leopard. And because it is not pushed that hard, does not build up as much heat. But if you are concerned about heat, you can do what Damfurst did (see previous post) and make a cooled mount (Good job, Danfurst!)

RE: Unofficial
 

i am working on a way of making my boat self right after being flipped. after 5 minutes of messing about I stuffed the bow of the boat solid with bubble wrap and a little at either side of the boat on the inside plus some on the top of the roll cage. then put a battery in to make sure it was weighted properly.

test 1 didn't go so well it would just sit upside down in the water. the problem was there was nowhere for the water to enter the boat or for the air to leave.

test 2 i added more bubble wrap to the side of the boat so that it sat off center in the water when it was upside down. this allowed the water to come in the antenna hole i use for drainage and drop that side down low enough in the water to let air and water into the hatch and flood enough that it drops and eventually rolls.
&lt;iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/LW5AojEeO1Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe&gt;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LW5AojEeO1Q

so now i know what to do i am going to see if i can refine it:

1.by using some kind of ballast tank rather than flood the hull

2.better floats on top rather than bubble wrap. i was thinking a couple of ping pong balls or something.

keeping all water out this boat is almost impossible so either make sure you are using waterproof components or make a sealed radio box . keep your batteries as low as possible on the bottom of the boat on the hull if possible it will drastically reduce the chances of flipping.

RE: Unofficial
 

nice one GeoFrancis :)<div>
</div><div>I was thinking of some old film canisters (if they exist anymore LOL)</div>

RE: Unofficial
 

Welcome GeoFrancis, I can see that you have given some thought into doing this project of self righting one of these boats. Here are a couple of things I have noticed about a boat that I own an MHZ Gecko. One is the shape much narrower than the jet boat. The other is the motor is actually what does the self righting in the Gecko. Once the boat is turned upside down full throttle is momentarily applied and the motor (brushless) will cause enough torque to roll the boat back over so the prop will engage the water. The jet boat with the jet drive could similarily work except the drive contains the stator which takes all the torque roll out of the motor. I think someone once mentioned using a floodchamber as well on this thread, but I don't think anything came of it. Good luck with your endeavor.

RE: Unofficial
 

Hi Guys I'm new here & got too tired after reading 30 pages - so humour me please.
Firstly I really have to compliment you on your technical proficiency. I'm really impressed. REALY IMPORESSED !
One of my early ski boats had a Vicalen (sic maybe ?) jet pump which we replaced with a Doen. The 16ft jet boat was fun but my later boat was a 21ft Mastercraft X Star which used half the fuel, ran at half the RPM, made 1/4 the noise, wore out 1/10th as many engines and went 20% faster. If you're not running a (full sized) boat in puddles then jets don't make much sense. Shallow Kiwi rivers though are the jet boat domain - till the pump sucks up gravel like my Vicalen did & destroys the impeller.
Now, to the point - I've got two HobbyKing motors ;
PRODUCT ID: S2445-3890
and
PRODUCT ID: NTM2836-3000
Which one do I run in one of these modified NQD 757 pumps (- is this the one to use ?) & on how many cells please ?

RE: Unofficial
 

i got the idea from i post i found somewhere. someone had an auto bailer in their jet boat and when it flipped the air went out and the water came in. because the bow was stuffed with bubble wrap it sank at the rear and once it was near vertcal it self righted. my plan was to expand on that idea by trying to get it to right while it had much less water in it. so i addes the floatation to the top and side to get it to roll much sooner.

RE: Unofficial
 

I'm sure most of you guys know, but I will mention it anyway.
Most RC Racers use a flood chamber for self righting the boat.

RE: Unofficial
 

I'd choose the 2836 and run it on 3S, but you might have a time locating a 4mm to 2.3mm coupler. And it might be good to water cool the mount like Damfurst has in previous posts. It is unusual that a 28mm outrunner would have a 4mm shaft! The 2445 would need a water jacket which might be difficult to locate, and the kv range is in-between. Try to stick with around 3000kv for 3S and 4500kv for 2S unless you use a larger motor - in which case the kv won't matter as much.

RE: Unofficial
 

yea i have seen something like that before but theres not much space for a flood chanber so i built it like a submarine and just made everything waterproof.<br type="_moz" />

RE: Unofficial
 

i have came across a problem with my boat :( the 2436 motor i have in the boat only has a 2mm shaft not a 2.3mm one so i was getting all sorts of wierd vibration.

has anyone found a good replacement for the stock coupling ?

failing that i do like the look of this motor

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/048-KV3800...item2c6816246b

2445 3800kv ! rated at 450w this will fly with that motor.

and just use a basic heatsink to cool it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133-2x-24m...item2c65204da5

because the motor is so big i doubt it will even get warm.<br type="_moz" />

RE: Unofficial
 

is the video your talking about? I'm pretty sure it usesa flood method of some sort.

www.youtube.com/watch

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RE: Unofficial
 

Here's a video of Tim's Tear Into test run. Came out pretty sweet I think. [link]http://youtu.be/JGRyqDzJCIM[/link]

RE: Unofficial
 

Nice work damfurst!

How long was the run time using the 11.1v 1300mah 40c?
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RE: Unofficial
 

Geofrancis,

I have a couple of these boats running these http://www.giantshark.co.uk/black-ma...-p-403839.html from Giant Shark in the UK - they work very well on 3S and a 20mm cooling jacket fits perfectly.

Cheers,
Mike.

RE: Unofficial
 

</p>

i havent seen that video before i just read about it on a forum somewhere but you can see how low in the water it gets before it eventualy rights its self. i wanted to get it to roll before there was as much water in it.


hmm i didnt think anywhere in the uk was doing motors as cheap as that. thats a nice motor .
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RE: Unofficial
 

Thanks SkR8Pn! I only ran the boat about 2- 2 1/2minutes, and the battery took around 370 mah to recharge it. I would guess depending on how hard you are running it would run 5-7 minutes on this battery. The motor was warm and the esc was stone cold after this short run.

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did anyone else use the stock radio box for their radio gear? i have my esc and reciever in it and it really makes it look neat. i just need to get a way to mount the battery. i have just been stuffing some bubblewrap between the deck and the top of the battery up till now.


http://i48.tinypic.com/11vr90g.jpg

i ended up ordering this motor to replace the 2435 3600kv with the misfitting shaft

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/black-ma...-p-403212.html

just need to get a jacket for it.

the yellow tape on the roll bar is so me and my friend can tell them apart he has some red tape on his.i know the hatch is so bad i know lol i was trying to use the bluntest knife ever. it would have been neater if i chewed through it. plus there is also a 2 inch crack down the bottom of the hull either from jumping rocks or when i dropped it down a flight of stairs.... nothing superglue didnt fix.

i want to install an autobailer after watching that video of the self righting jetboat with the autobailer Ihave to have one ! i dont want to be chasing the boat down the river. i love that it emptied its self after a few seconds running so i think that will be next.<br type="_moz" />

RE: Unofficial
 

Thats not bad, i may have to try one of those lipo's out in the rebuild.
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RE: Unofficial
 

Watching the autobailer in action on that vid is cool but does it seem slow to you? Or is that the normal time it takes the autobailer to do its thing..

I have no idea on how they work but i'm wondering if you could some how speed the process up...


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RE: Unofficial
 

i think it takes so long to drain just because the sheer amount of water needed to get it to roll. thats why i was looking at some floatation up top to get it to right with much less water in it.

RE: Unofficial
 

Ok so i'm considering painting my sprint.

I thought id better ask what paint to use as i'm not shy to melt plastics with wrong paint.

Any suggestions?<br type="_moz" />

RE: Unofficial
 

the tamiya PC paints will work fine on the boat. i am unsure of others that would work.

i have decided that i will paint mine, but haven't done so yet....

Jason.

RE: Unofficial
 

Thanks, i'm unsure of colours but really just wanted to still have a hull left after painting it....

Those cheap as rattle's at supercheap probably would also... i've seen it on lexan and it held shape but knowing my luck id melt stuff.

Thanks again
Ja
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